1! r.“ 3 ‘if ,_ ‘ rance Suggests To ‘ tailored suit by treating it nminesnmmpg. right. it deserves distinction. which it rarely gets. We act as though it were a poor relation to the richer gowns in the closet. It is given any kind of a blouse. any hat will do (or it. the oldest shoes are worn with it. it goes about in the rain and snow. while better (rm-ks hang in muslin begs eweitlng rm-mel occasions. motor care. and sunshine. All this is to be changed. France brought to our attention the shabby treatment we have given this kind of dress. which, above all ..thers, is supposedly 100 per cent American. Just as Perla has shown the Londoner whet e very alluring and frivolous thing an umbrella can 1», instead of en ua‘ly, serviceable rainy-day thing that one hated to rim-y. she is trying to prove to Amrrica that her own type of cos— (lime in more than a passably good thing: that it has dash. charm. style. Therefore. 'it hes a new in- ternatlon. it is given a chance to play a ill-tor role than it has done for sev- w .i wars. Days were when it car- r‘u-i an ornamental blouse after we ml graduated from the wash shirt- “‘filfil. Such days have returned, hit, curiously enough, not through «to French influence. it appears int there will be a wide divergence l-ciwren the Paris end the New York runner. We intend to widen the Fi'fipo oi the coat end skirt. including 1: among the costumes that are not limited to one kind of ueuege. ONE can do anything with a when ladies existed. n colorful overblouse. be i Overbioueee Meke Costumes. The nverhlouse makes this possi- lr.,~ its glories end attractions are mo tempting to limit it to the sepa- rate skirt. or to hide its light under . r‘C-al. Let the rule be what it may -nccrnlng a lady remoVing her coat public to appear in ehirtslceves, she will break it. Once she was still a lady. even though she took off her coat in the very eye and teeth of the public. end those were days the street. hie “on" .g. f r:—:j L: — he. . z, . , . ‘fJ ot flapper-s. Indian silk. gold-embroidered crepe do chine, silver tissue with colored If she wears an expensive and monogram. Persian brocade. she in- t or printed tends to show it. A iig for what : J t —:~ 4* ’ ,,4_4I._.. ,4 Dressed Womo Bl] Anne Riiienhon‘se America a Return To Mannish Tailored Suits constitutes sledy. She is right. The fit and finish of the overblouse makes her right. ‘ Whenthe Jacket is removed she appears in an excellent semblance of a one-piece frock. It is only un- der these conditions that the coat comes on. With e tucked-in shirt- weist of wash silk. with an embroid-‘ cred dimity sport waist. the Jacket stays on. Realizing these rules. every women tries to make the over- ‘ blouse do its full duty by taking on Indian printrd silk stock collar u'orn with black tailored suit for The hat is of silk plush with more of a brim than usual, the ribbon crown band tied at back in a stiff bow and the front decorated with a slide of cut silver initials. the coloration of the suit. It is.permissible to imitate a tail- ored suit with a one-piece frock that carries the brilliancy of an over- blouse as its tap portion. but the newer idea is not to do this. It is the incoming of the genuine tailored suit. not its imitations. that makes for news. We have had much of the so-cailed three-piece suits. We like a bit more variety. It is rather stimulating to put on a different kind at waist for various hours and opportunities. ’ This is easily done with the pres- ent three-quarter coat, sometimes embellished with peltry at its hem, certainly at its neck and wrists, Sacquc suit for morning hours 3 days. Furthermore. these jackets or the near future are 'cut on straight underarm ’linee, except by those who insist upon being diaer- ent from their fellow-women. Such insurgent individuals nip. the under- arm seam into the pretence of a curve and flare the hip past 01 the jacket into a faint. suggestion of crinoline. There is no doubt that both these features of fashion will obtrude themselves upon us. copied Frets Men's Garments. Masculine is the coat. feminine are the accessories, is the creed. Fiance copied the present jacket from the loose lounging coat worn by the men 0: that nation. ' its underarm seams ere plumb from shoulder to hem. its erml.oles are small end snugly fitted high into the armpits, the lapels’ and collar are well-known accessories to men's coats. there are three buttons above the waist or three below it, and real pockets are placed at each side, one at. the breast. With- such a Jaunty jacket goes built of wool velour in deep beige. ..i}\\" 14.1, \ u,— Thc new kind of tailored suit from Paris which has a coat fash- ioned on the lines of a man’s Jacket for the morning. skirt without ornamentation, the jacket has long manniah sleeves and A while “modesty piece" shows in the opening as A white gardcnia is in the lapel. rovers, also pockets. substitute for blouse. are applied to theI upper pocket. "sfi "" Three silver initials are placed on a band a] black [dale ribbon to serve as a pocket lab on a strictly tailored street or sport skirt. Such fobs have been revived by the French women, and are expected to go well over here. It has a short Initials in silver \ able oxford ties to such masculine severity. The ornate type of Ex?!» Lian sandal is choeen. possessing such thickness that Cleopatra would have sent them to the backwoods. if there had been such in Egypt. Brown. the American Indian brown. is the leather for the street, matched with Indian stockings, which are preferred to the color known as “nude" this season. The Nipped-in Waist. . No doubt we shall see more of the curved jacket as the warm weather approaches. The extremists are at!