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Thrre-quorter coat of dark green velvet dtcoroted with deep cups I
res
the arm. Sleeves do not hail!
"willy from a lowered opening.
They are wide at the wrist under
Chinese influence. but they donot
end in cloth cuffs carelessly turned
back. They end in muff cuffs.
those extravagant bands of paltry
that: give the Occidental the
chance to protect the hands from
weather as does the Oriental.
When the arms are down. these
cuiis seem to be hip protectors:
the gloves vanish in them.
_ Comfortable, old-fashioned muffs
of fur are back in fashion simply
because ‘ these Chinese sleeves
took so much glory to themselves
and won the ladies. But a muff
must match the fur used on th
coat. Therefore, it is not easy.
find one in the trunks of forgotten
things that will bear the"test'of
accompanying the new coat. _To
pay for mun costs on the coat and
a separate muff. too, is a burden.
Sleeves Absorb ‘the Designer
It is not possible to treat new
sleeves in a fragmentary way.
They are too important. The re-
vival of the small armhole in costs
and frocks makes for trouble.
The drooping armhole was a
careless invention. relieving tail.
era of anxiety. More thanthat. it
permitted any woman to wear any
garment if the length was right.
The fit of the back and shoulders
was negligible. Not so with the
titted armhole. The- ,whole ap-
pearance of the garment changes.
The figure is more clearly out-
lined. the fitting has to be 100 per
cent perfect. - s‘
This change makes it harder
for the ready~to-wear trade to
please women without much alter-
ation of the garment. ‘It makes
it more dimcult for a woman to
so into a store without a protec-
tive coat and emergeswith one.
But it's the” fashion. Therefore.
we will obey. As it is a graceful
silhouette for the American figure
it should be welcomed, despite
the work it entails. . p .
The slim and trim effect of the
upper part of the body gains in
power. As an offset to the cir-
cular movement of skirts, the
‘ flaring godets at sides. it is neces—
sary. If woman bulged from
head to heels. she would be gro—
tesque. _
There is no demand that a
sleeve should keep its narrowness
after it leaves the armhole. It
"B11 {Anne iiienhouse
» W [92.33 713W New We.
.
leg-o-mutton shape. for instance.
is confined to soft gowns. The
glove sleeVe with its extravagant
bending of peltry below and above
elbow does not use a wrap for its
setting
What of Threoquartcr Coats?
The trade talks much of costs
that- e not full length. They
are d as parts of street suits.
also as wraps, and they are chasen
foniboth purposes, sometimes to
the sorrow of the buyer.
The trouble one encounters with
such abbreviated wraps is in
matching them to one’s frock. A
goodly portion of those frocks
show below the hem of the cost.
All colors do not harmonize.
Rarely does a brown coat appear
otherwise than ugly when worn
over a black gown: s. beige and
blue coat does not look well over
a grey frock. So it runs. One is
up against a dozen misalliances’in
the course of a week. For that
reason one should be wary in
choosing a three-quarter coat.
No problem of color matching
arises with the full-length co‘at. It
looks as though it were one. Slim
and straight it drops plumb from
If. ‘.
The American adaptation of the Cambodian jacket Invented by Cie-
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brown velvet, the ”plants
shell button holds the‘
and rollar a] cable squirrel. It muses the [mat to faster: at ose side
rim! is as slim. as as eel. Below the waist there is o geowwtricol design
in mrfrillic rmbroidery. The green velvet ”0016 acorn “Mk? if M8 a
bowl of squirrel at hem which gives the appearance 0! balsa attached
to flu: coat. ,
91*, in Paris, for American buyers.
Wed French garment. This one is in
emerged in two tiers, unstiflened. One tortoise
fronts. The My); collar is of beaver.
