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My;
The Mode of 1880 Inspires Notable
Dressmakers to Produce the
Draped Skirt “30m by Sarah
Bernhardt in Her Youth.
lCTORIAN-yes. but not. mid-
V Victorian.
There has ben a deal of
pother about the mid-Victorian
silhouette. which tarot course just
the same thing: as the silhouette
of the Second Empire. or the sil-
houette most usually associated
with that beautiful Eugenie who
shared the throne of France with
Louis Napoleon. Frankly women
didn‘t like it. if they accept it. all
thuy will need more. persuasion
from tho dressmakers.
But Queen Victoria. had a long
ruign. There is but one silhouette
to associate with the name of the
.khnl‘lvl‘fllilned Eugenie, but several
that might be called by the name
of Victoria. And just at present
thorn is a tendency to adapt some
nt‘ the fashion details of the period
of Him to the present mode.
To many
This is late Victorian.
"i" nears! siIImurHr which drflm‘s
”w figure and shouts an J38!)
"MAT" upward in tlir lack.
of us the name of Du Maurier
miclit he a happier choice by way
of ilcsirnatlng the frock that
shows a close fitting to the waist
v.'.ll‘l shining and draping of the
matcrinl front hips to knees.
Manet. the French founder of the
izzipressionistic school of painting.
ha, left lasting record of this
mode in several of his most
notable canvases, and Sarah Bern-
hrtrfit at the zenith of her long
prime added lustre to the mode.
She scored her great triumph in
t‘umille in 1881. wearing gowns
of this interesting period.
Martial et Armand of Paris
have gone far in this direction.
sometimes even using ioopings of
material at the back and side to
suggest. the bustle that was so
1880. True. bustles were offered
last year and no one took them
seriously. But few fashions have
ever "taken” the first time women
have been exposed to them.
One of the Martial et Armand
evening frocks of this description
is of gold and pink lame with a.
ooping of brocade ribbon by way
of bustle suggestion. The same
silhouette is shown in.the black
satin frock in the sketch, with long
closely-fitted sleeves. Inseparably
associated with this 1880 drapery
is a. tendency to drape skirts
higher at the back than at the
from. Even when there is a train
the skirt itself has this upward
hike at the back. the train being
managed by itself.
. = THE =
HOUSEHOLD
some by ANNE IITTINI'IOUSI
IF THERE ARE CHILDREN.
day mothers on the care and
.c..-t_lin'.; of their children offer
I‘a meats for the youngster of two
or three years lamb chops, beefstenk.
roast lamb, roast beef. or chicken,
eitln-r roasted or fricnssee. And that.
llnncr for the very young child
mines at two and for the slightly
l‘flt‘t‘ child at twelve or half past.
'Fth is all very well if you have
your own hearty meal in the middle
of the day—and this many persons
iixing in the country and small
towns do. But for the many. many
who do not the problem is real.
\cannot afford to have roast lamb
{and roast beef cooked especially for
‘the children, and the authorities ob-
ject to warmed over meets for chil-
dren.
Many mothers solve the problem
to their own apparent satisfaction
by rrstrfcting their children's list of
meats to lamb chops. But few chil-
drcn will eat lamb chops day after
day. Then they must go without
meat. and sometimes it is really nd-
visa le, apparently. to give children
meat onct: a day.
No household should he run solely
for the good of the children. and yet
matters that relate to the hcalth of
the children should be. given very
great consideration. \‘l’hy not occa-
sionally cook the roast in the morn-
ing. lcttin: the children have a slice
of roast lamb ur roast beef fresh
and hot for their midday meal. re-
heating it for adults at a late dinner,
for apparently there is no reason
. why an adult should not eat heated-
3o~.'cr meat. .
