GAY COL.
Afl'l‘UDli has much to do with
L color fashions. And because
the center for women‘s fash-
ions for all of what we call the
civilized world is located along the
banks of the Seine in the forty-
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The frock at left is of midnight
colors have p The bright
artificially bent
flowers and pal
of the fashion
even in winter y; er a little in- easy.
tervai of tropic viatence where ning clothes as they have been de-
g vised by French and American de-
signers (or this autumn end-vin-
ter are lovely beyond all prece-
dent, and this loveliness is in com
, . sidlerable measure due 'to‘ their
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broideredndll over its surface in, silver and crystal bedddfiizing a
glittering, sparkling effect. that is quite indescribable. :1 right,
jun per evening frock of lace and plcutcd silver lame.
eighth degree of northern latitude
the fashion for bright colors can
never remain a permanent thing.
If history had been such as to
make Madrid. not Paris. the hub
of feminine styles the canvas of
fashions would doubtless be
spreadwith more brilliant colors.
For Madrid is in the iortieth de—
gree of latitude.
So is New York for that matter
---and there is a general tendency
bare to interpret French fashions
with a more colorful brush than
that used by the originators. That
is so far as day-time clothes to‘be
worn in the city are concerned.
it really is a matter of) latitude~
a matter of the intensity of the
srtnlightmthat affects our taste for
color. rather than a matter of
temperature-4m New bork and
most of our other large American
cities are much more like Paris
than Madrid so far as temperature
is concerned.
In the summer observers spoke
of the vogue for bright colors that
prevailed in Paris as something
that might be permanent. The era
of dull greys. sombre blacks.
musty browns and unobtrusive
dark blues seemed to some to
have passed away. In their places
had come verdant greens. limpid
blues. vibrant reds and yellows
and intoxicating purples. So long
as the perfect weather of the
Grands Hematite lasted in Paris.
these rainbow colors lasted. Never
before had Parisiane worn such
bright colors out of doors.
fiomber Clothes for Street
But when gray days came as
summer advanced and as the
geitiee of the .early part of the
summer left Paris for seashore
resorts. these brilliant colors be-
came less and less evident. Cloae
fitting tailor-modes soon took the
piece of air! freaks and flimsy
cloak‘a'and copes oi radiant hues.
But. it was only for day-limo
outdoor wear that the brilliant
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blue chiffon with h em- "(h
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one may still wr the light
frocks. the soft th fabrics and
luminous colors th bloomed at
the races and germ parties for
a brief week or sea early sum-
mer. 1
So with the coral} of autumnal
weather it seems i the French
woman that the out occasion for
wearing bright cloth; come in the
evening. Perhnpreceuse our
skies are brighter iiautumn than
theirs and because 'e actually do
live eight degreesearer to the
equator we are in? inclined to
wear bright atree clothes than
are French wom . In fact
American women '0 not infre-
quently been critic d by North-
ern Europeans for s apparently
primitive taste in (3 rs. it hap-
pens that evening thee as they
are now shown fo evening are
more colorful than y have been
for many years bef e-so many
years before that th tbservcr does
not hesitate to any t they have
never been so colorf before.
Evening Alwey Tropical
One thing that. or have struck
you on seeing and sing present
in a gathering of w an in lovely
evening dresses. is at, words of
description really do fall to give
an adequate impreaeiin. Simply
to name the colors used in an
evening frock does not convey the
right color impression nor describe
the effect upon the beholder of the
subtle blending of the colors men-
tioned. Rose‘rolored georgette is
one thing when it is folded on the
shelf in the dry goods store. and
quite another when it is combined
by an artist with metallic lame.
beads. brocade and other rich
fabric. posed in skillful drapery
over the body of an exquisite
woman and worn at some evening
assemblage where- the hum, of
voices and the rhythm of music.
the scent of flowers. subtle per-
fume mingle against the back-
ground of wall~furnished rooms.
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, So it ie that descriptions of the
colors remain. i ahion {or on new evening frocks tail to carry
mug. in room lghtly lighted. a right impression to any but the
ecorated with moat imaginative reader. To teel
every evening the thrilling color of them tbroul'h
woman's life more force of words is not always
But the truth is that eve-
Below, froclo at left of menus
tantra with full skirt and
mold“ Deacon, trimmed with
violins lace. And at right,
draped satin bodice fastening
in front with ornament over
gold lace skirt.
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artificial flowers at the front of
and rod lama clip.
