Pleat straw trimmed with pink
roses. The brim is faced with blue
and there is a blue silk bag to
match, flower Manned.
EFORE winter had omcially be-
gun certain things we;e settled
regarding the fashion (or hats
next spring, 011' the eighteenth of
December Lewis of Paris had his
first spring showing—and there and
then it became apparent to many
that the peaked crown or trimming
to carry out the peaked idea was to
be retained for spring. There was
a. little question about this. espe-
cially on this side of the Atlantic.
where the peaked hat when first in-
troduced seemed almost as unbe-
coming as had the high, square-
crowned hat a. few'months earlier;
This harsh judgment seems to have
been sottened. Is it because the ex—
‘tromes have been modified or be-
cause we have simply grown accul-
tomed to the peak?
Trimming at Top
So the rule {or the making of
spring millinery seems to be to do
something to the top of the hat——
either to pinch it so as to give it a
ridge or point at the top or to place
your trimming, bow of ribbon, flow-
ers. feathers. at the apex.
So far as Lewis is concerned.
Clown’s hot of block
satin. with claret” We
ming.
there is no other place to blurs. but.
Here and there in the collections at
bats tor spring you may be able to
find side trimming and even trim-
ming drooping down over the.cheek.
but this will be the exception.
In more ways than one flowers
hold a very high place in the mil-
linery planned tor spring.
Already the shop windows have
made familiar the little felt hats At left, black straw with eelvet
trimmed only with bunches of flow- rosette, and at right, cloth of gold
are at the top. Two large flowers turban with" gilded feather trimming
placed back to back at the apex are at side.
considered smart. though the eflect
is rather surprising until you are
used to it. A bird's bead PM
right in the center of the high
crown ot a hat is a trick original“
by Lewis this season. With the
Deal-red hat we have a new set of
names {or the shapes—among them
luster, jockey and clown.
Turban: for Choice
For the Woman who refuses to
wear a peak of any sortx the
turban is a good choice. and
turbans have never been smarter
than at the present time. Often
they are of the evening variety. but
street hats are al..o made up in the
turban shapes. Even they show’a
little influence of the hat that ends
in a point. for the drapery is often
drawn upward toward the centen.
down at the ears so as to form the
outline of a very broad A over the
taco. These turbans are usually
made of satin for day time. while
for evening cloth 0: gold is the,
chosen fabric. .
The word bonnet may before long
be revived in the millinery world.
This is interesting since for so
many years no one not speaking
facetiously has meant anything but
.an infant’s head covering by this
old-time word. But for the sunny
winter resorts both in France and
America the French mediates have
been making small. close-fitting
satin hats that they call bonnets.
. Poke: Survive
In spite of the general house-
Belo‘o. Large shape of violet hair
with huge pink carnation: on and
under: the brim.
Hi? ~ éiili‘iiii
1
:iii“
- The tepghot is of block satin em-
broidered with white china beads.
At right, hat of black satin, with
soar] to match, trimmed with pearl
emu. At 36.". brown satin Hat
with bonds of georgetto in
blond tones, with a gold
brocade' mm bow.
Yellow felt sport hat with black
patent. leather quill. The shoe
matches, to yellow suede, trimmed
with black patent leather.
cleaning process that has recently
taken place in the realm of mil-
linsry with the scrapping of any
number of shapes, pokes have sur—
vived.
As we see them now they are
very picturesque ailsirs. with high
crowns and wide at the sides. with
scarcely any brim at the back. or
an upturned brim at the back. They.
are especially interesting when
made of straw.
‘The New Names
And now we have quite a new
list of words to use in connection
with the new shapes. The postillon
and Glrondin shapes have been for-
gotten. but we talk of clown's and
l r ’
p ..
A: left, black ottmn turned up
at side with green straw meat.
Jester’s. tool's and the fisher-man's
raps. It may be that the original
inspiration of peeked headgear was
derived from warriors' coats of
arms. There have been casque-
ehsped hats for several seasons.
