"Um
Three—quarter coat of dark green velvet decorated with deep oufls
and collar 0! sable squirrel. It cranes the front to fasten at one side
and in as slim as an eel. Below the waist there in a geometrical design
in metallic embroidery. The green velvet frock worn under it has a
bond of squirrel at hem which pit-cs the appearance of being attached
to the coat.
NE must economize on bread
0 and butter. or ice cream and
cake, according to the appe-
tite. to buy a new coat. Autumn
is the season of sacrifice for ear-
torial glory in winter. The canny
housekeeper finds that the reason
the willing servant of October is
the vanished servant of December
is that she has made enough
money to get a. winter coat. The
tearful and frctful woman who
paid her last instalment for a fur
Jacket on the hottest day of
August is not an isolated indi-
viduel.
There are some coats that last
through three seasons. giving a
woman sureeeaes from anxiety.
but their serviceebility does not
allay the gnawing desire in her
mind to have a newer and a dif-
ferent garment. We could reform
clothes in the twinkling of an eye
if we could reform ourselves. But
we can't. So there's an end of
dress reform.
"Why can't you wear those
clothes you bought year before
last?" asks the gentleman who
governs the dress allowance.
"Why do you raise a rumpus
about lamb chops three times e
week on the dinner table?” en~
awers the lady who governs the
cuisine.
Weariness with whet we have
is the impulse behind the trade of
the world.
The Diiference in Costa
Looking broadly. there does not
appear to be a vest deal of differ-
ence between whet we have worn
end whet we desire. Examination
proves there are sumcient subtle
changes. These beguils end tempt
us to new purchasing.
The coat that wraps about the
body like the shawl of an Eastern
dancer. holding itself together by
one button on one hip. is seen
everywhere. It was worn lest
winter. so the enonomists argue
that it is in good style this winter.
And it is. One who is bound to
wear whet they possess can cover
any frock with this cost provided
it has a collar easily converted
into a choker around the neck or
into rovers that rest on the chest.
The high collar is the sign of a
new garment. It is rendered in
fur more often than cloth and its
height is snflcient to eclipse what
is left visible of the head by the
hat.
The new season's coat diders
also, trons its predecessor in the
else of its armhole. It! is small
and carefully fitted. The shoulder
seem no longer droops down on
Day coat o! black. nel-
vet showmg cadets 4‘
sides in mafia! [01'1"-
The Chinese sleeves
have immense cufl’.
battlewsented
am. far is white ”use.
The decoration is m
”up gulp platted black
ribbon.
edge.
the arm. Sleeves do not ban!
limply from a lowered openina’.
They are wide at the wrist under
Chinese influence. but they do not
end in cloth cuffs carelessly turned
back. They end in mull cuifs.
those extravagant bands of peltry
that I give the Occidental the
chance to protect the bands from
weather as does the Oriental.
When the arms are down, these
cuffs seem to be hip protectors;
the gloves vanish in them.
Comfortable, olddashioned made
of fur are back in fashion simply
because these Chinese sleeves
took so much glory to themselves
and won the ladies. But a muff
must match the fur used on the
coat. Therefore. it is not easy to
find one in the trunks of forgotten
things that will bear the test of
accompanying the new coat. To
pay for muff coats on the coat end
a separate muff. too. is a burden.
Sleeves Absorb the Designer
It is not possible to treat new
sleeves in a fragmentary way.
They are too important. The re-
vival of the small armhole in costs
and frocks makes for trouble.
The drooping armhole was a
Bi; {Anne
-‘ Gunfight [£23 .bJIejlcaae Nw- W
ew Winter Coats
careless invention. relievin tell-
ora o anxiety. more than at. it
perm tted any women to wear any
garment if the length was right.
The lit of the back and shoulders
was negligible. Not so with the
fitted armhole. The whole at»
peerancs of the garment changes.
The figure is more clearly ont-
unsd. the fitting has to be 100 per
cent perfect.