I The roast may be put in the oven
in the morning and cooked not all
the way through. The outside slice
should be removed and the second
sllt'e taken for the children. The
outside slice may then be placed
over the roast. which may be set
away to be cooked again in time for
late dinner. “’lth chicken it is a.
simple enough matter! to cook to-
night's fricsssce chicken in time so
that. there may be a slice from the
breast or a wing ready for the child's
midday meal, for fricassee chicken
is looked upon as quite as suitable
as the roasted fowl.
c—nnnnv so unans-
Stew celery. cut in inch strips;
when done drain; place in but-
tered baking pan: pour over
this one cup of milk. salt and pep-
per to taste: then dust with bread
crumbs, dot with butter, over all
Tint books that guide present-
ncccssary a detail of fashion in
strew grated cheese. Bake twenty
By INEZ
HE Flapper eyed my dinner
T table with indifference as
marked as it was unusual.
“What's it all about?" I demand~
c").
"0h. 1 had luncheon with the
lilshes," she replied. as nonchalant-
H as if she did it every day. "We
“cot to Shcrry‘s. and I never want
in see anything to eat again.
"The girls looked darling. Dorothy
had on a. pale gray suit, and her
Kurxeous green jade beads and pin,
and Lillian was in a black Tam
.nstumc. Do you know what she
did? Well, the very morning of the
ctmninc of ‘The White Bister‘ Doro-
lhl‘ discovercd that Lillian expected
in wear a. frock that she'd worn to
the openings of her last two pic-
turvs. and made he'r rush off and
have a new one designed and made
on the moment.
“0! course they're both awfully
interested in doing 'Romola' over in
Italy; they were going to spend that
afternoon in looking at designs of
costumes. though Lilian said you
"Ouldn't tell a thing about costumes
till you saw them under the lights
and on the set where they were to
be used. But she stopped all disc“.
slon of that. when Dorothy divulxed
the fact. that she'd taken John Gilli.
”’19 parrot Lillian has had for so
long. on a picnic. Dorothy said that
n time came in her family when
there had to be a picnic. She and
her husband and his mother and sis-
ters went. And so did the parrot.
who'd ne’ver been“ to one before:
Dorothy said he hated the m
and sat and chewed on achlclten
bone in nub-clad! ”mac:
n. 1—».
THE FILM
FLAPPER
. SAYS—F- '
they spread the tablecloth on I. hor-
nets' nest, and did all the other vic-
nic'ky things.
"Lillian recovered in time to wax
enthusiastic about '1! Winter
Comes': she said that she thought
Percy Manhunt gave a marvellous
performance. and that the picture
Was one of the most absolume eat-
isfying ones she had ever seen. And
she spoke about meant—didn't
agree with Dorothy and me in being
crazy about it, because she couldn’t
bear to have Mary Pickford grow
I: l
p"! saw “The White Sister' again
the other afternoon: had an awful
time getting in. The picture is go-
ing mmellouely. you know; there
was a line three deep way out past
the four buildings nearest the thea-
ter, and the lobby was filled with a
seething mob. They were selling
tickets at two windows, as fast as
they could hand” them out. The
house, has been sold out time after
time. I hear, and the picture is like-
ly to the a. long, long run._ Every-
body's crazy about it."
"Including you.”. I murmured. as
she refused peach shortcake for the
first time in her life. “If you've
reached the stage where you can't.
out I‘m ready to give up.” .
"So'm I." she replied. looking
wistful. "But somehow food doesn't
appeal to me. Lillian's Just as pres-
udiced as ever against white bread.
incidentally; it's the only thing I
know of in which she takes a firm
stand: she simply can‘tjunderstand
how anyone can eat it. 5With her
womb: nothlnl £3.10 re-
magnum it ”maneuvers use
Your
*
r‘fl‘
.21. even when it was an 8.
GA
SHORTSTORYL
Murder in
His Hear
By CHARLES E. BAXTER ,
copyright, 1988, by The Healers Newspaper Syndicate.
OGERS knew that Howells
would meet him at Cross Point.
The two men were farmers.
living in a rather scattered com-
munity. and Crane Point. was mid-
way between their forms. It was a.
lonely spot, and had rather an un-
enviabie reputation; there had been
a. couple of hold-ups there during
the past year. Still, howells would
come.
