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IRST we did away with hat
F pins and now we are doing our
best to put the hair pin in the
list of antiquities. tit only for the
glass case of some museum. We
gave up the hat that balanced on
the top of our heads. kept in place
only by the aid of well stuck on
pins. and then the majority of
women—between seventy to ninety
per cent. authorities say—bobbed or
shingled their hair.
So now as far as our headdress is
concerned we dress as comfortably
and as sensibly as men.
“‘e may wear knickers. too. al—
mnst anywhere we wish. but our
skirts are so light and unobtrusive
that we find ourselves little the bet-
tor for the change. And uncom-
fortable corsets are almost forgot-
tpn. Who says new that women are
not as comfortably and as sensibly
dressed as men—or that, men have
anything in the way of dress con-
ventions to brag of that women
have not?
There is just one lingering note
of discontent when this question is
asked of women. Some of them
still clamor for a,uniform——not a
uniform in the sense that the olive
drab and khaki of the United
SLites army. or the nun's con-
ventual habit. or the convict's suit
of stripes are uniforms. but a uni-
form in the sense of the man's busi-
ness suit with its conventional and
easily assembled accessories.
"All a man needs to do is to see
that his suits are sent now and
than to the tailor and to keep him-
self supplied with clean shirts and
collars and occasionally new neck-
ties; He gets himself measured
once or twice a. year for a new suit
or two. and gets the other things.
shirts and collars and such. as
easily as a woman buys a. pound of
tea. What a joy and a comfort for
the busy woman if she could keep
her wardrobe replenished so easily.
and if she could always keep her-
self looking fresh and spick and
span with so little trouble!"
There is a Uniform.
That is the complaint of one
. women. And you will find busy
women everywhere — professional
women, business women and per-
haps most of all women who are
much engaged with the care of
home and young family—who pro-
fess to long for what they call a
“uniform" for women. ’
All of which is really quite a
tempest in a teapot for any woman
who wishes to do so can put her
clothes on as much of a uniform
basis as can a man. The replenish-
ing of her wardrobe then may be-
come quite as simple as his. Only
she must definitely make up her
mind that once having chosen her
particular type of dress she will not
be tempted to leave the straight and
narrow way. nor, buy accessories or
details of dress that do not belonl
to the type of costume that she has
chosen. '
The frocks or suite she buys will
vary from season to season accord-
ing to the change of fashion. and
the accessories will change—01m 'ss
men's do—bnt there will be no sud-
den changes of fashion to
her peace of mind.
The two-piece tailored suit is the
.TH. ~
‘tion comes to work in
"r’ :“1-.— , ~
1
at
fort of masculine uniformity of coe-
tume. In spite of the fact that this
,type of garment became excessively
Dongle: in the spring and was worn
by every one" it has not really lost
caste. There are as many really
smartly dressed American women
today who are counting on the
tailored two-piece suit for their
street costume for late summer an
early autumn as ever. '
Two-piece Suit Still smart.
in France the two-piece suit be-
came so popular that it was some-
times caricatured. Possibly it was
worn so much by women in general
that the really fashionable woman
in particular, over there. withdrew
her favor. But at any rate it was
smart. It actually was the uniform
of the great majority of carefully
dressed women. There was the
wrap-around skirt. the rather close
Powder blue flannel apart frock
with cadets in skirt giving circular
flare. iron. with or without blouar.
There is a learnt-r belt. Sport clothes
vary. but each woman specializes on
one particular sort, making of it a
uniform for hersell.
fitting slightly shaped-in single-
bution jacket and with it always the
scarf or “foulard"——-the cloche. nude
stockings. strap slippers. cuff gloves,
etc.
But despite popularity there is no
danger that the two-piece tailored
suit will soon be out of the smart
picture for those who appreciate its
advantage. it has recently taken
on new lines and somewhat differ-
ent accessories. Instead of the
cloche there is the high crowned
"postiilon" hat. instead of the
knotted handkerchief stock there is
a straight long scarf usually Worn
quite simply. stockings are still
light but more apt to be of the buff
tones than of the vivid flesh color.
or they may even be of gray. and
instead of the strap pump the ox-
ford is making its apmsmncHr
rather reappearance. The jacket is
even trimmer, straighter than it
was. with a. preference in favor of
the deep double-breasted model.
For the woman who yearns for a.
suit as simple and easily assembled _
as the man's business suit here is .
everything that she can desire.
Never in the whole history of occi-
dental costumery has it been possi-
ble for a Woman to dress with such
a smack of masculinity—~though it
amounts more to boyishness than to
real mannishnees-without jeopard-
ising her feminine charm. Here is
a street costume that would have
left Amelia Bloomer herself nothing
to desire. but it smacks neither of
the reformer nor the faddist.