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and butter. or ice cream and
cake. according to the appe-
tite to buy a new coat. Autumn
it: the season of sacrifice for sar-
ONE must economize on bread
tnrial glory in winter. The canny
housekeeper finds that the reason
the willing servant of October is
the vanished servant of December
x< that she has made enough
money to get a winter coat. The
tearful and fretful woman who
paid her last instalment for a fur
jacket on the hottest day of
August is ”not an isolated indi-
vidual. .
There are some costs that last
through three seasons. giving a
woman surceases from anxiety.
but their serviceability does not
alloy the gnawing desire in her
1:1sz to have a newer and a diff
forent garment. We could reform
clothes in the twinkling of an eye
if we could reform ourselves. But
we can't. So there's an end of
dress reform.
"Why can't you wear those
riolhes you bought year before
last?" asks the gentleman who
governs the dress allowance.
"Why do you raise a rumpus
about lamb chops three times a
week on the dinner table?" au-
swers the lady who governs the
cuisine.
Weariness with what we have
is the impulse behindthe trade of
the world. _ .-
:TheDiflerenceinCoats
Looking broadly. there does not ~
appear to be a vast deal of diner-
ence between what we have worn
and what we desire. Examination
proves there are suillcient subtle
changes. These beguile and tempt
us to new purchasing.
The coat that wraps about the
bOdy like the shawl of an Eastern
dancer. holding itself tale!!!” by
one button on one “hip. is seen
everywhere. It we! worn last
winter. so the economists. argue
that it is in good style this winter.
And it is. One who is bound to
wear what they pool“ can cover
any frock with this cost provided
it has a collar easily converted
into a choker around the neck or
into revers that rest all the chest.
The high collar is the sign of a
new garment. it is' rendered in
Mr more often than cloth audits
height is snmcient to eclipse what
:9 left visible 0! the head b! “16
hat.
The new season's coat dilers.
also. from its predecessor in the
rizo of its amholo. g t! 11ml“
and carefully fitted. Tbs-shoulder
seam no longer W 4,9" 93
The Chinese the!”
have immense MI.
3 .
For coat of squirrefidved sable
with. flaring gods“ of each side and
flat back and 1mm. The'alecves are
and! and long with the new my
cun‘stokeepthshadsm The
collar mounts to back of hat and
runs toiwaist is trout. It and the
cuts are of you” far.
can do anrone'of several things
to keep in the front» line of fash-
ion. if it takes.on.thes nese
dimensions ”it must he I! ' rated
with fur, embroidery. or designs
in cloth along the lower edge. sThe
art of applying 1:010er cloth in
primitive shapes is as old as dress day
and is revived with am. sThe
colors now used are soitsnd dull.
The gsyety of Russian gud‘mavie
”aided to the tar
varnish
screens. wantstobemsil-
lowed as list-clout. Them
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i‘
-‘ sun. . straight coat of black cloth
in the lovely American adaptation of
68W. The sleeves cover the
downs back like a slightest”; they
are embroidered with gold threads.
shoulder .seams to hem. hiding
whatever is beneath like a cloak
of charity: » ,
Colors That Await Winter
Amon‘ _ g the colors accepwd for
coats-ere rust. beige. plaids
oz subdued tones and taint mark-
lag: the rude and parish is
opined even for sport costuum.
Bust is the newer color and has
subset of' followars. although it
as andtahss a certain closeness of skin
to wear it. As the milestones it
freely for crock: and-inns. "its
makes for. gaciecsuoss. Itsis assholes as a day coat is waterways
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improvement on ' the
which. afterg'all, coeds the spacious
trmament fora aetflngfi- - ,
fraught with danger.
Some costs in this color have
winder a variety of names.
tions when afoot in the city. For
the late Autumn we have in this
country. which in the southern
states stretches into early Spring.
_ this rust shade is quite enchant-
ing. It blends with Autumn foli—
age better than any color we mod—
erns wear. It has enough red in
it to look like a frost-bitten leaf
and it brings a» nostalgia to city.—
folk for the men of burning
leaves in a hazy atmosphere. .
