" W ‘ . ‘ .WJV‘m
Hatsof , All Sizes, Shapes and Fabrics, Come
The small hat remains thé majority choice of the smartly dressed
woman.-It is worn well down over the eyes.- Large hats are
sometimes worn and cowboy felts will he in evidence at the
winter southern «sorta—Green and purple two chosen colon-
French women still think one black hat 'necessary.--Plush and
’ velvet much exploited by milliners.
DU hear conflicting rumors women now wear narrow-bummed
about hats, and the woman or brlmless hats, while at Dean»
who likes to post you on the villa and other smart resorts in
latest fashions may tell you things August ninety per cent of the
:rll‘oiugtthe newb nulliaery that tfou- women were wide-bummed hats. ‘
semen serve one you ave
made 8|” where. ‘ Shall We Show Forehead?
Thus young. little Mrs. Know—It- Now as to the hat that shows
All who lives in a small town but the forehead. Are hats going to
be worn. high up in front. are eye-
autumn. but we usually pass them
by. under the impression that they
are rather unbecoming. less. of
this prejudice seems to be in the
air. Perhaps the greens, offered
are more becoming. There is one
of the greens offered by some of
the mllliners that is so black that
you have to look at it a second
time before you are quite sure. It
is in reality a very dark Russian
mg! i
'5 pg 9
e4 «a
«as: .
York assures her friends that hats
who has recently been in New
brows again going to be visible?
are no longer being worn down
low on the brown. They are up
and off the face in front. All the
smart girls in New York are wear-
ing them that way. She bought
some new little hats at one of the
specialty shops in the theatrical
district and she is ready to argue
the matter with any one who still
thinks it is the fashion to wear
hats down low on the forehead.
Why. that's old stuff. Nobody in
N'York is doing that any more.
And then there is Mrs. Smith.
Her husband, you know, has re-
cently acquired quite a fortune—-
they spent last summer traveling,
had their first whiff of salt air and
their first glimpse of European
shores. Mrs. Smith spent several
Large hat of
with gold kid
crown
v
1
arm, of top, mm m sq of rezef‘wua some.» W 8”“,
eff! felt bow used for Wanting. Below. W 9910" m with, gilded
nether trimming. At flake. velvet hot with embroidery and Jeweled
ornament for trimming. _ .. '
. .. .u .1 ..... u:....u..i.,. L‘t d. «Kins-«3‘.-
There has beena—unmistahbly—a
vbsus for the little hat that rounds
up in front. to show the‘mbrows
and the forehead. It has had con~
siderable popularity with young
women when we still refer to as
honors for lack o: a. better name.
But there have been innumerable
'vsrylwsll' dressed American women
who have never thought of ado t-
ing this fashion. So far Berle .e-
signers seem to be making hats.
designed to be worn as far down
on“ the forehead as ever. .. [And oh
course what that is not specially
designed to show some entire brow.
ought never. never to be worn so
that it does. . . v
{he Milli-cry Rainbow ¢
_Poiret "seems to'have felt the
pulse of Hsdame Fashion with
weeks in Deauvilie. and what she
can't tell you aboutneauville and
all the mad. rich folk who go there
isn't worth. telling. . And ‘Mrs.
Smith assures you with a, newly
aoculred droop to her eyelids that
, large batsareall the rage. Small
, hats are trite panes. .
, ’ . j Rats vs. email
The. trouble is that Hrs. Smith
spent tocgmuch time in Deauville
and slow other resortsiand too
.iittie time in Paris—aha thinks of
on only as a summer‘reeort.
and: forgets that, summer sunshine
wanes and sands on the-sea grow,
cold andngray in France as they do
in. our own country. The tart!
hat was unrivaled for a. cumin”
lesbian. but for occluwaathjer‘the
small hat has again assumed im-
portance. ; French designers do not V
forget the logic that snakes‘the ranged to have the two predomi-
wide sombrero the favoritehat‘of nestingeoicrs shown in his estab-
sc‘asy Spain and the close-fitting inhalant-«Verona» green an
turban tho hatoi Nertharphcssla. royal purple. . For in to this
" To be sure. there are large hats cosmetic be the logical
among those . norm and already moment. for these two colors and
were for 1.11.1 and winter. there’ara women who have never
are m on more in evidence '
"ro than they were twelve months. and
1 “fibril they have byno means,
73%|! .lhe ' smart. narrow-
bri‘raraed cleans. the beretta. the
bet-at. scans and tho tricorne. ,
sen observerhaa id
chairperson! of the
considerable accuracy when he art .
d much as they, have
black velvet
fans on the '
oflreal‘ sins nose. Besides it is
usually uni becoming. Then
there is malachite and'petroi green
and the much. talked about
Veronese green. ,
Among the nearapurples that
are enjoying favor .of the milli-
ners ar ' various wine shades.
