e.” «—.....- .. .
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’Americsns have taken up with the
‘
' "l'4.' “ r/
Leather Is Used so Trim l
Miliiners. Dressmakers :udngFuaryo
Pic!-
RESSMAKERS still rob the
shoemakers. and shoemakers
still rob the dressmakers. And
milliners help themselves to mate—
rials of all sorts. Dresses and coats
are made of blankets. Brandt hll
gust. shown an evening coat made of
:l. fino Oriental rug. Galen—why
not use the good English word gal~
loon 7—was once the exclusive prop-
vrty of the upholsterer but it plays
no important role witl milllners and
m'o-semakersn
.\ mole cape recently shown in
Paris had a. fringe of matching
lmthor, and the smartest way of
nmkim; up mole at-the present time
is with insertions of matching
leatht‘r. This calls for much labor
in construction of the coat, but adds
greatly to its value in the eyes of
tho fashionahl-.
A new way of making use of
leather is in collars and cuffs, some
of these in white and others in
bright colors or with metal finish.
They show scalloped edges with cut—
out design~simple of construction,
yot quite cflecllvch~and and set clev-
criy combines gold leather with an
wiring of cream lace.
Sets of collars and cuffs are a good.
investmem at this time of the year-J
and often give the best solution to‘
the problem of making last season's
frocks wearable for the present.
Doubtless the idea of detachable
flaring cuffs of leather was first sug—
gosted by the gauntlet glove. It was
a simple matter to attach the kid
cuff to the end of the sleeve instead
of the glove. and the matching collar
was Just a natural extension of the
same idea. _.
The woman who is inspired with
the tides of making her own leather
collars and cuffs may meet with a
little disappointment. It is not the
easiest thing in the world to get kid
and.,leather for dressmaking or mil—
linery purposes. .But if kid and
leather continue to play an impor-
tam. role in trimming then before
long the shops will display skins of
various mlors.
The Sleeve Begins to Pia a Crucial
Role in the Game of sshion.
‘ AN you remember the time
‘ when women used to make a
point of buying‘tuo or three
extra yards when they bought ma—
terial for a new frock. If the dress
was made, outside the house they
.iskecl the dressmnker to lay aside
two or three yards.
The object was one of eventual
economy. The dress might be worn
two seasons without appearing hope-
lonely out of fashion, if only there
was enough material to change the
sleeves. There was a time when the;
shape. of a sleeve proclaimed its
vintage. It was most humiliating
to the woman who wanted to be in
fashion to wear the wront sort of
sleeve. '
Sleeve.- haven't amounted to much
lately. For as long as they could.
French rlrcssmakers have simplified
the sleeve problem to the utmost by!
making frocks without them. And=
sloovelr‘ss fashion with more or less
approval. in any large dressmaking
ostnblishmcnt in days gone by there
were special alcove workers, sleeve
drapers, sleeve trimmers. There was
4M1 '“d '10:! 1:???75333‘7 7 '7'"- 3' 7'1")
lat the wrist.
Collar and out]: of gold kid with
cut-out design edged with cream
lace, and white kid ‘collar cud
mm: with cut-oat design.
I
were coming back into their old
prominence. At any rate in recent
showings of new clothes for autumn
and winter the sleeve seems to have
taken the center of the stage.
Lanvin's sleeve is really impor-
tant. Don't forget it. for you will
hear from it later. It is a sort of
melon shape, with all the curving at
the putsirle. widest at the elbow and ’
quite close fitting at the_inside. It
was doubtless inspired by sleeves of
the seventeenth century. Some of ..
the charming ladies that Velasques
painted were sleeves of this propor-
tion.
Generally the tendency seems to
be to hold in any fullness there may
be below the elbow with a fight cuff
Sometimes the sleeve
is close fitting to the elbow. then
the wrist. Much liked by the smart
French woman is the sleeve that is
long and close fitting. flaring at the
wrist to form a. background for the
hand.
, ’ JGWGI
T" Day 3 Color
Lucky - Flower
ll. special art in setting a sleeve.
It looks very much as if sleevesi
qu
- ‘ ,
.15. {0}), pufird cu: a? Mark and
white fur cut in. squares, from
(‘loih coat. apd black outwards?
with. point at back ornbroi ‘ My;
gold. Below. Lancing siesta t
clings to am on inside and curves p
out of elbow, and 8166:2010?”
long fringe from ms.
