Bare-
AMBACKED we'go into eve-
ning life this winter. Into the
streets we go forth so purposely
concealed that we resemble Arctic
esplorers. It is not easy 'to tell
friend from too. i
In days when knights went. abroad
in armor it was the custom to
lift the visor of the metal helmet
when meeting a friend. Such was
the origin of lifting the hat on the
street to an acqiiaintance. Women
may have to. go back to these
knightly days. it would save much
annoyance and curiosity if we should
lift the riser of the eloche a bit as
we entered the presence of those
who are not reckoned fees.
In it s. reversal in our minds as in
clothes to the medisevel that makes
Evening gown with deep V-shapvd
dccolletage back and front. The
chest is covered with flesh-colored
chino». which ends in. a metallic
ornament with deep Moo.
us' determined to hide all ohms to
our indentity during the day hours?
Not content with the concealment
given by ths,visored,cloche, we add
a scarf veil or pcssiblyaiacemasqm
across the eyes. In addition we
wear the hide of every animal that
goes to the traps or-once went to
the public garbage heap. And we
use fur in such profusion that die-
tinguishing marks. such as eyes,
nose, chin and hands are quite con-
cealed. One must know us by our
backs. There is no effort at can-
cealment of that part of the anat-
omy. ‘ .' .
ln-dsy hours our clothes hang
closely and limply against our bodies
from neck to hem. Boltless. wrinkle-
‘less, .w-lthout shred of ornamenta-
tion we turn our backs to the world.
Some are god to look upon. chers
need concealment. No one“ cares
how many curves caOort in front.
but.not one must showin the back.
What nature has. left undone. cut-
ters and corsets must do.
on, so More“ in tho Even!“
From Arctic explorers and visored
knights. we turn intoOrientals when
the sun goes down; "sharp is the
change one' would think‘ we" had
heard the‘ wsilirh call from the
mueuin toweu and» turned our’fnces
tom sues. not even ‘a head.
dress concesls “I: shape of the
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shingled head. Gowns-re lowered
to show shoulders and a goodly por-
tion of the spinal colfimn. Arms are
bare. except for slave bracelets.
which continue in fashion, especially
when worn above the elbow. There
is little or no drapery to disguise the
lines of the body. The Oriental slip
is the ideal frock for evening gayew.
Oriental flesh is. happily. not our
ideal. The restaurant men insist
that the madness for thinness is the
cause of their diminishing receipts.
not prohibition. Interesting; don't
you think?
Desire for exceptional elimness
has brought into fashion the pins-
foro underslip of our Mothers.
Those who once traded well in pet-'
.ticoats and later deplored.thcir dis-
appearance have- reason to rejoice.
The French adopted this form of
undergarment when rthey discarded
corsets, but their example plus the
persuasion of the fnhion writers
ll
a...
es .
Metallic tissue. georgette crepe.
chiffon. even exquisitely nne muslin
and lace are chosen for this orna-
mental camisole. They show through
all the openings of the bodies. They
make possible the simplest evening
sons which open under the arms
and are held together at the shoul-
der seams. .
There is a revival of lace for such
camisoles. Black, white, colored lace
will do. The extremists do not line
it. Conservatines do. Thin chiffon
or tulle is best.
Rivals of the Bataan Neckline
The simplicity of most of our
s. k"
‘4'- ,
Embroidered velvet gown but in. the newly revived deep back decol-
lctage with. a colored tulle collar ending in a huge bow at back. .
made no impression upon the trades
people who supply our necessities.
The gradual acceptance of the
camisole skirt came along with the
cage, acceptance of the pinafore un-
derslip. Now we delight in both
garments, putting the latter beneath
our slender chemise evening frocks
and over the slightly boned girdle
corsets that leave the diaphragm as
free as any Oriental dancer could
desire.
No matter what the shape of the
evening frock. it is cut low in the
back. In front it may rise to the
collariiione. which is an exceptional
shaping. not wise for the majority.
“'e have released ourselves from the
thmll of the high evening gown. -
The harness of colored crystals
once worn by the audaciously low
frock is not revived. Whatever the
depth of the decolletago it leaves the
back unadorned. Not even the sun-
burn powder of last season servos
as a. covering. The whiter we are,
the better.
The shape of the fashionable back
decolletage is V or U. ‘It still goes
to the a bet for inspiration. The;
edge of e frock is left to imalf.
Galloon scratches. Bias facings of
tulle are quickly disorderly. The
edge of the fabric is turn in. then
blind-stitched or pasted left to
rest against the flesh. This is the
artistic way to arrange a decolletage.
Anything ' added detracts from its '
grace. -
There is no objection tofiisplaying
a modesty piece of the kind invented
for the front decclletage. It is not
attached to the frock. It is part of
an ornamental camisole that holds
in the upper part of the body. Pos-
sibly it is the upper part of the un-
der-slip. The majority of evening.
gowns are built without lining.