.Burgunfl t. and nordeaus among
them; Black Prince is of course
a very. darlt‘purpllsh rose shade
to say. is iu‘stplain plum. 'There.
are copper shades and of course
rose wood. or bola do roses '
,. . M m air-in
interestingly enough in. a season
when“ colors have Ibsen" trmdas
. an ,at the
present time‘and w the praise
dice against high o‘ ‘rs hasflhesn
removedte’sogreatauextenh the
tact remains. ’ or rather is cropping
up persistently. _ ‘
amaslngly well liked at the pres-
ammonium. The millinerswlii
tell you ransom
mend new . '
Micron»
and .prunslls. about which the‘
. French .mlillncrs have something:
. eighteen months sac.
that black‘hatsare _ 7»
ant naps: has :most smartly nor
. Ia coal,
Aliens, he! a! felt.
Winn.
a French woman that she does
in good repute.
” Old Shapes and New
as ,WW
no for,
place. of preeminence it
“hat" was alluost alive?! to
Volatile”;
Mtoflhddedpelwf tit divers»! slides of
need with beaver, with. strips olfltbs'lseonoresed
not
need at least one black“hat in her
wardrobe. and so long as Paris
continues to have the first if not
the last say in matters of dress
black hats will never cease to be
You may have heard it said that
the cloche shape was a thing of
. and gone and
with no mllliners to lay
a wreath on its grave or drop a
, ”Winter-two.
Varily it no longer occupies the
- did
when to II!
ll?
for women seemed to
know one other shape. But there
are still slasher-that is. ball-
shard
portant than
ttas. poker.
rues. .
is, a strong tendency
therewaclaat
u: , no unm‘iwliflio‘ m
m . "he.“ .
cowl“ rafter "l '
"ubshow an unturned 1b,
‘. Now they simply cm
a rather varied list
pas. They are no more
capellnu.
turbans or
this
it
. a rahish look 1 turning the ,
These where milliners' and dressmakers‘
will“?!
I
oil/3,,
“W in the milliuery fashions for Palm
u
'0'!”-
“mm. m
fairly lags he-shaped hats that
do this an there are capelines
with sides wide“all around. but
turned up in the back. Then there
is a new type of cloche—«a eioohe
all around and a quite conserva-
tive cloche. save fora bit oi up-
turned brim in tho back. ‘
., .-
" m-
flf‘m 1..
‘ serve notice in the autumn's show-
a
At right, above, closely draped turban of silk, with jeweled vessel for
its role trimming.
At left, hat of blocks of plush. in checkerboard or
cross-word fashion. .And below, in center, velvet hot heavily embroid-
ered with Japanese landscape an apt
women for the cool weather. But
they will unmistakably loom large
Beach and other resorts where
fashionable folk go after the first
of the year.
Beretta Is In Vogue
The beret or heretta is a shape
that is always liked by French
womenmpOssibly because they find
it so becoming. Molyneux has had
much to do with this shape for
autumn and now they are talking
of beretta crowns placed on
cloches and heretta crowns on
turbans. It is the soft tam
o'shanter crown that makes such
strong appeal.
4‘ Other shapes there are that de-
ing of hath-the pirate shape dear
to the heart of the college girl and
the flapper—the tricorne, always
a favorite with the conservative
woman of fashion. helmet toques.
3d Robin Hood shaper—also a
vorlte with the younger women.
.There are mousquetaire shapes
and Henry VI shapes and Louis
XVI shapes—these last three hav-
ing graceful rolling brine—and
J an e Bianchot, . distinguished
French milliner. has a new pots
of Victorian inspiration that
she calls a cabriolet. ,
Mndvm
stars are using velvet.
