».__._— "J :_:—— i.
‘5'
vu
If“:
1‘ any woman thinks she can put
I the bulk of her dress money into
:nwns and economize on head-
gnar. she is walking straight toward
disaster. Knowing the value of a
proper and becoming hat. there are
frustitlious women who take :1 morn-
ing with the milliner to choose that
part of the costume before they even
glimpse at frocks. They are keenly
aware that no good gown rises
above a. bad hat.
it is foolish waste of money to he
careless about hate. The American
women in mass need reconstruction
in that field of dress as they do in
corsets. They need more knowledge,
.llfin. in what certain tacos tlcmrmd.
Many :t woman can make good in n.
foolish frock, utterly unsuited to her
mp), type, environment; she cannot
overcome a foolish hat.
The French Women have a good
rule that no crown should he nor-
rmver than the checkboncs lwncuth
it. A good rule. \Vould that more
of us would abide by it. There.
Would be less tiny holmcts sur—
mountlnx fat florid (tires. The new
top hat. the Prince of \V‘ulcs, would
not, be worn by one who tics-ends
from the, Nordic race by hrcmlth of
forehead and chin. The revived
Dutch bonnet. which with tlm
Prince of “'ulcs topper is put forth
to kill the cloche, would not ln- xcen
above a Roman nose and pointed
chin.
it is possible to arrange the holy
to correspond with the troll; :tt
ttmt‘s; ,it is nearly imposslblc to ur-
range the face to fit a wrong hut.
Huts Continue Dlmcult
There are not many types of hats
to browse :nnnng till-s season. \\'m-
unto women that it in so. But lllll“
inn-rs lll‘t‘ (lclighteti at the ('llilli“4‘ to
HP” anything but the ht-lmct and ilm
turlmn, so all one has to (in is to 115:2:
nnl to suggest. The vnritmts from
the clocho and the Oriental lut‘lu’xn
are: the ("‘avnlicr hot. with sin-coping
brim and feather or smrt :it slaw;
the Dutch bonnet. with war llltpj
that stand out from tho tt-tn‘p‘n-s or
lie close to the neck; the (-xttggt-tutto
ed studcnt's bcrct.
.... h
There. is a helmet with a gracious
and wider brim than the strictly
fashionable shapes carry: it can be
worn by the majority. It has not
the tunnotch style of the tiny
ln'immcd huts. but if they are un-
suitable why sacrifice to them?
The beret which, . like Halley’s
a
IIigh-crou‘urd hat of
80va llt'u't'it it'll
(‘nzrrt'tl
cnh’rz I);
with a lll'lt'k
Inm- z-t'tgshmring fi/Iun’u
It'll/I’ll
hrirflt.‘
rmhroirlrrr‘tl in
(HWY. 'I‘hc lt'il
(‘J‘U'NIIS m or Illt‘h car in
imitation of Dutch
mm 11pm or
”11'
(or u izivh
on Mr nz'u‘ I‘nxnch hols.
Neck mum" and br-
n't 0/ black velvet
boldly cmbroidcn‘d in
gold threads in Chinese
design. This a worn ..
with. a black tailo'rd
ain't a] duvetmw, the
scarf serving an I lub-
ltitufe for M
W
‘l .
l
l
l
’_ U
l
l
mo : -n W‘
Bi; Anne Riitenltouse,
-_ C'qayrigfit 19.23 eyzmucooe NemaperiSymfcafe. g
Veils As Drapery Loom Into the Limelight Along With New Autumn Hats
comet. comes around Just so often,
has the large crown needed 'by
broad—faced women, and it is shaped
down to the demands of finely cut
faces. but it calls for jauntlness. for
a care-free expression, an absence of
wrinkles, a semblance of youth, even
if youth is not there. Such limita-
tions make it difficult to wear at
random.
The sectional crown invented by
the Paris milllner, Rose Rescat, who
put the helmet on the heads of near-
5
collar of seal or ermine or chin—
chilla. The milliners take the cue
and attach scarts to the hat to carry
out some part of its decoration, 'It
may be merely a suggestion of a.
muffler, an outline, made of brightly
printed crepe or embroidered lace.
There‘s a smart beret of black vel-
vet with headband embroidered in
gold, Chinese fashion. ending in two
important tabs over one ear; from
these tabs drops a scarf of the gold
and black. It is thrown once about
tween roof and pavement clothes.
anyway.
The ostrich feather that usually
decorates the Cavalier hat is not be-
coming to any woman uhless she
has a. delicate face. It does ‘not go
with a. high color and a full face.
