. m,
\IL
tub
THE snarl
Stll'Tll Ntllill'Aldx,
FACTS F0]! Till-1 CURIOUS.
A rrot that sings “My Love is Like
a Re _, Red Rose,“ is a California curios-
ity.
_ Prairie grass is now turned into paper.
A mill at. Quincy, Mo, has used 400,000
tons of the grass for that purpose since
June.
A (‘hiuese banker, Han Qua, of Can-
ton, is said to be the wealthiest man in
the world. He pays taxes upon no es-
tate of $450,000,000, and is estimated to
be worth $1.40u,ooo,eoo.
It seems that the (.‘oney Island ele-
hant, thought the largest of his kind,
is not the first. The great Napoleon bad
erected a colossal elephant, some forty
feet high, in Paris, which was still
Itauding in 1332.
The custom of taking a solemn oath
upon a sword originated during the
Crusades. in a plain, uuenriched sword,
the separation between the hilt and the
blade was usually a straight, transverse
bar, which suggesting the idea of a
cross. added to the dcvutiou which every
true knight felt for his favorite weapon.
”and evid-sntly led to this practice.
A custom of the days gone by still ob~
tains in the District of t‘olurnbia courts.
According to an old .\laryland law, the
foreman of each jury is presented with
n pound of tobacco on rendering the ver-
dict in each case. As this is farin excess
of tlr‘ demand for the wet-d, the cash
equivalent of til is substituted. The to-
bacco fund amounts to a considerable
sum during a term of court. and is us-
ually devoted to the purchase of a cane ‘
for the foreman, bouquets for the judge, ‘|
dud minor comforts for the jurors.
Hallowmas is one of the names for
the {fast of .\ll»llallows, that is. All~
Saints. It was formerly acustoiu fortlte
poor people to go from parish to parish
' n noun-:5.“ w. tlua’ "tuned it‘ flu“ ig‘
begging for soul cakes, at the same tin-v ‘
singing a song which they called the
soule:s‘ song.
nectcd with the ceremony of praying for
departed souls, especially those of
friends, on the ensuing day. the feast of
All Souls. The season of llallowmns,
having been frequently mild from time
immemorial, has been called .\ll-llallown
Summer.
A Norwegian Farmhouse.
The first impression of an
It was, no doubt, con-:
Norwegian farm steading is not very ‘
favorable. .\ cluster of bonus. small
and aged, crowd around a larger dwell-
ing “0‘“‘3 “th generally 1""1“ 3““‘0' : Package of food, ready at hand wit needs
what dilapidated. llut this appear
now is deceptive: for the walls being of
wood. they look old in a few years, and
become blotclied and S‘lll’t‘tl by the
Weather. The roof is of the same ma
teriai, or, in the case of thc [trilh‘lpal
building, either of redtile or slab. Some-
tinns the dwelling house is painted
white, when the etlect is to relieve the
eom‘orc aspect of the group. The
are usually stout .rnd.fhoroughl_v weather
proof, planks about four inches thick
being used in t‘ieir construction. These
planks are placed cdgcwiso on one an
other. crossed and countersunk at the
anglcsfinud talked in the semis with
drymtoss. .\ skin nfthiu wood is placed
over the outside. while the interior
limal smoothly with boards. Inside
than; is an air of comfort and cleanliness.
A tyilc stands in the centre of the chief
room, and along the wall a bench’ runs,
Whit it serves for chairs, of which there
is usually a deticency. From pots on
the floor ivy is sometimes trained up~
ward to the roof, giving the room a
festive and refreshing look. Not uufrc~
qucnt’y the worthy farmer is proud to
have the dresses of his da-qlrtcrs hung.r
in conspicuous pmitzon in order that
swairs who ca‘l may see that the
datitsclsare well provided wrth gar
merits in case of a matrimonial affirricc.
THE TH'O DREAle
I met one in the land of sleep
Who seemed a friend long known and
true.
I woke. That friend I could not keep.
For hint I never knew. '
Yet one there was in life‘s young morn
Loved me. I thought. as I loved him.
Slow from that trance. I waited forlorn,
To find his love grow dim.
He by whose side in dreams I ranged.
Unknown by name. my f riond still seems,
While he I knew so well. has changed.
80 both were only dreams
--(‘. ‘. (‘r inch. in the Critic.
M
DRAGGED DOWN.
nv EDWIN .\'l‘\\'E|.l..
Regularly twice a week, about 11
o‘clock in the morning, falls a peculiar
tap on my study door. it is a short,
light, impatient tap, such as might be
given by an obstinate person. under prm
test. 1 hate to be interrupted at work,
and am liable to grumble at a knock.
but on these occasions I appear submis~
sire—almost thankful.
“That fellow‘s here
again,“ says
I‘hwbe, flicmaid, looking severely over .
my head. l‘h cbc thrashed me when a
boy, and long ago lost all regard for my
fcelings.
“Very well.
piease. Hi the.
“llu’mphf
Show him in, if you
say I in‘iluly.
The day‘ll come wen you‘ll
~\
tell me to show him ottt, and wen it does i
don‘t say 1 didn‘t. warn ye. Here, you!“
she then cries shrilly, through the open
door, to somebody in the had, who was
bound to have heard this encouraging:
dialogue, “come in here, and be quick
about it ‘.“ and my o‘d nurse marches
atitlly out and slams the door behind
her.
