‘\ ‘ h 7" . ‘th A. popular sleeve of cloth has is a change of sufllcient impor- tance to compel women to stop. look and speculate. From a frag- ment of an arm cap. a mere wisp of cloth hanging limply from the shout- der. to mediasval arm coverings of splendor and extravagant sine is a. prodigious leap. It star-ties and be- wilders. No revolution comes overnight. That's a pretty piece of talk. Things melt and slide and boil and bubble under the surface: then there's an explosion. True of physical . and political events, it is true. also. of fashions. If one keeps an ear to the ground as do Indians. much can be anticipated. The seemingly sudden burst of long and ornate sleeves into fashion is a case in point. Are women sorry that arm cover- ings have changed? I think so. But dressmakers are not. They ab- hor static fashions. They did their best to put the chemise frock outof the way. They quarrel with women now over the retention of the unim- portant cloche hat in mannish felt. They have put flaring godets at sides of short coats to compel wom- en to give up the Jumper jacket with its bias opening in front. They have invented. or revived. shingled hair with temple locks to make the permanently waved ‘bob" look out of the picture. Lastly. they have gone to the great day costumes of other days to show women how foolish it is to go on leaving the 'arfns bare. They argue that distinction and glory are given to a gown by its sleeves, decorative and costly. “'omen go right on wearing their arms bare in this mild weather. but the accepted change is moulding new fashions. and dressmakers who are completing cold weather frocks do not find it diflicult to put ornate sleeves into tight armholss. There's no protest. Maybe wint :r weather is more persuasive that fashion. Maybe there is a slight feeling. at last. for a. change in apparel. Some— one is tired, somewhere. of a coffee sack hanging from the shoulders with a slit for the head to go through and wide openings for the arms. FROM short sleeves to long ones Women are worried about the; limpness of sleeves rather. .than by their increased length. If limp- ness is not retained. it's going to be a fretfui winter for those who are everlastingly trying to make a deco- rativW sleeve of width and stiffness go under a coat with insumciently wide sleeves. The fashion for the eevsless Jacket did not survive. I died a quick death. but it may be exploited again in the spring. which is the suitable season for it. It was a lovely idea; old as human nature. nearly. it gave women a chance to prolong the line from ‘ehouldsr to hips. which is sin-lost necessary to style and grace in the average_ American figure. In way of parenthesis: what an advance it is on methods of the last decade that the clothes makers most stridently insist through the public-7 ity channels that French ideas only are now worked out for the Amer- ican figure. It has taken years of preaching and failures to bring the clothes makers and the consumers to the practical fast that few French clothsscanbeworn“asis”byany women but the lat-inl- The «amne- between the bodies ofthatworsces, thesharpdixerenee between the carries. and poles of spine and. head. the arrangement of curves. make the dothes of one race utterly unsuited for the other. The French about and will not change. They never have. Their uhthegreatestinthewoeldd dress. is founded on their own wom- en and their physical WW. Many dressmakes in this country lune prided 'themselvee that they gave to America» purely French c othes. waiting until the seasonal exhibitions were finished in order to set the sweet clothes the bench a cut} and pull or block astrolo- lma, one of wrist, the other below shoulder. This treatment follows the rule that if ale-ms be tight and long, they must be adorned. women wore. What was the result? Thxey took orders from the mine“ on 7. Furthermore, the French clothes are held together with a gesture. We require fastenings. We know little of the art of gesturing. We have been taught from\he cradle that a lady keeps her hands still. More than that. our weather is not such as __ to improve our tempers when we have to hold our clothes together with-the hands. It is not to he expected that we will get fashions elsewhere than from Paris. “'hy should we? Tap- ping that source is the cleverest thing we do in clothes. But the lines must be adapted to us. That is our belated cleverness. So much for discussion. Now for practical description. The Sleeves of All Nations The confusion of the fashion mak- ers this Winter is evident in the way they grasp at straws. The public must select a. few styles and make them dominant factors. The array of sleeves offered in the passing A veil can do much more than carer the face. Here it is used to drape a wide-crowned volt-ct hot, when to form long sleeves over bare arms. mam snugly at wrists. The revival 0! cells is a feature of fashion. show of clothes is suggestive of a parade of international flags. What- evsr sleeve one likes can be chosen. No one in authority says ‘yea' or "n‘ye" There's the sleeve of black' lace that starts at the hat brim and, fall- ing over the shoulders, runs down the arm to end in a snug wristlet. Curious and charming is this inven- = tion, which was suggested by the Spanish mantilla. Spain. you know. is rivalling Indo—Chlne as a source of fashion inspiration, and it may stand the test of popularity longer. The Spanish flounce is a prevail- ing feature of fashion. 