A‘ j v_! Mottled colored bandanna as an attractive and effectual head covering for beach wear , By Edith M. Burtis WHILE it is still playtime, and save for some unanticipated need wom- en's wardrobes are supposedly complete, new modes for late summer and early autumn mustrcome in for a due share of attention and discussion. It is said that a certain dressiness is expressed in a sufficient number of new modes to substantiate the report that fashion is trying to wean us away from the severe simplicity we have so long enjoyed. This is a reasonable conten- tion. since the trend in simplicity of line and detail has certainly held away for a longer period of time than any style tendency of the past. . Dressiness need not mean elaborate- ness or overornamentation, but it does mean greater intricacy of cut and more attention to trimming details. It means more femininity, so to speak, which in turn means more shapeliness to natural figure lines, and this last feature must surely mean—for it cannot be acquired otherwise—more careful attention to corsets and allied garments. 0n the other hand, the man-tailored suits and coats presented last spring will, without 'question, carry over into the autumn and winter, so it is a fair, guess to predict that two distinct modes, the dressy feminine style and the strictly tailored mannish style, will both prevail. This situation will make for a pleas- ing and long-absent variety in women‘s ‘ apparel, a diversity tlmt is delightfully refreshing and surely welcome after so long a vogue of severe simplicity. If woman’s changing moods are a charm that attracts and pleases, then surely an etpression of this charm by a diversi. tied wardrobe is opportune. RIVALRY, it may be said, seems to exist‘ between the front flare and the back flare, for there are authentic sponsors of both' of these silhouettes, and apparently, without much ado, the side flare or ripple is gaining in favor. So it is not unlikely that, as the season advances, the flare best suited to our particular requirements be accepted with assurance that such attire is smart and fashionably in vogue. In this variation of the flare placement there is always the desirable element of - individuality; the possibility of accept- , ing that which is best for that expres- sion of personality that makes the modern well-dressed woman such a joy to look at; that gives her an advantage not enjoyed by women when there were but tvio alternatives—accept the mode as presented and be one of an army of duplicate fashion figures, or revolt and be a target virtually for scornful glances, rude wit and general ostracism. ROM all indications it is safe to pre- dict that for autumn the ensemble gains in importance and finds expres- sion in all manner of apparel, for day. time and evening wear, and for the more intimate clothes in the negligee and lingeris class. The ensemble finds expression also in footwear, millinery and the accessories of dress. a delightful feature through . .u: the ”ring and summer. This is well. you will agree, since this v02“ h” brought about line appreciation of color matching and color harmony. This newly acquired appreciation of color and understanding of how to use color in dress may be termed an almost priceless bit of knowledge, since by .no other means can attire be made so in- teresting and satisfying to both wearer and observer. It is the influence that clothes have upon the emotions quite as much as their value as useful and necessary gar- ments to meet the protective require- ments of the senses that gives to ap- parel the important considerationwof thinking people. It is not enough that modern woman should be clothed against the elements: she must be dressed in the fashion and yet express her individuality by her sp- parel. Speaking of being clothed against the elements prompts the thought to voice here a regret that so many girls and not a ‘few, women have -this season dis- carded necessary npparel to a point of danger. They surely do not understand danger to health, morals and that more appealing quality, beauty. Disregarding the prosaic arguments of health and morals, let's make an ap- peal for more adequate clothing to con- ceal unsymmetrical lines of figures and to avoid a sort of veiled nudity that has anyplace in art or artistic dress. An ideal motor or travel hat made of coin-spotted ribbon. devoid of trimming and needing none 0 O . O s 1 l , A One does not have to be a morsllsI to deplore certain midsummer style trends, like the discarding of under- garments and that of rolled stockings. It is enough to be an advocate of beauty to register a protest. But life and all its variations is ever like a pendulum and summer will soon give way to cooler weather. In change there is always more than variety and a'release from monotony; there is prog- ress, and, this ris as true of the in- fluence of fashion as it is in any other element of modern life. MIDSUMMER finds as enjoying some very practical old friends in the fashion family, things like the trousers sport suit of linen, made with a sleeve- less coat that insures much snore com- fort in many sport activities than the suit with a sleeved-cost can guarantee. Hats, both large and small, that are in- tended for sport and travel wear, are many of them almost or quite devoid of trimmings; as, for instance, the small travel hat made of ribbon and the large horsehair-shape velvet-bound and banded and trimmed only by one single ivory gsrdenla placed at the center front of the velvet crown band. Blouses made of jersey elotli, like knitted sweaters. are being worn with separate skirts that are just as~likely to be of crepe de chine and finely platted. But this vogue, like large hats and small hats sparingly trimmed, will in all . Color Entering More Largely Into W omen’s Apparel Adds to Its Appeal and Greatly Enhances Its Charm .Velvet bound and handed with one single ivory gardenia as trimming is this attractive hat of horsehair Photos by Joel read: .This blouse of jersey and the cluster-plaited skirt of crepe . de chine make an attractive sport suit probability find a place this autumn among the everyday clothes of. many girls and women. THAT most comfortable of cold- weather negligees the corduroy bath or lounging robe is in many instances to be enhanced by embroidery, if fash- ion reports are‘ right and early models recently seen receive the approval ,of those who know the value of a corduroy robe in the wardrobe of women gener- ally. Sleeves in some of the new models are roomy, and shorter than wrist length. graduating between a three. quarters and elbow length, and collars an.» a: . ‘W‘t: ~1- A knicker sport suit of heavy linen, the sleeveless coat add- ing comfort to the practicabil- ity of the outfit are long and of the wide revers order, V and these with the sleeves and patch pockets are the parts enhanced by em- broidery. Tweeds in small patterns like dice motifs and herringbone weaves are being stressed as favored materials for autumn topcoats and roundabout suits. Broad- cloth, too, is steadily gaining in favor, but of course for more formal and dressy costs and suits. Many mannisb clothes in plain and fancy mixturesr such as have already been seen, are being quite extensively utilized for autmun coats ofsevere simplicity; strictly man- tailored‘and corduroy and velveteen are being employed for slip-on coats more feminine in cut and finish, since these are often on smock or kimono shaping and are fur-trimmed. By the length of earrings may their! modishness be determined is lthe latest Parisian decree on costume jewelry, some recent imports being of a length that permit the long drops to pose low on the neck, to the very base, in fact, or even lower by an inch or more below the choker necklace. One set of ear- rings of gold beads alternated with begels just seen are more than seven inches in length. Color continues to find expression in milady’s handkerchief. Vividly colored handkerchiefs of linen, voile and gears gette are among the novelties in acces- sories for fall. Flower motifs and geometric designs vie with stripes and checks as borders or as a pattern for the entire handkerchief. and a blocked effect in white and a color decorated with motifs in the color is registered as an example of this mode. Handkerchiefs of brilliantly colored georgette are lace bordered, an ecru or colored silk lace matching the material being employed. In all handkerchiefs, other than the strictly utilitarian and regulation white necessity article, there is the very defl- 'nite evidence of -color as a means of completing the ensemble effect of the costume. ‘ The bolero jacket is seen in many of the new autumn clothes, as a detail of dresses, and as the jacket of smart semi. dressy suits. For youthfulnesspf ap. pearance, this mode is particularly stressed. Copyright by Public Leda" Oomw