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The Sui
PPARENTLY all the king‘s
horses and all the king’s men
of the fashion world couldn't
bring the suit into fashion when
women didn't banker to wear it.
But this season women teal the
urge—and the dressmakers'and
tailors both here and abroad are
taking advantape of this psycho-
logical moment.
The really later-tins question
is. why should women he d
to wear suits? Whales came all
this sudden and stunning interest
in this well-known type 0! gar-
ment that had remained for so
many seasons in the side lines at
fashion? ’
There are women who vowed
nn’ twelve short months ago that
rht‘y would never. no never. wear
another suit—that they'd elweys
war either sport clothes or frocks
and costs. that they thought suits
matemlnine and nng-raeetul—ete"
e'r _. who now cannot hetahe
:lxamselves to their tailors or
drassmahera or favorite depart-
ment store fast enough to make
mqulrlee concerning the new suit
: vr spring.
Perhaps it is all part of the low
«1' compensation that must work
:n the realm of clothes it it does
other matters. For seasons:
am the short Kiri. the girl \tho‘1
1: petite generally. has had things?
all her own way. The tall. broad-,
w .\
arm coot with to» collar and
”wt of red and green.
wouldered, Gibson type of girl has
bad to stand aside {or the girl of
d‘minutivo proportions. how.
NJhout a doubt it is this 'tall,
’z'hletlc type of girl who appears
. best advantage in a suit. She
um stand the broken line oi: the
.nnrt jacket without fear of being
" aria to look dumpy. She can
“Mr all the "lungs and trim-
-.:ns~"~—the fob. waistcoat. hut-
'nns. trilled shirt. knotted kerchiet
or scart, without danger at being
made to 100k like I monkey
dressed tor a circus made.
[more tingly enough it is the
French resonators and tailors
Who have made snit- eo attractive
that women have not wit
them. No doubt they did this with
lheir American customers in mind.
tor French timers and de-
“sum. you know, no longer hide
the fact that they really do yearn
to please the American women.
The shirt
Scant. straight and short-—
twelve inches trees the ground
usually—are adjectives thumb
to motto! the-alumnus
wring. To be sure the" are suit
skirts she'll. n d 3311.
there are even 1:11.:an
and recently more than enact the
French dressmakerl has stamped
With approval the suit skirt that
is platted. But the desirable ail—
houette can best be secured by the
skirt that is as scent and as
straight as a east.
The wrap-a d swim“
r th its. tho-Isl than are
vegan.” “Win their
obmoastothbtnefi‘m
' o
l
«to
.1) 6‘ ‘\.\"fl:
The handkerchief may be used as a scor‘.
visually there is a bit or rubber in
the belt of the. shirt—at the hash
Preferably. The sum. than hooks
and snaps at the aide trout and the
belt line gives and chanson to suit
the shifting position of the 3811"-
Some one asks how in the name
of all that‘s practical and seat can
a women wear a shit when she is
corsetieest She seems to think
that one must ohooee between the
suit or ooraetleasnees. and is in-
clined to think that most women
would toreewear the suit at such
a price.
But there is no more need for
corsets with a suit than with a
frock. it the belt is properly ad-
justed lid is made with rubber in
the back. To be sure. some women
dislike the feeling of any waist-
bends over the uncorsetted figure.
Well. a small girdle is easy to
wear and of course much nto be
d ed for the woman who does
no oasess a perfect ilgnre. Tuck-
ln bl es seem to be the choice
or ma smart women for the
really sport type of suit and now
these are made with additional
length—so that it one' suit skirt
is placed at low waistl no there is
still material enough to secure the
blouse.
Fahic and Color
Undeniably good are shades of
rfl'rrg, enlivened by huge handker-
llght beige, or gray. Chanel. 033%
or the leading sponsors of the suit-
in Paris. favors these shades.
Shepherd plaids in two shades of
beige or light brown. and all man—
ner of mixtures showing gray and
black. are good. Navy blue seems:
to have won back its old prestige. ;
'Which .you choose of these
color eflects may depend on theirg
becomingness to ,yon. Some;
women look hopelessly sallow in=
beige. It is a decidedly "large“
shade. as most women of more
than average height or breadth,
can tell you. Still there are some '
large women who look their best
in beige and some sallow women
who can wear it with distinction.
