nu.m~/m,.~,.........,,... ,...
., .,,,, "Na-I"... ,. ,.
.n/rnlmi/
,» mm: II’ 1..
.1 I 'n/v‘J'MI/H.‘ «imam u u
... v wq‘r: ".,'I'
!
«wove/11mm;
'l’W’IlN‘W. .. r
-,-n
4.: \.
12cm
I
after
'1": HIII’IW an :4. “hunch-‘9' 7~LMIA “1123:“ ..~_ ui‘llufll’WU/fl‘fl. 1.3mm W‘llllv-L'IIW w
EL
1,,
i
'\
,m. 4,
._ 4/, ., .
“I‘M“‘M LI
[all ’1'.” .Q
U mi 5.; Lw .
a.
" uW’ -.'W x...“
rum .
! rip
Clothes
HE clingiIg vine can Wear the
I clinging gown this season. So.
also, can the independent type
of woman. it's the fashion. That
settles it.
The controversy between the full
and narrow skirt. has ended in com-_
promise of the kind we expect in
world conferences: one side gets the
balance of power. The clinging skirt
rules. It's full. oh. yes; but, never-
7-4””.
Cling to the Figure Like Skin
by scissors and needle: but they are
as ripples on the water, and are a
part of their foundation.
This method of getting fullness
below the knees which does not in-
terfere with the Oriental eilhouetteis
admirably carried out by American
dressmakers in an attempt to please
women who have‘grown weary of
the definite flounce as a. continuation
of the frock. It wee so cheapened
thelese. it droope against the figure/during the summer that we must
unless one moves quickly. Then it
floats a bit, but comes back to rest
against the bone and muscle which
it covers. Therefore. everyone is
satisfied. . More fabric is used: the
straight line is retained. Hooped
skirts are worn. They are the sop
thrown xto the young and slim to
keep them content. But when the
review of new clothes is finished.
and the pageant of Well-dressed
women swings past the observation
platform, the conclusion is inevitable
that fashionable clothes must cling
as does skin to a peach.
The women of two countries re-
belled against the cffort of the dress-
makcrs to persuade them to appear
older. The slim straight gown gave
a semblance of youth to those who
were in danger of losing it. It ac-
centuated the youth of those who
had it. “'ho would willingly sacri-
fice that which all women search
through high-priced commercial
fountains of Ponce de Leon? The
answer lies in the continuance of
the slim silhouette, the revivabof the
short skirt, the insistancs upon the
simple helmet hat. The public has
exmkcn.
Let's see how they carry out their
rebellion.
Curious Trickery with Hem
Flounces.
The compromise rcached between
designers and consumers in the us-
age of the much heralded below-the-
kneo ilounco is a trickery in cutting.
The fabric falls into godcts across
the front of the frock as though
they were deliberately placed there
have something newer and better.
Theseflpples give it. They are quite
alluring and do not detract from the
pleasing lines of the figure.
Flounoes Partly Regulated to
Gowns.
There appears to be a common
understanding between dressmakers
and public that the tailored suit for
the street and country should revert
to its original severity. Let nouncu
be limited to frocks, is the cry.
With homespun, duvetyn and
tweed chosen for suits, one wants to
be rid of ornamentation. Velvet is
sometimes worn by women who do
not go in for sport clothes of any
kind. but such suits adapt them-
selves to the rule for simplicity in
the morning. They are usually
braid bound. and there's a breast
pocket from which emerges a colored
handkerchief. “fill: the addition of
a helmet in felt or velvet. and the
low-heeled. perforated Oriental shoes
that are smart for the street, the
costume takes on the proper air of
sharpness
Green homespun is accepted as a
good choice {or street as for coun-
try. Once it was frowned upon by
smart women as unsuitable for pave-
ments. but since that day so many
liberties have been taken with sport
clothes that one forgets there was a.
sharp distinction between the open
road and the stone sidewalk. There
are slim straight skirts of this green
homespun with short surplice Jack-
ets, worn with cream crepe blouses,
taupe stockings. gray suede walking
pumps and helmets of green felt
On the street the smart women wean this kind of homespun can,
with narrow slain and straight coat.
collar, is of duuopflnted Indian crepe.
