0 iii] J CU i f- [E Bi (:7 L] 'i i l .1 J UL [. l? "8’ . i3] ljl'l Cl ii i _l d I if]?! i: Sign i i ‘. N E E7“ U i3 i i 7 (I ~l a p W’i 3,17 3 :7! L i ii .1 'IC .J U it i ,,..Jl sf" The Length of YounSkirt Depends on the Hour of the Day More Than On Any Arbitrary Decree of Fashion. HERE are seemingly no new T thrills in be gained from short. skirts and few from long ones. 'f‘hv very short skirt became too dairl. and apparently the long one I Ilnwll‘ig it became too long. There .- still more. chance of causing heads lw turn and eyes to turn by wearing, skirt that barely escapes the tin-mil than by wearing one nearer 7P1" knot‘s than the ankles. luu may hRVe observed that C i: and trailing skirt may be worn mu :m immldently as a very short The other day an audacious mam: woman walked through the “only nt‘ u conservative old town wearing a skirt that touched the mnml at one side. Men smiled and s ,rgmrl. and Mrs. Grundy felt some~ Mm that it was very indecent. A 'nl‘l skirt would have seemed in- : '.:ivl_\' more modest. il'runt‘t‘ took up the very short '-.‘.l'[ iirst, and we Americans as- .mvl our); other that we would v«\t‘l‘, never wear short.sklrts-—at . tar smh short skirts. In due time rnrgut nur prejudices and fol- i\\i‘tl suit. 'l‘hen having fairly ”whml the short skirt in America. l‘ mm turned about and began .. . in“: very long skirts. We looked w .tllll prnllnunccd them ugly. We \' . :n suin- that we would never Wear They were, tiowdy, and com- .«l “till the low waist they were -..;m,tlt.;ihly ugly. But again we ~ng our prejudice and followed Anti nnW back again switches l'- .:.~- in favor of a shorter skirt. .‘tt‘l’i’lrllll‘lg to the best Judgment question of the length of skirts of} ill: lunger he an absorbing one. i'nr the simple reason that you may :rnv wcnr almost any length skirt ;,r~.; wish and still be in the fashion. Ia‘t'rl wrath tunic embroidered in cold Ihrrad. worn with short narréw mi irt of black velvet. linny Of the dressmakers in Paris ~Dou lilct especially—have shown Skirts as short as eleven inches from two ground. The same dressmakers, however. also show the long skirt. :timnst always the long skirt is for H'cnlng or formal afternoon. while the short skirt is for street and Film-t wear. The sketch shows a. street frock mm A skirt that is not only short, i it very scant as well. This skirt is ,.f ltinck velvet, and over it is worn n tunic of red cloth embroidered in all". gold thread sud tied at the back “ i‘h narrow black ribbon. H You Would Dru: With Distinc- tion Add a Frill or a Jabot to Your Severely Simple Frock or Coat. have much patience to adopt . the new fashion for frills and fehs of butlste. org-mile end idea that are now offered I: We! to dark suits and frocks for the street. Undoubtedly-it was because war ronditions brought the necessity for mJimmy of time and money that the fashion for wearing dark frock! with no relief of frill or rucbs or Mimi :‘it the neck ’or throat became ”Milly rooted. The fashion mit' r'ri. as all easy fashions do persist. As long as no one else took the iron- Me to wear these little 'daintiel ‘of “We or organdle or bstiste, we saw no reason why we should go to the trouble and expense ourselves. Eventually. however” the tuition for going frilllels is your!“ out and many smart Imet frockl of black or navy blue of the.mom¢nt have some sort of frill or Jobot of lace.- or organdie or bath“. The sketch shows 3. naVY' 51“. 'lm‘etyn coat frock trimmed with «ilk braid With o white trill-st. the new-k that extends to tin-wept. (1'5! friil also shows where (I‘m ‘8 slit at the wrist. Noam. In.” this is not 3 mode my!!!” strongly to the young m. who works in on once five or six. or I AC‘KlNG a. full purse. one must seven hours a. m. Much io- fs‘ it ‘ the dress for-tho wanna who and: Nai'y bluc dutch/n coat, frock trimmed with silk braid. A white lingerie frili forms collar and ex- tend: to waist. wlches in social engagements with the supervision of her children and her household. Those wrist frills would precludesny sort of manual work almost as sticcessfully as the long nails of a Chinese gentleman. Sad, but true, many of the inhale and frilled fronts for suits and street frocks show a. collar that is high, if not directly in the front. then at the side and back. “'9 have been as- sured ever since the first showing of autumn and winter clothes that the ciosing.i.n of the neckline was one of_ the new and significant. ten- dencies seen in the new clothes. One interesting development of this vogue for white frills may be I. return a? fashion of slut-ch. For years the- starch box reigned in the head of her' class. There