Howells had a mortgage on Rog-
ers' farm and was threatening to
foreclose. Rogers had telephoned
Howells that he could raise the
money in Lime. He asked him to
meet him at Cross Point to receive
it. Ashville. where his bank was,
lay in the opposite direction.
So far, so good; but. Rogers had
his alibi all prepared.” No need to
speak of that. It involved setting
two or three clocks a little forward
——but he had thought all that part
of the plan out. carefully and appre-
hended no difficulties.
Howells he meant to stab him and
to throw his body into the stream.
He was staging a hold-up in fact.
and the very boldness of his tele-
phoning Howells was in order to lay
emphasis upon this fact. Then he
would sprint; his alibi.
Perhaps it was not close-woven
enough to escape a merciless cross-
cxaminaiion. but then Rowers was a
typical farmer of that region, ignor~
ant. opinionated. He felt that How-
ells ought to die, rather than that.
he and his should be dispossessed.
He went to Cross Point and waited.
The. night was intensely dark. One
could hardly see one's band before
one's eface. There was a strong
wind blowing. and the tree-tops were
full of sound. Rogers, who had
been brought up religiously, remem—
bered a. phrase out of the Bible.
"An the Lord went before them ‘in
the tree-tops." He almost regretted
his tar-heme, but hc thought of the
mortgage. and hr.- wns quite calm
and roller‘tr-r‘l when 'at last he saw
the lights of Howells" buggy round-
ing the curve of the road.
Once he thought he heard voices
near where he Lurkctl. but he put
that down to nerves. He, watched
thc lights nearing him. They were.
very nenr now. “’hen they reached
the dark outlines of a
the road Rogers was gnlng to bail
Howells. Howells would rein in.
Then Rogers Would go up to
busy. climb in, and stab Howells
to the heart. it. was all quite clear
in Roge_rs' mind.’
The lights came nearer still. They
were almost opposite the tree. And
suddenly somebody else hailed How-
ells. The buggy stopped. There fob
lowed a. shout, shouts of men . . . .
Rogers. infuriated at. being balke
of his prey, ran blindly forward. He
saw two men trying to pull Howells
out of the buggy. Immediately he
knew what had happened. Some-
thing else had been staged to take
place at Cross Point that night—a.
hold-up. The two men were foot~
pads.‘
Before Rogers reached his man
Howells had come tumbling out of
the buggy. The frightened horse
galloped madly axvay, the buggy
cluttering behind it. Then Rogers
was in the thick of it.
\Vhen be met‘
tree no rose 1
the I
The poorest man. :i tail ruman
,wcnring: a mask. rvlmsoii Howells
and turned tmxuz‘il him. Rogers
drove the knife hoznc into his shoul-
der. \Vith :i hmvl of pain the ruf—
H’lan fled. Iii! companion. 21 smaller
man, snuppcal a pistol in Howells"
face. The lmllct whist‘tel past, and
Howells. dropping: his knife “Tested
the pistol out of the man's hard and
struck him a stunning lilmv across
the head with it. The man whined
.like an animal and went stunihlirlg
away across- the holds.
i limvells lay on the around. He
Iliad been struck and stunned. Rog-
icrs leaned over him. He picked him
Eup and carried him to :1 patch of
{grass beside the heirre. Ht:- listened
land heard llowclls breathe. He
called him, but Howells did not re-
spond. Something was lying on the
tground. it was the knife.
And suddenly lI'vzers realized how
isplendidly things had turned out for
ihim. Now he could stab Howells to
ideath. and his death would he
asiribed to the i‘ootpads. But some-
. h0lV—r.‘
E Howells opened his eyes and in a
imomcnt or two began to understand.
[He recognized Rogers "it was a.
'holrl-up," ho mumbled.
[in tho nicknf time, Rogers.
ito tc'l you
:i‘ilVOlll that mortgage
raise the nitincy.
lbctween friends.’
| Hr-wol‘s' llOfl'l dropped on his
'ghreast, he grew unconscious again.