Blue In lmpoflant
Undoubtedly blue should be
mentioned iirat among the colors
for the autumn. It seems almost
as it makers of fabrics had dis-
covered shedea never known be-
fore. They have reproduced all
the varying shades of the sapphire.
from the lightest crystal through
the corn flower range down to
the really dark indigo shades
that are sometimes found in the
less valuable specimens of this
precious stone. Flower gardens
and green houses. fields and woods
have been traversed for blue dow-
era that might contribute a new
shade of this color. 80 we have
hydrangea blue and .periwinkle
blue and corn flower blue. The
deep opaque blue thatiwe some-
times call pencil blue and that is
spoken of as a leading color for
autumn daytime wear, is round
here and there in an evening
frock. sometimes in combination
with black, but it does not lend
itself especially well to the re-
quirements o! evening wear. The
new turquoise blue. which has a
good deal of green in its make-up.
is a good selection for the new
evening frock.
There are many greens-all the
way from pale chartreusegreen to
a rich. vibrant green that is almost
a jade. .
All the flower tones have been
canted over from summer to the
realm of evening frocks for
autumn and winter. Among these
you find the pinks. blues and
means of the sweet pea and the
morning glory. the rich rods of the
fuchsia. the blues. pinks and vio-
lets of- the ester. the yellows and
yellowish rose tones of the ‘snap-
dragon.
New Way min Beads
Neither the Queen of Sheba nor
Cleopatra could ever have had any
more gorgeous costumes than
a
At left. above, flesh tafiotd and tall. evening rroola with gold embroidery for trimming. more or!
Nest. black velvet with fullness at book and sides over‘ gold
The velvet is gold- mbroidered. The» a me o! Notable-green chino» all embroidered
with crystal beads. At right, brown velvet track with gilded fur and oppliqued duke of red, m and gold
kid, like confetti. This {rock to mac with normal immune.
the racist.
some of the new Jeweled and
beaded gowns tor evening. .* The
beads are used rather differently
now than formerly—the oilect ll
one of massing of the beadshere
or there in heavy ancruetationl.
Some of the new gowns are fairly
covered with beadawmeking the
weight of the gown almost bur-
densome. But then the total
weight of what a woman wears in
the evening nowadays is so small
that she can well manage to carry
around with her several pounds of
beads! Her lingerie ia scant and
light of weight. her stockings
thinner than a spider’s web and as
light, and usually she doesn't even
carry the weight of hair pins.
The neck-line was for many
years one of the chief marks 0!
distinction of the evening gown.
and it is one that always needs to
be considered in connection with
a dance or dinner gown. Interest-
ingly enough in this age when
critics accuse us of having cast
modesty aside and dared every ex-
treme of dress. the extremely low.
cut evening gown is not very often
iound among those offered for our
consideration by the great dress-
maker‘e. Quite often there is a
round neck-line scarcely lower
than that of a daytime frock. The
so-called betean neck. fairly high
at the front—touching the collar
bone—and out almost to the
shoulders at the side has. despite
all prediction to the contrary. euro
vived another season. It is n neck-
line that especlally recommends
itself to the American women of
discretion in matters of dress.
V Neck-Line Nerf '
A deep and rather narrow V
neckline is of course for newer.
and this is sometimes high at the
basic and sometimes Vieheped
there. There is the same tendency
on the part of dreaamekars to
make neck: that are rather high
at the front quite low at the back.
and those that. are low at the front
“my high at the hack.
Sleevelesanesa for evening
seem to remain the conservative.
smart choice—or if you will not
go sleeveless you may wear sleeves
that are actually long and closely
fitted. Sleeves of this sort appear
once in a while in a metallic lace
frock or one of the heavily beaded
chiller: frocks run with metal
threads.
Brocaded Chilton Used,
Various sorts of velvet brocaded
chidon are looming large in the
realm of evening frocks. Of
course there is nothing positively
new about them. but they are not
quite like any fabrics oi the sort
we have had before. The fondness
tor large figures that expressed
itself in the endless printed crepe-
'of the summer seems to have been
carried over to these brocadea. for
many of them show large figures
and scrolls in contrasting colors.
And these rich materials lend
themselves well to the present sil-
houette. slightly daring. and with
a tendency to show closer confer-rm
ity to the figure than was the case
with the sheath frocks of a year
:80.
Sometimes the richest oi bro-
cadee are further embellished with
beading. metallic embroidery, lace
and other ornamentation. but the
most pleasing. elects are gained
when it is used alone or in com-
bination with 'plain chiffon to
madtch the background of the bro-
ca e.
These new broader. like the
metal laces and other new fabrics
of the season are so expensive that
someone has said the fashion for
short. fairly scant skirts will have
to continue. The only thing that
makes it possible to have clothes
at all with fabrics so precioua‘ie
that we need only a very tow
yards to make a dress.
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