80 are. Span- ish earrings. embroidered shawls. tortoise shell combs. Boleros are re- vlved. so is the piaited shirt of the bullaflghter: .also the low-heeled slipper. None of these things are new to our eyes in America, for dressmakers have been advancing them timidly for a. .year; but they are now familiar Eights. So are Span- ish furniture and literature and paintings and dancing. ’ The lace veil that makes a. sleeve is a gladdening sight to the econom- ist. It enables” her to turn a dance frock into an afternoon one. The sketch shows that trick. There's the Rl’ian sleeve wide the hack remaining U—shaped. and a deep. unmistable U at that. Vanished is the small cap sleeve of tulle or lace put in evening gowns by those who did not countenance the entirely hare arm; Thce'sino substitute for it. The elongated shoulder, which fame a‘slight pro- tection to the top of arm. is another obliterated fashion. Shoulder seams are short this season: sleeves jars snugly fitted to a small armhole: at wrist and heavily weighted with othe underarm seam is as icing as the an exaggerated band of fur. There' s a twin on the other wrist. so one has a. muff. It is quite the fashion to keep .one's hands warm. Chinese fashion. It’s the first trick the man- nequins show when exhibiting coats. Veritable muffs. however. are re- turned to usage. In the French col- lections shown last August, from which are drawn the inspiration for our winter fashions. the girls who paraded the salons in the new clothes carried small and large fur muds for the first time in a. decade. This is significant. Get out the muff you put in camphbr and give it a. bit of the sunshine. This Russian sleeve is a first cons. in to Chinese and Persian arm cov- erings. for the early source of clothes in these three countries was about the same. The Polish sleeve differs in that it opens from shoulder to hem. and it , Above—The brilliant Polish sleeve is revived, with its slashed open- ing down the length of arm and immense cufl of white ermine. If is figure permits. ‘ These are among the important changes in feahlonfi although we continue to say that old clothes Will do The bodies of an evening gown is brought up to a point on the shoul- der in the Edwardian manner. Un- like the clothes of the ladies who made the Prince of Wales' court so gay the front decolletage is a mod- est arrangement. Those who shrink at bareness of shoulder. back and arms have the ubiquitous scarf at their disposal. It serves the same purpose as it did for our respected- ancestors whose street gowns would easily serve as hell gowns today. The scarf is of much importance this autumn for the street and for low afternoon and evening gowns. Dressmakers arrange it of two col- ors. of transparent fabrics. as an ac- cessory for each gown. Often 'it. is fringed with silk threads at the hem shown here in black: velvet In center—Here's the Russian sleeve of ancient days which fits the upper part a! the arm and falls as a panel to knees. It is made of Chinese brocade and belongs to an evening gown showing the Edwardian decolletage. Above circle—Sleeve of green velvet cut in two parts, one above, one below the elbow. Both parts fit the am like gloves and are edged with gold metal embroidery. As a sua- reaches to the knees. It is a first cousin to the sleeve of the Vene- tians. It is most decorative when made of metal cloth. of velvet em- broidered with white crystals or col- ored with silk threads in a florid de- sign. It hangs freefrom the shoul- der or is held at the wrist. as one 'wills. As far as the season goes. the Polish sleeve is the only kind ap- pearing in evening-gowns. The ut- termost exposure of arms and back is' the rule in that realm of dress, yet the chest continues to be wholly or partially protected. Have the epidemics of bronchial influenm been responsible for the continuance of this fashion? :When the neck is cut away to show more than the collarbone in front it takes the shape of a square nation of Victorian mitts, this sleeve: is significant. or' embroidered with flat flowers in the Peking stitch. It is worn once about the neck. one short end at back. the long end in front. Georg- ette crepe is the material most fre- quently chosen. Elaborate evening gowns suggest scat-1's of printed chiffon, of Oriental silks, usually with silk fringe cro- cheted into the hem. Often the dress material is used. The array of modern fabrics, fantastic and cheerful. is endless. Tulle is not used. Once it wasthe standby of the woman who wanted protection across her bare back. It is chosen . for rumed frocks in the Edwardian fashion by leaders of the minority. but its use ends there. Strange as it may seem. the splen- did Spanish shawl in_ embroidered crepe is worn with formal ev ing gowns. It must .be draped as a. square. not in points. That's