My visitor. of’whom l‘htr-be so strong- .
ly disapprovcs, is an :tuwholcsome look-
ing man of perhaps si\ty. llc slin‘xs
apologctically min the roorri and greets
nte \\'llll uneasy familiarity. Rough gray
hair St‘l‘apcs his greasy coat collar, and
his hard. blotcltcd face is twisted into
an lllSllllltllluh' to.» l‘assing him on the
street, the stot‘dic‘t optimist would have
given him room. There was about him
something so mean and abject, with
sortietltinq else so daunting and defiant.
that dull wrath and insurmountable dis
gust would rise at Contemplating hiru.
llut l nod to him kindly as he pulls a
parkage of pencils or a subscription
weight of the overwhelming disaster
might have given the man the courage
and strength of despair to struggle
from under it. Fate denied him the
chance of a mighty effort. Armed with
the wisdom of care; full, possibly, of
underlying rectitude and honest. regret,
conscious of daring, of strength, of ride,
of a self-respect born of the convrction.
of repentance, and in face of ruin and
the frowning future. what might not.
Thomas Slope have done and been and
escaped? There was none of all this.
Slope .ost ground too slowly. Slipping,
slipping slowly downward, he dug his
ringers into every fissure of pledge, of
obligation. of trick, that could delay de-
scent. Such is the instinct of the drh‘wn-
ing and the falling they say; of lost
wretches always; postponing the end——
the end that comes.
The big: house was given up in course
of time. 'l‘hcze was a heavy mortgage.
but few knew that. blope took an
equally big house at a monstrous rcnt. ;
Some of the costly upper furniture had
to be sold to pay the truckmen. The
parties and dinners still wr-nt on andj
the world to d how Slope sold his
house for a heavy profit and was
gettingrcady to build another Those who
had loauel Slope money. howevcr,dr.ink
the wine that was no longer paid for and
made wagers on how long it would last.
iNobody was paid any more; not the}
gtailors and milincrs, who still believed ,
-Siope‘s credit good; nor the servants"
who were getting abnormally inso'cnt‘,
nor the grocer and the butcher and ihe ‘
; wine merchantmor the man who mended -
; the chair, nor the poor devil who put in .
the coal. There was still a brave front. ‘
: llut there came a time when Mrs. Slope
, borrowed money from a neighbor on fur»
' niture which Slope afterward sold; and
~ the tradespeople clamorcd no longer in
whispers; and an e\e.:ufiou was put in
and humbng and disguise and imposition
were out of the question. Lying nitd
twisting and shamrnin; and scheming:
and wasting: and owing had not retrieved
' Slope‘s fortunes. It had placed them
and httu beyond salva’ion, rather. '
The oilii‘cs down town gave place to a
- poor desk in a cheap corner. .\lrs. Slope,
who had kept boarder. in early life, and
was an hottest soul in the main, went
back to her old calling with a stout
heart and bellict in her Tom's genius and
resotttt‘cs unimpaired. It was only a
temporary arrangement she told her few
friends; and she believed so, poor soul!
I That ’l‘oin slion'd get on his feet again
she believel as firmly as that she should
book or a patent co'kscrcw' out of his idly" ll“) 2““? “fit Ann)“ 110?“); :v:s
pocket. lam nodding to a memoryuhc “ ”l l" “i M m any P“ 0 (r ‘
~ . memory of a man I knew years ago, and
ordinary -
I shake hands; for l have set thyself to
try to kindle the ashes of self-respect iti
this reality I am familiar with to-day.
I buy his trifle and prcss on htrri a
little enough pressing, heaven knows?
and talk to him hopefully of better
times ahead. Then I watch him shzttiic
away to devour the bread and “it‘ll and
drink up the money it the nearest saloon.
Reason snails “t‘oul' ‘ but conscience re
minds rue that it knows no outlawed
obligations. I am paying the interest on
, an old debt
walls ;
~ ; who drove out to Dr..l“labner‘sacademv
is '
0n an old debt. For once the mem-
cry of this man gave me a fivc~dollar
gold piece, at a into when gold pieces
looked very large tonspcudthrrftschool-
boy. .\l_v patron of lli-Ni‘ days was a
gorgeous :cutlenten, all blue broadcloth .
and patent leather boots and gold chains.
foryoung gentlemen, at tnwood, in a
' splendid green chariot drawn by dancing
horses, glittering,r w'tli silver buckles
and rosettesmnd we youngsters used to
count the days between his ft)?lfll1:l\ll\‘
visits. He was always good for augcn'r
erous tip a l around. and. to me par-
ticularly, as his son‘s thurn, he camc
down most handsomely. You mav be
sure their was no more popular mien in
the country with us than Slopc‘s father,
and the cheer we used To givc him as he-
drovc off In :gniriccntly, with Slope
,awciliug pi‘u‘lilly llt‘Sith him. could be
The «‘u I\'llnll\(‘~l aiegcncially an ituprovc- '
meat on tli we usually sccn :ri England
and Scotland. The building: largi‘t‘
and more space is allotted‘ to cach ant
mal. w lrilc a clcrn wooden floor is or
din.“ iv bcncailt the citt‘e. Little or
no he filing is given. 'l'ae level of the
cowlr utw is in most cases raised high
enough to a‘low of a space beneath. into
\Vllll ll lhc i‘clusc is regularly swept
through an opening in ilt: floor. ("ram~
bers' J"U". fl'.
.3
A Public Laundry in Mexico.
The public laundry of .lalapa is a bit
of .praintuoss to which no pi-n Can do
juslir 9. It is :1 huge par Lion of plastered
adobe, resting on immense stout: pillars,
and erected c\actly in the center of the
city, as i: washing were the chief busi—
ness of life, as, indeed, it is among the
lower classes, who make up the majority
in this country. Great srpiarts of l‘om~
peiian red adobe. serving for tubs, are
ranged along both sides of the running
stream, which is fed from an exhaust less
fountain above. An aqueduct, running
through the principal streets, curries off
thr refuse water, which hf become a
frothy river from free use of amole—tlte
mountain root that answers the purpose
of soap in .\lextco. Here upon every
day of the week the lavanderas congre-
te —young and old, shriveled grand
flutes and coquettish Juanitas—all gos-
siping and giggling together, as they
bend over the pools and pound the linen
into shreds with jagged roots of amote.
