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T is significant at the present
fashion tendency that at a
certain important dressmaking
embllshment the bout is made
that no two books produced there
are made with sleeves exactly alike.
They are varied in shape, in cut.
in trimming or in finish.
50 apparently sleeves are emerg-
ing from their long interim of
obscurity. To be sure there have
been persistent efforts to bring
siceves back to importance. Or
rather the dressmakers or designers
fiWOQeu-lexus . 0..Is‘.-:eu:s\-Iex4:s.‘S-‘om’exLIs.17:s\7!s‘-1’rs\".'s.ite-“mfi‘hm.~.‘.}s\’;iei‘.flst‘n’iu’nmiifrsu‘ux"/.\L‘.'..'.‘.'.i1'l .
omits ribbon or even rows of little
pearl buttons.
A certain student of costumer!
once made the statement that it he
law but the sleeve of a. fashionable
gown of any period he could imme-
diately place it. To the person
versed in the clothes lore of the
ages the whole story might be
written in sleeves. “'hat an inter-
esting hobby this would be-—-the
study and collection of sleeves! A
world of romance hangs in some
sleeves. Take the very long sleeve
in fashion in the twelfth century—
the exaggerated our: of which hung
like a. “pendant canoe"—-so long
that it had to be tied and knotted
back lest it trip the wearer. These
elongated sleeves were to the flap-
pers of the middle ages what the
very short skirts were to our
own fiappers a few seasons agone.
Preachers railed against them, just
as preachers a few years later
railed at the exaggerated length of
women's skirts, which were re-
garded as pernicious and immoral.
A cartoonist of the day of the
knotted sleeve when he wished to
depict the tempter himself showed
him with these exaggerated arm
coverings.
find whenever sleeves become ex-
aggeratedlv wide and full preachers
and prophets arise to warn us
against them. Whenever women
turn the tables and go with bare
arms loud protest is made against
this fashion. at least until every one
gets used to it.
Bare Arms Were Shocking.
All through the ‘Middle Ages and
the Early Renaissance period bare
arms—even partly bare arms—were
practically unknown in Europe. In
England there seemed to be an ,F ‘ ' .
especially-‘strong prejudice against 3 “‘2
'Long tight sleeve of blue cloth any shortening or slashing of the ’F ‘5 '_’ i.
finished £17105 narrow bond Of white fifei'e tiiatI would shmvatlge skin 10f /- 3‘":'
, . e arm. t was regar.e«_ as qu te _. "'
linen and Mth‘ fvpearl buckle. immodest. In the reign of Henry 5'4 “"3-
VIII short sleeves and gowns with E 7'“
no sleeves at all were introduced ~‘, § 2"! 1
have constantly been putting out from France. It was the first time ,-' E ; fit. '
little feelers. in the way of frocks all“? 0;: days of the axlcignt. bar- ' i or
anan ritons that Englzsz. Women . u “‘5
with ornate sleeves. to see whether had shown their arms, and great (i, g .
the women who buy the clothes and was the excitement and alarm. It Black and solute sleeve of top with f _ .. ‘ n E
finance the dressmakers were ready gave moralizing preachers subjm‘t white facing ”’21:. M thy. .. E: ~ __:1'
:31- a. return of sleeve elaborate- for exhortation for weeks to come. “affirm?“ ““9 fl flzflah rib: {E r,
5-: But until now apparently the At the present “me we seem ‘0 plea 8 around fawn“ knitted ' i .
ne “ ' _ have become immune from any b0" bows, a. 5 ‘1 _.
women have been perfectly Willing possible alarm or. excitement that silk sleeve gathered into narrow F_
‘0 5° simply sleeved. might be derived from the sight of band “a" . .