Business Women Like Variety.
‘ Oddly enough the woman one
meets in oilioes. business women
generally. seem rather unwilling to
avail themselves of the advantages
of this tailored suit costume.
level-headed girl who holds down
the position of (secretary to the
president" of a very big organiza-
a white
georgette frock or one of orchid
voile—in cooler weather she wears
beaded satin. velvet trimmed with
lace. She is armed more like the
maid of honor at a church wedding
than an efficient young woman out
to earn her daily slice of bread. Of
course the president of the concern
to whom she is such an invaluable
assistant would like it better if she
dressed in a trimly accoutered suit
-—buttbenhehaslongsincecoased
qutho Ifllctency of ’his fem-
inine workers by the appropriate-
WEI.
PLAY A PART 1N T
The—
BY
It is really quite striking. this
seeming lack of disposition on the
part of “women who work at what
were once regarded as men’s jobs.
to assume the boyish and mannish
clothes that at the present time
come well within the fashion.
This tailored suit ensemble is
much more apt to be chosen as the
street and traveling and general
utility costume of the daughter or
wife of the president of the concern.
You are far more apt to see it even
in its severest guise on the porches
of some exclusive country club than
along the boardwalks where the
girl who works for her living takes
her two weeks' holiday. Oddly
enough. too. there are several suc-
cessful actresses. legitimate and
otherwise, who have welcomed the
smart two-piece tailored costume
with enthusiasm. It is their uni-
form Wth free from the responsi-
bilities of their craft. .
For the woman who really wishes
to dress to the best advantage on
a decidedly.- limited income—and
what millions there must be within
that class—the tailored suit, re-
plenished with fresh accessories as
a man‘s business suit is replenished.
is a most satisfactory choice. A suit
kept in perfect press. with faultless
accessories. would give a woman
smurt distinction at any luncheon
and would even see her through the
requirements of afternoon parties
when for more expensive apparel
might be far less effective.
DRE
MARY
. .‘Tmnigilmile 1.1 e e g e ,‘ a
frock with a soft felt hat. another
plays with a bandeau around her
bobbed hair and chooses a sport
skirt with knitted Jumper.
it is only the indiiferent sporte-
woman who goes from one sort of
sport costume to another. The real
sportswoman develops a distinctive
gtyle in dress as she does in the
handling of her tennis racket or golf
clubs,
The young American girl earl!
learns the advantages and the exac—
tions of uniform. for the young
American. generally speaking. spends
some of her summer vacations at
camp where always very strict rule.
are kept concerning the wearing of
the camp uniform. At many of the
better—class schools. too. there is a
growing tendency to conform to a
uniform for school hours. This is
of course a perfectly logical reac-
tion from the over-elaborate dress-
ing and extravagant use of cos-
metics and Jewelry that have been
observed in mam’ girls' high schools.
The more exclusive private schools.
wishing distinction. forbade fines-y,
drew up strict
school clothes. made jewelry taboo
and put a ban on make up. There
may have been snobbery as .
motive. but the result has been ea-
tirely satisfactory.
Six of a Kind.
Though she does not always real-
ize it. the woman who spends her
hours working in her own house
and about her own garden may
solve mnny of her dress difficulties
by adiiptlng :2 uniform. She is wise
in adupung (“worked gingham as the
fabric. 011': clever woman who
makes her own clothes with the aid
of n li‘tlo seamstress greatly sim-
pnflml hm- arcs: varoblem this sum-
mer h‘ h v n‘? "x “checked "ingham
fro.“ c all n’zml‘ pill“ ‘The ("Ter-
cncn line in ”in color of the ch°c‘(—- '
\mwn, yvl‘mw. \"Ult‘t. green. pink
-nd blue!
The grnr' ._ ‘vrmtcco n' mi'mtln‘!
.orno sand 0’ “'l'h nifnrmit" in
onc's v-zlrvlrnl» is lh‘t one can ap—
ncar smart and frr-s‘i and spick and
span With fat loss fret and worri‘
‘lxuv‘ '..- rm v-{wn "hm evr‘r Fork
in 0' c" "r ‘ ‘n e n 'ors entirely in
Cl]! 1“ T - " » "VEI‘V 0‘59?
Each r' . in”: I lll'Yorcnt adlust-
mom. diff» om slips are needed.
different colored stocklncs and
sometimes an t-ntiroly different ar-
’llllllllllélllllgllillwill:
e e
*2
\
7-20
Above. camp cesium [or young
girl. White middy blouse with blue
knickers and red tic. The pirls'
camps and many giru’ schools roe
atom the uncaring of o tmilorm.