This ancient fountain boasts a tradition.
Whoever goes to quail a parting draught
throws tea drops over his shoulder and
at the same moment makes a wish,
whereupon not only the desire of his
heart Will be granted, but such are the
magical virtues of the fountain that he
will surely return again to crumbling,
rose-covered Jalapa.—.\'cw' York Sm.
Music Among the Japs.
It strikes the Western mind as very
etrnnge that a people possessing so much
artistic talent should be so utterly desti-
tute of what we term musical science.
They have, it is true, a system of music,
but it is 'so much at variance with our
ideas about it that one is justified in
denying it a place in the musical art of
the world. The national instrument
(one might almost any of torture, for
such it really is .to the civilized ear) is
the samisen. a banjo or guitar of three
strings with an exaggerated neck. .The
musicians are generally womcu.—— Cdlcajo
Must;
Be Walt. the Earth.
A little, with content. in much
To him who'll not refuse it,
Who take-it, nth. lordhusent,
heard a mile. .\lr. Slope had an lltlllns-
ittg otiice downtown and w is spoken of
generally as a broker; but his business
was of a diversified lltli'll‘t‘. lie was a
red r slate agent and the manager of
se\cr.il large prom-thin, and preside-tit of
the l‘owas \lruiugcouipany. tvcas l‘t‘l‘ o!‘
the to our: dire ll: iiding association.
correspond n: of a no'cd wine house at
Berth-airy and director in a vast number
of promising enterprises. He also d4 all
largely in coiiiiiicicial paper 'and specu-
lated on the stock exchange. As a con
sequence of thew manifold industries, I
shouldn't wonder if .\lr. Slope enjoyed
for some years a large animal incumc.
Living in fine style. enu-rtaining lavishly
and being of admiring. free handed dis
position. he was naturally much respect- 1:
ed. His wife and daughter moved in a
select eirclc. were noted for their costly
; dresses ~ . thouenhliss Ada was but fifteen
~—and gave freely to the cause of religion.
Tommy Slope was the worthy son of
such a father. With trinkets galore and
”anything: more for which 'lom had a
fancy. he was liberally supplied. "is
treats w'cre something to look forward :
to, and when subscription papers were
i handed around Tommy was altvavs down
for the largest sum. A wonderful dandy
was Tom. too, having,r all his clothes;
made by his father‘s tailor, and quite:
setting the fashion to the rest of us boys.
He had a private parlor all to himself.
and was never kept in at. recess, by his
father‘s express request.
advantages, however. Tom was incorrig-
ibly idle and stupid at his books. Ciga-
rette! were a novelty then, but Tom
puffed them unremittently. Claret punch
wasin the nature of a wild and awful
dissipation to must of us, but Torn
mixed bis bowl and took off his glass
with the air of a connoisseur. His love
for sweets was inordinate. and I am
afraid he was a glutton. When Tommy
had been three years at Flabbcr‘s his
father presented him with a bewdching .
Shetland pony. The boy soon discov-
ered it was poor ftin to ride alone, and
the next week what should arrive but a
duplicate nag for myself. Our delight-
ful adventures, however, were soon cut
short, for my mother shook her head at.
such extravagance, and my father
sternlv commanded me to return the
beast. He further intimated that the
less I had for do with Master Slope the
better he should be pleased. This was
the first intimation I had that things
lwith Slope were not what they ought to
Tommy‘s governor was as splendid
and jovial and popular on ever. But
though gas blazed and corks popped still
in the big house uptown, it was getting
to be a - matter for dexterity an
di lunacy to see Slope at his
There were rumors» afloat
hard ltraits and ugly re-
ports about malfeasance of trust And
when the heir- of theCoventonutate
a filed to the can: to an mm:
o a property w ‘ch Slope was -
ling, there promiied to be aver! pretty
scandal. It unsettled somehowfihou‘h.
and moment on and held up is
head. y still trusted him. Fortune
it, $30M"! and“ dwwgrl
hap- thia was the more unfortunate.
Perhapshad min eons at me the
.now, into his soddcn. mpy brain.
With all these I
where he failed deplorably and was held
only out of pity for his father. .\liss
.\da made over her old dresses, gave
llcrsclf airs to her mother‘s boarders and
clung desperately to the skirts of her
fadi.oitabic friends. Slope worked hard
to recover himself at first: but
his spirit was, broken. (‘ommcrcinl dis-
trust he could stand. He had come to
laugh over his sharp practices as rather
linc business tactics. l'nder tl.e rc—
‘ pro rches or contempt of a “pigc-in“ he
ltlchlt‘ and
I‘m: he loved the easy respect a
had “done“ he Could now c
grin.
,spendtitritt buys and the cheap popu—
' larity of the» bar-'oom
Stripped of the
power to be lavish, to back up loud talk
with the stimulants to louder. to bc
called a good fellow, to brag and strut
and so .ggr-r, slope was a peacock with
out its tail. There was Lille of real
h"al‘2illcs~l or generosity in the man. lie
shone only with the reflection of rnonm
‘ l‘oor, though stiil volublc, he was fawn—
ing. No longer treating. he aponged.
and the poor, shabby, bowing. scraping
creature would put tip with slights and
slicers and bluffs: jests that once would
have drawn a hot blow. to get his drain
and a chance to show his dun. the bar
keeper. that he cou‘d stid keep good
comganv. 3. He talked Jauutily of his
prospects and liked to expand on his
past opulence :it this period.
