, By Edith M. Burtis
IDSUMMER finds us enjoying a
more varied mode than has been
seen in a long time, and the underlying
cause of it is unquestionably the flare.
Only with such a trend as the flare
could there possibly be effected the diver-
' sity of design and silhouette now being
noted, and as an aid to youthful ap-
pearance, the flare must surely receive
the laurel.
Whether the flare be placed at the
sides or at the front, the flare in some
,form is the thing fashionable at the
moment; and it continues as the most
dominating detail of early autumn
modes, though the position of the flare
will, in many instances, be changed to
the back.
Paris, in the midseason showings of.
new fashions, stresses this back posi-
tion of the flare, and there is no denying
the :martness of such a silhouette.
However, for the conservative, there
is still another flare treatment that is
most pleasing. This is a four-flare, at
each side of front and back, attained by
groups of shirred sections set.in at hip
length and done usually on a frock of
georgette, voile, or similar sheer and
soft fabric.
Such a dress recently seen was of
georgctte, the lower edge weighed by
no fewer than seven rows of gathered
ribbon, each narrow ruflie turned upward
instead of downward as is the usual
treatment. This flounce trimming sci-ved
admirably to sustain the flare and pro-
vided the only necessary trimming save
for a beaded necklace effect with waist-
length pendant finish that trimmed the
plain V-opencd neck. The frock WI:
sleeveless.
THE question of sleeves or no sleeves
that earlier in the season caused no
little anxiety and consternation is no
longer so vital a subject, since it is now-
understood that daytime and round-
about frocks, also niany intended for
sport wear, must have sleeves to he
modish, and wrist length at that, while
for the dressy frock and evening wear
all semblances of sleeves are far and
few between.
Sleeves, quite definitely constructed
but of two materials, since the trimming
fabric is used for elbow-deep cuffs, are
noticeable on a French frock of satin,
which material, be it noted, is prepared,
in point of beauty and its adaptability
to the oncoming mode, to gain favor and
prestige as summer gives place to
autumn.
The particular frock of black satin
trimmed with white shows by its three-
tier skirt of plaited flounces that the
long-popular straight-line silhouette, if
retained at all, is no longer the severe
unbroken straightness it once was, but
is now expressed by subtle means that
are more kindly, since defects of WM
An interesting method iof producing the
modish flare is noted in the groups of
. shirred panels of this dress of georgette
For the tailored suit
and low rolling-
collar blouse
nothing has come
to take the place of
the small close-fitting,
sparingly trimmed
hat
tion and pose may thus {
be tempered or com-
pletely concealed.
In tailor-made
dresses and in the suit
modes a happy com-
promise between the _
unbroken straight line and the pro-
nounced flare is attained by plaits either
stitched or pressed, a favored treatment
being a plaited panel at front or back,
or at both.
Skirt lengths remain reasonably short
as the natural outcome of flare and full-
ness, for if length were added to the
present fullness of skirts there would
immediately be destroyed the smart,
trim youthfulness of appearance that is
so in keeping with present-day manners
and activities of women.
There may be dignity and stateliness
in long skirts, but today young and old
alike want to be distinguished by their
agility and pep-and long skirts are no
means to this end.
MODES in footwear keep pace with the
mode in dress lengths, or it may
be that footwear has forced an ap-
preciative recognition from desingers of
apparel; but whichever it is, woman is
the gainer, since both in hosiery and in
shoes there never has been a more com-
plete and satisfying array to choose
frt'irxiil as the present.
ere is no‘doubt about the i
tance of footwear. The preeentnhm
pleteness of attire so much discussed and
admired is, without question, largely
achieved by the aid of a splendid array
of hosiery and shoes.
For general roundabout wear, par-
ticularly with the tailored suit and
blouse, nothing in millinery has come
to surpass the sparingly trimmed small
hat. But the vogue of the large int
Will apparently not die out with the
coming of autumn, and in this group of
large and semllarge hats, velvet has a
conspicuous. part.
'Incongruous as it may seem, the velvet
hat is already here as a summer mode in
millinery. Yet when you come to weigh
the matter and realize anew the charm-
ing and rich effect of velvet with lace
and sheer, udt fabric, and, also the beau-
tiful contrast in color between dark
colored velvet; and delicately colored
sheer materials, you appreciate the com-
binations. and you know that there is
but another delightful inconsistency of
Plaitcd flouncing lapped across '
the front and a plaited scarf
that hangs loosely from the
left shoulder are well effected
in this dress of satin
fashion and a mode that you are glad to
accept and do without question.
Where the hat is of a lacy trans.
parent straw or straw braid, either
masses of flowers or huge bows of velvet
are much in evidence. Many lovely
midsummer hats are trimmed with a
combination of velvet and flowers that
Whether Placed at #1851363 or at the Front, the
Flare Is the Fashionch Thing-of the Moment,
.. 3 Due 'to Its Smart Silhwctte and the Youthful .