For Sports.
The clothes of the devoted sports-
woman have amused the simplicity
of a uniform nowadays. That is.
almost every girl who has achieved
anything at golf. tennis or other
activities. has virtually ”named a.“
uniform for her favorite sport' It is
what she instance! to be
adapted to the game—inch!
rangement of the hair to make the
different frocks becoming.
There is not the slightest doubt
that women are better satisfied
with the clothes they wear no'w
than they have been in many. many
years. Why else would they cling
so persistently. despite the contor-
tions of the designers and the dress.
makers. to the straight tubular
frock. the straight short skirt. the
comfortable low neck—features all
that have disused very little since
early days of the war.
Are We at Stendstill.
Usually»
rules regarding .
MARSHALL .
,, '_‘_“_'E-..,L_“ V,;‘...;‘.‘...° ‘ ‘ ' ‘
\l ll.l\\\:\fllԤ3h
observes that the dress of men in
London has varied less during the
last seventy years than at any
other period of European history.
"It would be possible." sails lie.
“for anyone wearing the costume
and hat of 1870 to walk down Bond
Street and Piccadilly without at-
tracting am; particular attention.
0n the other hand. a gentleman in
Checked
' ‘ ill- ‘l‘li
llll‘ll’ilWl‘iiin
o
',_,‘ <e77£ms - ‘, s s s e a a . . .
HE PRESENT
"1‘
gingham frocks for house work and
the attire which was fashionable in
1800 would have been followed by a
crowd had he walked abroad in
1870." A
We might add that seldom within
recent years has feminine fashion
changed so little as within the last
ten or twelve years. A woman
might walk down any smart thor-
oughfare in the land wearin-v the
s v e e
Wuhmlmlmm
‘ n' " H'l
* fifiilll.
.1.~,.‘*.._-‘ .
e 's‘ of. z..~..x‘"
at; 1‘" "
i
; i
inim' ’ \
gardening.
more ndvnncnd mode of ten years
ago without utirncting any particu-
lar atlcntion. 0n the other hand. a
woman in the Entire which was
fashionable in 19:33 would have
caused much consternation had she
walked abroad in 1913.
liext week—Jewelry as a Part of
the Mode.
FASHIONS and
POLITICS
RESSMAKERS and designers
D or Paris have a clever manner
of taking inspiration from the
outstanding and most picturesque
events of the life of the French
capital. During the war the streets
of the capital were made pictur-
esque by the presence of Scotch
troops. and in consequence French
manufactures. responding to a pop-
ular demand. produced all sorts of
Scotch plaid. authentic and other-
wise. The vogue for Scotch plaids
then started is still going strong
and doubtless many ladies in Edin-
burgh are now wearing gally plaided
ribbons and silks without ever once
suspecting that they are Scotch or
that the kilts of their own brothers
when in Paris were responsible for
the fashion.
Then France is visited by natives
of some of her most picturesque de-
pendencies—strange-costurned gen-
tlemen from Annam and Cambodia.
and presto change fashion is tinged
with the costumery of Indo Chine.
But in this country imems to be
quite different. We are loathe to
find inspiration in the events of our
‘own lives. though willing enough to
adopt the reflected impression of the
events in the French capital.
If a great liticai 'c'onvention like
the Democ tic convention last
month in New. York had taken place
in Paris, what a field for fashion in-
spiration there would have been!
In New York all it amounted to
was the display of innumerable
.little .donkeys—handkerchiefs with
donkeys printed on the corners.
rhinestone pins and hat ornaments
in the shape of a donkey. One of
the shops showed large \silk hand-
herchiefs in the center of which was
printed a reproduction of the nadi-
eon Square Garden. where the con-
vention was held. Then here and
there there were shop windows
showing groups of wax figures
dressed in the costume of mes—Mu
year whu: the. Democratic conven-
tion was last held in.New York-
There would have bemlnapiration
enough for the French design er..
Hewould havefoundsomedetail” of
their-ass of that ported that he
mishtuutoenrtcbhiso'n aim-
Drehtionofthemoledlm. Butr
with.uAmericaneit
in meat.
first thing to be eon-law by most becoming. One golf oath still in fashion evolution? n.1,}. pperea
woman whowantstohave the - lies! of theireostume. always wears a one-piece flannel Novel! in his “World of Mien“ gouac- gem _. , .z to an:
i “‘ l r 7" r ‘ l ., ,
i w i F i m g 1 m w ‘ .
if; 4... - . . £3 ..
w‘ ”r ”a.
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Norwalk Chronicler