.\lcrnwhile he kept away from the
boarding.' house. from “is. Slope, as
much as he could. He was still ashamed
to :akc her money and meet her custo»
incrs; and he sure .kcd out early to avoid
them and ate alone. Unr- day. however.
he confessed to his daughter that ho
ft‘;ill'|lfiil lilllt~t‘lf as an injmcd man. His
wife. though hcr purse seemed. in be
bid, did not: give him money enough
ilrcaf heaven! “as his own wife gong
to oblige him to ask her for money " 'l‘he
ni-vt day his allowance was silent y
d «iblcd, but on his wife‘s face was a look
0 anxrcty and rcprOof he had never sccn
b fore lie was to see .t again manv,
many times before that last time, the
it vrror of' which comes, at tinics, even
The
shame of the act soon wore away. He
began to take an interest in his wife‘s
receipts and the management of the
house. He gave up going down—town.
and pretended to believe he was needed
in the house. He no longer shunned
' the boarders. (in the contrary, he went
to nnrkct and collected the bills. (ln'
lh!‘ fir~t of the month his wife discovered
the money be had taken was gone. and
that her market bills were unpaid.
That was the beginning of the end.
When his wife scolded—she was not as
amiable as she used to be, poor woman
—-he went out and came back crazy with
drink. It happened again and again.
The house was given up. “Of course,“
his wife subbed, “you couldn‘t expect
peeple to pay for living under the roof
'. of such a seltish, wanton. drunken
brute.“ This was when they went into
1those wretched lodgings where Mrs.
: Slope died, and it was on this occasion
that Slope struck her for the first time.
l Ada had left them a month ago, to go
iin ashop, she srrid. The girl’s cheeks
flushed and her eyes flashed when she
?said she would never again speak to her
_ father; and she stopped to utter a hard,
;drv, horriblle curse upon him over the
3 threshold that she never crossed again.
: The day before she died her mother met
'Ada. with acompanion. on the street.
gThe next morning they found Caroline
: Slope‘s burly cold beside her straw .
_ mattress. The coroner guessed she
i died of ex iosurc. The re
3 porter who descri the position of the
; ody when it was found had a curious
ltheory. lie said it seemed as if the
9 woman hadl been kneeling when she lost
consciousness and that the body. with- ‘
out sup rfl above the waistg had sunk
Iuntil t e head rested on the floor.
. Another gentleman of the press insisted ,
; that the woman died while crouching as ,
5 if from a blow. The woman‘s husband, :
‘ it appearedl, was found drunk in a neigh- ;
r
iboring gin-shop. He was arrested. but‘
9 discharged. there being no marks of vio- =
lenee on the body. l
Manhood had gone. home and familyl
had ne, name and friends and money;
and e nuns of living almoethad ne, l
and yet thiaman lived. And he bred
and seems content, as an animal would, i
with lenty of food and drink. New:
and on he will whimper or curse over i
the memory of his misfortunes—which
he speaks: cf as d Inntfpr'
doubtthati absolute animals have that?
y. Redoubtthewevldmwell
.ofbin. .Butif ldarenot takethe?
blity of having hi- drowned,
l
' sumed as the ensign of Scotland.
Beside, he has
dare I let him starve?
his ethical uses still.
But I never say all this to thbe; no,
not even when I am called upon to pay
for the meat she gives out, and never
grudges, to vagrant cats. —.»\'ew York
Hail and Erpras.
flow Cheshire Cheese is Made.
l
l
r
The processes of cheese manufacture :
are few and simple, though there are?
many persons who would never excel in E
if. Milk, in a general manner- of speak~
ing, may besaid to consist of casein tor
cords) and whey. Casein is the solid
white part of milk, and, though it con—
tains other substances, it is quite accur-
ate enough to call these curds casein.
The whey is such active principle as
is left of the .milk, and is the sweet-
drink that. most children remember af-
fectionately through life after they first
taste it at a farmhouse. The great de-
sideratum in the manufacture of cheese I
is to separate these two substances
thoroughly, for if whey is left in the
cheeseit causes it to bulge out at the
sides. and leaves a decomposed flavor
which we may recognize in dairies of ,
inferior value.
As soon as the evening‘s milking is
completed and stored in a vat,
cooled down as quickly as possible, and
in some of the more complete dairy
‘ strike the devout.
it is’
farms there isa zinc cistern with a false -
bottom, which is filled with cold water _
to reduce the temperature. In many
farms about litlf the cream 13‘ taken
away for churning. and the worn
iug‘s milk is added directly after.
The cold water is run of! the
false boitomof the vat, and hot waiter
substituted, until the ternperatu is
raised to about ninety degrees, and then
rennet and anatto are added. lcunel,
_ not mean:
it may be said for those to whom the ‘
terms in cheese making are strange, is '.
the tiiild acids that. separatcs the curds
from the whey. Other acids would do
the same, but this is incomparahly the ‘
best.
Aftrr it has acted properly, the cords 1
are formed in solid blocks, and thewhey ,
is run off. This is all done Within an
hour, and then the curds are carefully 3
cut tip to let the whey still further drain _
off. Here again delicacy is needed, so
as not. to let the rich part of the curds '
mix with the whey, and impoverish the
cheese. lndeed, if the whey is properly
run off, it should be as clear as lthenish ‘
wine. and very like it in appearance,
though this would involve a verv high
standard of evcellence indeed in the skill
of dairyniaids.
The curds are now salted, and the
t‘llccsc formed into its shape and pressed,
and in s‘cvt‘n days it is removed to the
stun-room. :\ ftcr being there for from
seven weeks to three months, accordng
to the quality. and more particularly ac;
Cordiug to the taste of the CObs‘llllR‘lfidl
is ready for market.
These, of course, are only shirt out~
lines of the methods used in making
t‘hcshirc cheese, and even they ditler to
some extent on different soils and in dif~
f‘erent dairies.—-—h'ug$ts.‘r I J-rsfrrrrnr' .\lrrg- ‘
(IIIJIF.