(go figure, branded c it!” with
, ans: at the writ”
””9, sleeve! » . [all M
By- MILDRED MARSHALL
‘g CARNELIAN
i H]! fashion set by Catherine do
' I Medici ofwearing twelve-tones
to represent all the aodiacal
signs cannot. unfortunately. be fol»
lowed by all of us today. but I
carnelian. which is today's talisman,
icon easily be chosen. It is not an
‘expensive gem. and it has splendid
powers which It will exercise it
worn on av chain around the neck.
according 'to ancient superstition,
It is the special gem of singers, who
will find it strengthens and sweetens
the voice. It is especially valuable
for those who suffer from stage
fright or embarrassment when they
appear before an audience.
Blue as the sky whose lovely
azure shines eventually through the
darkest clouds is the lapis lazuli,
'today‘s natal atone. It is believed
to be a cure for melancholy. New.
"ous discs.” and morbid obsessions
lwere treated by means of this gum
in early days and miraculous cures
died in oriental lore.
-It was a “Ore
:55 Babylonian and Efl'l’um "1‘
ipremacy.
Dark blue is a fortunate color for
wear on this date. It indicates good
health and mental poise. Sky blue
is not so lucky and disappointment
in love must. be expected if it is
today. -
w0'3; bio-om of the scarlet snge is
to give
od 's flower. 1! II believed
:oufige to the timid and to bestow
fluency upon those who suffer from
embarrassment and confusion.
_'...——-————--——“’—‘"
PICCALILLI
.
One peck of green tomatoes; (if
' aver
: gigs flight. but it is very nice with:
‘out any); four green peppers.
slice all.‘ahd but in layers, sprin-
kle on one cup of salt. and let
them remain over night; in the
morning press dry through a. sieve.
ut it in a porcelain kettle and
covernfleh vinegar; add one cup
of sugar. a tablespoon of
kind of spice; 9
buyout slowly
g
about an - hour.
- settlers of that town.“
expands only to be drawn in around _
‘ things will. -
of onions is desired”
at into a muslin _
Anc‘esio‘rs That Helped '
By JANE OOIORN.
m the Earls—Mr. Thomas
Eathis wife Jennieandtheir
“lighter Jane—had started
for their six weeks' holiday it had
been arranged that they’ would di-
Vide their time unselfishly. For two
weeks they would go wild-e father
Earl might enjoy himself is thew-.7
he liked best. two weeks should be
spenttoeuitthotashofi’ane.“
Jennie should have the disposing d
the last two weeks. Two weeks hd
already been spent along a remote
lain. a fishes-man's paradise. That
was for Kr. and. Jane had led“
parents to a seashore resort frequ-
ented by the young people she chose
to can “my set.”
“And now." said Hrs. ml. “now
we’ll go to Blah-ford. You know
the Earls were among the or”
”You don’t expect to and any
traces of tbspruow." said Mr. Bar].
“that was three annuities ago—none
ofmyfsmllyhavalivedinBlair-
turd that lever knew."
"Pilot's just it." retorted Mrs. N
'None of your immediate family
ever took any interest in their an—
tecedents. But for Jane's sake I
think we ought to get the My...”
"That’s dear of you. mother.“
beamed Jane. "Only if you'd Just
as soon I think I’ll let you and dad-
dy go along to Blairford'ard I’ll
stay right he”. George Brawn is
coming up next week. and—"
Hrs. Earl shook her head unprov-
fugly. "George Brown—a man no
body." she scolded. “He me: be a
nice boy but his father was Just a
post office clerk and he isn‘t doing
much better. Besides. I want you to
be there—we may meet some really
fine people. ‘ Descendants of the
first. settlers are all the time going
back."
So the Earls went to Blair-ford.
It had grown but. little since the
tithe nearly three hundred years
before when an ancestor of Thomas
Earl with a party of forty other
men, their wives and children. had
first called it home.
Hrs. Earl spent a day after their
arrival in "taking the lay of the
land." She didn't want to rush into
this matter of finding distinguished
ancestors hastily. She discovered
that there was a “bflcrical mu-
seum" at one end of the town where
a motley collection of old belong-
ings of the early inhabitants had
been carefully preserwd.
