ismched bands of brown uc‘ivet‘i
[om yoke androollar om helper
hook, as shown in the upper birdie.”
In lower circle,. embroidered bands
edged with {Mr form collar on voi- ;
vet frock. The figure mom a'
frock. ingeniously. trimmed with.
chino» pleat . which edges tunic
and is used a woven a handker-
chief at the pocket, edge.
once divided into three parts
~«the lining. the material of
the dress, and finally the trim‘
mlng.
The lining was quite complex—«
waist ’ lining, skirt lining. inter-
iinlng. hair cloth. for the - edge _ of
the skirt. belting. boningr and
dress braid to put around the edge
of the skirt—«a dozen or‘sb items
to be included by the drcssmaker
in figuring' on .the cost of the
lining. The material might be of
one sort or several. Usually when
one went to work to have a dress
made at the dressm er's the ma-
terial was first selected—kale trim-
ming being decided upon later.
A LL dresses. like all Gaul,~were
Gold Icirl. bromt’t‘d ribbon,
and gilt buttons trim this
tl'i'nr—(‘olorwl (‘i‘i'pv tic. chine
[rock and the L'Cll‘t‘! hat in the
some .vlmdr.
Always a very distinct line was '
drawn between the material itself
and the trimming. The dress
might be quite finished before the
task of applying the trimming was
begun—~and it was added in the
some way that a good cook puts
minced parsley. sliced hard cooked
eggs. pickled beet root'nnd'other
gsrnishes to a salad.
‘ Linings Have Gone,
That was the tradition of dress~
makers of another era. The old
order has'changed. giving place to
oneqnite as different as the order
of‘ clothes-making in ancient
Greece or" modern Japan. Linings
disappeared almost entirely. After
that trimmings almost went out.
That was one of the direct out-
comes of the war. And it was one
of the really good things} that did
come as a result of the war—this
simplification of women's [rocks
and the almost entire elimination
. of trimmings. In this way dress-
makers learned the trick of achiev-
ing beauty and distinction through
'1
the sheer manipulation of the mu-
terial. It made for a higher stand-
ard of dressmaking generally. be-
cause workmanship hurt to be
good when defects nnd. errors
could not be covered up by trim-
ming. ‘
But of severest simplicity in
dress it way. but natural 'that'we
shouidatirepjn And .anr at last
there some ‘ ood reason to‘bolieve
“that the a ton which we are
about'to- u'sherxin will be one of.
ornate clothes. ‘ Ifiliiners are try-
ing very hard to believe that more i
ornate hatsaro' coming back into
fashion. and drossmakers find
their more ornate models makinl
stronger appeal ‘. to women. who
buy than they,,did s season orl‘so
go.
But there is this big difference
hetween,;the trimming of today
and the trimming of a former gen-
eration. Almost always now it is
.conceived of as part of the origi—-
nal frock. and it, was only rarely
that this was done in the days of
yore. The designersees a track.
dreams it as it will look when com-
pleted and then works out the
equation in terms of materials and
trimmings: ‘
. New Trimmings Every Dny.
Every day seems. to add new
varieties of trimming to the list
that. dressmakers now have'st
their command. There are all the
old conventional sorts—~braldings,
ribbons. artificial flowers. beads.
bugies and nail heads. etc.. tassels
and fringe and lace. and then
there are others besides. It is as
if .the dressmakers- sent scouts
around seeking what next they
might use as dress trimming. They
have used raffle. wood. string. oil
paints and varnish. They have
borrowed from the millinqrs and
the house decorators and there
. are nolonger any materials or
fabrics that are not considered ap-
, propriate to thense of the dress-
maker.
. , .The most daring trimmingsal-
ways appear on evening frocks.
But sometimes the most effective
trimmings are achieved".by moans
L'snvin .
of the simplest mediums.
‘ trims a white satin evening frock
' with circles of black velvet in
graded sizes, each one edged
around with a gold thread.
Another - trimming noted on
many of the new frocks. and said
to be quite new, is in reality only
a new use put to an old device.
It is made of-sillt or velvet tabs,
cut in the shape ‘of flower petals.
Thousands _ot _ them —- literally
.pr
on. and at:
1. ., d‘shad this
trimming in“ ole - ., ‘
, , _. std-In} a... no...“ ‘
' Trimmingjst the odss Filth
hm lvflm‘on any of t one
frocks.- Somotf as it fall
not?! strips of fur worked.
I of silt.
detachments of ostrich.
_ ‘ , undue
one instance at least »
urea
TheJrook at ten. 0'; gold im, a
or other llabrft‘g’j
_~.‘woi" '
trimmed with. a( velvet ribbon oath
' tied at freehand a band of velvet ribbon about the top of the bodies of
the aeomette 1110. At. right. gilded f oz: fur, bead embroidery and metallic
ribbon trim o-cotin evening gown.
feathers have been used to form
the ornamental band at the edge
of a skirt. Sometimes there is an
edge made of rows of. beaded
fringe and sometimes a simple
plcot edge of beads. Sometimes
the entire edge of a shirt will be
finished with a tiny ruching of
duble tulle or silk, and sometimes
tWO layers of.tulle in different coi-
ors will be worked into a double
ruche of this sort.