This change makes it harder
for the hady-to-wear trade to
please women without much alter-
ation of the garment. It makes
it more dimcult for a. women to
go into a store without a.protec-
tive coat and emerge with one.
But it's the fashion. Therefore.
we will obey. As it is a graceful
silhouette for the American figure
it should be welcomed. despite
the work it entails.
The slim and trim effect of the
upper part of the body gains in
power. As an ofleet to the cir-
cular movement of skirts. the
flaring godets at aides. it is neces-
sary. If woman bulged from
head to heels. she would be gro-
tesque.
There is no demand that a
sleeve should keep its narrowness
after it leaves the armhole. It
Fer coat of squirrel-dyed sable
souls flaring godets at each side and
flat back and front" The sleeves are
small and long with the new mug
cage to keep the hands want. The
collar mounts to back of lust and
runs to waist in (mt. It and the
cuts are of venue IIH‘.
een do any one of several things
to keep in the front line of fash-
ion. If it takes on. the Chinese
dimensions it must be decorated
with fur. embroidery. or designs
in cloth along the lower edge. The
art of applying colored cloth in
primitive shapes is as old as dress
and is revived with success. The
colors now used are soft and dull.
The gayety of Russian and Slavic
decorations has yielded to the far
Orient. That is why we varnish
. wall paper‘ for lamp shades and
screens. Color wants to be mel-
lowed as if ancient. _ The fashion
makes for gacionaness. It is an
improvement on the rainbow
which. after all. needs the spacious
lrmement for a setting.
The various kinds of arm cover-
ings attempted in frocks and
blouses rarely appear in day and
evening coats. The revival of the
’
leg-o—mutton shape. for instance.
is confined to soft gowns. The
glove sleeve with its extravagant
bending of peltry below and above
elbow does not use a wrap for its
setting.
WofThreoqnas-term
The trade talks much of costs
that are not full length. They‘
are offered as parts of street suits.
also as wraps. and they are chosen
for both purposes, sometimes to
the sorrow of the buyer.
The trouble one encounters with
such abbreviated wraps is in
matching them to one's frock. A
goodly portion of those frocks
show below the hem of the coat.
All colors do not harmonise.
Rarely does a brown coat appear
otherwise than ugly when worn
over a black gown: a beige and
blue coat does not look well over
a grey frock. So it runs. One is
up against a dozen misalliances in
the course of a week. Eor that
reason one should be wary in
choosing a three-quarter coat.
No problem of color matching
arises with the full-length coat. It
looks as though it were one. Slim
and straight it drops plumb from
Slim, straight coat of black cloth
in the lovely American adaptation of
davctyn. The sleeves cover t
wrists, the collar covers the neck.
Scarf ends emerge from it to fall
down back like a slight cape; they
are embroidered with gold threads.
shoulder seams to hem. hiding
whatever is beneath like a cloak
of charity.
Colors Thee Await. Winter
Among the colors accepted for
day coats are rust, beige. ‘ _ds
of subdued tones and faint k—
ing: the rude and garish is
omitted even for sport costumes.
Rust is the newer color and hes
a host of followers. although it
takes a certain cleanness of skin
to wear it. As the tailors oler it
freely for frocks and suits. its
choice as a day coat is not always
fraught with danger.
Some coats in this color have
high mounting collars and huge
cuffs of skunk. the common
variety with coarse heirs in light
beige and brown. fie one ob-
jects to wearingsnch combina-
mg
oney me Purse
The American adaptation a; the Cambodian Jacket invested by alle-
nilt, in Paris; for American buyers.
Ituoasiertowearthantheee-
eagerated [Wench garment. This one is in brown velvet. the peplawts
arranged in two tiers. unetiflcncd.
One tortoise shell button holds the
fronts. The high collar is of beaver.
tions when afoot in the city. For
the late Autumn we have in this
country. which in the southern
states stretches into early Spring.
this rust shade is quite enchant—
ing. It blends with Autumn foli-
age better than any color we mod-
crna wear. It. has enough red in
it to look like a treat-bitten leaf
and it brings a nostalgia to city-
folk for the smell of burning
leaves in a hazy atmosphere.