Studying llyilroplmhla.
A French writer in an article
ing the methods of .\l. Pasteur, the
French scientist who has discovered a
cure for hydrodhobia, says: liting dogs
and bittendogs till the laboratory. \\'rtli~
out reckoning the hundreds of mad dogs
that have died in the laboratory during:
the last three years there never occurs a
case of hydrophobia in Paris of which
l‘astour is not :nforlned. Not long ago
a veterinary surgeon telegraphed him:
“.\ttack at its bright in portille dog and
bubdog. t‘ome.“ l'itstcttt‘ invited me
to accompany him. and we started,
carrying six rabbits with us in a basket.
desvrib-
'l'hc twodogs were rabid to the last dc~ ’
grist“.
mous creature, howls-d and foamed in its
cage. A bar of iron was held out to
him; he threw himself upon it, and
The bn‘ldog c~pccially, an enor~ '
there was a great difliculty in drawing :
it away fram his bloody fangs. Ullt‘ of
the rabbits was then brought near to the.
cage, and its droopui; car was allowed
to pass thrcugh the bars. hit not with-
standing this provo. .ition thc Clog flung ,
lllm‘r‘ll' down at the bottom of lils cage
and rcfu~cd to bite.
threw a cord with .i slip loop over the
do}; as a lasso is ilzrown. The animal
was caught and drawn to the edge of
lllt‘l‘flfjt‘. 'l‘hcrctlicy managed to get
hold of him and sum"! his jaws. and the
dog, suffocating w th fury, his eyes
Two youths then ,
bloodshot. and his body conv ilnod with ‘
a violent spasm.
table and held Iliutiouless, while l'astcur,
was extended upon a i
leaning over his foaming head at the.
distance of a Ringer‘s breadth. sucked up
into a mu row tube some drops of saliva.
in the basement of the veterinary
surgeon‘s house. witnessing this fermid- ,
able tclc~tltcfe, I thought.
grander than! had ever thought him
before.
.———-—_———————
The Thistle.
The Scottish thistle-~~said to be one of
Pasteur .
l Slllllldfiflllflill
Jennie June Expresses Her Opinion '
About Hodern “Fashion"and
Gives Some Ideas of Art
as Applied to Dress. '
The Cashmere, Greek. Ancient Greek
and Graduate Costumes as Ap-
plied to the Art of Dress-
ing To Day.
[Special .\'ew 'orl'e [Allen]
The faults in dress and the absentee of that
freedom and diversity necessary to the de‘
velopment and cultivation of taste seem to
urine principally from the acceptance by
women of incompetent authorities and the
failure to apply to dress the sense and intelli~
genee usually brought to bear on other sutr
' jectn. It has become a sort or axiom that de-
viation from “fnshion‘L—whntever that may
happen at the moment to bet-must be ugly
and unbecoming. and beautiful dress, like
healthful food. wholesome perhaps, but not
in the least urn-cable. It. does not. seem to
tvorshiper of “novelties“
and “In test ideas" thit increased change can-
not always be in the right direction. or that
the “style, ‘ which memlv rupresenb the trick
of the moment, can have no necessary or
true relation to personal elegance and good
taste. Both the tllBl‘lli and defects of our
mode of .lr. song are more conspicucus in this
country than in others. because the follow“
on of fashion are more numerous. more
money is spent upon dress. and the distribu- ;
tlou of prevailing idea! more general. It is
or rostrum-as that are lack—
ing. simply knowledgn of principles,
and this is an acquisition which takes time
and implies an education in art. lgnol‘lrico
of truth in regard to dross is as blissful as in .
While a Woman is '
respect to other thing:
deckred to be “ xqutstely“ dressed who
"mahotorvgon ’ s assortment of colors
and “ ttnrelntcl "
satisfied with herself and her methods FJI‘IIl!
heretofore had nothing' to do with fashion
The increase and
enin; of skirts, sleeves and bodices—tha
drawing in or inflation. have a'l been core
ducted on purely ni-bitrnry principles with
out. any i‘efereucoto truth in art or nature
The imbecilitv of it all. looked at from an
obstruct mint of view. is more than funny. '
it ie pitta tle. “'hy a woman sensible on a.l
other pants should ask anxiously if she must
wear- a "hustle," or do any other one of the .
«Io-en things that fashion ordainx today that.
it did not. ordain yostartlay. would be inumlh
b e if it were not common. The fa‘ss stand-
u'vl let up leads every one astray. if n gown
is in the reigning mode it Is “ stylish." if it is
of costly material it h " beautiful “ ul‘ “ eta.
t," and tin wearer is “ magnificently “
must, not common. but there is hope for
he futum American women are beginning
to atudv form. and when they have our dis-
co the am ‘net of true beauty? and grit -e
they will be quick to appiv it. let‘otororo.
like arithnieti - learned at school. fbev drl
not think of applying art to everyday life.
but even lessor“ are taking practical shnpev
utd the latest. s'iilio idsa. that of the “cos
tuato claw.“ wrll pernips s::_.-,go~t the line
upon which impruvatuant mes: bs;in——that
of nature, not vlrh out»
casttunmr cos‘rt‘lls.
