4‘1" ,‘H. ”H”. .t w 1mm H l 1m. “at“. l... . .4. t via/1114' mm; mum... .. “to, s the days continue to lengthen the milliners turn their brains to thoughts of wider brimmed hats: But they cannot glide into the realms of umbrsgeous hapellnes floppy garden-party hats. large mushrooms.' and the rest of the wide-brimmed species. as smoothly as in other seasons. As one anillina'y put it. “itis the bobbed~haired prev dlcament'that is bothering most of us." If you think that the recent im- pulse on the part of American womanklnd to be shorn or 'her crowning glory is something that affects only the diligent army of bar-hers and hair dreamt-s. you are quite in error. Their problem is comparatively ~simple. They have only to adapt themselves to long hours. feverish acth'ity. and the problem of changing their techniun Black straw with and- ed bird far trimming. A gilded bird is also 1 . perched on the umbfelio handle. Rage. and brown lace veil trim atraw cloclte in circle_ in wielding the hot iron. Women who affect the smooth Valentino shingle have invaded the men's bar- bnr shops—Amt then in many sec- t:ons men have retaliated by invad- ing the "beauty parlors" in quest of mud packs and manicures. The Milliners’ emblems The milliner‘s problem really is more complicated than most women realize. While any one may say in passing that all women have adopted the bob. the fact remains that many women. numerous fash- ionable women among them. do and Will persist in the archaic habit of wearing their hair long. Thus every mllliner is confronted with the prob- lem of supplying hats to the bobbed and the unbobbed. and, as summer approaches there is the added com- plication of producing smart hats fnr the shorn as well as the more hairy speciu. . The first implants: was that th wide-brimmed hat would never do until short hair. The small hat-—the cioche and the closely draped turban mhad assumed their present vogue because of the bob. An entirely new silhouette had to be worked out by the designers in me wide hat of the newer sort—with proportions quite diflsrent from those of old- tlme widevbrimmed hats when the crown made root}: for several ounces of hair. ’ ‘ Wide Brine for Summon Of course there had to be these Yellow recast“, leather and We .‘ ;. Warm -Wea “ “mafia! "horns. . casters“?! " ' ‘ ' are s , "A" a a ... udder hats. It is natural to think that they must appear in warm weather; and there has been quite a bit of talk about them. At some of the winter resorts in the South they made their appearance as early as February. and they were worn by bridesmaids at several distino guished Easter weddings and will be worn by many more of the June bridesmaids. But in spite of all that there are rather good fashion prophets who seem to think that. this will not be a season or wide brims at all. Though French mllllners have masksmfimam an: 'srsa‘fjos.’ W ”‘3: If”. e els- .s s or Hats for the _' shown some very interesting hsts of this description the Ranch women themselves have a strong attachment for the small. close- ilttlng hat. which is becoming very deep and high of crown. How About Shade Hats? - Doctors Failed for years about tight lacing without ever doing very much to stop it. Moralists preached against low necks. short skirts. ”peek—a-boo" tracks. but these things wens ofi. . Fashion alone seems to be able to put aside style‘, whether it citends the morallsts or the doctors. ,They may occasionally in some slight de- gree influence fashions. but ,the'da- is very slight. ' eseesv « - BMARY u i For Tallow-ed can This is good advice—to consider the hat for your tailored frock or suit in a class quite apart from sport hat; or hats to be worn with lighter;‘ more ceremonial afiernoon things. No manor how you may banker alter the economy of work- ing one hat twelv's or fourteen hours a day—you will find mu: you want to give the right presentation .to your tailored; street attire you must buy a. hat "especially for it. The wider brimmed, Lace trimmed. transparent. frilly hats that beckon to you from the mllllner‘s window: will never do for the tailored get-up. Sport hats really ought to be con— sidered in a class by themselves. too. The true sport hat is not the most suitable affinity you can select for the talk‘i‘i‘fl suit. though many womer" Si‘i‘l‘ll to think that they have chOSeu wisely when they wear a sport but of soft and pliant lines for this purpose, The.l“rench woman sets us a rather good example in preferring for the tailored suit a brisker. more alert sort- of hot. ' trimmed with ribbon quills or a well wired bow of ribbon. For the navy blue tailored suit. you know. the navy straw, trimmed with navy blue and white. is in effectand in fact very _smart. ' Next Week—The Right clothes for Traveling. C At left. black straw with crest of red silk. and rhinestone bird. worn with red and black scarf. Atrium, below, large shape a] white or-, gondie bompleated and trimmed with black in- lips. The brim is faced will: black. velvet. MARSH I s v s e D“ veile‘h is a e a s A ‘ s s s s e w 0'2. ~augments“.Issuntan-m”stonewall-slat assess-assesses | O \ IV‘Ooltlls-aa!