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SAGACIOUB in
A» Paris hss designed a frock with
a. belt which can be worn at
the normal waistline. st the knee or
in Empire fashion. a. few inches be-
neath the armpits. The m rib-
bon girdle is simply run through
open-work embroidery at any one of
lhese three possible positions and
tlmily clamped. .
This is one way of answering the
nmot question of waist lengths. For
this is the question uppermost in the
minds of men and women vitally
mncorned in the making or design-
ing of clothes. and the thousands of
Showing the new long tight sleeve
and one p‘uflcd at the on”.
other women whose thoughts are oc-
«'asionltliy occupied with the ques-
tion of their own clothes.
The truth of the matter is that
no one really knows: No system of
nrognosticntion in matters of fashion
has been devised sufficiently accu-
rat" to make it possible for anyone
m do any more than give a. guess
.rmcerning the immediate future of
the waistline.
Waistline Can't Go Lower.
Om.- thing is safe to say—it can't
gm much lower without slipping off
ihn {rock entirely. It may remain
\ here it is. it may go back to nor-
mal. or it may go shove normal.
This possibility that it may go
shove normal seems to be the one
mm. offers most interesting specula-
tion on the part of many prominent
(muigners and style authorities.
'l‘lmre is much in the present mode
strongly reminiscent of the taéhions
of the Directoire and Empire period.
Straight, scant, clinging frocks.
soantest and fewest of petticoats.
rlose. classic line of hsir arrange-
ment, close-fitting hat, cloche or
poke shape, with alternates in the
shape of the posullon and newly in-
rrnrk designed in Paris has seps-
raln belt which. can be worn at nor-
mal «waistline. Empire line or at
Mr 'lmces. It is slipped through
(7an work nibroidercd and Iaetener’
with clamps.
Germain. b o
limes or no “meow”: ‘11::
dialing fdbrics. What more consis-
tent. now that. we have taken over
gamma: titan is and En:-
, sp t, than to take
his: waistline also? over the
ut it is always his! to an e
that fashion works logically «pm:
the Meta-y of fashion always re-
pests itself with perfect accuracy.
z“:Quits significant. however. is the
t tbst within a few weeks many
smartyoungwomen. hereualsoin
Paris, have frequently raised their
rm mmnel irrespective of the
aligning of dressmakers and fash-
At smart. resorts. here
and there. you my see the straight.
narrow tubular frocks that were
worn with low belt or with no belt
at all. now worn with the belt drawn
in a bit and placed a few inches
above normal. There really does
seemtobeansturslreectiononthe
part of women everywhere against
the low~plsced belt that completely
conceals the natural slender-noes of
the body.
Uncomtsd Figure Still the Vegas-
Of one thing be assured. Even
though we do come book to a. nor-
ml or above normal waistline, even
though close girdles are revised.
there is not the slightest lndimtlon
that close lacing will return or that
the new arrangement of the waist
will make the corseted figure any
more necessary.
The high waistline‘is something
that many of the designers have al-
ready‘plnyed with in designing eve-
ning frocks. Poi t was responsible
for many gowns gaped along scant
classical lines that would have been
quite in fashion in the days when
Napoleon Bonaparte was first Em-
peror. Premet has designed an eve:
ning frock with the highewnht caect
produced in front by the placing of
a. flounce in the position of ‘s. high
little apron.
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Above, at left, blue and white pbtd
frock with blue cost when“ with.
plaid and lined with chm kid, from
Charlotte. A: right. long coat of
satin with flare at bottom. ’
The question of skirt lengths is
one that comes into all clothes dis-
cussion nowadays, though neither
very long skirts nor very short
skirts offer much surprise. The fact
remains that very short skirts seem
to be preferred by French women
for evening to an extent that seems
to be surprising Americans abrow
this summer. Not long ago the rule
seemed to be that short skirts should
be worn for street and sport. longer
skirts for afternoon, and quite long
ones for evening. Now evening
frocks are shortest of all. At least
that is the dictum of French de-
signers.
What of sleeves?
Long 8loevee Are Coming.
Bare arms are still "with us, so
much so that many of us sigh to be
spared the sight of any more of
them. So the time seems propitious
for a. return of the well-covcfed arm.
at least for daytime. and French
dressmnkers are already. marking
with their favor sleeves that are both
tight and very long. Often the
close-fitting long sleeve comes well
’down over the palm of the hand.
making slender. long fingers seem
slenderer and more tapering than
ever.
at the cut! has of course the ten-
dency to make hands and wrists sp-
penr much smaller than when the
sleeveless frock is worn. Who knows
but that we may be about to adopt
a. fed for small hands? Surely the
enormous black signet ring worn by
many French women has the facul-r.
ty of making fingers look sienderer
and hands smaller.
About Bobbed Hair.
One hardly dares wax prophetic
on the subject of bobbed hair. It is
a subject- about which one cab very
easily arouse a. more less hosted
argument. There are still women
yho on having the: hair bobbed
now for the first time, quy con—
vinced that before long "no one will"
be left with long hair." These late
adherents of the sham eoixure seem
to be the most ardent supporter-sat
it. Womenwbo have not mm
this mode of hair arrangement seem
hopelessly dowdytotheee novices of
thebob. Itismorellkolytoboihe
woman who had her hair bobbed
some half dos-n years ago when it
was less usual who is now casting
about for some new way of decent.
ing her head. .
Word comes that quite a group of
very smart young women in Paris
have let their hair grow again—or
rather are letting it grow. But an.
neednotbelooksduponasth.
deathlmell of the bobbed fashion.