Here isa study ofa walking costume in
cashmere which is very simple. yet very
charming. almost perfect in its grace of our
line and freedom from all conventional ro~
Itrnints, such as pads. tiwbncks, stool bars
mid other encumbrances It is a copy of
one of Liberty‘s watercolor designs, and is
made in two shados of lfiuritza cashmere, or
an‘otlior soft. solf‘colan-d. all wool mate
ria . Brown and ecru. two-trades or gray,
. Currant red and dark green or garnet and
the most ancient badges on record—9
claims our attention.
legend accounts for its adoption as the
emblem of Scotland. On one occasion
itr ancient times an army of Danes landed
unobserved on the Scottish shore. Find-
ing that the Scots were encamped at a
iittle distance, they resolved, 'eontrary
to their general rule, to endeavor to stir-
rise them by night. Stealthily advanc-
ing upon the enemy‘s camp, they had
nearly effected their pur ose. and victory
seemed already within t eir grasp, when
one of the barefooted invaders trod upon
a thistle. He was unable to suppress a
cry of pain. The alarm was given, the
Scottish warriors flew to their arms, and
fell upon their assailants. whom they de-
feated with great slaughter. In grati-
tude to the plant which had thus guarded
the sleeping camp, it was henceforth]??-
0
device, with the appropriate motto,
“Nemo me impune lacessit," distin-
guishes the Order of the Thistle, insti-
tuted in the sixteenth century. Dun-
bnr‘s poems are said to contain the ear-
liest mention of this flower as the Scot-
tish emblem. His poem. "The Thrissel
and the Rois," was written in 1503, on
the occasion of the marriage of James
IV. to Margaret Tudor. Unfortunately,
it is impossible to determine which is the
true Scot-ch thistla—Gkambers‘ Journal.
The Ticking of the Clock.
Slight though the ticking of a clock
may he, says a writer, its sudden cessa-
tion has a wonderful influence upon the
inmates of a room in which the time~
keeper is located. A dim naltution of
something wrong steals «river the senses
—-a feeling as if something of value had
been lost, or a friend had gone away
perhaps never to return, or as if some of
the children were sick, until suddenly
one looks and exclaima. “Why, the
cloek’a stopped!” And immediately the
ill-delaed fore dissipate, the
hastily theratory of his son‘s l little shadow of gloom mute away, and
for Tomrny is in jail for ekinrza pocket. » as the winding-n is
But I dealt believe he unhappy. ‘ and the ‘the
I
mdmdnudthene-baewuda
what it was that made then feel so
Mafewmuhefere.)
The following :
fawn o well together. The red in either
case, t e brown and the darker of the greys
being used for the skirt. which should be laid
in the knife plaits. The overdres is smock-
ebaped, but, rather narrow. the fullnemuvlrat
there is of it, which is only just 0110 h for
one over the enlarged portion of the y,
beln‘ ptheml into the honey~corubed Ihir~
ring? the throakand morefihtly pulled in
at waist. under the mft . which holds
It without any gathering string and ndinihs
of its being drawn up to the left side, where
it opens and falls in a series of draped folds.
The only shaping is under the arms The
armhole: aroleft nearly straight. so that the
urns move with ease and freedom and give
abundant space to the sleevea which are a
modificntion of the old "lea of~mutton" and
may be tracked here and them to an inner
lining or to tape: attached to the inside of the
lower part of the arm and to the top of the
ehmlder. The shop: of the lower part of
theeleeveennbeaeen y the itionoftho
left arm, which is turned so t~ at the hand
inches the bodice. The hat matches exactly
the upper part of the dress, the bunch of
feathers the tint of the shirts.
forms. that woman will be '
decrease of artitlv ml humps ‘
and excroaoeiuvs—the shortening and lengtn~ '
this country. and many
graceful figure in its lovely drapery of white
and gold or pale yellow with embroidery of
Pompeian red. or the quieter olives wrought
in leaf tint; Which characterized her eve —
defy attire. There was nothing so abeoln y
di event in this dress as to attract attention;
it was only mnepicuous from its soft flowing
lines and the absence of the usual bumps and
E high contrasts.
The underdre. of this costume is an aha»
lutely plain. straight morning gown, which
may have an upright tucked bodice rthe tucks
very fine; if the wearer is thin, but is other-
wine shaped under the arm and gntherod into
the belt. orit may be cut all in one nnd a
belt arranged simply to mark the line of the
waist. The drapery newts in cutting, it may
be arranged from a shawl or a square of any
soft. double—width material. nun‘s veiling,
cheese cloth, fine wool, silk or lace. The
_ embr‘C-iderysis easily and quickly done in out-
line stifch in one or two colors or two shades
of the same color. but it is better to use
only one color, utilise two colors or
two shadia can he so judiciously used .8 to
prmluce agood Insult. and this can be as-
tamed by knowledge and experience only,
not by direction through amedium so liable
to inruatnstructitm as words. It should be
understood from the beginnin that all
colors used in art costumta are Sf t. and poo~
sees de th rather titan surface color. so that
they at themselves ruddy one to another.
The original of the Greek dress was made in
Tumors silk, in its well-known delicate ecru
or stone-colorist tint; and the embroidery in
flame t‘t)lor. which has a lambeut quality.
not in the least like the brick rod. which is
often called by its name. The owners of the
drapery are united to;ether on the shoulders
with cleans of inwrought stoneor metal. and
the ruchtugs are of the silk. foathsrel upon
thonlge. or of emhrnlderol lace.
i
l
\
ASt‘lEVT GREKK t'i‘lS‘l’l’VE.
