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Two - Piece Suits and Ensembles
French dressmakers have not
shown a single two-piece suit
in their spring collections. Never.
since the "shirt waist" developed
as an article of apparel for women
and consequently brought into ex-
istence the two-piece suit. some
time in the nineties of the last cen-
turF- has such a state of affairs
3 NUMBER of the celebrated
A few years ago the two-piece
suit for women seemed as well
established as the conventional
1hree~piece suit for men There
seemed about as much chance for
one to pass out as for the other.
And, of course. the two—piece suit
has not passed—~not by a very long
chance. The situation only is that
among certain French dressmskers
there seems to be little use for it.
The ensemble costume has so com-
piotely taken possession of the
fancy of women—French women
especially—that there really is good
reason for this attitude.
Light Woolens Used
On the other hand. several of the
smartest of French dressmskers
and tailors have made the two-
piece suit quite important. Cyber.
has many of them. consisting of
short. straight little skirts and boy-V
ish jackets of hip length. some of
them belted and others left as
straight as a man's sack cost. To
:0 with them there Rife neat little
overblouses that fit tight around the
hips. The suits are of the lighter
woolens~more pliant than the
English twecds that seem to have
become suddenly quite strbng in
Paris in some quarters. Cyber
chooses rather soft poplins and fine
twins
Almost always the two-piece suit
is hip length. the longer coats or
jackets being reserved for the
ensemble costume. Madeleine et
Madeleine-Anna have been showing
little suits consisting of hip-length
jackets with Peter Pan collars worn
with flowing ties and pleated skirts.
College-Boy Model
I‘J'Rossen. the tailor in Paris
whose name is most often quoted in
connection with the strict mllleur.
shows knee-length jackets as well
as the hip-length sort. The prefer-
ence for the hip length is undoubt-
edly due to the fact that this con-
forms to the proportions of the
masculine contour. There are little
belted suit Jackets closely resem-
bling the masculine Norfolk. and
several smart tailors have been
making tailored suits consisting of
bluf‘lt cloth Jackets over rklrta or knickerbockcr suit affected by the
dark gray firmed cloth. taking in- American college boy. This self-
spiration from the afternoon suit of suns knicker suit when worn by
the fashionable Frenchman. Inter- American tourists L." summer
rstingiy enough O'Roseen has tsken‘ caused no little :inlli"ln0‘iil and
for the model of one of his most polite smiles—now m.- leading
successful tailored suits, the loose fiench women's tmlor llllc fc-unJ iii
“l i “4»
i Milli.
iI i‘fl It
L
At kit; m velveteen coat
worn with white crepe dc chine
[rock with brown belt. At right,
ensemble of white. and platelet!
kosha. The frock, of white, a
trimmed with the plaid. and the
coat, or pm i trimmed with
sch-its sour ‘ .
. mmiurcrl.
ulllilldill.‘|9li
i "J\
BY"
W. 1925 bym Melon
'-'='i;::.
‘Jfl
it inspiration for one of his most
successful products.
Martial (>1 Armsnd's contribution
in the tailored suit situation is a
combination of a short flat jacket
of solid color worn with a shunt
rather scant plfiit'd skirt. and Jenr
T-langin has given his customer
trim gentlemanly tnilr-rt-d suits .w'
tobacco-colored rough wool and
light gray,
Straight Tailored Models
Meantime hero in America the
uoxnan who has mndc up her mind
on Wearing a lu’u-l‘it‘i‘c suit for
spring is not without interesting
model.- to select from. l'robnbh' the
strictly tailored sre’the smartest.
for the more ornate treatment bct-
t-u- accords with the long-coated
rust-milk: costume. The tailored
type that seems to have found high-
(5! iaxor with the well-dressed
American girl this spring is really
mnnnls‘ii as won as man-tuilored.
Na disguisxnc or ornamenting the
nut. noicliml collrir or the straight.
close-fitting slceves. The skirt that
Is bnlh comfortable and dccidedlv
smart follows the rule of the spring
that all fullness must be concealed.
in this case the trick is turned bv
the well-known box niest at the
trout. Inverted box pleats at the
side are soon in some of the new
lailni‘ed suits—the rule being appar-
ently that the hack must at all costs
lie left perfectly plain and scant.
