Combin 1‘? ‘
ma women so content with
F the line and style of W
they already had accepted s
only thing that dredstuaiters could
do for this autumn and winter was
to offer these tried and approved
styles in new materials, richer. more
splendid materials. withmore elab-
orate. more intricate trimming. So
the saying has gone around that
while there has been little radical
change so far as the styles‘are con-
So it happens that many of the
most fashionable women-40mm
who could easily acord to buy these ‘
rich and gorgeous clothes—«nerdy
look awhile. admire and turn away.
Then they persuade their dress‘-
makers to make something simple
and wcsrable. smart and becoming.
of-‘oourse there are some women
who have no such prejudices toward
the ornate. They. will have as much
gilt and tinsel and metal embroidery
corned there has been big change so and shimmering lace on their frocks ing elation. 7V0! i _
. . ‘ .as n- u eta will allow. M00 ‘0? WM ill '1‘“, . .
far as the materials so .9"! b .63 this season ma» ‘9‘ 110:“.th T. .
- greatest objection scam-titer tins /
purpose has boen‘ almosttg‘ehtirely, g
withdrawn, for the. new .i f ugwl- A
yet is so smooth"end .. ;
pliant that it can beret-limb h. um “I
log almost as comfortably...” satin.
Poiret's lame .e piling costs lin .
with velvet sresupremsly beautiful.
.Jesn Paton accompaniflv allvhis '
~ velvet evening frocks with lame ,
.zcoats lined with the same ”velvet-1
i
Q
k“‘s
‘?'7 F.
1‘-
_..\\.
n". “
3.2
mu have. on" ~ ~' " 1 _-
we. Bunnie "alrebsadsmlorm that , w 1 1. . ,1.
tot sting." ",‘At right, silver cloth? - : - . i , . .‘
(wwy‘fififi; “M? gammy; Kasha must not‘be m. . cam nostrils made» at; it with, worst. '
h “an,“ sequin! " the :cnumemtion of fat-aloe ' for kaolin in :3 Quanta-“n“ colon; “it“ ‘ ..
- ’ . autumn and winter. Though millet" unlimitjhit: , 1 ‘01, file‘muerial ‘ .‘.
if. ‘ “ lightweight xi-ool. it is quite heavy" gives it mu truth lt'is' some- ‘
g» enough m the useful jumper" or tunestused‘for“thi‘llningsof imam .-
cno-pieco frock. and eoznetimes,e.of_.other materlaiai " I
_ e ..
.——1"~
-‘
35145
E!
u
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n
At left, coat of heavy wool plaid. in gray and black squares, with
flecks of color in the stripes. The collar is of squirrel. In the center,
frock made up of black: velvet blouse, trimmed with silver kid, and worn
with black satin skirt. The hot is of black satin, with groups 0! cording
breaking the surface. At right, brown ribbed silk~40ith a very heavy
rib—used running horizontally and vertically to good rflect in smart frock.
The only trimming consists of small brown buttons.
So there is as much to say about
the new clothes as ever, and as
much excuse for discarding last
year’s frocks and wraps even
though the line remains little
changed from that of last year.
These new gowns that the dress-
makers have to offer and that fash-
ionable women have been wearing
for the past few weeks are really
too lovely, too resplendent, too
beautiful. Bo elaborate and clever
is the workmanship on many of the
new gowns and wraps that you
must look With close scrutiny to
know how the effect. is gained—
whether it is made by bits of
metallic leather. or by metal thread
embroidery, by endrustaticns of
beads. by appliquees of metal cloth,
or harvsoever.
Extrsvsgsncs Rules
The masterpieces of the French
designers this autumn have shown
not the slightest disposition to
economy. The most gorgeous fabrics
are used and hours and hours of
patient needle-work are added to
these fabrics to give further en-'
richment. Ar evening gown of
The New Vslvets
“What is that new shiny soft
velvet?" is a question that the re-
tail salesmen of dress goods must
grow weary of answering. Wher-
ever these new lustrous velvets are
displayed they attract attention.
yet few women 'know that these are
the new rayon velvets. That is to
say velvets made of the iiher that
we used to call artificial silk and"
now have agreed to speak of as
"rayon."
"in other words," said one sales-
man to a customer the other day.
“they are imitation velvets." .
Having long grown accustomed to
the conventional silk or silk and
cotton velvets, plume velvet and
chiffon velvet this worthy individ-
ual seemed to hold these new shim-'
mering velvots ‘in some sort of
scorn. Really. of course. there is
nothing imitation about them. Rayon
velvet is a fabric that certainly can
stand on its own merits and it has
been usedwith enihusisv- Eloy the
French dressmakers ' several
seasons—thong; egin with it
was called artific l velvet and it.
has never before been so beautifully3
’5!