The trimming of heavy silk floss,
with success. Chosen to top a. slim
black velvet. frock with a Chinese
neckband of ermine. long tight
sleeves edged with ermine. and a.
mutton-fat jade buckle at one hip.
ly all women. has its merits, but it
1:: solvl in such large quantities: :tt
stirlrstxlrlll prices that one shit-u lit
it. There. i: (l lili‘fllwl of making :1.
luv-inn from u l'rt‘l‘lle‘ by use oi nur-
row ribbon thnt rmlool‘ns many a.
crown that is too high and Htil‘f,
making it possil-Iv for tt part of the
majority in<tcmi of :L scttment of
the minority.
'l‘lxc \'cil ltctlccms the Helmet.
The sudden appearance of tho doc—
orrttivv veil attached to the hclmct
ltivldiit‘m‘d “W 0:50. It gztvc one :1
leaping: impulse to t‘tlnfillt' UllC":~' mil-
livery to lllt" t‘lnt"llt‘ and be done
with cmlcrimcnt and speculation in
other shapes. It was the sop thrown
out Ly the mlllincrs to tllt‘ unwary.
although it may have lwcn :l shrewd
tm-ic trick to kccn the unh‘m‘snl
Ilcsrut hut in fashion. ‘lt‘lutlnt‘ETS
knows, the truth: nocdn't make :in
rf’fort in that direction. There
t-houlri he a strong pull in the op-
positc direction.
" The plain black felt helmet first
i'nlt the pressure of the splendid veil.
It is gold and black lace thrown over
the hat to hung to \vhatcvcr length
suggested, the shorter the. better on
some t' n-es. The shop windows no“v
t~:trr:~' sot-h huts. They are a curious
combination of simplicity and or-
lllllt‘nt'S‘. There is something incon—
gruous in throwing a gold embroid-
cred Spanish lace veil over on Em:-
lish piece of felt intended to wmr
on the moors or shooting. Yet the
fashion goes. It is attractive, It
redecms the helmet if one wants it
redeemed.
There is a. visored helmet of black
velvet which carries a promise with
it. suggesting what will be done with
the conventional shape before the
snow comes. It has a high crown.
of course. sloping back from the
forehead. the front made gay with a
massed wreath of vari—colored flOW-
ers running to a point beyond the
ears. 'Over this wreath is a veil of
black lace that shields the eyes in
the Venetian fashion, then turns
into streamers at back. one longer
than the other. Both are handed
with black velvet ribbon. There's a
deal of coquetry in this helmet, and
its dimcult features have been over-
come with artistry.
Veils . as Neck Scarf:
The fashion of the hour is to wear
a scarf about the bare neck. It is a
part at the incoming fashion for
high necks. The furriers put for-
ward foxesrand flat pieces of fur,
also the small sable and the choker
the neck it' one wishes, or it is per-
rmttml tn tlrup ovt-r the truck.
Another l-crct of black lmticr's
Mush, it fabric of fashion this sea—
son. has. its “itlc. high crmvn (’il-
t‘t‘rt'loui 1y :1 tmrl‘tnv bunzi of printt-t‘i
lndmn trope, ending in a bunch of
fur tails over one car le‘tll :l. long
thin strontium that is weighted by
the fut: The t-rrpo, by the \\;i_\'_ is
ii the rrtltluch hrmvn tones with
glimpses of yellow that (,‘lmm‘l of
Paris lilacs. it has supersmietl the
Egyptian tl’ ’gns. and is prvi'crrcd
to the Chinese by women who can-
not stand large figuration. Tin-re is-
a wonderful il;i_\' pout in it, limit by
Chanel for Amcritnn trade. The
body is slimly cut to wrap across
the figure. there‘s Ii. long care at
hark gathered to .‘i dull brown crepe,
Mike and :1 high fur collar. it's all
kinds of a, costume in one.
Glorifying the Felt 'l'lclmct
There‘s further work on the simple
clcwhc to give one woman's head a.
different {unimll‘zlllt‘c‘ from ll‘l‘ neigh—
hor‘s head in the use of (‘hinese
lacquer ribbon run careless scallops
around the crown. This trick gives
color for one thing: also, it breaks
the height requircd of fashionable
cronns. \thncvnr such ribbon doc-
oration is used, it is shielded by a
black taco veil, as though tinx cre-
rttor wvre rather ashamed of tie-
pnrling from the Conventional rib-
ltonlband or shavingbrusli orna-
ment.
Veils with color are not consid-
crctl. Gold embroidery is correct if
n t‘ulltrdst to black is desired. The
vor‘t; ends there. \thn veils am
put on metal turbans, Silk net is
used. usually without :1 design. On
onc tarnished Nilvcr turban of high
dignity there is: u brown vtil used to
dull the gleam and form a Russian
arch crown. Any matron could
wear this hat.
