WEEKLY - noawnnn UGAZ'ExTTE.‘
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In- '4.
ALMOST TOO EXUBERANT.
Judie Chollct Thinks hats and Bonnets Are
. Betlower‘ed Beyond Reason.
The floral decorations used on hats this
year are almost too exuberant in both
quantity and variety. 'l‘lirec or four differ-
ent kinds of llowc..s are clustered together
on one hat, and unless the grouping is
very skillfully done the. effect is not pleas-
ing. The little auriculas in various colors
are much used. and ,,' ‘- compact little
bunches are inter ~ ‘ with slender
sprays of other var-L. ' blossoms, giv-
ing a result which is u tisl'uciory to the
eye, however up to date it may be. Jetted
tips area prcttiertrimming, although they
are of short lived beauty, as the glittering
frost drops off very quickly and leaves the
feathers in a too evidently dismantled con
dition.
All I: adgear intended for women’s wear
seems to be of an eplmmeral character,
meant only for the quietest of sunny days.
The severe simplicity and ugliness of a
man’s hats permit him in appear at an
equal advantage in all weathers, but wom-
SZ‘EA‘R' Alli) LAC}: ilA'l‘.
en, unless they adopt masculine styles, find
it difficult to keep from looking more or
less bedraggled in times of bad weather.
To women who have no occasion to go out
of doors except on bright days this is of no
consequence, but to the many others who
do go out it is a great annoyance to expe-
rience the facts that velvet and ribbon arc
spotted by rain, lace wilts and ostrich
feathers look as if they were plucked from
a wet hen. There is a certain degree of
consolation in knowing that a man, in
spite of his superiority in convenience of
costume, undergoes an exactly similar vex-
ation when his new silk hat is exposed to
awgexpcctcd shower.
- A favorite trimming for lace hats is a
large garland of roses or perhaps more
buds and foliage. This includes several
sprays besides three or four long rubber
,tcms set with thorns and tiny buds or
leaflets. A transparent hat thus decorated
needs no other garniturc. One or two of
the sprays are allowed to stand erect, while
the rest are laid along ; .;.: brim and round
the crown, one being permitted to drop
upon the hair.
4, The. sketch given is of alarge hat of fan-
cy straw of the natural color. The brim is
covered with white lace, which drops over
the edge. In front is a cluster of four black
tips, held together by a tight bunch of
pink roses. A little to the right of the
back are three full blown pink roses.
. J UDIC CHOLLET.
WHY SHOULD PARIS DlCTATE?
J udic Chollet Urges Americans to Origiziate
' Their Own Fashions.
Parisian authorities tell us that moire
in both plain and fancy varieties was nev-
er so much used as at present, and that
black and white are still a favorite combi-
nation. By the bye, why must we in
America depend so absolutely on the die-
tum of people at the other side of the world
in regard to costume? Why do we not
_ have our own authorities on dress and in-
vent our own styles rather than appear in
European fashions which have begun to be
stale there before they have gained a hold
here? As it is, we. look to England for
our tailor made modes and get all the rest
from Paris, with a little unacknowledged
assistance from Vienna. Perhaps our slav-
ishness in this respect: accounts in a meas-
ure for the opinion entertained of us by
1
the average untravc.ed European, who fan-
LACE AND MOIRE BERTH’A.
cies that we never saw gas or any other
modern improvement, and that the major-
ity of the citizens of N cw York are red
men with scalps at their belts. It must
be a great disillusionment to these same
Europeans when they do travel to this
country to find that railroads and “tram
cars” are quite matters of course, and that
gold nuggets are not to be picked up in
the streets by every comer, despite the
vaunted wealth of the land. When they
observe American women so consumed
with eagerness to adopt foreign fashions,
however, they are no doubt consoled by
the conviction that imported modes are
the only alternative to the aboriginal buck-
skins and blankets.
There is not much prospect that the east-
ern states will have push enough to evolve
essentially American costumes, but the
west is virgin soil in which seeds of new
ideas readily germinate, and there perhaps
will be produced the unique flower of char-
acteristic dress which shall be cosmopol-
itan enough to embrace the beauties of the
costumes of all countries and national
enough to include the disadvantages of
none.
A sketch is given of a prettyneck gar-
niture of wide black moire ribbon and
Spangled blacklace. The ribbon forms the
heading of a. full bertha of the lace, and a
tight wrinkled collar of moire surround
the neck. The ribbon is brought down to
a. point in front where the bertha fastens
under a. large moire bow. '
J UDIC CHOLLET.
FOR THE WATER NYMPHS.
Bathing .Costumes That Are Things of
Beauty and Joys For a Season.
The time of year has arrived wlienjcvery
little piece of water big enough to get into
assumes an inviting glassinoss of surface
and warm llmpidity of depth that tempt
one to plunge in regardless of consc-
quenccs unless one be of the exceptional
class who do not enjoy open air bathing.