I
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7/1?’
LI
[.5211
.,y///
. P ‘with tulle or chiffon ,to"match.
rayon velvet. either-palette for
Velvet may be used ‘with gold lace
or elaborately trimmed with beads
or metal embroidery. Velvet and
chiffon brocadeenre still good. but
not so new as the other volvets.
.. Crepe satlns elaborately bended. or
[combined with chiffon or georgette.
‘5 are used for many of the narrow»
i ning frocks. 'lfaiile is‘ used forum
of the new dinner frocks. ’ . .
‘Fer'etreet frocks and ensembles—a
' '12st of all sorts nre‘prime
favorites. Those are very soft and
lovely and come in a variety of
weaves and colors. Xasha lined
with knaha is used for the costs of
. some of the new street costumes.—
the lining being of the same color
kaeha that the frock is made of and
the coat of contyasting color. A street
ensemble is made of‘ rich brown
velveteen with lining and Jumper
frock of reddish brown - striped
men's shirting silk. Blue tweed is
used. for many street suits and
frocks—the blue being a soft blue
lighter than cornilower. Balbriggsn
in all wool and in wool and silk is
used for street and sport frocks and
flannel is in great favor.‘ Manuela
of all colors are sold in the shops
at the present time and are used
for interesting street and sport
frocks.
For costs—-
Velveteen and velvet is used ex.
tensively for costs. Velvets of
various sorts‘ seem. to be taking the
place of the duvetynes almost en-
tirely this season. Broadcloth has
been used somewhlt. . .
For evening wraps—-
vet. “ V‘
'3 . ‘ .
To, ' wear ‘ with. the rather {formal
ensemble, the blouse or masonic of
of. motion the new .ensembles are
to match the cloth of .the costume.
Down Fashion
. RI.I..LIAItl'.i‘dimEl)~ velvet peas-y
the negligee makers. One very
smart garment-of this. sort” mentli
seen was of , bright green velvet
trimmed with large gold ‘9de
m
Venetian. red velvet slim the col-
lar. ffcnts and cuffs neatly braided
with narrow gold braid and stitch-
eflect. _ ’
pumps there are buckle shapes ms
of cut-out red leather laid oVer bi 0
leather withj‘ silver buckle over all.
A maker of smart sport-stare
is showing Jumpers made from
kasha blankets“ Just‘reeeived from
Moo 1 3‘9"? “'0 01.; the hilt!
blank ’wse exactiyvaiilr'e.‘ scam
these ‘ pets havedenided initividé
quality. They “show natural hubs
stripes of varied widths in M.
crown. was ether-isolate.
ten—had .
This ‘il' used teams ‘trlnming
gongcous gn‘ ‘ rncnde may be em- it if hi it is . fl . . ‘ .
banished h intricate ' design 3° 5" ” mm“ a” '3“ “1° 'Metal cloth and velvet seem to A fab “ ‘ . ‘
wrought on silver and coral "8"!“ “m“ I° 31“” 1’ it that . divide the honors for the evening has-s'fleo- mf’£‘gmf “”333:
heads. It is almost painfui'to con-
template the infinite patience with
which each of those tiny silver
beads and bits of coral were sewed
into place on that already gorgeous
silver cloth. Tiny bits of leather.
each turned to a lovely ometallic
sheen. are sewen into position on
curiously devised petals of tulle or
silk net. and there are pearl beads
here and there to add further to the
bewildering beauty of the frocks.
Like Gear-pews Altir Cloths ' ’
Very beautiful are most of these’
new frocks—yet too beautiful bo-
osuse somehow so inappropriate
for most occasions. In years gone
by women. worked tirelessly to
make priceless tsputries and em-
hroideries. They made fabrics as
rich end as intricate and as beauti-
ful as these. but only women of
queenly rank could wear such fine
raiment. Otherwise such gown.
fabric went to deck some shrine .or
altar; to drips some favorite image
or to form priestly vestments.
Somehow these gorgeous fabrics so
lavishly used and prodignuy em.
belUshed by the dressmakers this
autumn seem better suited to adorn
some pagan shrine . or medieval
altar than to math women's clothes.
there almost'seems to be a. metallic i‘i
luster about it.