Navy blue has its drawbacks. It
makes some women look very in-
significant and hardens the lines
of their laces. The woman who
has discovered this to be true gen-
erally believes that blue is oun-
cult and unattractive—not to say
commonplace. Yet there are
women here and in trance—very
well-dressed women. too—who
never wear anything but navy blue
tor street' and general. day-time
wean—whether it happens to he
in the trout ranks of fashion at
the time ornot.
English twecds in so—called
“manninh” mixtures are choeen
by many fastidious women. They
seem very appropriate for subur-
ban and country towns. and less
so perhaps for the stmta ot the
large cities. Twins and line
ribbed materials are well chosen.
especially for the suit that is td
have hard wear. Coveru. is the
.ByMARY
"Ir: 7237;"? i.
,1}:- 3'!" a ‘ r"
"MARSHALLJIMYe-ndfifmfi ghouls-W1 f, x I
Ifrr'oi .’ i.’
Ar Ifft, wary blue suit 211:}! e '11 fr «it?
mi 1 scar! and tie Mtcuflg its color.
str'pes, worn utfh refute blouse, d
opportunity for the use of two dif-j
ierent sorts of fabric. Sometimes:
the skirt is- made or plaid and the;
jerket is plain. This seams in h»-
smarter than the plain Jarlcm Will;
the plnltcd skirt. though this my
is seen. The plain jacket is used;
vnrh very smart Prior: to combina-‘
tion with a striped skirt.
1
Black and white check has been into you wish: hove had to scout.
out of the picture for several:
seasons. and even when it was
most usual it enjoyed the reputa-
tion of being anything but quiet.
80 it might take «mile a. bit of
courage to adopt it now that it;
has been revived. it i< unde-‘
nisbly smart. especially when the
Jacket is bound with black all];
braid.
1!” m1.”
.Some of the dressmakera are
showing hip—lenah blouses to go
with their suits. Jean Patna l‘
particularly interested. in little
satin blouses for his suits. and
other French designers make
these little blouses of crepe de
chine. The smart American pref~
erenre seems to be for the white
lblouso and the effect produced is
unquestionably more in keeping
with the spirit of the suit that is.
really mannish~boy15h. rather.
below our
Jeweled lob falling
‘cw-
5L.
,1: right! my and block g
iTHE FOB
l
jewelers have come forward
to meet the present fashion
for the lob. Two months or more
i WITH amazing promptness the ,
the shops for a. watch fob. or you ’
mmht have ended by having one
made. Now at every good and;
progressive shop mu find them.‘
Whatever the pendant. they all
seem to hang an black ribbon. One
of the cleverest eitects is produced
by tortoise shell studded with
rhinestones. ”What appears to be
onyx is used with rhinestone urns-
meat.
Some of the new robs are made
from cut-steel letters that spell
the name of the wearer. These
are mounted with black ribbon
and sometimes end With a heavy
bend or two.
Women are apparently so inter-
ested in this fad for ioba that they
are ransacking old Jewelry boxes
to and tube worn in days gone by.
At any rate, several jewelers re-
port that they have had several
such (obs brought to them for re-
pairs or resetting.
Sometimes the new fob has
nothing to do with a watch. it
simply fastens with a pin or is
sewed into position. 0n the new
suits they are worn sometimes
hanging at a b 2 pasta. again
at a. hip pocket. One attractive
fob tastening by means of a silver
pin shows a silver slide on the
black ribbon. The slide is per-
lorated with Chinese letters which
show biach against the ribbon.
The end or the pendant is a simple
band of silver. ;
Genuine satienes in the way of
labs are closed by some of the
alto”. So muoh‘tha
better it you have a nonuine an-
tique at your own to use for this
purpose.
4—15
Oddly one the watch is some.
tima worn a the pocket end or
:the (oh and sometimes the watch
ihanss at the pendant end. One
:l'oh,»so-a.lled. was attached with
la. pin studded with rhineston’ on. A
buck W hunt down with a.
tiny watch atteched to the end by
way a! _pendant._
Rhinestones are used in many
of the tabs. One shovu a rhino.
stone pin at them. a rhinestone
beige tones. are also seen.
give
So—called eompou suits
frees tiny pocket in belt of skirt.
