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By'
WES
Copyright, 1925. by the M'Ciure .
Rnchtngs Arc I'M-d in 1880
Fashion, Finally. for Trimming.
UCHINGS have come into
R vogue. But they are not
ruchings as we knew them
last narrow not or chiffon ruch-
lngs by yard that we wore at the
tops of our collars—~but ruchlnge
it: they were worn in the 18808——
i'usety llttlc ruc lugs used to deco-
rntc sleeves of {kirts or" bodices of
frocks. The, idea of course origi-
nated in Paris where quite recently
there has been ti keen interest in
the costumes of that period of
bustles and bonuets. We have not
taken up with the bustle-«in fact
the silhouette at present required
by fashion is as far removed from
the bustle as anything very well
could he. lint
nets and we are again wearing
ruchinus. i
The sketch shows several ways.
in which ruchlngs appear in new
clothes. At the top there is that
upper part of a frock of blond
lace trimmed at the neck with a
ruchlng of lace. The deeply
pointed hock line is finished at the
right side with a long gold tassel.
The street costume below shows
a black taffeta coat trimmed with
ruchlng oi' the material. It is worn
over a hols de. rose, georgette frock
which is trimmed with black tai-l
feta rut-hing. To complete the
picture the black straw but has a
cur-hing of black taffeta and the
collar is made of the taffeta ruch-l
ing. In ruchtnu of this sort the:
silk is cut on the bins and left.
with edges raw. The effect is
really charming.
At the side there is one of the
new full chiffon sleeves with ruch-
in: of thc material by way of trim—
ming. and below it a. scarf of crepe
de chine trimmed with very nar-
row platted ruching.
Many of the French dress-
makers have shown ruching oe
trimming of street and afternoon
frocks. Renee has a closely
moulded navy blue cloth frock
with a wide ruching of navy blue
surah on the skirt midway of the
knees and the hem line.
WISE AND
OTHERWISE
DRESS. GOWN. FROCK OR ROBE?
es." This is the term that has
becn usually adopted by the'
makers of this branch of apparel
and the name that is used by the
retailers. “Indies‘ and Misses
Dresses" is the direction the elevator
man is taught to give—not “Ladies‘
and Mlsses' Frocks.”
\‘v‘hllc this word "dress" is most
usual there are some people who ob-
ject to it used in this sense. Some
persons always speak of “fmcks,'
And others of “gowns." .
erhaps the chief objection to the
te§n dress is that correctly it should
be dpplit-d to all that is worn from
head to font. When you read “her
dress was rich," or "her dress was
inappropriate." you naturally take it
to mum her entire apparel. not
merely her gown or frock.
The word robe. which came into
fashion the middle of the last cen-
tury in this sense. is spoken of in
1362 :19. "a French momma-maker's
affectatlon.” (‘orrectly it is the ap-
panel of kings and judges. Certainly
this word hardly fits the sort of
dress that women wear nowadays. It
implies something rather stately and
flowing.
flown was revived as the term for
a woman’s dress a little after "robe."
It has the advantage of having been
used in much the same sens; at an
early period. However. like “robe"
it sometimes conveys a sense of dig-
nity and an cmbim of office.
Frock somehow seems to fill the
hill better today than either gown or
robe. Originally frock was applied
to the garment of a monk. and it is
lmcause of this that we use the term
“Imfrock.” to indicate a clergyman's
MOST persons call them “dress-
our hats are as;
close-lilting and as small as hon-t
l .
'Just parks it here."
Frock a] blond lane is tfimmd at
neck with racking of lace, with gold
tassel. Chifjon slccuc has ruchinps
of material. Scarf of crops dc chine .
is trimmed toiih pleated melting.
Black tafleta coat is trimmed with
melting of material, worn over bole
do rose aeorgetto truck which a
trimmed with black tar/eta batching.
The block straw hat has rocking ol
toficio, and the collar to mode of
tafjcta ruchina.
Coat of navy blue chiflon won
loss of rank.
over printed silk frock.
’ WHAT’S IN A NAME?
Facts about your name: its history;
its meaning. whence It was de-
rived; its significance: your lucky day and lucky jewel.