‘Trenspmt Velvet
There are other lovely new vel-
vets—a new chiffon velvet so thin ‘
that you can see through it. new.
panne velvets and a luxurious val:
vet of the old-fashioned sort with ‘
erect pile and a firm backing.
Paul Poirot uses velvet lavishly:
in ,his new clothes and has perhaps
done more to bring into importance
the black velvet gown than any one
else. 'They say that Poirot has dis-
covered the important fact that a
gown of soft black velvet is the
most becoming thing that any
womanofanyagecenilndtowesr
—-that is. of course. if the gown is
made as it should be: It should not
be av? ornate, it should be close-
iittiug enough to show the graceful
lines of the body. Black velvet has
the faculty of making women look
very slender, but does not impart
the aspect of manganese that 4. and usually trims these costs with
Velvet end Chiffon
sometimes brought about when the
slender woman tries to wear black
satin;
.--,.,,_~‘
. , l] .
hodices of velvet. Mil; these airy.
fairy~chiffon skii-ta,’ mind you. are
made rather long—Ming almost
to the floor in the original models.
Velveteen~ is n.1nembsr of the
. One of the most interesting fabric velvet famil that? ‘ been used in
Distinctly Poiret-esoue is a black combinations of the season is to be great plentyyaud Ml
that will continue
velvet gown with a moulded bodice found in certain evening frocks to be used throughout the cold
and a slightly flared shirt; long. combining skirts made of manylay- months. This is is cotton backed
close-dtting sleeves. with little ers of chlifon and close-fitting rather substantial "mg 1m; up.
suit.
standing pile and insulted to costs.
iunipers and ' for-young girls:
and children. ‘ v. .‘
Though, the rage ,fitr {menulsh
fashions “has som‘ _ t' shatql.
mannieh fabrics are '1 *blgh faves};
They are used for. simple little
Jumper and one-piece frocks unwell
as for the conventional two-piece
wrap. if velvet is used it is apt to
show metal in the lining and many
of the metal costs are lined with
softwsleek yelvets.
For" afternoon gowns— -
All‘ sorts of crepee an'd crepe
satins are still» used. sometimes in
combination with velvet. or . vel-
«icon. The new satins have an one
usually‘dull surface and the velvet:
T‘were never so sleek. For the slab-
orate, formal afternoon gown rayon
velvet in one of the rich wine tones.
in blue or hols de rose is most ate
trsctive. Black velvet trimmed with
silver or gold makes a smart nftero.
noonfloclrorensenibie.‘ Q _ .
For. the “everyday” freeh—
For the girl in school orit work.
jumper books or balhriggsn. Jer-
sey are still very good. .‘They are
warm without being very heavy.
Kuhn is asleo'nse‘d for 'th‘sse‘littie
frocks and some of the lightweight
flannels would answer the purpose.
Among the new materials then is
shunning ohallisn-some of it in
smart wide stripesl some inthe pic-
turesque figures that we associate
with“ chailis. This is vsrmthin- and
is used to make winter timdpaiamss
as well as frocks. _ _ , '
foundation imbued animal tails of
blaoltplaced at intervals.‘ . .
”For the benefit“ many women
he prefer .vnther. lute handkeru
chiefs for sport ‘ and streets-ear.
there are many interesting speci-
mens of small‘ ieh'sized men's hand-
.kerchiefstobe . ht‘attbe men's
mumm- . ._
these " handkf etch! gets are m0
g: in: Monstrous.» bum the!
o no 'M’ anymore than
a smaller We! thicker
. Glove-Mien“ .. M ”in. match
are among members: ,
Some of thesefhsve little designs of
downs windsur- ._worhed in
pout-solutes themed-beck cuff
of the glove is hright‘col’ors and the
some design worked; on the mail
beg made to be carried when the
gloves sr’eworn. ' ' _
i ‘ . “‘9'"
Circular flounoes of gold lonesome
Ii! or eight inches widest the mid-
d‘n and -_.consldernbly wider at the
shops ‘anow- These ilcunces are to
he used in the making of the new
out; of chillers ortvelvet
gem ' - a
metal cloth or lame is. well thought ~
worn with blouses ot crepe do chine.
" mas are thelatest uttering of"
a charming .nttie’ costume L of
ing in goldQ thread carrying out the -
On' a patrolman): paunt leather,
backgroundgwith iarranments ‘of‘
tumour the new 'velvets one.sort .
is printed «to l-imitatesnslte-shln.‘
headings on cloth frocks and suits. '
tors. Buns of.‘
omit”!!- ‘
ends—ere to be had insome e! the
Norwalk Chronicler