Now one of the most talked about
of Suzanne Talbot’s new creations
is a. hat shaped like an antique
Grecian helmet. with a roll of ribbon
across the crown from one ear to
the other. Other similar hats are
described as being shaped like crue-
aders' helmets.
As usual all these new terms are
used rather indiscriminately. The
jockey cap. apparently. is usually
one of the pointed sort with a ridge
across the crown from front to book.
To be thoroughly informed on the
subject or the new hot- you must
also be able to ‘spot at light a
"Pierrot top-kno ." and a Tynoleen
cap. -
New Flowers
Among the new clotted, peeked
hats Leontine's new shape has been
described as exactly like the‘Jung-
trau in outline.
Flowers still bloom 0n the shoul-
ders at women in evening dress. as
well as plentifully at the crest of
their new peaked hats. Quite the
newest flowers for evening are up.
ped with brilliants, so that they look
as it they had been touched with a
fairy’s diamond wand.
At some of the millinery shops
you may buy your courage bouquets
with your bets and you really
should have 0 e to match every
hat in your cmcction‘. There are
my,
‘73?
i
c- in
I
I!
new pointed shapes trimmed with
bunches of lovely Parma violets.
right at the apex. and with these go
bunches of Parma violets for the
corsage. Some of the milliners sell
these hats with a narrow ribbon
running from the hat to the corsage
bouquet. though the ribbon of
course need not be worn.
And now we hear that some
women are substituting real flowm-s
for artificial—a fashion that ought
to bring thrills of joy to the florists.
Speaking of bat and boutonniere
sets at the milliners—-wns there ever
a time when milliners showed so
many "sets" as they do now? One
of the leaders in matters millinery
in this country is showing Charmin:
panama and lcghorn hats trimmed
with scarfs, with separate scarfs to
match. One often find-.- a bag or
envelope purse to go with one's but
«especially if it is of one oi.“ the new
tapestry or embroidered fabrics.
Belts and hats to match are some-
thing of a. novelty. For Southern
wear there are hats and paranoia to
match. The idea is good whatever
is the second number of the set. for
it tends to give unity and “ensem-
ble" to the costume.
Snails for good Luok
Probably one of the last places in
the world you would ever hope to
see a snail crawling would be on a
woman's hat. Yet it you keep your
eyes open you will perhaps see one
d these snails before the season is
out. Only be reassured—Ahoy are
lovelygolden snails made of braid.
Madame Rognier. I believe is re.
sponsible for these snails—“escar-
gots" they call them in France. You
know the snail is an emblem of! good
luck—and as sure to bring good luck
Bi qu‘.
braid.
1-, the wearer as the peacock feather
or opal is to bring the other sort.
Doubtless this has had something to
do with the fact that well-dressed
women have bought these snail-
trimmnd hats.
Marthe llegnier places‘these snails
on jm'kcy caps. with a' ridge extend-
imz from [rent to back. W11") the
snails seemingly go crawling from
their golden shells down toward the
cars. '
Trimmings
Ostrich shaving brushes. 'glsu
bracelets interwoven with belting
ribbon. fountains of narrow ribbon
at the peak. “guinea fowl which,"
glycerined ostrich fancies. Brightv
colored pompous. a pair ot'ls'cquered
red' rbses.‘ a tiny mu llllod -wlth
flowers of many colors on an eve-
nxng hat, coque and ‘MIIOWII'Y
feathers. tortoise shell ‘pln' inlaid
with rhinestonusmsil leather flow-
ers. tassels made of . strands of
glycerined ostrich with strands of
silk. a silver ornament {gr the front
of the hat with landscape shown in
silhouette. sprays o! ivy'leeves. ap-
pliqued leather in the shape of tiny
orange trees. luminous dowel-nth!
can be seen in the dark. loops and
bows of narrow straw braid. hand-
painted tsflets silk and ribbon:
in.
at left, straw and velvet
rombfnrrl in beige hat. A! 9107“.
narrow folds of black taffeta formed
into hot, finished with red and gold
;,_l.t
Nix , c
Norwalk Chronicler