CORNELIA
the name of rnella. which;
through the centuries has beenl
symbolic. of all that is beautiful and[
reverent in motherhood. Not onlyl
has Cornelia a heritage worthy of an ‘
empress. coming. as she does. from.
the distinguished old Roman gens of.
Cornelius. but her memory is im-'
inoilalized by Latin legend. which}
makes her the mother of the Gracchi.
and the heroine of one of the most'
t-cuutiful tributes to motherhood. i
Penman: is 9 {mo beersl
Some etymologlsts endeavor to.
trace t‘ornella back to the two words:
"cornu belli." meaning "a war berm";
but the consensus of opinion is that'
she had no existence previous to the?
first woman so called. who was the:
daughter of I’ublius Cornelius Scipio.
.-\t'ricnnus l. and the mother of the
Hmcclp. She seems to have inher-.
itcd from her gallant warrior fntherl
a spirit of pure. lofty dignity. which;
made her the highest type of Romanl
motherhood.
\i'hen. according to the legend.I
the mutt-mm of the most ftisliinnublel
(”NW of liotmu society were gossip-
im: ovo-r the ancient equivalent for
ten. and exhibiting their gem collec-
tions for the odificstion and envy of
each other, Cornelia alone had no
glittering display.
a slave. she had her twelve beauti-
ful childmn brought to her, and.
laying her hands on the shoulders
of the Gmchi. said proudly: "These
are my jewels." .
The great historians of ancient
Rome have carefully recorded the
incident making Cornelia. superior to
all the noble Roman ladies of her
time.
Cornelia's popularity as a feminine
name throughout Europe is due. to
the martyred Pope Cornelius. whose
relics were brought to Compcigne by
t‘harles the Bold. 1n the low coun-
tries. Corndlla became Keetie and
sometimes Kce. Nelson is a Dhtch
rendition of Cornelius.
But though Cornelia's jewels may
have been her children. she had a
tallsmnnlc stone. the turquoise. It
is said to protect its wearer from
the dangers attendant upon trav-
lelers. and to bring them good for-
tune when they see the new moon
reflected on its surface. Saturday is
her lucky day and 1 her lucky num~
her. Holly. signifying foresight. is
her flower.
But. summoning ,
Mazie
* Her
Iy JAN!
VERY moraine—eon lundeye’
—at almost precisely five min-
utes before eight a shabby little
motor runabout drew up in ft-ont of
the Hindley place and stopped at
almost precisely the same spot. .
"He's got a brass nerve." re-
marked Mr. James Hindley, viewing
the arrival of this little vehicle from
the vantage point of his place at
the head of the table in the Hindley
breakfast room. "Parka that vile
car of his there every morning and
leaves it there until the six-five
comes in at night. 1'“ see the
authorities about it."
"But there isn't any law to pre-
vent parking there, is there?" asked
Dorie Hindley. "Probably the man
who owns the car is a commuter
living quite a way out in the coun-
try and he doesn't like to leave the
car right in front of the station for
fear it would be in the way. so he
“It isn't a man," informed Ted.
the nineteen-year-old son. hitherto
deeply engrossed in his omelet,
toast and coffee. "lt‘e l girl." .
"That doesn't really alter the sit-
uation." remarked Tom of twenty-
i'lve, who had overheard part of the
conversation as he entered the din-
ins-room and really thought that
his father needed a voice on his side
of the argument. "The car's a
mess. it certainly is no ornament.
The
enough to park her car further
down the road where we wouldn't
have to look at it every time we
glance out a front window."
"I'll have Benson 'speak to the
young woman." said the father of
the family. Benson was the en—
tirely dignified elderly chauffeur
who drove Mr. Ilindley‘s expensive
imported car.
Mr. thdlcy spoke to Benson that
morning about it as Benson drove
his employer to his office in the
brick works that had made him it
millionaire. And the next morning.
on seeing the shabby little car again
parked under his favorite maple
tree. he questioned Benson.
“Well. you see. sir." sstd Benson.
trying to hide some confusion and
embarrassment. "the young woman
that owns it is quite young and——
well. I didn't like to frighten her..