No Pull It Back
Scant and flat the backs‘of these
suits remain. but with clever shap-
ing and the advantage of the front
or side box pleats there is none of
that ugly tendency to draw same
the back that was so usual 3 season
or so ago. \i'hat is more. the Ameri -
can tailors and dressmakers have
a!
HE modern non-drip candle is
a real joy. and it would
surely-have given happiness
to our greet grandmothers. For
in the old days dripping candles
were a real trouble—when candles
supplied the only light. Just sup-
pose ail the electric light bulbs in the
house took to greening tears of
grease every time s draft passed
over them!
Even for the modern house-
keeper the non-drip candle is a
boon. For candle was is none too
easy to wash from table linen—-
and the table is the one spot
where most of us persist in using
candles.
Candles should always be firmly
fitted into the candlestieks that
hold them. The best wsy’to do
this is to dip the end of the candle
l
”EX“: 1.
- 1221‘“:
learned a trick from the French—-
that it is better to give it little too
much room across the back than
too little. and in ihn rcad}'~mnd»:
suits or this Sli‘li‘-On }UU “ill limi-
ns you perhaps did not last season—-
that through generuils scams or
liberal lvox plcats ilure is no chance
of skimpinces. And rcnlly the flat.
straight silhouette rec-ms much
straighter and flatter when there is
enough, and just enough. material,
We Like Stripes
“'e Americans secm to share with
the British :1 considi-ral‘lo fondness
for striped cloth. 'i‘hc r‘rcnch. you
know. do not. if you like that sort
of thing. why not choose a striped
woolen material for your spring
suit? if you have no appetite for
the more striking stripes. select one
that combines harmonizing tones.
henna. rust and yellow.
The mannish tailored suit makes
stricter demands upri the wearer
than ever before. it demands ab-
: YOUR CKNDLES ‘
be kept separately wrapped inlet the Jewelry counter.
waxed paper. if they are laid
away. to keep them from sticking
to each other.
Candles can be cleaned simply
by dipping them for their full
length in hot water. Surface dust
will come oi! with the little wax
that pelts'ofl the outside in this
way. Also the gloss of the wax
will,be restored, and finger marks
will disappear.
Csndles‘csn now be bought in
so many good colors that it is not
dimouit to and those to harmonize
with any color scheme. Black
candles have come in for en es-
peasl Vogue, and they are espe~
cieily
Italian candle holders of painted
wood and plaster.
effective in some of the
For the table. white candies
into very hot water and then force ' are always a good choice. sl-
it into the candlestick. “’bn the
the socket.
Remember that candles melt
slightly in an overheated room.
Therefore keep those not in use
in s cool place.
th u I: sometimes when a. special
softened was hardens it sticks to colon-seen
else is desired. candles of
blue. rose or yellow ere sustain.-
There.sre interesting snd eii'ee-
Also. “10' should tire orn'unents for the spring hat
i ning frock.
At ldf. nary blur. tu'iJl made into
a doublobrcastrd iollorcd suit of the
n-gulation sort that persists from
year to year. ..\'c.rt 1", Mac ottoman
nil.- suit. Therc is a gauge!"
blouse m the some shade trimmed
with loads of Mr Then a
black coat 'll‘OVn with a prinird crcpc
dc chinc flock, in Mark, 101 and MN.
The licm of the frock is o! the coat
matcn‘al. and the coat is lined with
thv prinird crrpt'. Next counts 0
lirr-d sport suit iur‘th i'l’irtrh‘d picnic
in jacket and skirt. And at right, a
l'fllli,‘(‘ o! li'ofrs coat in green trons
m’ri' a i‘rrpr (ll‘ chine frock of the
9611'.
S'll’lt‘ 00"".
stemlousness in the selection of ne-
cessaries. Time “11!. ."00‘ know.
when Miss Fluff)” Ruffle-t might
wear n strictly tailored two-piece
suit with lilllows of lrish lacs trim-
min; the jahot or frill in the front.
worn when: u turkey wears his
gobble.