To those who are suiliciently warm blood-
.\ 13.3.171le COSTUME.
ed or suflieiently active swimmers to feel-
no physical discomfort from immersion in
cold water there. is no amusement quite so
exhilarating. All children delight in dab-
bling in water, and perhaps this is a sur-
vival of childish tastes. At any rate, it is
a very innocent pleasure and a very lo '01-
ing one. We all look alike in the water,
as far as distinctions of beauty and society
go, provided we are all real v'ater lovers
and do not merely pretend to bathe. The
wet hair of the mistress z‘.l'.i cf the maid
looks equally like seaweed, and the. nose of
the patrician and of the proletariat burns
regardless of class distinctions. Many per-
sons who cannot bathe in fresh water can go
into salt water with impunity because of
its vigorous and stimulating quality. A
pretty bathing suit keeps its beauty in
fresh water far longer than when it is
worn into the ocean, but that is the only
point in which the advantage does not rest
with salt water. One does not swim quite
so rapidly in the latter, but one keeps up
longer and with less fatigue on account of
its buoyant quality. An illustration is
given of a white flannel bathing costume.
The bodice, which is made with a yoke, is
gathered into a belt, to which are sewed
the short trousers. The scant skirt is gath-
ered into a belt having .bottonholcs corre-
sponding to buttons on the belt of the
bodice and trousers. The sleeves are short
and are held to the arm by elastic to pre-
vent chafing, which is surc to happen if a
swimmer’s sleeves are left loose. The wide
sailor collar is of navy blue flannc s are
the band around the skirt and the It.
J UDIC Cno ET.
THE BEST DRESSED \NOMEN.
Judie Chollct Says They Are the \Vomen
“110 “fear \Vhat Becomes Them.
In spite of the brilliant colors which are
undeniably the mode at present, gray is
also worn and appears in fashionably made
toilets. After all, the dictumgof extreme
fashion is only implicity obeyed by per-
sons so conscious of a lack of taste and
judgment in such matters as to be quite
at a loss unless following the lead of an
accepted authority. Fashion demands the
GRAY AND ORANGE GOWN.
use of magenta, and they accordingly wear
magenta, thereby securing to themselves
the repose of feeling that they are fashion-
ably if not becomingly clothed, and there
are many women who will consciously
choose extreme fashion rather than cx-.
trcme beconiiugncss in garments.
Fashion is far more strict as regards form
than in respect to color. Few colors ever
go completely out of her gamut except ma-
genta and an: very vivid blues and greens,
and these an: by no means universally be—
coming. The best dressed women are those
who know what 'v‘."'ill suits them and have»
the courage of their convictions in spite of
fashion laws and prop cts.
One may choose any color and yet be in
the mode this season, however, since every
tint is well represented. Purples, greens
and pinks are rather more decided in tone
than they have been for several years past
and are more generally employed, but there
are enough persons who prefer mode col~
ors to have the latter well represented in
all fabrics. Black is decidedly in vogue, as
would naturally be the case during a high
1y colored season, as it is required by way
of contrast and for toning down effects
that might otherwise seem gaudy.
Today’s sketch shows a costume of sil-
vcr gray accordion plaited foulard combin-
ed with striped silk. The striped skirt has
a very deep accordion plaited flou-nce of
gray foulard. The corsage is of the gray
accordion plalting, as are also the wide
opaulcts and the elbow sleeves. The
yoke of the bodice is of striped silk and
is bordered with black passemcnteris.
An orange satin girdle encircles the waibt
and gives color to the costume. The child’s
frock is of rose, white and yellow plaid
foulard. J UDIC CEOLLET.
The Overskirt Question.
The question of overskirts does not seem.
a. very absorbing one in the spring fash~
ions. Enough are shown in the new gowns
to give the style support and credence;
but, according to the New York Times,
they are rejected with remarkable unanim-
ity in favor of the still modish ,and ele-
gant plain skirt or with a bit of trimming
that really only accentuates its plainness.
The short, pointed overskirt in particular
meets with a cold reception. It has a dow-
dy and ungmccful cflect, and why it should
be insisted on has not been demonstrated:
‘W eeklgy' Fashion IEEi:I:3.‘_t:s.~
TRAVELING IN A CIRCLE.
Fashion Is a. Merry Go Round Thai: Turns
to the Same Old Tune.