Thedosigu from the ancient. ‘;N‘.‘k. it will
. be soon. is a tnmlitication and cozuhinatrcn of
the “flier tw-I. with features of its own that
are dlll'or‘uut from either The foundation
drm‘~ is very mach the suns as in Mrs Filer-
fer‘s firm-k gown. «Keep: that being Itifli‘ ;r\
[\l'llll.l‘l«l to: onliuarv use thesloovt-s are cut
to the wrist Th.- ovonlms is holiovr-d a
little at !he nerk. from and lKha‘k. but other
woe gatherel in at the waist ~u:1i_\‘ wrtn in we
fillllh‘xw exavtly like the "t‘Ashnieru .‘os-
tnnn-“- excepting that the drapery is lifted
noun-what to the right of the “pent“; and
him: by 12o clasp at the belt The l‘ody part
is alsocu: I‘; more to the arm. the slat-rm
, being less fuli and n-;uirin¢ lass Spam
3 London per-loaned. Last year Hrs. Prfeifer ;
with her husband. also an eutha- and a musi- ?
cinn of ability, though an amateur. visited -
will reenll the toll, '
f
. “gown,“ instead
used
l
g; or “ toilet " bumu
tyre with flue. "viral
coprs commonlv called
gold strings
‘ the “m—
Mf'andhubeen thy subject! of a.»
very striking and pictnrmne. and
' ' are employing it or a mod.
nullinen
identifier“: extendvely for must-e and lit-6
elegirh. The “gown“ is In effect the “nur-
E
plieo”oftbeChnr-oh of England It- too-
tut. 'l the rattler full flowing!
sleeve—the top of which almost joins the ool— ,
lar and the eeun of which is on the outside."
when-eitiemade ‘ tlyfulluvrell eswtdol
‘ of under the .Ila-m The'
a long, sun“ t atom-1
shaped under It'll. on the shoulders.
and witha gathering or Wane-n pleot ill
the heck, which flows out from the figure.
and ltianot fastened down A triad her:
my not be or“ of place in to t
adoption of the English word
or “rims." as con»
manly in this country.
Like much other adopted phraseology, It is
both wellness! and misused It is a gm:
mistaketo apprise that. it ii used by all of
those who do n- it “tintply because it. is
Englid) don‘t you know!“ It has the ptsitive
merit ofcorrectnas midgood usage to justify
it. “'hen .3 “dm” is nude all in one piece
fromneck tofeet it is a “gown? former-l .
when out at the “in. it we: a “fruit.“ {t
is vvreatlng dur- from its original mooning.
which was generic ant inclusive. to limit it
to the u rer- eut which from n
woman‘s re-L moderudrms vocal-hr!
contains French wonls which have bis-urn
naturalized. \Vliy rut “English." thick: is
our mother Ionque' \l'e use- ostume and
toilet without a sneer and With-rut referring
to where tlgey came from. \\'hy not gown,
which is needed to dedguato the long {or—
rueut for which we hau- uo liante exwpt. the
incorrect and morph-“ire one of drum?
It n'ouid be a real advantage to the public.
and s-n-emuch crmfu‘ton as w -lt us atontAl
"Griffin“ and cxplarnh .u,‘ if the
=vvord could be applied to the thing—in
woman's drew—as in garments worn by men
-for example. “'0 tin}: the word toilet“
tvudoh from the French. an l now we call it
indiscriminately, toilette, or toilet. This lat
word isuot properly our loyal. it is forced
from its correct usage vr so it in mode to
moan only a port. of its-ll. A Preach~
woman Will spook of trunking ber- tuilet for
the evening. but alre- this the word in
its generic sum. her t ulvtte. fanning port of
her toilet. and so well is int. understood out~
side of fuhinna and laslizovt writing that the
article of furniture In a ladv‘s timing room
which contains the tune! a newer": and a ~
purtennncee is known as in" "toilet‘ ta 6
It is ;r-t'm.v to be prob
ty well understoml now that “aniline“
means oi: the outside upris of a walking out-
flf. composed of a t‘fllllltluflltun of materials:
I‘hllx’.‘ a “suit " means ilr.- \‘lzite mused of
one material. Suit and ‘7 uslulllv‘ are more or
less “ coruplot. “ as they nr-- made to Include
jacket. bonnet, muff ur tlreirrsprxalen's
Children ue much more naturally, as well
as more bountifully, disused now than of late
yours, or any time sm- e they were made the
copies in miniature of it.» full“ of their ol-
der: “K change vh- rmo partly to the
vvrdor‘ distriburm. ul Loo“ owl;- of physio—
logical law. partly to tb-~ advance all along
ft. Inn. of practli‘nl czmxs J" l partly to the
, nudorn art and asrimta- ci- run in as applied
to the dress of children as well as women
costume in two shares.
A
i-l‘ two colon, o!
The.
“tutorial if the |\\‘t‘h‘m<~ is what is known in _
Loud in as Aral-ran cotton » lt has a
llllll'fllyy crinklwl or vrepy surfnce. Irragu~
lnr‘iv r‘dgod and failing in very close and
gran-2rd fold: It was usrsl by .\lias Antler»
‘or her tialatcadross, designed by a Lot:-
- Eh’ls’l. and proved more aruer-ab‘e to
or fish. minim-merits than the China crv-re n‘.
$1 ‘per yard which she had previously (“in .
plm‘orl ‘ The skirt of the underdms may he ’
anthem! or pleated. utidr-r‘fnnd pleat-wt not =
Halted; :‘or
the sense of
and ls‘ not prop-fir arc-lief to straight folds
but gathcring is more suitable for figured
prints, such as that of w hich this skizt is
made. as it does lit-l mun-eai any part of the
pattern and is irinro varsity laundried
fair was toruieriy only used in .
warding or weaving fogvtlier, \
.deeugi. consists of us
These most tunes are all what would be called '
.rsfiieti‘. yet they are beautiful, gram‘ftti
simp‘e. convenient. and easily adapkxl to
dutch-tit nus Ti \'
t;tt‘.z.‘s
m1. 321‘.
cashmere for n :31 5
Liberty s designs. an-i .~ adapted to a girl of
from fourteen fr nutesn ins! difficult age
to deal with. when girLs unproaoh the woman
without hating parted their the child The
8:1l1l“<‘l;t. .\lt‘Q‘Tt‘lN
spat-d from otteof
' turns. shaped in t3 tlw “rust and drawn
up to the left side In .utzzrnl rolls over
the skirt of tbsa fro“... \\':‘!?‘b may I).