A dainty hand-embroidrrul 1nd
lace-trimmed collar might. i~e -lsid
over the collar of the suit. There
was a flowing chiffon Veil. despite
the severely mannish sailor straw
hat. set above an elaborately waved
pompadour. and there were a num-
ber of elaborate and scintillating
hat pins. Possibly a Jeweled chsin
\i-rls worn outside the coat tucked
in at the front Where the waist was
tucked into the belt. You may be
old enough yourself to recall the
picture. -
Msnnish Accessories
lint now! The mannish suit calls
for u mannish shirt. :1 mannisb hat.
«39
They are
not new—for We had pins and
daggers for our hats a couple of
seasons sgo. But they‘are better
then ever in design and color.
There are some that sre in the
some in the form of flat pins. All
colors. all shapes, to be had for
the asking. and paying.
Alf interesting way of using
artificial flowers to trim the frock
is shown in some of the new eve-
Smail flowers are
taken —— for instance, pinkish-
msuve lilacs. in which ash new
Then the dressmaker insps out s
design on the frock—~perheps s
line from one shoulder to the op.
posits hip, curving and drooping.
or an irregulsr splash down the
then fsstened os. notes they-ere.
but each little dowel-ct separately
to work out the design. and seek
:heid in plsoe by-s sizable rhine-
‘Stone . The whole elsegis
one of glistening loveliness;
eret is perhaps half-an inch across;
side of the shirt. The flowers are
form of dangling colored stones.-
I
lust of striped woolen material in
hound, rust and Wear.
a mannish haircut. in... . .
mannish shirt ha: o in
high in front “101
cravat. A {-1711} sill: ..- \‘1
is all that out"! ., 1. , = z.
Uf further net-T: mwrrii :
The inn: ll‘.la.".!.l‘i. . -
ilC'VPl' part of a in. .t: .
it is rather lilo {mat u, -
of the new cnsrnzlvlcs ’li'
the prince of “1231;: ‘.:..~ _
now to a coat i'r‘ir lit-me? it 3 vi
become as generalix- as.“ .w -_ -
that name as, 1- as in; in" '
noon coat for luv: u '
of his royal :.
Print-c- H.“ \\"il¢\
ago. F’T ll‘u‘ '
know what it.
.ll' vii" ifiL" i'li
hfl'l oli',‘ .'l .
Prince Ali-ex" t~ ,
Somelln.“ 1}», ~23!
after the przna. ~ .-
rr-gulation z-€\‘e‘.—e:gi'.ti..~
breasted mar:r.i.~'.: *1 ' .
sirai’ghtline (require {V w:
l-ulh nizuli- n’.‘ lucid (I > :w
mnnnish ilol‘l. ll‘:
greater heat than Y
to contemplatr .‘I’r
suited to must Ar:
the cloth coat uni: : . _
frock of crept: fir (I'.;'~'- r- c
ring
lii'.:l.‘
gihing 0' that sort ‘trzv
Persian influen ;c
Amos: the ..
called. “inf; "n
this spring
strict . 1'
32:0 mains-z
them e4 . Il‘. i . -
ry-Uurv. '.»
Coats Loin: .
low, :Ail‘nitb ,
the siren.- <':r :1
urisi
Y‘nrzx Y
:irrssnxakcz's
fashion tor i~"i'>:ln—
mulch 4hr-
;-lnci of :‘:,
caa' timzc .iv:
ally h-nc
(ruck (3"i’f 2""
tine id": '
t'ir‘ic E‘i-u»
Anti -‘,:_: '2‘ r
insi'ad vf .1 2 «Is (Ii "
over .i Emmi: if.7.‘~‘v‘l s21". T.‘
(wcr a wt’wslllr‘n' “:I “1:1- .~ . "
lion of the v.0?“ 'J.(‘ To"? ‘ .
twat rrt‘ "vlai‘n riw'
lli‘ :1“"~l 5:,“ ‘A'il‘
Liam. .YA'I. .’ li‘."
“my ft '1 -.~*‘ ih- un’
‘.;, 1‘ f 321 “Ref: 1‘
Next-The Spring Wraz.
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Norwalk Chronicler