were little tricks that only, she knew about sending up snowy, glossy, crisp ruf- fles and flounces from the starchy depths of the laundry. -Then for years starch was in—well. almost in disrepute. It may return. = THE HOUSEHOLD f some by ANNE RITTENHOU“ a!!! CARD PARTY DAINTIES. ERVE plain cakes. with apple. sauce and ice cream. This cell. for freshly made applesauce. which should have been put. through the vegetable press. Put some pinin vanilla ice cream in the bottom of a. sherbet cup. then two tablespoons of the applesauce. and on top of this a. heaping tablespoon of slightly sweetened whipped cream. This is delicious served with coffee. For refreshments at a. smsll 1nd informal cord party ’slightly buttered slices of-nut bread served with hot chocolate topped with whipped cream is delicious. To make the nut bread use this recipe: Nut Breed. Scsld a. half-cup of milk and add a. half-cup of boiling water, a table- spoon of molasses and a tablespoon of butter. Let this become luke- warm. In the meantime dissolve a yeast cake in two or three table- spodns of lukewarm water and odd this to the liquid when tepid, adding a. half-teaspoon of salt and a. ton- spoon of sugar. Now add I. cup of pecan or walnut meats chopped and flour enough to knead and let it. rise u'ntil double its bulk. New knead it and divide into two or thr'ee’louvel and let it rise again. Then belts in a slow oven,for an hour. None of us eat as much fruit. as we should. A delicious refreshment for the late summer or early autumn cérd party consists of choice fruit. peaches, grapes, pears. plums; op- ples. etc. The fruit should be I:- ranged in attractive dishes. allowing one dish for each table. Then pass plate. fruit" knife and fork nnd. fruit napkin to each. guest. Finger bowls should. of course, follow. ”Peach shorthke with 60300 makes a. delicious refreshment dish for lot: summer or autumn card parties. Peaches my, be served in other M’ If you hove largo good'look- showing one) large peach for each person. ~Place a. half on each pinto» end till the pit space with a. mixture of choppedi nuts and berry jam._ Place peach halves on top.nnd,sprin_- tie with powdered sugnr and top twill! : e. "um. whipped Imfn de- shod. ~ Ibis on interestingdhingtbut-in munitio- whero the m of serving trunk-i vex-lone fonnrfor - perfectly ' nwful blow. ' took them off. laundry._ The ,laundresn wbg could _ do fine eta-cited work its share" in'g peaches peel and cut in halves. Lurit's latest?! demanded ‘ the Flapper, chuckling“ “Of coume. he ~and Lynn Fontannenre a. wonderful pair, and are nlways doing something just a. litile bltvdif— ferent from what everyone. else does. but—well. this is the most amusing thing yet. ’ "He went down to ~W’ashington to make a personal appearance in con- nection with the showing of one of his pictures. He didn’t. want to do it. and protested against going, but it was useless. ’ ‘ "W'hen he reached the theater, the man who was to introduce him wasn't there. But the audience was, so he had the*brillla.nt idea of intro- ducing himself. false whiskers and marched out onto the stage, He said all sorts of things about himself. assuring the audience that he didn't see why they should want to see this man Lunt in the flesh, and all that sort of thing. .Then he went off the stage, removed the whiskers, and returned as him- Ielf. thinking the audience would recognize him and laugh. "But they didn't. They took him seriously. That was an So he stalked to the wings. put on the whiskers. came back. talked a. moment or two, and He said a few words as himself. and put them back on PISA: SAYS— . 13y INEZ‘ KLUMPH , “‘DID You hear about Alfred He put on a. set of, , PE P again. ’ And then the audience and kept him doing it.’ "I don‘t .bisme. them; A mo'tlon picture ’actor with a sense of humor like. that is a-ra’re find, and _I'hope that. Alfred Lunt has started some‘ thing that "will 'rnnl'te personal up: pearances a little less deadly than they usually are. ' “I wish he and Lynn Fontsnne would play opposite tench other in‘ a. picture. Of course, Mimi Palmieni, caught- on, and roared with laughterr his present leading woman, is an. awful frost. and I don’t see why they go right “on having her play with him. Itis a case of a good leading man wanted. But then, t 9 ways of the producers tire strnn and mysterious, in most cases. aren‘t. they?" 9 . :- “Yet they make money," I remind- ed her. “That’s-the real test." “It's the test'of nothing but the ’ publlc's gullibiiity," the Flapper as- sured me sharply. minds—if Mae -Murrey doesn’t do so ething different from, . 