’Rogers picked him up in his arms
and started toward Howells' home.
Meant
don't worry
if you didn't
No matter .
When You
' HE other day a shoe salesman
T commented on the fact that
a woman had recently come
into his store asking for a shoe
in size 3 AA. Not having a large
assortment of shoes in that size
he measured the woman‘s shoe
Iand‘ found that her foot really
measured to a 5 D shoe. He
told her this, but she denied it.
She rather resented the sugges-
tion that she had a foot that was
wide. She preferred her double
How-
ever, they compromised. she and
the shoe salesman. and she went
away with a 6 C.
As this woman had worn her
shoes. the ball of her foot came
where the instep should have
t
l.
yrics of Life
. a:
iooucusmmocu
THE SCREEN DOOR.
Modern stagecraft is a wonder:
they can imitate the thunder. or
and earthquake, or the gallop
of a horse;
They can imitate the ocean. ev’ry
sound and ev'ry motion. and do
other things remarkable. of
course. '
But, although their imitations are
the wonder of the nations, there
> is one I never yet have ever
known:
They can imitate a rifle, an explo-
sion is a trifle—but a screen
door has a slam that‘s all its
own.
“'hen your nerves are all a-Jangle'
and a—tingle and a-tangle. when
you're weak and ' worn and
weary with the strain,
When you're feeling rather 'shaky.
rather cranky, rather whey. and
there's something out of kilter
in your brain. _
When you're tired until you stagger,
when a noise is like a. dagger,
when you're touchy, when you
long to be alone.
When the world is like a. riot and
you long for peace and quiet——
then a screen door has a slam
that's all its own.
0 you persons more phlegmatic,
with no cobwebs in your attic,
0 you people calm and placid
ever-more,
Oh. we beg of you. we pray you, if
we need to we will pay you. if
you only gently. softly close the
door.
Now a squeak upon the hinges and
the body fairly cringes. yes, we
always hear you coming with a.
sroan. —. -
And with shot we’d like to. fill you.
and—oh. , .- remember. will
Jen; thorn. 7 door. a
slam me. Ill 0
Buy Shoes
icome. The long narrow shoe was
gnot suited to her fact at all. hence
‘shc had to not it cut of all pro-
'portion in length.
There are all sorts of misfittings
of shoes nowadays. hut in the
;majority of cases these are due
.to the people who buy the shoes
‘Who have certain prejudices and
tpreconceived notions of what size
:shocs they should wear. if they
feel convinced their foot is nar-
row then the salesman simply has
.to give them a Shoe long enough
:in that width to accommodate the
gfoot. With the long, narrow inst
ithat still seems to persist most
women do buy shoes that are
’much longer than their feet in
order to be able to wear them
with anything like comfort.
"Just came
i
By PERCY CROSBY
Ml. rm. U! The um. NW
To -Day’s Jewm
' Color
Lad” . Flower
By MILDRED MARSHALL
TOPAZ
JDAY'S talismanic gem. the
T tpaz, is a. protection against
causeless fear and Worry. . Its
golden hue dispels doubt and brings
courage to those who wear this
stone.
Amber. another golden gem, is the
natal stone for today; to those born
on some anniversary of this day, it
brings bodily strength and great
courage.
Deep. golden yellow is the signifi-
cant color for today. It is indicative
of generosity and strength of char-
acter, and through these traits
brings success to those who wear it.
The yellow pansy is today's flow-
er, and brings great happiness to
those who wear it. according to the
ancients.
.105, bab ,a
. On Dapple’s back astride,
Galloping over the nursery. flodr,
Making a terrible rumble and roar,
l
fires-shopper wm: the Fall Steeplechase.
v.1: .‘
'The Household
EI'll-7|
Marketing On
’ Saturday Night
OME of us have a. dimer persist-
ent prejudice against the house-
wife who goes to market on
Saturday night. “’e feel a certain
smug. self-contentment because we
always have our week-end ordering
done betimes on Saturday morning
and at an early hour on Saturday
afternoon all our provisions are
neatly stored away in icebox or
pantry.