She seemed to think that she had
done something almost criminal
and that her license would be taken
away from her. so——well, I hadn't
the heart. sir, to insist on her put-
ting her car somewhere else. She
said the leaves of the tree were so
thick that it served to keep the rain
on in summer. and also served to
keep off the bright sun which would
blister the paint."
"If you're too softhearted to at-
tend to it." said ,Mr.
.smiling a little sheeplshly.
owner could be considerate‘
Parks '
Car
OOIORN
successful. but next night he re-
ported tbo remarkable coincidence
that he had discovered on talking
with Mule Kelsey that her very
best friend in art school VII Lluro
Drake. that pouch of a girl he had
met in the mountains the year be-
fore. And Mule had arranged to
have them meet in the city at lunch
some time. "Afar that it seemed a
bit awkward to ask her to move her
car. I thought perhaps you'd be
willing to speak to her about it."
This remark was addressed to Tom.
his elder brother. Bo Tom said he'd
do what he could. Next night he
made no report until he was re-
minded by his sister.
"Blame it all." he said. “The girl
is so sweet and pretty I just
couldn't. it didn't seem quite gel-
lant.” He didn't mention the fact
that the reason why he had declined
to play bridge after dinner with his
family that night was because he
was going to drive his speedy little
roadster out to the farmhouse that
Mazle called home.
So. somewhat vexed and really
very tired of the sight of the shabby
car in front of his house. Mr. James
Hindley said he would speak to the
young woman the next morning.
That night Doris. Ted and Tom
interrupted each other to ask him
what luck he had.
"Why. yes." said the older man.
"I eug-
gestcd to the young lady that she
would do better to leave the~car in .
our garage. where it could be looked
after. She seemed so grateful. and,
by the way, she seems rather lonely.
You might arrange to call on her.
Doris."
"Doris can go over with me to-
night." said Tom with enthusiasm.
and before the slimmer was over
the charming ante had become the
even more charming Mrs. Tom
illndley.
J
4
yous cusssrut; ROOM
ECENTLY the French Minister
R of Fine Arts said that every
householder ought to set about
arranging at least one modern.
cheery room in his house. "Dull-
ness." he said. “is the curse of the
bourgeois today. Too many
and gray tints, too much Louis-
I’hllippe and Empire in funsreel
mahogany. too many depressing
hangings in faded and unlovely
grenat tints."
Undoubtedly If the F‘rcnch Min-
iater of Finance visited the I'nited
States he would have reason enough
to deplore certain tendencies in our
methods of furnishing our houses.
But he would have far less ground
Hindleyll" scold us on account of dull.
patiently. a”! one. Of the men to do .dreary rooms. Probably he couldn't
it. xii—perhaps that wouldn't be
quite courteous. I'll ask Miss Doris."
So the task was given to Dorie
liindley. who lay in wait for the
owner of the pathetic little car the
next morning.
"That Miss Kelsey is the most
interesting girl." said Doris at din-.
her that night. "You really ought
to meet her"—thts to her brothers.
"She's studying art in the city and
living out in the country with an
old women because it's cheaper that
way. ller father was a court pttintt-r'
in Russia before the war and they
had to flee, and then he died and
she had to go to work at anything.
She sold papers for a while and
then she worked in an office until
she could save enough to begin
studying art. She bought that car
for twenty-five dollars and not it
into condition and painted it herself
and—she's the prettiest thinK—“
"Did you tell her about parking
further down the road?" asked Mr.
Hindley, growing impatient.
“I forgot all about it." said Doris
in surprise. "We had such a short
time before her train went and 1
was so interested."
"Yes," said Mr. Hindley. wesrily.
“Perhaps you'd be willing to say
something about it tomorrow." Ho
addressed his younger son. Tcd
scold us on that score at all. Most
of us have at least one cheerful
room. had very. very few Americans
when furnishing their houses go
about to get the effect of stately but
gloomy dignity which was once the
fashion here and still persists among
middle~clnss French people.
The popularization of tho solarium
or sun parlor has done a good deal
tonive us the cheerful tone in our
houses. licalth authorities have
dhmed into us Americans the im-
portance of sun and air so persist-
ently that we have done away with
those dark and stately rooms that
were once the fashion. Our win-
dows are more numerous and they
are curtainerl. not so as to exclude
all but a minimum of air and sun-
light. but so as to allow as much as
possible to enter.