. and velvet brocade lav-
urnrrl brim.
Materials Are Combined
Materials are interesting? com-
bined in the new hats. elt is
used with grosgrain. felt is used
with velvet and felt is used With
hatters' plush. Moreover velvet
and suede are used on the same
but and so are felt and velours.
Metallic leather ornaments of all
sorts are used lavishly and inter-
estingly on hats for all occasions.
One of the French milllners even
makes lovely evening hats of tulle,
trimmed with metallic .leather.
One French hat is made of Shan-
tung silk, encrusted—as the milli-
ners say-«with floral designs cut
from a heavy sort of chlnta. The
effect is charming and it is only
on close observation that one can
tell how it is produced.
THE WAY WITH W
It really wouldn't be such an iso-
conoelvable turn of fashion it be-
fore many years women—or ash.
ionabie women—go about with no
stockings whatever. The union
for hare arms was brought about in
a very short time. Once women
would almost an soon have gone
about with bare legs as to appear
in city streets with arms bare above
the elbows. At some ed the smart-
est seaside resorts in hence this
year numerous walnut were no
stockings for tennis and other
sports. in fact. you never really
could tell—since atocldngs when
worn were chosen tomateh fire has
legs. However. it hardly seamed
ishiy-oergo mllllners must offer
velvet and plush hats.~ That lathe
way one observer puts l inr-
ing none of the initiative in this
velvet fashion for the makers of
hate.
The tact is that more yards of
velvet have been used by the mil-
llners than ever before in the his-
tory of the world. and proportion-
ately many more velvet hats are
“and by the smart milliners now
than-sin many seasons past.
may be of course that the reason
behind it ail—the thing that
But while you hear much about
the hats turned up in the back you
also hear about the hats that are
turned upin front. leaving a fairly
deep brim at the back. are
some interesting evsni is of
this persuasion. .
You may know—4nd you may
not—~that at the fashionable
French resorts and, to some extent
here this summer. women have
been“ wearing quite large felt or
velour sport hath—much like the
felt sport hat that we hushed
forseasoas.‘ save that it is large
as a cowhoy's hat. it is soft and,
pliant. hows r. and can be you
up on one side or the other.
large - felt math-that “truly are
charming after our am i. narrow.
f brimmed‘ felts-have j
.-, carded :; has mm “la-Monet“
a’dm
prompted both dressmahers and
milliners—le the, marvelous im-
provements that manufacturers
have recently made in the manic!
of velvet. The new 'velvsts are
to the standard velvet cf‘a decade
or so ago what the present day
artificial flowers are to the con-
ventional artificial newer that we
knew in our childhood. If our
hats andfrochs are for more
charming than those of our
mothers lunch attire credit due
toiliersaher'ofthem . a
‘ the tabrlcs as well as to the mini.
hers and dressmakers themselves.
A vlsit‘to any of theia'rge shops
materials of the but ran! are sold
a . ' may well thrill his
hearts any woman with a love of
the beautiful. _ ‘
ad which our ‘eix
the right thing to go about with
here legs unless they had acquired
a deep coat often and had become
quite dark. Girls and. women went
through a rather painful process of
tanning on the beaches before they
felt audicientiy eunburned to .33."
on tennis courts and el are
without stockings.
mu cum rinses
These has been a lot of talk about
the possible revival of the bustle
i dren. Poirot played‘ with the idea
last winter and there 'are' come
charming evening gowns made with
the fullness puffed. bustle-wise. at
the back. Moat. rout felt out such
fashions were merely flashed in the
pan. it named impossible that any-
thing could coroe of it. At French
resorts this sunnner' there have been
rumors of‘ a possible bustle revlval
and everyone interested in clothes
was much interested when in late
August in Deanville a well-dressed
woman at the races wear-
ing a veritable bustle frock. it was
in light mauve muslin. The slut-t.
inch-wide tucks
around the lower edge. was a trifle
longerthanmoltskirtsarsthiseesw
son. The waist was close-fitting and
at the old-time“ normal position
while; the bustle effect at the back
accentuated itsslinmses. The sleeves
were. ~very Wand narrow yellow
.iace’tlrlisited’ , ‘ neckline.