. Fringe Boulethnes Used
hinges are frequently used; but
usually they are-not long. - Paton
uses little three-inch fringes‘of
.crystal beads; fsometlmos. in "hori-'
zontal rows.,"_sll along the lower
part of theg‘skirt of an evening
frock. . .. ' ,v
Some of the, new trimmings
really baffle one, “first sight.
French .dressm‘akers, seem to be
especially clever at'devisinz these'
surprises. Much clever work;- is
done by means pfinsets and ap—
pliquees of contrasting materials.
colored or metallic leather; is used
thus to decorate‘some‘of the cloth
frocks for autumn. and furand.
cloth of contrasting color are also
used. ' '
DECORATED HANDERCHIEF
For children decorative handker-
chiefs are quite the vogue. They
come for every day in the week."
with the names of the doYs om-
broidered on them. an sometimes
with the additional depiction“. by
means of embroidery, of a' scene
supposedly typical to the ‘ day:
they come with nursery rhymes
illustrated in print in the corners
or with the'alphabet,.essily spelled
words -and easily added sums
printed. as a border; ‘ they come
with the child's name embroidered
on handkerchiefs in all the shades
of all the colors of the rainbow.
“unattractive are these gaudy
little handkerchiefs for the small
boy or ‘girl. And if you can think
.up a new place.to tuck your own
or your small daughter’s handker-
chief. you have achieved some-
thing worth while. For‘tbis note
of distinctiveness is considered
very clever. They are now tucked
into pockets all over-tbe_frock's
surface. into pockets in cuffs.'on
handbags. on hat crowns, in scarf
ends. on gloves. They are thrust
between the teeth at the fur neck-
pleco. They are so decorative that
every effort is made to give them a
conspicuous place .in the costume.
w-_..._r.._.‘~.... . .. . . . . .. ........ in...
Here “and, There: . i‘
' ’in'Fqshionsy.
N France this summer some of
the smart women have worn
panama lists and panama shoes
to motels—shoes actually
from a panama hat. 5 Which all
goes to show that we are not. done.-
by any means. with the idea of
wearing things in‘ sets. Many
made. -,
women this autumn will wear hats. '
shoes. handbags, gloves and scarfs
that. are all its nearly matchinug as“. ' '
possible.
Velvet is used as trimming
bands for it. good many autumn '
frocks. One trick is to trim simple
, frocks oi jersey cloth with velvet
in the same shade.
For evening. some of the smart
French Wumull wear
buckles or. their shoes.
course i'il '3} vi (was American ~
women inuc rcri jewels set in the
heels of Izm r evening slippers.
now ilm the \ogue i’or ornate
footwear is upon us“
English .
women. it is said. _following the
load of their queen. ere-wearing
precious stones in their hats for
trimming—«in the way of brooches
and pins. =
There are- gloves with cuffs
faced with feathery—dove feathers
on some of them. in soft, delicate
tones of buff and, gray. Peacock
feathers on others. Sometimes
gray dove feathers with three pea-
cock eyes—or at least lovely
splotches of blue-green~on each
cuff. . ‘
-—|—-——-
Shades of rod that go by the
names of wine and burgundy are
used in many satin frocks for
early, autumn. They are particu-
larly suitable. these soft reds, for
autumn—warm and harmonious
with the season of changing leaf
colors.
Velvet is used in combination
with other fabrics for new frocks.
There Are velvet skirts, with tunic
blouses of georgette. There are
velvet bodices . with skirts of
shearer fabric. .
‘ The colored-and ornate hand-
kerchiefis still much in demand;'.
Flower handkerchiefs, 'with sc'al~
ioped, . irregular edges. in soft
shades’of‘rose or yellow. really
look almost. like rosebnds when
they are-crumpled in tho'hnnd.
Eigured .toular‘d‘ handkerchiefs are
”Wild, too. Some women make
a point'of always carrying a hand-
kerchief cf the same color. And
some women carry always a hand-'
kerchief of ‘the isame design, but
of different colors t match vary-
ing frocks. Such andlterchiefs
are sold in half dozens or dozens
of assorted colors. They are made'
with initialed an embroidered cor-
ners. with edges of lace. scallops.
picot or hemstitching.
.much too uncomfortable.
THE scHoOLtomL WlLi. wean
RICKET SWEATm—pull on
C‘ sweaters with o. v-neck at the
front—are in considerable de-
mand. and so are coat sweaters that '
button. down the front. ‘with a. v
opening. Some girls wear these.
with separate skirt and washable
blouse beneath, rather than the
woolen jumper frock. because they.
dislike the feeling of wool right on
their skin. ‘ ,
The fashion for, high collars will
probably not affect the school'and
college girl to the extent, of leading
them to wear high-necked frocks in
tho classroom. These would. the
However.
the high—necked effect is admired for
street-wear and this can bsiaehieved
by wearing a silk scarf knotted
closely about the neck even‘when a
low-necked frock is worn Beneath.
The llneof neck between the knotted
'scarf and tho {rock is not considered
undesirable, and of. courieiwhen the
coat .is donned this ‘sbowsfonly 3f -
little at the front. ' -
‘Shoes for schoolwcnr‘are a moot.
question with the school' girls. Last
winter there was some disposition ‘to
leave off the shapeless. flat oxford
iimt‘most glrlsvhad been wearing
and former a. high-heeled model of I
daiutier lines. Undoubtedly a shoe
of this sort looks very'much ‘better
with the very short skirt that is now'
' .worn on both sides of the Atlantic.
_._~
I
Norwalk Chronicler