are al: i. r‘SPeN‘lIu)‘ the ,
castininnx costume. Lo nearly like the moles ,
of tu-day that. ill suitable materials and with
pr ~per treatment. they murld be worn asthcy
oro, sud have li‘r‘li. without evcttiu; unusual
Illi>‘ll‘t‘;~\l\. But one of the reastns why this
an iv done is because conventional ffl\lllxlll.
xv lid-- \‘llN‘l‘lllé. r‘evriing and ridiculing the
.sthr-ftc idea. has stolen its thunder anl in-
curpornte l i'. Ill fragments and without unity.
into its chart Ill and capricious repertoins of
the moles. fit Tins done this in selfslefonse
and because it was demnudal. Ideas are
scarce in a conventional lithosphere, and the
alsthetit-s had an idea to begin tutti—several
of them—and they adjressrsl themselves to
the taste and common wise of thinking in»
telli 'ent women. The evtravngancrs~ of tin~
llllnilllx‘ and senselm followers who on
d-vivor to gain notcriefy l-v exaggeration
undoubtelly disgusted them. but undr-rlviu;
all this they could not blitdiscovcr nu adapta-
bility to lovelv forms anl simple materials.
which mu better than more e rst. so long the
test of taste anl elegance. and aain.~ertty
, which is an essential element of morality in
drew: as well as in the qualities of mind and
rtant contribution made to the ethics of
rem in this generation, and the one that will
exercise the most decisive influence upon the
future.
The eexernem with which a new idea is
seized if it coma from an author-nth. source
is seen in the effort to utilise thksensntton
plain. tucked. or truuirmsi \vith rows of
velvet. The shirnrrg at th— tin-tut and upon
tbs-slaves is done in lit-Ttt‘it‘ttlflb pattern,
With Kemmgnur woo‘, m Konstantin stitch,
or the ordinary shin-m: may he overlaid
with herring bone strtv'i in no 'l. in a differ—
ent shade. or a comrmtru; o 3 ln tbza
case the design may ho reel-re I morc “flat"
plate by trizriiriirrg rh ‘ skirt a .té; two rows 0
velvet. 5; avast lbsl‘wrril. not put on xvi
herring bone stitch in wa» -l up in the zipper
and lower edges For younger girls. say of
ten and twelve years. an .‘idag-mtion‘hu
been. mile of thocartors‘ "titles frock]~ ‘
shapelr-s garment. mode ml: with full
sleeves. gathered in at too fopand at tb
neck, and honeyuxmbwl “lill siron' linen
thread in a by no moans ntartistrc fashion,
by the pum- Ironien of tl.c agricultural dl6~
trtt‘ttk Sn". dlinfy Irintri'rals.pret:y sharing!
and contrasts of coin. and n more decorau'
effect in the honeycotnbin; a! the thront .25
' upon the top of the sleeve».. iranst‘trmthia
‘ once despised garment
l sash adding
v
into a picturesque
frock, the soft folds of a fine wool or silken
~ the effect at drag-cry to the
straight, simple folds of the skirt. .\t ten and
, twelven girl has no shape and the nwknnL
hurt. Thus. whatever may he said of it, it .
will be found eventually that the socalled t than the Width nmnnl the shoulders 'u M
aesthetic eternent is the truestand most im- faithfully conspicuous by a fitted frock or
(Tented by the appearance of the Princess of ;
\Vala in the dress of the graduattw upon lgrnccf'ulfigum [Inna-do ofsiik and. volvot.
whom adegnee iscopferned at the college of 3 gold and wine color. red and black, or A
music in Dublin. 1;
visit of her royal highnesean honorary do-
ree w“ conferred upon her and she was
ormally invented in them!) an! inn, uhich
proved very Incoming. for thou; no l
my young and never strikingly hunti ul. ’dnrk
possesses an interesting and expressive
face. whim retains itschu-rns and even gains
something with increasing gotten the axe:-
eise of a lovely dismition.
the occuionef the;p-.wnef
l
no: of a waist Which measure. more inche-
te costumes; the gathered “smock
frock."ou the contrary. 3;]Yes her are And
Ways the grace of five. outrun-cu
movement, while it is readi‘y adapted to h.
A conventionuined codeine adapted fro.
the Russian fora ‘rl of twelve is effects“
but regain-8a rs sleaier and naturally
ul shade of bhac '1!!! dark 1".
under-dress is of the bugh‘ t shade in silk. m
bands of the same. covend vrrzh dim
in narrow black. dark green or lain- collated
velvet. The tunic is of plain velvet In the
“seeketchesmy sag»: to van-g girl:
thermofasmdy ofform. as it mintestothe
practical work of planning mvenng for it,
and not only tbs economy but the exporta-
nity for the exercise and developin-nt of ar-
tistic taste in hunting their own dry-rut.
ers. One of tho most. valusb‘c idens to be
derived fro- the send]; 0! art and from Ib
tires-of the mimetic schoo. b the folly and
Impropriet of superfluous moment—of
trimming the: no punxrseanl no ninth:
to the amcle it is intended to adorn This
one ro- well Impressed upon the ninth of
our young women would moraine their dress
and exercaea beneficial influence upon our
entire social and domestic life
rev/w
When the Cat is Away.
umPI‘fod‘Chr: you have not been a
good gr! ay. [ominetead of help-
w throw stones at that poor old rags
let, you about! have told your
playmates that it was wrong. You should
tryanddo somebody a kindne- every
day. You know the rhyme :
“Ooutthatday led who. low dale-db;
II-
Seunttyhnd-owufiym‘ don-1’
(Hera: "Yea. m latte-day III
c! .endthevewua‘t '-
eud. y anyone. I“
“war—A
OM
Norwalk Chronicler