- vancing the style now. The lines of the body are rather closely followed. giving the woman with a. moderatsc, iv small waist the chance to exploit it. The hip part is short and slight- ly flaring. the sleeves are long and tight, bone buttons fasten the fronts over the diaphragm. the lapel. are snugly cut and fitted. “'ith this jacket goes a. modesty piece of chiffon. lace, or muslin and lace. The blouse is omitted. This makes for economy. but no one can remove the coat. It is a. necessary part or the costume. The blouse- makers do not want these modesty pieces to be revived, which is nat- ural, but there is room enough in the world for both. Women who are thick in the upper part of the body are well pleased to see them return. They give a neat and trig line. Strange if we shouuid come back to what was once called "a fine figure of a women.” There are suf- The 10¢th is out like a man’s tweed coat with low double-breasted fes- Th. Simple. Mannlsh 3““- ti of just now The long lapel: show the front of a soft silk ricient suggu one it Abra—Cape salt for the South in My cloth copied alter the old Eno- ‘ "'h permeate with high collar of the cloth. The cops is um with Indian Muted crepe. The short skirt is plain and narrow. With it goes a Mack topper hat. At mac-razors: m: of black velvet for formal arter- rmon snore showing the modified Cambodian incite! with My side flodrnts. The high collar is trimmed with narrow bands of m. The Russian tween with as pointed me: is mm o! liliilliillilil"“7" ‘ , and". The wide outs carry bits of the some black [sale ribbon. testing and hip pockets. shirt with Munich collar and long turned up to a point in front. which gives it somewhat the air of I. protective wrap. It might be a top coat cut sh‘ort for reasons of weight and convenience. The in— coming short jacket, however, pre- sents more of a problem. It will cause some wrinkling of the brow. This newer garment has nothing of the well-worn jumper jacket in its make-up. It stirs the memory of those who once wore covert cloth jackets with separate skirts of dark blue serge and mannish shirts of ‘striped madras or wash China sil- Tlmsc were times when women he waists and wore corsets and were proud of both. caring naught that , curving hips swelled outward. W'ill such figures arrive with the revival of the jackets? Hardly. Fashions change too quickly for figures to change with them. Diaphragms and waists are not under control these m sill; cravat. The salt felt hat is the most severe skirt, almost too narrow to step in, short enough to show a. goodly portion of the trans- parent stocking in a light color. swung to a. camisole top as a. rule. unless one is afraid to cut at! all chance of wearing a tuck-in shirt— waist. It is often made of black or rust velvet, a. material that. was not considered proper for the walking suit in other times. but no one pays attention to creed and code of the preceding generations. Pearle were once kept for gain occasions. but now they are worn to business, which is a striking example of what. not to do, but what everyone does. Patent pumps with immense silver buckles placed below stockings thtt closely resemble flesh are 'es ,fre- quent on highways and byway. es Tore black iisle and sturdy boots in tea capricious days. There is another kind of tailored costume which is beginning to serve all ages for the morning hours. It is what we were accustomed to wear when the muline suit was the na- tional uniform. The fabrics chosen are soft and flexible. dark or light. of sturdy tweed or homespun. Fur is usually omitted. The skirt is of the prevailing type. which is pro-war in its simplicity and abbreviation. The loose sacque coat has narrow shoulders, long sleeves with ttons at wrist, two but pockets. an no belt. Remem- ber. there are no belts with any suit. That accessory is laid on the shelf. With such a. suit goes a crepe de chine blouse with square neck and long sleeves, trimmed with rows of openworlt; that is, if one is conven- tional. But if one accepts new things quickly. the choice is a striped tub silk with turnover collar and waist-length cravat oLtbe fabric. or of silk to match the colored stripe. No one attempts to add service- among the clothes with the Oriental straight line to make the expert watch straws. The Mannieh Shirt Appears. Tub silk fmcks'hav‘e been offered for the warm dimes in winter months, therefore it was natural that plain and platted shim of the same fabric should follow. They go with the loose eecque coat and narrow skirt built of homespun or tweed. Many of these «try the starched white collar, rather narrow, of the Gibson Girl period. The long eravat takes precedence over others. Everywhere among new models there is evidence the ' are to be revived. There are white linen shirts with finely pleited bosoms to vex the laundress. They have plain sleeves with turnover coils and extending collar with starch in it. Link cu!!- buttons are revived.” play their old part in the scheme of dram.
Norwalk Chronicler