In the green or common there was
a tablet to the revolutionary sol-
diers from the town and Mrs. Earl
looked diligently than for a trace
of the name Earl. but in vain.
“Here are the Razins. and the Hul-
suda and the Browns." she said.
"You might think they owned this
town. Their names appear on every
list. I rather wish I knew some of
their descendants."
A few days later they went to
the museum and. after having
signed their names in an enormous
thatbclonsedtomgtbelarla'
from one of the first settlers.
show you the old charter. of the
town.” said the curatOr.” leading
the way to a faded parchment under
a glass can. “Help are the signa-
tures d the‘settlers who eeuldr
write.“ she said. “Pheoe war has.
merely made a wk and the clerk
of the company wrote in their
names.” Jennie looked quickly
through the list. The first settler.
Thomas Earl had made his mark
and after his mark
“Thomas Earl, Banabus Brown‘s
bond man."
Jennie made no manta. She
was about to look for her husband.
still in the attic. when it occur-ed to
her that her daughter was not to
be seen. The curator explained that
while she had been upstairs a young
man had come in and they had
gone out together to talk. '
“It was young MLGOOWI Brown.”
explained the curator. "He‘s a des-
cendant of Barnabus Brown. in the
line of General Brown of the Rs-
volution and Judge Brown. The old
Brown mansion is up on the green—
Barnabus Brown. you know, was a.
younger son of Lord Gerald Mur-
ray." < .
A few minutes later Mrs. Ear
found her daughter and George
Brown seated in George Brown's in-
expenslvc runabout in front of the
museum.
"You see when I found out that
Jane had come here I followed.”
Nd George. "This is an old hunt-
ing ground for me. My folks are
more or less connected with the
town. Besides. I just bad to m
Jane—"
Jane looked appealingly to her
mother. "I may as well tell you.
mother. "she said. "that George and
I are engaged."
"Why Jane. why George." said
Jennie Earl smiling. "I know you'll
be happy. I had no idea you were
descended from Barnabas Brown.
But let me run and tell Tom.”
Lyrics. of Life .
S‘MRT OVER
When thing go wrong, as some
things db.
When son‘hing’s wrong. the plan,
or you. 4
When off the track or of! the trail
Or on the course you meant to sail.
When like the lights along the
shore.
Rememb- you have one thingmorot
start over:
When in. the valley, when the peak
Was vet-t you really meant to seek,
Or when temptation leads you down
From mountain heights to ldlctown.
Whatm folly hinders you.
There’s always one thing you up do.
Start over!
When whipped in battle. than defeat
You meet you only seem to meet;
For he who loses unafraid
Is not defeated but delayed.
Wham down to dust your flag has
gone.
And when the victor passes on.
Start ever!
For instance, take this little verse:
The first was bad. the second worse.
I‘m very doubtful of the third.
The fourth has many a faulw word;
But even writing verses. too,
There's always one thing you can do:
start over!
When things go wrong. as some
Men somethings wrong. there's
one thing still: ,
When on the trail or of! the track,
When whipped in battle—reattack!
waver height you're headed for.
Remember you have one thing more:
Start over!
e
FRIENDS OF YOUTH
Perhaps you thought. "old friends of
ours,
That we would soon forget.
Would come away and leave our
flow’rl.
A little while regret.
Would come away and leave you
" sleeping,
our forward path forever keeping.
But. friends, we sit before the fire.
\Ve rest beneath the tree.
And‘ nothing quite so much desire .
As friends who used to be. »,
Whatever forums may betide u ,,
Life has grown easier. old friends:
Such wonders now there are
Night never comes. ‘day never ends.
\Ve speak and Journey far:
And yet we cannot seem to find if.‘
Our youth, and all that lies behind
it. '
a
Old friends, as each new dawn apv
pears .
The more our nm reoan
Those friends of curl of other years
“'ho were the first of all.
New friends are rich. new friends
are clever.
But friends of youth are friends
: forever.
WHAT YOU ARE
If you don‘t think a thing is true,
Then do not tell it.
If you don't think a thing will do. '
Then do not sell it.
Whoever fightsva foe with 11..
01- cheats the buyer when he buys.
However much he seems to win.
Haslestaiotcfthingswttbtn.
Amanmightwfnaleerucoflano,
And gold might win him.
But one man still would understand
The man within him.