" i Effect on the W carer ' ‘ I
This panel-plaited skirt, waistcoat front and
a
semiblouse jacket constitute a new Parisian
version of the semitailored suit for autumn
result in a richness of effect altogether
satisfying. .
As has been said, modes are many:
diversity is the keynote, and by the aid
of the flare and its wonderful adapt-
ability, a delightful and remarkable
variety of details of design and silhouette
is enjoyed, while yet conforming to a
certain very satisfactory mode, a mode
that can well be applied to all types and
ages of women.
This results in that most desirable
and desired situation that there i5 110
obviously apparent difference of ap-
pearance between the young and the not
so young; that while dignity is not
stressed it is not entirely disregarded;
and that, though youthfulness is the
thing desired, it no longer is attained by
the former severe simplicity that so
often destrowd its desired end and re-
vealed the defects of the youthful figure
quite as much as it showed up the bad
figure lines of the mature.
Hints of F as'hion's Trend
IDER skirts is the inevitable result
of the flare movement, and not alone
in the frilly, flufl’y frocks for fall, but
in the tailor-made dresses and suits
will there be noted a decided increase
in the widths of skirts, which width,
however. is often not so perceptible, ex-
cept when the figure is in motion.
Braiding and small details of embroid-
ery are trimming details noted on semi-
tailored frocks, and of particular interest
is the use of braid on georgette that
gives a pleasing tailor finish and ap—
pearance of substantiality.
Necklinea take on a change as early
examples of the fall modes in dresses
are noted. There is a decided trend to«
ward vestce and color efl’ecta that have
a very flattering efl'cct upon the wearer
since they make possible the use of white
and of lingerie details that are far less
trying to the average woman than the
untrimmed neck finishes we have been
wearing.
The envelope pockdtbook of fine leather
lined with ribbon and others made on-
tirely of ribbon are made auficicutly
large to be useful and at the some time
add to the costume a color note that is
most fetching.
Turn-hack cuffs, of a width that does
not entirely conceal the shapeliness of
the wrist, and, therefore, not clumsy or
u"tilinly are the foremost detail in glove
modes for autmu'n. Embroidery and
rather elaborate black stitching add to
the color value and decorative feature
of gloves as an accessory to the smart
costume.
\
In costume jewelry the two-strand
choker is the newest‘ in short necklaces,
and usually the strands that constitute
such a necklace are in twa colors. A
single strand of small pearls finished
with a bowknot of rhinestones and a
tassel of the pearls and rhinestones is
another new type of choker necklace,
and a scarf necklace of tinted pearls,
the ends finished with large pearl drops,
is still another accessory of the smart
toilette. Pastel-tinted bead necklaces
in many colors make it possible for
every type of woman to select the colon
moat becoming.
The use of artificial flowers as the
analfcminineflnichtoacoetumain-
Photos from Eadsl I Harbor!
Feathers, instead of fur, trim many of the
coats of silk that have come recently from
Paris, andthis is an example of the mode
creases in favor. Not the least noticeable
is the use of flowers as the neck finish, in
Place of a collar or ruff, for midsummer
evening wraps, a mode that should be ac-
ceptable until late into the autumn.
Flowers as shoulder straps on semi-
formal frocks are another treatment
more unusual than the shoulder decora-
tion of one single flower, or the older
established use of flowers as a girdle
ornament.
Cretonne as a wrap material is in
evidence for the bathing cape and the
beach or boardwalk topcoat, the latter
lined with flannel as often as with silk.
Bathing suits are likewise seen de-
veloped in cretonne in the gayest possi-
ble 'colorings, and'here again is regis—
tered the popularity of the ensemble idea
since often 'the suit is accompanied by
a matching coat or cape. Other bath-
ing costumes are of colorful wool jersey
trimmed with the same pattern in cro-
tonne of which the bathing wrap is
made.
The trouser lounging costume and the
trouser negligeo seem 'here to stay in-
definitely since new ideas in then once-
tivc garments are being presented with
startling frequency. One suit of green
satin recently noted had trousers cut
in. scallops at the bottom that were
trimmed with silk hall trimming, the
same as outlined the short Spanish trou-
badour jacket that was also decorated
with wide bands of embroidery, which.
like the hall trimming, was in varied
co ors.
i
l
__
‘Look for a more general acceptance of
the brown colors in satin footwear and
a greater elimination of black satin, and
for the greater acceptance of the open
pump or opera clipper in place of the
fancifully strapped models so long
popular. Heels, too, are likely to be less
high in dressy footwear as the season
:dvanclzfiince the smart '01:!an
ave a y taken to waiting I modified
French heel.
cm» as and but.» am
E's
. .
Norwalk Chronicler