bare arms. Possibly that is why _
Ornateness Appears. we are willing to go back to sleeves «.3 \
more elaborately made and trimmed. '_ , ' '
The long tight sleeve is almost But don't expect too much. The a‘i “.1
always finished with some sort of change is certainly not com_ ox‘er- r »
interesting cuff or other decoration night. The sleeveless frock or day , J: t
and the slem‘eless or very short- time is by no means obsolete. At 3. ,. .,
sleeved frock shows signs of deco- southern resorts in late winter it . ‘1‘
rative application about the upper was quite obvious that smartly F;
arm. The very short puffed sleeve dressed women were by no means
is no longer an oddity and the arm- ready tO abandon it in favor of ‘
hole of the sleeveless frock is sleeved frocks. And it may be ser— . .-
bound with pearls, beads, lace, era] years in making its final exit. other than a tendency to self such 3;
tion. The man who boasts that he >
‘ can date a frock by the sleeves it _ 4
contains might have difficulty years
hence in discovering the vintage of ,3
some of the eccentric little sleeves ;. I - ,‘e
of today, 3 ‘ - . :
One thing you may have discov- . '~ g A -
ered if you have shopped for blouses I t ; ; .
—the short—sleeved blouse is pres. . . I 9.
tically extinct. There are sleeve- “ 2 -'_ i ~
» less blouses still—but almost never ' .- _' '
short-seleeved blouses. For the girl 1 E
who goes in for the thoroughly tail- 3
ored effect the long-sleeved blouse E
' of crepe de chine. English broad- . §
cloth or other substantial material ; ' 3%
seems still to be a usual choice. But - 27
for the woman who is less of a .2
purist in choosing the accessories :2
0: her tailored suit the sleeveless .: f $
blouse is cttener chosen. And ,3. i‘ ‘1- ‘
speaking of blouse and suits-— jg: 2 . '
though it has nothing to do with -" f ; I -
sleeves—some brave wniiman in Paris , If. ‘53,: , it, 9; ~
recentl appeared we in: a blouse ‘ " ,2 ‘l‘in-v e I. ' . 7 t :
sevemymchea longer mm um um Q‘y’fs‘séfrflsfi.‘ , . . A: top. «flute crepe blouse mm with men shows our! am -,‘~" t q
. Jacket over it. Other women 1m- ' a L’dgfi‘f-‘J‘h‘ é‘E‘d‘ ‘ At fight. ”fled sleeve 10‘". fumes 0f dotted voile. A: W. decode“ " ‘ '_: ;‘
mediately followed suit. After all " " -T ”.3.“ . lat , “g “.3 °f black latin ’9 mtch "‘9 frock. I 3 A
the idea. is a rather good one. How so lg." “‘ ' .4 J i ’ ;
else may one show one's blouse? 1 ~‘ §
Men in time past have worn their . t o 6
mm... somewhat lower than N Thing Abo 5 all F ash: ns t
. their costs in front, so that more of alarm. sour! edged and cm M 3w s u m 0
them might be seen. with hyacinth: tom sleeve: on » A 2-.
mauve crane dimer frock. In circle. 0MB of the shoe shops. which sttenuatedin silhouette settles the! :
Uneven sleeves. above, rose on 0W, 10‘"! he»? have for a. long time sold my be curved around the he: .7
‘3‘
braid. At left, Wm . , ‘
falling from each short siesta“
thrce— uarter sleeves a} top.
t loose q ’-mutton sleeve trimmed with
nd 1: -0
sleeves trimmed with butts}: :oatee gwith gathered panels .01‘ chifion
Tim
-u“‘-““
interesting Wrist Adel-omens
The long. straight. rather tight
sleeve is also still used. but among
French dressmakers there seems to
be a. tendency to give this some
interesting treatment at the wrist.
Often it fits ‘closely to the wrist.
there ending in a. little flare. This
is often lined with some brightly
contras g lining. For the tailored
suit the is built strictly along man-
nish lines the straight sleeve is of
course the only choice. but on many
0: the less severe models we find
the sleeve that gradually widens.
giving a generous opening at the
wrist.
Sometimes these wide-wrists!!!
suit sleeves have a decided flare
below the elbow and in a French
suit of finely striped material the
sleeve is made or two portions—
one with stripes running up and
down. extending from the shoulder
to slightly below the elbow—and
below this another flaring section
with the stripes running round
about. Printed crepe do chine
forms the lining. which shows xen-
‘ v e s »e e e v s ,'
MARY. MARSHALL ‘
they almost always select either the
sleeve that fits close to the wrist
and then has a little have about the
hand or the sleeve that is wide from ’
the elbow down.