BOOK MARKERS '
You should really have a book-
mark always at hand. so that
whenever you read you can find
one to use.
A good sort is simply made by
knotting a length of colored silk
cord with carved Chinese beads or
big colored heads at the ends. You
can get all sorts of interesting
effects with a little trying. And
agreed and was sure he would be
these markers are not expensive.
Lyrics of Life
. .,.
mmmwonn
You keep your word. whenever comes.
And then don't fret about the rest.
We sometimes lose our little sums.
Are disappointed, dispossessed.
Because some fellow failed to do
The thing he promised me or you:
But if your own" you recollect
You keep your word. and self-
respect.
You do your part, though other men
May fail to do the thing screed.
The thing that really matters then.
The greatest thing you ever need
To balance up the books of life.
To keep you square with child and
wife.
And friend and neighbor, and your.
heart.
Is. after all, to do your part.
You keep the faith. and do not
grieve
When others foil. and bring you
lose. ‘
There is a profit you receive
That counts for more than all the
dross-—
To know that men will any of you
You do the things you say you'll do.
()f you. at least. let this be heard:
“'hatevcr comes. you keep your
_ word.
—f
{M—
- ‘ \. ».
- WADE“!
When we to somewhere Wit-lint.
Before we've done a single thing.
Before We have a chance to Die!-
My little brother wont- to take
His stockings off beside the lake
Andgoin'odiurilbtaw.f
Before we‘ve had a mo of ball. .
Or tag, or anything at all.
Or any game we might have played.
He won't give Mother any rest.
That youngster. as you might have
guessed.
That youngster always wants to
wade.
He's quite a. problem. that'- a fact.
Before we have the lunch unpacked
He always starts right in to tone.
Can't be and I (I have to go
Along to sort of watch, you know).
Can't be and I go wading. please?
Yes. always on a. picnic day,
Or nearly always anyway.
He wants to wade, as children do.
He asks my mother please to let
l's go. (But if he should forget
To ask her. then I ask him to.)
NE e U FEATURES
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LAPIS LAZULI AND ONYX
ODAY is meant for brides. if the
T ancient beliefs governing its
jewels—the iapis lazuli and the
onyxmare to he observed.
The lnpis lazuli. which is the talis-
manic gem. is symbolic of faithful
love. and those who wear it need not
fear jealousy. and will be sure of the
constancy of their loved onee.
The .ouyx is the natal stone. and
is the emblem of a happy marriage.
The ancients believed that it assured
a. newly married couple of a pros-
perous and successful life together.
and gave them faith and sympathy.
Pale pink is today's color. and was
believed by the Orientals to make
the world look rose colored to those
who wore it. '
The camelia, which is said to en-
dow its wearers with beauty. is the
flower for today.
:1 I ‘3:
WHO wags THIS?
A Series of Popular Quotations from
Famous Authors, Selected
I—"Tho power of Thought—the
magic of the Mind."
l—"Strivlng to better. we oft mar
what's well."
8—“"rle tmpious in a good man to
N “a.”
d—"Then he
will talk! good gods.
l how he will talk."
SJ—"Tearo are the silent language of
grief."
6—"And be is oft the wisest man
Who is not wise at all."
7—"And wouldlt thou evil for his '
good repay?" \
l—"Sattre's my weapon. but I‘m too
discreet
To run amuck and tilt at all I
meet."
ANSWERS
1—Lord Byron S—Voltalr.
z-—Shokeopea.ro 6—Wordsworth
a—Edward Young 7—llomcr
i—Nstheniel Lee B—Alex. Pope
HOT OFF
A RADIO COLUMN
THE GRID
by THOMAS vavAY
a
HAVE been talking recently to
I a fan who is still an enthusiast
about crystal detectors. He still
uses one for all local stations, and is
working all his spare time trying to
get some way of combining ampli-
fication with the purity of tone and
the simplicity of the crystal.
Although he admits that up to
date he has to use tubes when he
wants to get any distance. he is still
hopeful. h:- says. that someone will
some day hit upon a crystal ampli-
fier that will revolutionize radio
once more.