A man might earn the m- w
plause.
Might seem to win. yet lose because
He had the world‘s respect along,
While be. poor fool. had. lost an
own.
The happiness of outward M
Is rather fleeting.
And poor the profit that up how.
With all our cheating.
A man might win in many ways,
But each must still bins-elf ap-
. praise;
Your wealth how great. your fun.
how far, 0
You're only what you know you are.
TH! NOV IAIN
Hessystonu. "Itain‘a’soysba
"The rain that rains all day
That makes no mad—Pin m.
glad ' .
'ronaveltaetumm. ‘
I like a rain that'- good and plain.
Don't leave a man in doubt.
That rains right on horn dawn to
dawn
'rm it's rained out.
‘Butdarnanhaw'rthatrninsu
hour
And thenlobenit’sm
Andtbmapatcbofna.. .
That git-you out.a mile about
From whereycur shew-rm
Andtbenstartslntopourag'm
msoaksyougood.
"I don't mind rain. I don‘t complain
When luck:- a little wrong,
If it'll run untfl‘ w- done,
pantsuits; were bore besidei
.4.
Beginstoclaar.andshowsyoubuol
I
‘ \
as...
1
i
.Dwig ,
WISE AND
OTHERWISE
By MARY MARSHALL
POSSIBLE PRIZES.
01‘ plate sets. consisting of live
H or six heavy hand-made meta
are sold for between two sad
three dollars. The mats are mid.
of interwoven skeins of coarse cot-
ton thread. and would be useful in
any house. either with bare table
and dailies, or with husher and
tablecloth.
A card table refreshment set, con-
sisting of cloth and four ernsll nap-
kins, hematitcbcd, and then worked
with the design of one of the face
cards in colors on each napkin. each
in a different suit. and of four fees
cards 4! the diner-ant suits on the
cloth.
Handkerchicm—alwaye maker-
chlets. There are so many fascinat-
lngonesinthesbops nowadays that
itisalwaysatempfntion tobuyns
manyasyoucanaffonbnyou
would rather make them your-tel!
thcsearslovelyonastocopy. One
int-eating stunt is to buy the ordi-
‘nsry cola-ed handkerchief linen
squares and hematitch six diflercnt
colon—rose. lavender. green. old
bl”. beige and yellow. for instance
and whip on narrow vslencieunes
less. This would, of course, ,make
a e price. It would take
tunabut thewornsnwbolilres do-
ing W would enjoy making
the dainty handkerchief-l one by
one. It would not cost anything
like its Rubbed value. even if the
real lace cost forty or fifty cents for
each handkerchief.
.—.~—
,.
he" an interesting‘ little boxes
'mtobebsdbythcclever
shopper. {Brass boxes that are imi-
tations'of old English bits. with an-
.cient designs beaten in their surc
taco. Wooden boxes from Persia.
with roses puntcdon their surface.
Papeq'r boxes from China and Japan
with printed. glazed finish. Boxes
from the Alps carved Wooden sur-
‘flaces. Boxes of all sorts. for blg'
.’ «Memthatmaybeuscdto
hold anything from .powdcr to
3y RA.
E business if life. involvinz
all that appertaina to our
success or failure, is mainly
carried on by the use of words.
_ We buy and sell in various
dialects. but we succeed after a
fashion in making ourselves un-
derstood and accomplishing our
purposes, even though at times
our verbs go awry, our vowels are
misplaced and our sentences
clumsily constructed.
In this age of hurry, we go
bluntly at our correspondence
which we are anxious to dispose
of in the shortest possible time.
and away our letters go ruggedly
clad in an odd mixture of strik-
ingly absurd colors.
In looking over our epistles of
the past, We frequently wonder at
the set form in which we have
been traveling for years. without
any attempt to improve our dic-
tion or enlarge our vocabulary.
“’e keep in stock a few hun-
dred shop—worn words, grab them
hurriedly and cover pages every
day with phrases as trite as the
alphabet. Only when Dan Cupid
wounds us with a sharp arrow,
:60 we realize how deficient we are
in the language we have more or
loss neglected all our lives. Only
Something to Think About
our Shop-Worn Words
WALKER
then does letter writing become
a serious proposition. for at this
juncture, in our experience, when
the heart 13 overflowing with new
emotions, we step warily. become
befuddled and throw up our hands
in dismay because we have lost
the art which our grandfathers
and grandmothers depicted so
beautifully with their stubby quill
pens.