'The Fren’ch Doll‘ pretty soon, she's not even going to make money any more. At the Capitol the other day a. lot of people came for the won- derful music and dancing and the short pictures, and left when ‘The French Doll! went on. And though I used to be ertizy about Mae Mury ray. I didn't blame them}: \ I MOLLY got out on the wrong'side of bed And Susie got out on the right: ' U Through all of the day Sue-was happy and gay. While Polly. found nothing quite right. Hodtvootberpcrm,Uppersidedovn.slongumofPolly;|q§ it down. aloe: quilt “And that re} ‘ 7 Xyou‘thful‘:%iri$f§mighty hail? ‘ . _ iron “AGE.” Say what you will. and luff or scold. L Cdno'ernin‘ life, and how you’ve found it, ~. , A man who's Kittin' old is old, There ain‘t no other wornround. “to p I - ' You talk about eternal youth, And keepin' young in mind and: ‘ spirit, ., - ‘ " But: age is age, and that's the truth, As folks will find the more they near it. I ain't discouragln' a bit The person. either man or woman. Who hide their-age and lat! at it And keep as happy and as human. But when it comes to liftln'—~weil, However much‘IWe talk and shout , it. Then age is age. and time will to“: My friends, their ain‘t two way-l about it. b - But yon- ~ ,bor, - . . You ain't thessame at sixty-nine, . You ain't as good at common labor. Whatever job the job may be, It takes, the younger folks to try it. ' At sixtyénine or empty We're old—end no one need deny it. 3. “'e've had our day, let's rest con-_ tent: ' We've had our work, and had o . plenty; . - . . But when we're wrinkledxgrsy and bent, ‘Nb use to talk the samesstwenty. A youthful splrlt’s mighty good, I hope you have it ev'ry minute; But washln' or sawln' wood, ‘. ,3 1 A youthful spirit isn't in it. By:E§CY 05933;“ - Supreme Moments of. Life. ._ " 9 i. ,Q‘ Even-”u...” . y, .4. .41! 1' \ . P' ~c\-.,. u .453. we notice.’ nagh; , '7 i , ‘23 > » persons #80011 ,manners, , carry _:i i l ."i -- »-. . . tude,,of acquiring less. e 27.. e '. tioh to-old Merriam‘s applica- e a‘ N unuxunl and original’appllca- tlon for a, secretary resulted in Jim Cat-dwell being accorded .an interview. .Merrlam was the pres!- dent of the largest dry goods cor- poration «in the metropolis. The po- ‘ eltion was worth $7,500 for a starter. Merriam likedCardwell's looks op soon as he entered the office. He §Was a. well-set-up young fellow of thirty-two or three, and his testi- monials and references were excel- lent. ' "Everything seems quite satisfac- tory." said oldAMerriam. “but what is the meaning of this final sentence in your letter: 'I do not play and under no.clrcumstances will '1, play golf with you or any man.‘ " Ou‘dwell smiled. “I mean precise— ly what} say,. Mr. Merriam,” he an- swered. “I will not play golf—" "Have you ever played gulf?” in- quired Merriam. “Thank God, no! To wander around the country hitting at a silly ball with a. silly club seems to me the limit of insanity. I'm fond of real sport—tennis, and so forth; but golf is a. tyrant. sir. No matter where one goes, one meets the some foolstwith the same fool clubs. bit- ting at the same fool of a ball—~" ‘ “Pray don‘t become excited, Mr. Cardwell." - . "I un‘warm, sir, but not excited.- lnusmuch—as the ability to play golf constitutes so large a part of the desideratum of a secretary in these ' dun-I give you warning that I will not. play." ‘ “There will be 'no necessity.“ sn- stored old 'Merriam. ‘1 pity you. Mr. Cardwell, but beyond that I have nothing to say." Cardwell proved an ideal sects; ' tnry. He had only the one golf bee in his bonnet, and. he took it out for an ilring .whenever the opportunity arobe. Many an invitation to play golf he sternly declined. . «“‘Admirable chap, Cardwell." said Simpkinaythe first vice. to Merriam. "But say! If only he'd play golf. He's so desirable socially. and yet, if he hadn't. that fool idea.’ he'd! be worth thousandss year more to us.” “Leave him to me," said Merriam, with a sage smile. ' After Cal-dwell had been with the corporation fern: few weeks Mer- =mm1nvitea him do'In to hit coun- try place off Long Island for _the Week-end. . . .,By Joan PALMER. ' - WM, 1523, u} rig niacin. new”... am “Nice little place I've 80!." 110 said. “Close to the country club. too; heaps of fun always some on—" "Golf. I suppose," well. “Not for you, my door fellow; don't be afraid," answerod Herman!