It is barely possible that the oscil-
lating circuits investigated by a
young Russian engineer, Iii. Lossev,
and recently much discussed. will
prove to be this crystal amplifier.
but I doubt it. The principle of these
circuits seems to be essentially the
same as that of the familiar I’oulsen
arc. formerly much used in radio
work. The crystal. a battery and a
steel catwhi ker are connected in a
tuned circuitxAn oscillating current
is set up in the circuit.
Apparently this will work. for it
has been tried by a number of dis-
interested engineers. it is probable.
too. that the super~hcterodync prin-
ciple could be applied to such a ctr-
cult and used for reception of
telegraphy. possibly telephony also.
But there seems to be just as much
fussing with hattrriea and what-pot
about these oscillating crystal cir-
cuits as there is about the plusenb
day vacuum tube circuit.
It is reported that radio is scor-
ing a great success in the hands bf
missionaries and trade agents in the
wilds of northern Africa. In this
country the broadcasting from
France. and even occasionally from
England. comes in very well with a.
set of any real amplifying power.
The natives consider it an extremely
potent sort of magic to produce
music and speech out of an ob-
viously empty horn and a box with
some mysterious gadgets in it. Thus
they are properly respectful of what-
ever else this 'powerful magician
wants to say or do.
The effort to popularize the word
“radiocaeting” seems to be dying
out. Personally this seems to me a
good thing. "Radiocasting" means
nothing: “radiating" is the proper
word. if anyone wants to use a word
derived directly from radio.
But. as always happens. the pub-
lic used what words it wants re-
gardless of the recommendations of
the exports._ There is only one way:
to get a good name for anything:
That is to let the public chose the
name itself.
For the present at least. the pal.»
liC sccm.~ to have sclct-tetl ”l-l‘t'.: ‘.-
castinu.” Let us leave it :xt 1h .1.
THE RADIO I'RIMl-th
One Daily Fact For liistcncrs
Dry ("t-ll Vacuum Tubes are just
like other vacuum tubes for radio
use ever-pt that they are so designed
that they will work when the fila-
ment is at :t lower temperature than
is the case with the older types of
tube. the once that require axstor-
age battery.
The lower temperature of the
filament in a dry cell tube means
that the tube uses less electric cur- .
rent keeping the filament hot. This
is why it will work an a dry battery.
The storage-battery type of tube
draws so much current that a dry
battery would be exhausted in a
very short time.
The. essential difference between
the two types of tube. is in the
chemical composition of the filament
wire.
few special ones like the sodlon
tube) operate by the emission of a
stream of electrons from the file-
i
All vacuum tubes (except a.
meat. There must be about so
many of these electrons each second
or else the tube will not work well.
Now the number emitted depends
on the hotness of the filament. The
hotter it is. the more electrons.
That is why you get more volume
when you increase the filament
temperature.
In the filament wire used for the
dry cell tubes there is a little of
the rare chemical element called
thorium. This thorium has the
property of increasing the emission
of electrons from the wire. There—
fore. for the same number of elec-
trons 3. second you do not need so
high a temperature of the filament.
In some kinds of dry cell tubes
other chemical elements are used
instead of thorium. But in all cases
the purpose of these other elements
is the same. They increase the
emission of electrons so _tbat lower
temperatures may be used.
Mnmwm
Common Errors in English and How
to Avoid Them
By C. N. LURIE
“THE CLOCK IT \VENT T00
FAST"
CITE often we hear. among
U persons who are not careful in
their manner of speech. sen-
tences such as the following:
"The clock it went too fast."
"John and his father they went
fishing this morning."
"My mother she took me to school
today." i
“The kite it got away from me."
"The boy and the girl they tried
hard to beat each other in their
studies."
In each of these sentences the
pronoun “it." “they," “she," is not
needed. The sentence is improved
when it is omitted. This error does
not occur in writing, of course, save
perhaps in letters written by per-
sons who are very careless in their
use of the English language.
\
lllEftltltiiilitiliiltlltlSS THEilili
1i
The young lady emu the way says
Elm "I" mi? 'h‘kl'v'l'mfl '° “ma“;
a In a it's
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as. «wk... 1 .4 <
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I “rem—JAV' Z‘fififé'i . ~
3...”.
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an; we
.. wit-é. ‘
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