“"hen Large Huts Are “'orn
The attempt to reinstate the large
hat starts with the Cavalier shape.
which is sufficiently conspicuous in
size‘ to please those to whom the
small hat is anathema. But it does
not solve the problem. as it is rather
grand in its manner and Cannot be
worn about town with a tweed suit
and low-heeled shoes. It asks. for
something imposing 1n gowns. It is
admirable for afternoon occasions,
but its dashing effect has to be
somewhat subdued for morning.
Possibly, women will not attempt to
make it serve in the street. There
shouid be a line of demarcation be-
which shows itself on several new
shapes and [or wigs at fancy dress
parties, is prci‘crred to the hip
plumage of the African bird. That
hunch of shaded red poppies which
is place-i on tiny black vclvet pill-
hox hats is borrowed for the Cava~
llcr with good results. It holds the
l-rim up at. one side, or nukes a.
colorful group on the side that tilts
downward. _
it is quite unusual. this flaming
bunch of poppies on a. turban. It
departs, widely. from the ribbon
cot-knde or flat how. the. shaving
brush, the downward falling coque
feathers. But it takes a. woman
with during in her face to wear it
l
l
l
i
tat-gt
‘1
all
i.
l
l
l
lllliilll
l
l
Small black fr” hat,‘
almost brimlcss, with
high—pointed crown
trimmr'd 11:th lacquer
rr'i ribbon in cnnt‘rn-
tional dcsion above the
«tar. ‘ ’l'f‘i! of black
lace embroidrrcd in 7rd
is thrown (jarrr flu“ hat,
carclrsslgl caught at top
of crown.
.lt lrfl—(‘at'ulicr hat'
of hrmrn punnc ‘L't‘l‘l‘r‘t;
bcnroth the szrcrping
brim is a fril of brorl‘n
lure pathrrrd at the s";-
siric alga of the brim
and falling as a masque
orrr the fort:
ping in
at back.
and dip-
Inny strr'nmfrs
We at” .Q.
. , deb
it assists in a cnsturno that would
give distinction to :t common-1318139
woman.
There are Cavalier hats that boast
of Veils Which are. not draped over
the crown. but are gathered to its
inside edge to {all like a masque
over the nose and hang at back.
131an Rules as a Color
There has been no success to get
away from black. Ten out of every
twelve women wcar it. Brown is a.
good second. Red has had its day.
Purple is the choice of a few ’nris
milliners, and may succeed. but it is
not for youth. Grey felt helmets
are worn sometimes, but only by ac-
cident, it Would seem.
If one dot-s not desire to depart
from the conventional. he helmet
should satisfy trery need. This is
thC truthful “'31: to sum up the hat
situation. It remains the choice of
the well-dressed woman. It domi-
nates the scene. when new hats are
shown Owning airing with sleek
shianh-si lrtir. it ‘ .= the fashion-
able head the appearance of a pin
poll/1L
FASHION NOTES
The short
life on ('0er
in ermine
straight
its culls on yer
a“:
l
:prinzs into
».~ izself best
It is
t' l‘le; 2:12;!
"‘ch
New it}... and
frocks lll‘t‘ :.. .5
A 3‘: ~.:' - l'.: his
fus‘nim‘ for “Ell!" t' 1 {el-
vc-t. The hm: m». ix there
was .1 r» ‘-'Pl‘.\ 3-?» rzwt. any: of
the two. “3; “ti: L12» 1.5a 12.5» {ush—
ion this f"‘fi$t
Sunlmvr 91‘]:
renu-
larity. it '11. used
with bin-cit: ' ' :v-ritbzlrl
furriers l. with
mtlskin. :1: .. ntny
rofiirn nntiwr the 1 w‘ M" .1 “'1:in
spinal-i 21m lion lll‘: Emige
an". “'3ch I‘"!‘.‘...’. Tim-“‘- v-ho have
pieces lot". from t-‘h ‘ l\‘< L
oats new
:tl .. :vc
flicker
anl‘ir‘n is to put
no umbrnzzi-Grnd ruff on a
tits ruff itself wile and strik-
: . (fnltroielet‘td. The fur band is
“pun-11ml from it by several inches.
The most joyful are that
monks-3' {z' is tEr mung into the
shadows. lid-“k “.th 1: should go
the rainbow-striped 10?: cost and
Rh!“ jumper jacket, covered with
stitch ‘ fastened “"2 n. (l. earl} at
One - The world could get along
a year without those.
Visored helmet of
black rd‘t'et with high
and area”: of
colored fimccrs in front.
A lace veil is draped
around the hat, falling
in. long, uneren ends at
back, edged with black
'l‘ch‘ft ribbon. In front
the roll foran a ‘5'ch-
tz'an masque.
CTO 21:11
i
i
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Norwalk Chronicler