Time has not dimmed the luster
of black coats. In supple and dull—
hnished fabrics they are good for
another half year, at any guess.
Most of them seem to be fash—
ioned of velvet or duvetuyn. but
the weaves are American cloth
under a variety of names. Ad-
mirable fabrics they are, of which
the malt rs should be proud. We
have gé far in fabric work and
dyeing d ask mercy from no
quarter.
1n black coats there is often a
successful attempt to get color.
One such experiment produces a
cape and scarf in addition to a
slim coat. which is killing three
birds with one stone. The scarf
is the fashion feature of the hour.
as you know. without which few
coats or gowns appear perfected;
the cape invented by Chanel as a
bit of bravado has decided to stay
quite a while. This particular coat
that. accomplishes so much is of
supple black cloth with a single
fastening at side and a high col-
ler of the material which stretches
out into long ends that throw over
the shoulders and bang into.a
he cape at back. They are brilliantly
embroidered above the horns with
gold threads. -
The scarf is an adjunct of im-
portance to the jacket that is part
of a suit. If. fills in the hiatus
between revere and chin and takes
the place of the tiny fur animal
of recent Autumns. it is made of
the suit material with, fringed
ends. Evening gowns carry their
own searfs. sometimes of two op-
posing matcriels. both transpar-
ent. They are not worn as shoul-
der drapery. The neck is their
resting place. One end is thrown
across the shoulder. The sport
mullet is the source of inspira-
tion.
Another effort to vary the black
day coat is in the use of white
fur and black ribbon. Every other
black garment of the Autumn has
ermine or its substitute for decora-
tion. but as we like it. we care
not that our neighbors have it.
mmm‘wmu
-" one knee length coat wins out
tailored suit. Women must
. \sr
show caution in choosing the line
where the hem rests. All depends
on individual height and curva-
ture. No two coats can end the
same on two women. When one
is thin and hipless. such Jackets
are very smart. They carry a
straight and narrow skirt be—
neath; the sleeves. long and tight.
are placed in well-fitted ermholee.
the lap in front is negligible. held
together by one large button at
neck and an invisible hook and
crochetted ring at waist. The
collar usually is lined with soft.
flexible fur which turns over on
the surface for an inch. it is fes-
tened high for the street. turned
low under the roof.
The Cambodian jacket. named
from the French Colonial posses-
sion, is bound to simmer down
into an established garment. It
has the earmarks of popularity
somewhat like the Jumper Jacket
expolited at Deauville well over a
year ago. The original garment
as fashioned by the house of
Cherult. of Paris. is sensational
with its flaring and stiffened
godets at each side. making it ap-
pear even shorter than it is. The
American adaptation of it easily
meets the moderate American de-
mand. The flares at the hips are
merely two circular fiounces set in
as an extra movement of material.
Despite the efforts to keep the
jumper Jacket alive. it is apparent
that it is dead as e first-clear
fashion. Its stitchery is dead.
also, and the cash at the right hip.
The two coats of the season are
the modified Cambodian and the
three-quarter length with high
collar and small armholcs.
Evening Coats Muted to COD“
It may be the Chinese influence
again that tempts us into coats
for winter nights. At least. they
are the fashion. Voluminous fur
capes hold a powerful place and
cost a pretty price. but other ger-
meats usually have sleeves. The
Oriental brocadee ere-'plentifully
used. especially in red. gold. black
and dull yellow. Black and it
together make a good comb
tion. Metal cloth comes in with
other Oriental suggestions. Vel-
vet. especially in green. tapes.
Peking blue, black is the best
choice after fur and brocade.
The silhouette of the evening
coat is a twin to the day coat.
Many animals go to make the
decoration at here, neck. wrists.
Belts are unknown. They do not
appear anywhere. The lining is
plain as the outer “flees is too
decorative to admit of gay eolorae-
tion beneath.
V
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Norwalk Chronicler