Timrhss not dimmed the luster
of black coats. In supple and dull-
finished fabrics they are good for
another. \f year, at any guess.
Most of them seem to be fash-
ioned of velvet or duvetuyn, but
the weavesjare American cloth
Ad-
’iulrable fabrics they are, of which
the makers should be proud. We
have gonh' far in fabric work and
dyeing and ask, mercy from no
quarter: ‘
In black coats there is often a
successful attempt to get color.
One such experiment produces a.
cape and scarf in addition to a
slim coat; which is killing three
birds with one stone. The scarf
is the fashion feature of the hour,
as you know. without which few
costs or gowns appear pe acted-
the cape invented by Ch cl as a
bit'of bravado has d‘ecid’ to stay
quite a while. ‘This particular coat
that accomplishes so much is of
supple black cloth with a single
fastening-at side and a high col-
lar of the material which stretches
out intolung ends that throw over
the; shoulders and hang into a
cape at‘ back. They are brilliantly
embroidered above the heme with
gold threads. '
The scarf is" an adjunct of im-
portance to the jacket that is part
of .a suit. It iiiis in the hiatus
between revere and chin and takes,
the place of the tiny’fur animal
of meant Autumns. It is made of
the suit material with fringed
ends. Evening "gowns carry their
own scarfs. sometimes oftwo op-
posing,materials.:’hoth unsuper-
ent., Therm not worn as shoul-
.der m; The neck in their
resting place.“: one endis thrown
across the shoulder. ' The-sport
mums: is the source of inspire-
tion. '4, , - '
Another start to vary the black
day coat is in thefiuse of white
furund black ribbon. Every other
biackxsrn'eut eras Autumn has
ermine or itssnhstitate for decora—
tion, but «secure it. we care
_ _ metalmt our neighbors have it.
afi"immntmgrwm“ and huge , ‘ , 4
m knee'length‘eoat- J wins out
, *forsths tailored suit. "Women must
show caution in choosing the line
where the hem rests. All depends
on individual height and curva-
ture. No two costs can end the
same on two women. When one
is thin and hipless. such jackets
are very smart._ They carry a
straight and narrow skirt be-
neath; the sleeves, long and tight.
are placed in well-fitted armholes.
the lap in front is negligible. held
together by one large button at
neck and an invisible hook and
crochetted ring at waist. The
collar usually is lined with soft.
flexible for which turns over on
the surface for an inch. It is tal-
tened high for the street. turned
low under the roof. '
The Cambodian jacket. named
from the French Colonial W
sion. is bound to simmer down
into an established garment. It
has the earmarks of popularity
somewhat like the jumper jacket
expolited at Deanville well over a
year ago. The original garment
as fashioned by the house of
Cheruit. of Paris. is sensational
with its daring and stitched
godets at each side. making it ap-
pear even shorter than it is. The
American adaptation of it easily
meets the moderate American de-
mand. The flares at the hips are
merely two circular dounces set in
as an extra movement of material.
Despite the efforts to keep the
jumper jacket alive, it is apparent
that it is dead as a first—class
fashion. Its stitchery is dead.
also, and the sash at the right hip.
The two coats of the season are
the modified Cambodian and the
three-quarter length with high
collar and small armhoies.
EvenlngOOIuMel-rediom
It may be the Chinese influence
again that tempts us into coats
for winter nights; At least..they
are the fashion. Volumineus far A
capes holds. powerful place and
cost a pretty price. but other gar-
ments usually have sleeves. The
Oriental brocades are plentifnny
used, especially in red, gold. black
and dull yellow. Black and id
together:make a good ecology
tion. Hotel cloth comes in with
other Oriental mggestions. Vel—
vet, es in green. tapas,
Peking bl black,“ the best
choice after for and brocade; ‘r
The silhouetteof the «sung
coatis a twinvto, the day coat.
go to make the
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Norwalk Chronicler