L09 0' Mutton.
‘In the meantime intreesting ex-
periments have been taking place.
lomeone even went so far as to in-
troduce a leg 0' mutton sleeve-—
floss below the elbow and full above
t. ,
For formal afternoon wear a
sleeve that is of the bishop sort has
been used many times. This is. of
course. the sleeve that is full from
shoulder to wrist. where it is con-
fined in a our: or band of some sort.~
Then there is the sleeve close and
tight from the shoulder to well
below the elbow, where there is a
little pun extending to the wrist.
Meantime the shoulder put: seems
to be struggling hard to survive.
So you see there is no definite.
clearly defined tendency in sleeves
Scarf of gold net fem one sleeve
in black satin frock.
‘ .
on;
s v o v o c
On evening gowns uneven sleeve sleeve.»
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development is not at ill unusual.
Since it has become the fashion to
make sleeves of scarf! one seldom
finds two arms draped.elike. It a
very-long war! is used it is some-
times draped across one shoulder.
and then carried over to the other
where it falls from the shoulder. A
very clever frock of black satin 8095
frankly sleeveless at the left side
and then has a sleeve made of a
gold net scarf at the right.
For the bouffant skirted frocks
which still persist in the wardrobes
of the younger women. a. sleeve
showing more studied design is us-
ually found. Quite frequently it is
the tiny puffed sleeve. Sometimes
there are no sleeves but a. rosette
or pompon of ostrich or artificial
flowers. Most clever is the arrange-
ment of an artificial rose at the
shoulder with the long stem and
foliage winding around the em al-
most to the elbow. ’
b
Next Week—Frocks for Graduation.
winding around am takes place of
d .-%
£2?
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stockings. so that the buyer of
shoes might buy matching stock-
ings, are now selling gloves. You
Fbuy, for instance. a pair of brown
suede shoes. silk stockings to
match. and a. pair of brown kid
gloves with trimming of suede.
These you wear with a. blue tailored
suit. 01' you buy black'shoes, gray
stockings. and black gloves with
pierud cuffs lined with gray. The
point is that you buy gloves with
your shoes in mind.
Many of the new time have
very shallow nosing buffs covered
with an intricate design in out
work. unlined.
i—-———d
atom is used for trun-
some’ of the smart evening
crown.
There are some very good sport
coat; of huge English plaids. White
tweed“ also smart for coats for
country weer.
Sport frocks or flannel are made
with attached capes at the shouk
ders.
A good fabric for a. simple m
time free]: is a heavy sill:
with tiny pleats laid in it on
right side only. That is. the crepe
issewoventhstithssthem
once of
erously at the.wrist. Many of the from '- m °'m°h'°w Spanish freedom m boots has
tailored stneet frocks show the flar- shawl, M would to M
in: long sleeve. which almost al- -——- of course. tol l stsnmwell'oon the
ways gives the dressmaker an op- m ‘1” m ‘3' urges unsung-doubtless“
portunity for displaying a touch of ads of seats at searsette. somo- developed by .1; the 1” shoe. 1'.
bright lining. , In one instance this
lining is blue and white plaid alpa—
ca on a. frock of blue alpaca and
on a. frock of new blue serge. the
sleeve lining thot Shows is of yellow,
and red ootton tapesu'y.
Apparently the straight. thor-
oughly mannish sleeve is a greater
favorite with American women than
with French women. whet-egard it
as suited best to the very young
woman who can stand the severity
of it, while for the older woman
7 ’l I‘ll’ll’lft ill’rlt‘l’: It’ll’rltll
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" 7“: odd under-web sleeve
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V intervene sneeze, 'm 70 med of narrow" . mm turban! A
m” g ' otchiflon caught with rows. ,
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wtth
rem
The SLEEVE BECOMES WIDER‘andMQRE ORNATB,
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m..- a. Ara-£451 “4.. . ..-. em u. «M .awwulanIllm
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Norwalk Chronicler