They depend on the underslip to give
whatever concealment is needed.
a
clothes would suggest that the boat.
shaped neckline borrowed-from Ital-
ian VRenssesnce days be continued.
Not so. Everyone is .weery of it.
especially those who design fashions.
It has several rivals, which ppesr
on frocks that are not for ormal
evening wear, one of which, the
round neck. is a revival from the
fashions of the early nineteenth
century. It has been painted by the
great artists. who’ left colorful rec-
‘ords of English ladies of that pedal.
It is ‘used on overblouses as on
brocade night frocks. and is well
liked for the 10th gowns that sub-
stitute tailo, suits as actual win-
ter weather comes in .
\
The round neck 'is not dead,- it Is
shown here in a floating {rock of
sea green .georgette mp5 with a
scarf band of soft gray fur passing
over one shoulder. There are no
sleeves.
The square neck opening. s. tradi-
tional fashion for centuries. eng-
~ geratedly popular with the Edward’-
ian ladies. . was the extra deep V-
shaped opening in the back, is used
in several kinds of-afternoon frocks.
The passion for white ermine with
black cloth or velvet gives the dress-
makeru a chance to put an edge of
it between the fabric and skin. Half
the women of both continents seem
to be wearing this black and white
» combination. One' of the novel
Black satin gown for afternoon
parties has old-fashioned opening in
‘lront .wlih scarf of white ermine,
making the dominant combination
of this winter's iaehio'ne." ~
iii
. s
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H
whim» mm .
a . ,
The necklace of out crystal holds‘
in place the brocade bodice top.
which is out in_ pyramid ,slapC.
Ndflclaoesarc often used as a sup-
port lor the frock worn‘aftcr darts.
i
methods of arranging it combines a
slight handkerchief scarf of ermine .
it the edge of a deep U-shsped front
opening which is.high at back. Th}
scarf ends in two short streamers.
In the opening-is a modesty piece of
white lace.
Even black tailored suits' show
this straight across modesty piecesof
lace instead of a blouse. Only a
snug jacket. short and slim, buttoned
at the waist. needs it and carries it.
Leonora Hughes. the well-dressed
dancer. dresses thus. adding a white
gardenia. to the lapel. ..
This neat and old-fashioned sil-
houette in a tailored suit, by the
way, ‘r‘nust‘be regarded with interest.
It is bound to be a ruling fashion
next spring. it is prevalent in
France today. The new coats over
there are fashioned on the model of
a. Frenchman's. short cost. This
winter we will continue to wear the
loose sack coat of the Englishman.
but beware of a change after Easter.
The tight. flattening braesiere is
avoided by the French, who choose
the rounded bustline under the lace
modesty piece. That fashion. too.
will win out here when the fashions
are even more Directoire than at
present. Lanvin's three belts on
evening gowns. one un‘dsr the bust.
are signiflcent. Watch git-awe. than-
f
'mack velvet gown my am... with. Meat mums. no one.
new band collar is dropped to the am tops end tied with a custom“.
Beneath is adeep delta opening is
/ ‘ . ‘ ’
which the string pay lsdrop. ‘
At top is ’a heads evening frock is soft Chinese blue and gray cat
Monday ecross‘the body, high on one shoulder, low on the other. A
string of pink pearls holds one side in place. Below is the back of as
. ‘aflernoas frock in black velvet, which shows a most unusual decoactage.
It is deeply round, with ornamental spokes, in groups, which hold it to
a flezible handkerchief collar at bills of neck.
é
1M
. fl
"V.t‘.~ .
Abuses! left—Deep round decodetege similar to these or olden dew.
.n u’eeesty out back and front, finished with a seated roll of soft silver
tissue. Theseokloosisacoioredsuken cord Wagjado'pesdaststo
match an as, «Mugs. AWEm e the ages; of curmu- a. _
the high neckline pulledsquarely across the oollarbone outfield in place
with short brood rims. of the red and gold brocade, of which the frock
ism Morenosleeves, butrlaoe bracelets drawers as substi-
tmo '
fore. Getthebestuse cfthe clothes
you po-ess. -
- Wheels Neckline
Two years ago e invent!!! '
amoetbeguilingnecklin sonaneve-‘
ningfrcck’ whichnow pears" asa
novelty, and s. gncdons’at‘ that. It
resembles a wheel wlth.ths base of
the necksstho'hub. The spoki es‘
thatxun tip-to this hub are crystal
bends. metal braid. embroidery on
'tulle.‘ or curious_ designs done in
rhinestones on velvet. Bonsai]:
tbs-e. 'spokuthebmaeckslem
fibrin.¢thewheolisfsrbelow
rev-.9
..e
s.
....a.—..._‘......
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.— v «moms-um -
Norwalk Chronicler