How clearly they opened their
minds. how daintily they turned
their phrases and how every senv
tence struck home with a meaning
that everybody understood. There
is yet a savor about those unfor-
gotten letters of yesterday, which
is as sWeet and delicious as the
fragrance of a French flower .gur-
den. when the dew is on the sod
and the sun is saying "good morn-
ing!" to the waking hills.
It is not easy to write such lct’
ters in these days of typewriters,
when sentences seem to be ma-
chine made and whirled out by
thousands for thousands of
feverish people to scan. merely to
get at the monetary meaning.
The old art of letter writing.
which of itself was a charming
form of literature, is being rele-
gated to the back seats, and the
direct expresion of the heart is.
in these days of mechanism. de-
priving the world of sentimental
qudities conducive to its good.
A CORNER IN COOKERY
WH EN THERE‘S sOU P
HE custom used to be among
most Americans to pass crack—
are with soup. regardless of the
sort of soup it was. Crackers came
on with the poup and were taken of!
Not long ago it was quite
an innovation to serve bread with
with it.
the soup course.
There are still times when crack-
to be well chosen—with
oyster: clam or lobster soup. With
clear soup it is considered correct to
pass brad sticks or brand. and with
purse or any thick soup. croutons
are in order. With chowder-s. au-
thorities tell us to pass'large crou—
tons.
Some epicures like pamper-pickle
with carmin soups. They want it
cut quite thin and served in the
If you
wish you may serve any dark whole
in the form‘ of small sand-
form of small sandwiches.
bread
wiches with the soup course.
’ WHEN THERE'S FISH
HE cucumber seems to be the
I natuml affinity of fish. There
is hardly any sort of fish dish
with which cucumbers served with
French dressing are not appropriate.
White potatoes are also generally
With a
broiled fish. experts tell us to serve
while with a
creamed fish a plain boiled potato is
With boiled flab. small boiled
new potatoes or potato balls with
appropriate with fish.
creamed pentocs.
best.
parsley are the correct acootnpani
meat. Spinach and tomatoes are
go well
vegetables that likewise
with fish.
Dem buner is a good tunes for
To make it
cream take tsu: tablespoons of but-
ter “dial: with a tablespoon of
lemon juice. pepper. a tablespoon of
and salt if the
Irv-hop” be
my '00“. of fish.
cbsppcdpassley.
mus-rumba.
spread over broiled fish before it is
served. '
Shrimp sauce is sometimes served
with plain boiled halibut. it is
made by adding cooked, skinned
shrimps. broken in small pieces to
white sauce.
Often tartare sauce is serve-i will.
soft-shell crabs. fried oysters, fish
fillets. etc. .To make it you will need
a cup of good mayonnaise. Add to
it one tablespoon each of (incl;
chopped parsley. olives and cucum.
ber pickle and one teaspoon of fine-
ly chopped chives.
BUTTER FOR DINNER
It Is the custom of this country
to serve bread and butter or some
sort of "bread substitute" and butte:
three times a day. We have butter
and mumps or rolls or toast or pan
cakes for breakfast. For luncheon
we have bread or hot biscuits or
mumns or Johnnycake or some such
thing, and for dinner we have bread
or dinner rolls. New in France
bread and butter are most impor»
tent at breakfast. The Frenchman
cats more bread at breakfast hva
cause he seldom eats porridge—or
"breakfast food.” He may eat
bread and butter for luncheon.
though at fashionable French hotels
when bread is served at luncheon. it
takes the form of an hors d'ocuvre
or “appétizsr,” along with mdishes
or olives, and is removed before a
second course is brought on. But
- bread and butter do not appear at
dinner. Nor do English people
usually have broad and butter at
dinner. Of com-ob there are many
Americans. following the European
ctutmn. who dispense: with bread at
dinner. Really it‘s'not a bad idea
especially in the family when the
tendency Is to eat too much am
andwbere the". II III inclination to
«W
- o FEATURES 5
SCHOOL DAYS - -
in:
l
3‘
2.
”mm“. 4 "murmm‘
.W...——_. ~u~m~ mm WM 4"— .-
MM. .4
.._....m......... 0......“ ..__.......,.....-.... ....—............
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