Uniformity in this nutter would be
highly uninteresting. These who
claim that within a. few years every
woman will be bobbed are Just as for
from the mar-less those other proph-
ets who announce that very soon no
smart women will—wear their hair in
this manner.
The Semlobobbsd.
Meantime much inmrut centers
around the women who. once bobbed.
are trying to get their hair to grow
again. These semi-bobbed ladies are
really the smart ones at the present
time, and among certain women it.
is as much the thing now to discuss
ways and means of providing for
hair that is at the awkward stage
of growing in. as it was some time
ego to discuss the relative merits of
the shingle and the bob. .
Some Pensions are twisting their
growing looks into a tiny knot st
the back of the bend instead of pin-
ning on hair to cover their den-
cienoy. ,Othens comb the hair
straight back and have it arranged
in small curls or ringlets at the
nape of the neck. where it is held
into position by a flat comb.
Seldom has the outlook for the
woman who revels in hats been more
promising than it is this year. The
millinsrs have contrived to bring
into fashion a. number of most in-
tcestlng historical shapes. so that
there is . picturesqueness and rich-
ness of association about the hats
that will be presented to us this
autumn that. we of this generation
have probably never known before.
French Make Hats High.
The French tendency is still to
make the hats very high, with the
The long sleevo with a punjrinuning adding inches to the al-
ready high shape. Of course this
will have to be somewhat modified
for the American face. French
women with more clearly our, fea-
tures, more definite profiles. can
wear these bats well, whereas most
American: find them rather trying.
Be prepared for a golden "gun
as far as hats are concerned. Much
of this gold will be of lather—strips
of gold leather like ribbon; fled
'arwndthecrownsotlnts.gold
leather facing! to hate and large
gold leather bows lined with colored
silk or ribbon. ’
Gilt leather purses will continu
to be smart. though cloth of gold
rum-W gym...
e the "pendent. Sometimes
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and short transparent skirt.
purses and shoes. Frocks will be
trimmed with gold leather and braid.
Oxfords of cloth of gold have al—
ready achieved’distinction in Paris.
where the tendency is to bubstitute
the laced oxford for strapped slip-
pers and sandal effects even for for-
mal afternoon wear. The French
woman has always had a. partlnlity
for , the high-heeled oxford; the
question is whether American women
-ssve for a few who take their lead
direct from Paris—will be eager to
adopt this type of footgear, which
undoubtedly does tend to make the
foot look' thick through the arch
and instep.
Next week—The on». w. Shall-
. Wear. I
Above, gold cloth oxford ties
and envelope purse for often
noon, worn with frock Mmmed
with gold braid. At right, high
M: of hattefs plush with
rounded arm.
WHITE SPORT SKIRTS.
White sport. skirts are in good
repute. and if you need one more
skirt for “country wear. by all means
choose a. white one.
One that. is especially smart is
made of ‘wbite crepe. edged st' the
bottom with a twoeinch 'band of
red kid. and then pleated.
GORDS FOR PENDANTS.‘
If you have an interesting pen-
dant you may be finding It difficult
to and the right cord to hang it on.
. 'phe phops now—son. e of them-
sell ornamental cords to can-y pen-
dents. They are silk, cords in
various colors. usually 'knotted in
an interesting way. often holding a
few simple beads in the color of
these
cords .are titted with ornamental
At left, muve chino» with. high waistline meat given by flounce
across front. Center, flesh satin and. silver lace with nomal waistline
At right, short straight gown of Chartreuse
velvet with crimson rose at side and Spanish lace scarf falling from back.
from or left hanging loamy.
ETERESTING NEW . SCARF‘S.
LOVELY scarf for the woman
.wearlng mourning is made of
heavy brussels net edged with
ostrich fringe.
Net. is used for many of tbe~sum~
mer courts. One is of black silk not.
heavily embroidered by machine in;
diflerent shsdesof red. blue. yellow
and green in»: Japanese landscape
denim. with willow trees. paged-s
and kimono-clad flgurds all over the
sum of the WW
'l‘beldeaofafursboulderorneck
scarf Worn with a chiflpmor georg-
ette frock is not new. The idea of
a figured crepe or chiflon scarf as
ofafurcoetlsnsw. Andnow
are fur coats for summer wear
with wide. soft. ecerfs of fur fas-
tened under the collars; thing at the
b
’1
High gold cloth turban for
rating at left. Above. grow-
,ig locks worn in tiny knot of
“rack or neck instead of pin-
ning false hair on.
Beauty and
‘ Middle Age.
EMEMBER. if you are sp-
R preaching—or have reached—-
mlddlelage, that the figure is
the index to your apparent age.
A woman of fifty with a. straight.
supple figure is for younger looking
than a. women twenty years her
junior who has n ~stocky. settled
38“”-
So. oh, you of middle age. concen-
trate on keeping your figure mode
eratoly slender and completely sup-
_, pie. \
If you have any time left over.
look after the wrinkles trying to
come on ‘your face. But remember
that wrinkles an far less of a. give-
away than the settled, too substan-
tial and can figure.
The Vogue. for
Brown and White
[ME was when a brown: sash
on a. sheer white frock would
have been consideredabsmd-s
impossible. - - .
Buteomeofthesmsrtestsummer
frocks of lingerie have sashes of
brown'ribbon. therearewhibs
mpg frocks sailed.
It must be admitted that this
comblnsflOn of me while is
decidedlysmart. Ittsslwusars-
lief to get away tho trit- can.
mutton of blue Wm“
in summer Brown muss
mmglongwayfromthermon
convenfloulcomblnsflon.
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Norwalk Chronicler