_end and a rhinestone slide.
A: right, you of two doth, with
blue handkerchief stutter dotted in
red and ion. The hot flares up at
front and is trimmed with white
taxed. .1: Jr!‘t:'a striped silk nest
and a rufflcd white blouse with a
high collar and block tie. m n
my directm‘re look to the Rock
suit.
Odds anoErlds
of Fashion
PLAITED SHIRT FRONTS marl:
many of the new blouses. both for
sports and tor more elaborate dress-
ing. The material of the blouse is
laid in tine plalts. bound about with
a cord in a deep oval ontlm, and
then set on the front of the blouse.
EFF-OR THE COAT SUIT there are
crsvats made of the same material
that goes into' the big neckerchiets
that are worn as stocks. These
cravnta. however, ‘are tar denier to
manipulate. for they are cut with
a narrow center and flaring ends.
Just right (or binding about the5
neck and folding at the trout.
LACE COLLAR AND CUFF
am that may be worn with any
track “are decidedly attractive, and
come in prices that rammend
them to my puree. Theygtre m
otau aortsotlacesoftenotm
sorts combined. and sometimes with
narrow bleak ribbons that tie about!“
‘vvrist or throat. ‘5.
SMALL SlLK T . , arcan-
plied in rows to (rock: and
coats Ommtneweoatmnn
rows of little tn-els planed about
an inchaperttotountrhnminzee
sleeves and shove the hem.
VERY FINE PLEATiRG is based
both by milling-s 'and We".
Narrow- pleatlng of this sort in need
seen as trimming on was or the
new paranob. '
‘1
it
O
l
I. u cf, I :1: it‘T' 1:}. {If/J"
t Reigns S'premW’IwfiiN Fashions
FACT OF .
FASHION
”sumac-assum-
much soot-a d as v.7
smartsndm-nym
makers addendum-0.-
ttortheoemtngaaanon—dlk
MW.
There in a. big demand resell
sorts of labrica with m.
In the collections at gowns
Mb! theFrechdreasmakars
letethlawinter muchwoolgepun
was“. Itisshowninthangw
o! Frenchdreaemakersand
“whetoneaoaata-m
Mhaeinthisoountryhlaah
mummm n.
MWntroektcthe
yoangglrlwhoanectsthemode
o: “doubts
as much demand as ever.
evening. silk crepe has no rival.
WLLINERY
GOSSIP
R the rather formal list a
very good enact is produced
by combining transparent
crowns and brine ot straw. In
black and blonde tones this is rec—
ommended by one or the leading
mfltiners. l'or the woman with
lustrous brown hair a way becom-
inghatismadewlthahrimot
an. “raw and a crown or brown
lace or net.
The woman with a dare tor
trimming her own hats will be in-
.terested in sets consisting of hat
and soar: that some or the French
milliners have sent to this coun-
try. C'hey would be such simple
things to copy. One of these sets
is described as consisting of a wide
scar! made a: royal blue geomtta
edged with a‘ fringe made of
metching willow ostrich- The hat
is a smll cloche covered with the
matte trimmed with n lint
fancy of the ostrich. Another set
is made of red crepe with trim-
} min: or looped wool in red.
Lem printed With an
mind its the W book. With
WmMs.ceneamenr-ned‘ ,as
per: of the M‘otreinflnence. The
one her-r m is of press, with
smflhmm
"that anomaly is still
n. navy blue cloth emerald-
ered in navy blue. showing man}
eyekts, is warmer a white or
bright cdored foundation. \
Rows of NARROW LACE goth-
esedcpleaudsrenaedonhntsand
frocks. he crowns o! blacklists
are covered with gating-ed narrow
has. Quitenowisthetrtckofem-
been worked with m! bends
helium; lanes with beads. White ..
lfiimfiownoatznlof '
‘m‘tawor. mi: of rhinestones
* sat
uwwm --~ mum. w...n»-....».m.m mamas“. . .. .M ...
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