‘ ---And the Unbobbed ' Large hat of black nouns worn inJhe evening. The brim is faced with petals of metallic brocade in 6mm: colors. Earrings with one block pearl and one white. The way with Shapes. on any one-not a' milliner who starts out to acquire a tamiliar- ity with the termmology ot hat shapes, contusion lurks on every hand. There are at least fifty- seven different varieties of the little hat that the laiety usually refers to as s. clochs. There are true clochos and cloches that only appear to be such. The pot-shape is quite dit- terent. you; know—var you may not know. And there is a very hazy line drawn between some oi the pokes and some of the cischss'. The milliners talk glibly of post. em shapes. Spanish sailors. mush- rooms. capelines. brstuns. Out of all this confusion of tonnes comes the fact that in all small hats crowns higher an’d deeper, especially when they are 92 French making. The very high crown is less likely to be taken up by Ameri- cans. Whoa features an less defin- mm . than those of the $33,," ”a :lfo are that'siore less a zirttylysttgkigl and definite lih'os. . Sailor hats have narrow brine and high germs. Ime hats oi: the capeline variety and others that f‘fi‘t‘gfialg organdiea etc... usually 80. the hat situation is aunt‘s,“ sman crowns- .The hill! cm where it has been. probably. after consideration of the warning ot‘a' physician who says that the tiny. brilnless hats most women "swear; tag are quite insumcient foreman- simply does not go with the Mood brim. .9 Y ‘ while fibers. is an oil-the- nce-13.1mm tendency. It is whisp- «draw that women will. wear mar, For summer. says he. thmuuenstsh ‘ , should be a shading brim to cotton suds Wilma. and many at the the light of the sun. Otherwisa'a , mart sort dos-hos serious condition oi permanent fian- burn may result. What are yougoinstodo about ‘3 pear—well in the hat of _ fisher up on thug-toreerr at the back. This is distinctly .a Directoire note. Brims are often turned up at the side—up at the left side and down at the right is'ths rule. I What Are the Colors to reChose for the New Hats ? come into fashion again. This seems to be once in so often. No one writes concerning insh- ions in Paris at the present time without commenting on the small: all-red hat that seems to have brightencd the spirits ot the fash- ionable women or Paris during an unusually tedious spring. Unfortunately. bright red hats are reaching this country just at the time of year when bright red hats are just exactly what most of us don't need to wear. it is time we were thinking of blues and of yel- lows and or greens: Still. (my Woman with a good supply of hats might have one on hand just to wear on dull days. EVERY once in so often red hats One gets tired of hearing. season after season. the statement that black and white is very smart. It is like being reminded frequently that sugar is sweet. It is some. thing that never seems to to em tirely out or fashion. —_—l—-— This season. however, French women have come to the conclusion that pure white against black does not become them so much as cream white. It is a good suggestion for thedark, or olive-skinned, woman of fills country. Next to black and white. Yblack and yellow seems to have strongest appeaL At present one immediately thinks of the black straw hat with yellow buttemups. - Brown in its almost infinite shadinss still has strong appeal. And among leading designers that. is a growing willinsnsss to use it in combination with other colors. Bapphin blue and cocoa brownie a combination which has be. ad. mired in macs. All types of hats are still trimmed with ribbon. Ribbon knows as class distinction. Lewis of Paris sssms to have be“ especially successful with it. On one little brimlsss pot-shaped bat rather wido‘ribbon is attached m beneath the crown in front. in bank and at each side. These four strands of ribbon are drawn straight up to the top of the hat. when they are tied in a large and Jaunty bow. n is the kind of hat that delights the taste at a French woman. 081‘ or nausea not cow: that childish point 0! view that a wreath of flowers ,makes a very satisfactory trimming for any summer hat. There is a pleasure is leaking about at the marvelous poll. that bloom on the amines! ouster-s. em thoush you couldn't tor the ills of you trim a hat. Roses still bloom . than used ' plentifullr.- Just at ps-aat til-sis nothing quarter than a m I” rose and a single 'wbite W. I..- timss they hang dew-M at the side back of the hat. Pond mm. cans iii-a saw a the mus for the was: we: flew- ers that began with the Only sometimes they are was: low. blue or means. E