Fashion seems never to make any real
progress. Like a bewildered traveler, she
goes in a circle. She passes through cer-
tain phases of sense and beauty, but she is
sure sooner or later to return on her own
tracks and revive foolish and, ugly styles
that her votarics fancied were done away
with long ago; Witness the Victorian
modes, unblushingly reproduced for us
after the really artistic dressing of three or
four years ago. We have not been com—
pelled to go the entire length andfivear
hoops, scoop bonncts and shoulder scams
long enough to reach the elbow, but we
have gone quite as far as is safe. Curiously
enough, the one feature of these styles
worthy of seeing the light again has been
ignored—that is, the very full sleeve gath«
cred into a ti ght band which was buttoned
SUMMER WALKING COSTUME.
around the wrist. These sleeves were
graceful and extremely becoming to the
hand, and when made of transparent ma-
terial to the arm also.
But, although the 1830 costume has come.
into fashion again, the corresponding eti-
quette finds no place in the modern code
of manners. Then if a woman appeared
on the street with a man he invariably
gave her his arm, acustom which has now
so fallen out of use that it seems ridicu-
lous; also a wife always entered a. ball-
room or other place of public assemblage
on her husband’s arm, but in these days a
woman who did not as a matter of course
leave her escort to bring up the roar on all
such occasions would be laughed at, and
so would be.
As for bicycling and tennis playing,
they go on quite as actively as if the Vic-
torian fashions had never reappeared, al«
though the traditions of these modes are
contrary to all such vigorous amusements.
An illustration is given of a costume of
beige drap d’ctc and white embroidered
voile. The skirt is trimmed with a flouncc
of the latter, which is set almost its width
above the hem and headed by a black satin
fold. The full round bodice is of black
satin, confined at the waist by a white
belt. The beige figaro jacket is in one
piece and is lined with white. It but-tons
on the left shoulder with a. large black
button and has a black standing collar.
The gigot sleeves are plain.
J 1?ch CHOLLET.
WOMAN’S DEFT HAND.
It Still Loves to Linger Over Fancy \Vork
as of Yore. -
However many women devote their lei-
sure hours to philanthropy, intellectual
improvement or physical culture, there
will always be a fair proportion who cling
to ancient traditions and spend their spare
time in doing some sort of fancy work.
The wisdom of bending over a needle for
hours when it is not necessity which urges
the labor may be questioned, but women
will do it and are always anxious to learn
some new way of exercising their deftness
of hand. No doubt if these same women
had been born men they would have been
cabinet makers, goldsmiths or followers
of some other trade in which there is equal
scope for manual dexterity. Being wom~
en, they make paper flowers and embroid-
er couch cushions.
A pretty idcalization of a country custom ‘
is the knitting of silk stockings. Not ev-
ery woman knows how to shape them, and
CROCHETED LACE.
learning all the intricacies of the process
is no easy task. It takes about a dozen
balls of silk for an ordinary pair of stock
ings, but when they are finished they are
infinitely better than any that can be
bought. A woman who has a brother or
a. husband whom she wishes to please very
much will certainly succeed in doing so if
she knits him a pair of black silk socks
for evening wear.
A variation on the late popular fancy of
following out an embroidery pattern on
cushion covers with waved braid, fasten-
ing it down with embroidery stitches, is
the idea of trimming summer gowns with
feather edge braid applied in the same
way. A gown of light blue duck had the
front breadth of the skirt covered with a
design outlined with white feather edge
braid, and the revers, vest and cufis were
similarly decbrated.
Embroidered baby jackets for the house
are often seen this year and are as dainty
a kind of work as anybody could wish to
do. An exceptionally pretty one was of
fine white cashmere and was embroidered
in tiny scallops around the edge with pale
blue silk. Each corner of the front had a
small embroidered garland- tied with a.
true lover’s knot, also in. pale blue. ‘
. Frenchwomen have taken up the knit-
ting and crocheting of thread lace for the
trimming of underwear. It is tedious
work, but that sort of lace wears along
time and washes beautifully. There are
many pretty patterns, one of which, a cro-
cheted variety, is illur‘rated.
.Tcmc CHOLLET.
, _
Ayer’s
PILLS
Received
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AT THE
world’sfair
AS
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Ecrsajfllng.
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JOi-l 5- 'i'. L‘z'l "'6 PT.
HAND LESSONS.
B8. GEORGE W. BRADLEV {daughtci’
l, of toe late Mr. WmJL Nash.) gives offi-
ciem and satisfactory instructions on tb
Piano at her home. No. 193 linin Streak. ftd
Auction.
The furniture in fifty rooms at the
Norwalk Hotel will be sold at Public
Auction commencing Tuesday, May
29th, at 10 o'clock forenoon. Sale
to continue until the entire lot is
disposed of.
If stormy on the 29th, the sale
will be commenced at the same hour
the next fair day.
For full particulars call on
JAMES MITCHELL,
Auctioneer.
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Charlestown, Mass.
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Mrs. A. B. DA'v'IS.’
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HARD WOOD Bedroom Suits, $14, 16 and $18.
SILK BROUATELLE Parlor Suits, $40.
RUG SATIN TRIMMED Parlor SuitsS 45.00. Also
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