— "My daughter Agnes is anxious to meet you. She considers a man who doesn't like golf a prodigy." That evening Ca ell standing face to face’with Agnes Merriam. knew that he had met his fate at last. - She was small, and had the most ravishing dark hair, and they ap- peared absorbed in each other from the moment of their meeting. ‘ "W’ell, what do you think of him. my dear?" asked Merriam after- ward. “A very nice young man, but quite obstinate," said Agnes. "Mind you don't fall in love with him, my dear. But if you can over- come that mania. of his, why it will mean a good deal to the firm." It was evident to Merriam, how- ever. that his skillfully laid plan was destined to fail. Byaaturday night the pair were totally obsorbed in each other: all Sunday they were to- gether, and when they parted on Monday morning each had a. face as long as a. nalL "Cal-dwell, you must come down for the week-end." said Merrumr five days later. Cardwell accepted with nlecrlty. This time he ‘made no mention of golf. However, Merriam smiled when, on Sunday morning. he sow the pair going off for a. quiet stroll in the direction of the golf course. On the occasion of his third visit Cgrdwell asked Merriam for permis- sion to marry his daughter. Mer- riam sighed. He hated to lose her. But that happens to alL fathers of marriageable daughters in due course. “And where are you young people going to spend the honeymoon?" he asked a little later. - "Oh. we're going to'Ashweli," an- swered Cardwell. "Rather a. goodish trip." "W'eli, you see, there's a ripping hotel there. and Agnes’ friends, the Sitwells,~ you know. and an 18-110» golf course—" . ~ ~ - "W‘ell; it was worth it," Merriam admitted to Simpkins Inter. snorted Card~ ‘ ELL - MEANIXG, industrious wend their way through. the crow-currents of life. complaining at every turn of the tide that though they exert uable asset. Something to“ Think Abolit . Inborn Aptitude air. A. WALKER method to discover his aptitude for the practice of medicine, he treads the brown furrows until the end of his days, and the world loses a val- Educators and parents themselves to ther'utmost, they fail should seek primarily to discover in the higher accomplishments. the natural talent, and then develop They tug at the oars with all the it by suitable training. strength and ability they can com- mand, yet they never succeed winning the plaudits .of their em; ployers- or the commendations of their intimates. .~ themselves ‘with beecglfning‘~ dignity, observe the niceties of society, be honest, earnest. and painstaking, but nevertheless they find ’didlculty in keeping in- touch.wlth the ever—moving proces- llod elbowing ltrmy through per- plexlties and getting effective re-' Units. The trouble with these— disappoint- ‘ od souls is that they are laboring in I, field of enort for which they have . . no innate aptitude. - Their nattlral talents are held in leash while they are trying to_ do something for which they are un- titled. They failed in the start to ken the bent of their genius, given them byvan’sli-wise Providence for their ”special use, so they travel along the line of greatest resistance and new:- accomplish anything in . . ....life beyondiho average. >At the half-my stage of existence there comes upon, them an over- whelming ‘realimtion of their in- altitude, their inability to make Int- ‘lsfactory 'progress.- They are earn- =ing no more than they were ten lives. hymen ago, with the prospect as age choly or morbid thoughts are driven - ,approacm and deals out its aches, out. by the presence of this gem. inflation of joints and lassi- It is .a pitiful condition which comes" to every generation of the , human» family. and which Will con- today. The Romans unue with clock-like regularity un- we can determine "the aptitude of youths sud educate them accordi- --»« instr- -;_A plowmn by training might be made uvnuperior physician, but be- cause-there is no stating school «or lnyear thousands of humans from Such a. system would save every failure. 0010f; ' flower By MILDRED MARSHALL r ‘ LAPIe-LAzULI. ’E ODAY the iapis-lazuli occupies the unique position of being bothi talismanic and a. natal gem. As a. talisman it is best used at this season of the year as a cure for intermittent fever. According to the great physicians of ancient times malarial patients were made free of the disease by wearing lapis-lazuli on their left arms. _For:those who nregborxr on some .mnlvermry of this day the lapto- lazul’i promises happy and care-free It is believed that melan— Those who wear this gem will never be distressed by groundless worries or vain . Yellow is the p bed color for iieved that it was the named. hue which attracted . ;_ . "‘ til wenholl find a. method by which happiness. In a. woman's sowu it is, believed to emphasize youth. The white lilac is a. significant flower on this date. It is believed to bringTabout realization of social un- bltlons. and it also attracts influen- tinlfrien: as. bit- of bombs-mama:- we. the ;.