a. trick to remember. sleeves of Ancient Traditions A distinct difference between day and night gowns is in the arrh'cov- ering and the length of hem. Clothes are short again for day, sometimes ten inches from the floor and grow- ing shorter; but for evening they rub the ankle, sometimes sweeping ontheflooratbackorsides. The arms. which are nnblushingly bare in the electric light. are entirely cov— . ered in the sunlight. ”Sleeves reach the wrist. at least; they often go on to the knuckles. The Polish sleeve goes on to the knees. ‘ copyright I923 by 772: ”can: NW Swindle. " ’ ake On the Splendor and Impo Coatslemsroreveniaganddsy hours ruchthemflpsofthe angers. when for muifccuasaread‘ded. Sev- erel towels to dub-quarts: costs that serveaspartofatanoredsuit of severe and traditional cut. are widely opened at‘ wrist and nearly, cover the hand. .This is not always a may fashion. Be careful of it. You might look as though you were ‘ eoonomisinglp hand-me-downa. Also remember this point: .if the sleeve ishandlength.besuret.hatitis' wide after it leaves the elbow. If «othe Chinese sleeve is sccspbd. it mnnot be modified and adapted without awkwardness. The mom of gown sleeves for day are taken from mediasval or Renaissance periods. The leg-o'- mutton. introduced by Jenny. of Paris. and extensively adopted over here. goes through a dozen phases Itsmostgracefulsppea‘rance is in a combination of heavy and thin ma- terial, such as cloth at top. tight- fltting. and silk plans or streamers of chenille dropping from an em- broid'éred brassard to a nan-ow wrt'stlet to match. An .ezagguratsd sleeve of this type that has met with .favor is. of cloth that fits the arm like a glove with an immense puff or black astrakhan at armhole and wrist. The most delightful fantasy that shows a big b‘ulgs on a. tight sleeve is the clever usage of the mandarin elbow cushion as a barrel puif from wrist to elbow on a. velvet sleeve.‘ These cushions are not well known in this country.- Canny tourists bring them home. but. the. French. who are studying China. for a hun- dred inspiratiOns, found in such bits of embroidered brocade or silk the chance to make a new fashion. Would that such cushions were introduced over here. There might be more comfort in sitting and less rough and reddened elbows. The! are melon-shaped. put together in sections like the crowns of our new hats, and bearing on the surface the colorful art of Chili's. -As black and gold is the most fa- miliar decorative “You! tof China. the dressmakers use lavishly _wherever it can appear. but they do it quite well on a black velvet bishop sleeve. where it serves as a cufl in ‘ three sections. Bands of black satin are heavily embroidered in gold threads; sewed together. cut to points that. hang from the wrist, fln- ished withblackandgoldsilkthresd tassel» They give quite a tulip to what might be a conventional frock. Lace culieiAppeeI-Q’ Out of the bewildering array of .nsw winter sl'eevesf'iths tight sleeve. It‘s as Wold-a cos- tunes-y. "therefore, familiar. Its de- facts are what’every woman knows. ‘ce 0f Renaissance Days Thulescwrsleeoe halo horror follows this m Here it is shown in black velvet with eight Mendingiametalmbroldm ”which falls adeep plotting of man: Realising-embroidered mtm . The Venom ladies Who adopted this cu! as a splendid way to ex-. hibit the new Italian invention. lace, did not carry bundles. nor did they stick their hands in mufls. so possi- bly they did not get: cleaned each day. The pmsnt-day woman who is willing to undergo this drudgery finds such sleeve appendages among the lovely and gracious things in dress. Sleeves With Circular Endings None make objection to the cir- cular movement on a sleeve. Women may not like it on the skirt: they may, ignore it on a jacket and refus‘ to accept it over the hips of a. .ouse; but they tride gaily with on an arm cow ering. .Therefo several typeset sleeves show it " a variant from the pipe-stem affair which. fashion has reinstated. The revival of sleeves long since dead and buried is one of the extraordinary happenings of this season. Far too numerous these resurrections to describe them in a. small space. But the old device of putting a flaring flounce at the wrist is in evidence everywhere. It’s a clever way to lengthen a sleeve that for some malicious reason has grown too short. The status of a sleeve does not govern its usage. It is put. impartially. on those for work and those for gayety. It is formed of fur for a. day or evening coat. sometimes nearly half as long as the arm; again it is’a mere trifle, a suggestion of the fashion. Rarely does it go on the sleeve of a jacket that belongs to a suit. It is kept for frocks and top coats. There is something gay and spirited in all these circular de- vices. especially so against a background of pipe stems and pencils. They give the tests] ef- fect of flags flying from straight towers. cafe an adopted MI mu “We. There’s the Venetian: icon; 10mm sass uprated; the of M silk and, embroidery the tight wrist- , Chinese fashion, with silk meals in ~....-........... ’1 f at? H 4-»... Iuoeewnm We": 0 an” 0
Norwalk Chronicler