Now of course there are many ad-
vantages in this timely provisioning,
but it really sometimes does amount
to a. necessity to go a-marketing in
the evening on Saturday and there
are apparently worms to be caught
by the late bird as well as the early
one. In many large vegetable and
fruit markets perishablcs are sold
off to very good advantage on Sat-
urday night, and the housewife who
must count every penny may well
avail herself of this advantage. For
the vegetable and fruit are not real-
' ly the worse for a day in the mar-
ket. The idea. is that. they would
need special care to be carried over
till Monday—in many instances they
" would not be salable at all by that
time.
Sometimes the butcher has cuts of
meat that he will sell at a. reason-
able price on Saturday night. This
is especially true where the butcher
makes a practice of getting ready
certain popular cuts, steaks and
chops and roasts of various sorts. at
s. slack time on Saturday morning
and has them on hand all day. He
may prefer to sell them to you ru-
sonably than to carry them over.
cut as they are, until Monday.
The fact that the Saturday night
buyer hways lugs home her own
purchases makes some storeheepu-a
willing to sell to her at better ad-
vantage, and of course no one would
expect to have Saturday night pur-
chases delivered.
“Whatever the advantage- Ind dil-
advantages of the system may be,
true it is that many women know
no other, and the Saturday night;
shopping trip becomes quite a. Jolly
family excursion, one that is looked
forward to from one week end to
another. If you are at all interested
in human nature, you cannot aflord
to miss at least one expedition of
this sort. You do not know the
town in which you live until you
have gone the rounds of the provi-
sion stores as they are some-week-
end night. No doubt with a good
many of those you will rub elbow-
with on such a. trip one of the chief
advantages in this late buying is
that. pay envelopes are handed about
Saturday afternoon and the provider
of the family goes forth with his
wife with a full pocket. And Sun-
day in such households We. a
veritable feast day. for it is the day
of all days when the housewife has
not had to ask herself whether the
wherewithal will last until the next
pay day comes.
heart—burning, dissatisfaction.
jealousy. doubt and go , forth
into the limpld sunlight when the
air is bracing and pay court to
sweet content.
Yield not to inquietude or mal-
content while them and sea and
sky are calling you to enjoy their
companionship. " ‘
Why wish that you were at the
bottom of the Red Sea? Why shrug
your shoulders and make a wry face
because a stray whiff of disappoint-
ment has swept across your super-
sensitive heart and left it strangely
sad? ‘ .
The orange and scarlet of the
autumn hills are beckoning you:
FLING away vexatlon of spirit,
' the gleaming blue streams are sing-
ing among the node; the soft white
clouds are sailing like phantom
ships athwart the sunllt dome. doing
their utter-most to make you happy.
Make friends with Nature. Stroll
leisurely along the pine-needled
aisles of the, woodland, taking you
to the odorous outdoor cathedrals.
where Pan plays his music in the
boughs of the tree-tops. in the dune-
wing leaves whirling in adage-ems
are“. slid museum
Something to Tilinlllboui
Court Sweet Content
By P. A. WW
of old mother earth.
The air is overflowing. bubbling.
sparkling with superlative joy. Draw
it in yen:- lma until you become
intoxicated with Its dellelousneu—
until your inmost soul thrills with
exhilaraxion, hopefulneas. glutinous
of living and doing. .
, Whether“ bond or free; you can
court sweet content without any
chance of going wrong. The more
happy you are the greater ham...
you will get from those around you.
always sure that no Trophonlm- of
the cave of despair can steal it. from
you.
To make yourself cheerful is not
only to get the most out of life. but
to offer to others the divine ensue.
of faith at the some time, producers.
of love and kindness in every hour
of your existence. ‘ -
However skeptical you may in-
cline to be snout this-implants“
Norwalk Chronicler