The blouse, with its high stock
The helmet is of plain felt, the
umbrella handle is of colored Indian workmanship.
Bi; Anne Rliienhouse
_, ' aw: [923121] 771915ka New 'Mfe. I .
with ribbon points arranged into a
flat cockade at side.
Another homespun suit is of dull
blue and gray mixed cloth, the blouse
and high stock of Indian printed
crepe, which is highly considered for
accessories this season. It is put on
one of the best black velvet hats as
a ribbon streamer that begins and
ends in a tuft of fur tails. It is put
at one side of the narrow brim and
wound about the neck to serve as a.
scarf.
There are several such acarfs on
new beta, which adds a pleasing
touch to the costume; the scarf
gives a finished look to the bare
neck, coming between the edge of
the frock and the chin. As there is
a. recrudescence of fancy veils. the
milliners seized upon this particular
fashion to give an excuse for net
and lace decoration on a *plain hat.
They are tired of plain hats. “'e
are not.
With the elimination of‘the circu-
lar flounce or the rippling godets on
a tailored suit. no matter how costly
it may happen to be. the dressmak-
ers insist upon getting many of them
on frocks. Even the popular group
of three flounces retains its prestige.
There are nounces. also, on the end
of tunics, especially when they are
intended for normal usage, such as
the restaurants. theaters, card par-
tics. afternoon teas. When there is
not an actual nounce to give a flare,
the material takes on enough full-
AbOue—One of the popular after-
noon gowns of this scaeon is a com-
bination of black. velvet and l’ekin
blue crepe.
tight sleeves The bcrri is of Chi-
nese blue velvet heavily rm broidermi
with gold and weighted at one side
with. a thick tassel of blue silk floss.
nose to be held out by a border of
fur or metallic embroidery.
The Cambodian Jacket which was
tentatively suggested by dressmak-
ers in France last ‘spring and has
grown in strength, has its flare en-
tirely at the sides: the fabric is stif—
fened to stand out like the outline
of a pagoda. Such jackets are hip
length. and are copied from those
worn by the Cambodian dancers who
thrilled Paris last year as a. part of
the Marseilles Colonial Exposition.
The flare on long tunics is sum-
ciently emphatic to suggest to mem-
ory the famous minaret tunic in-
"cnted'by Paul Poirot the year be-
fore the great war. He copied that
garment exactly from the Persian
one. It formed the upper part of a
skirt, but this season the identical
effect will be gained through a tunic
that lends itself to Orientalism. ‘
The Persian girdle is lacking on
these garments. The beltless con-
tour is too widely accepted for the
careless adoption of a. girdle. no mat-
ter what the source of our clothes
may be: the gown of the hour. rarely
has an indication of a. waistline ex-
cept a slight wrinkling of the fabric
across the front. Tunics may hang
straight from the neck. ut they are
apt' to be ahirred at ch side or
caught there with a series of fine
plalts. This treatment breaks the
line sufficiently to meet modern re-
quirements.
Especially do evening gowns de-
light in swinging close to the figure
fmm shoulder to ankle without a
break. Women should be well-cor-
aeted tarsal- these frocks, but there
is no indication that anything but
an abdominal girdle will be worn.
Since the diaphragm has become
free and the hips unrestrained. it is‘
possible that women will perma-
neatly rebel against oontraptions
The tunic flares softly cry-acid.
at knees is long— waistrd has long, on the [rock in metal threads.
that estrict either.
Cat erlne do Medici brought from
Italy into France several habits and
customs that were not wholesome.
one of which was the thirteen-inch
waist and the corset. Possibly fash-
ion, along with much else, has re-
verted to the freer living and cloth-
ing of the ancients. As time is
measured by history. the corset has
played only a short role in feminine
apparel, and it may diminish until it
vanishes. The corsetieres. do not
suffer. It is far more expensive to
look uncorseted than corseted. Few
of us in othenday! were wont to
pay thirty-five dollars for a few
inches of elastic and bone, butyani-
ty and desire for comfort make us
do it today. A certain lovely actress
pays one hundred dollars a pair for
her c’orsets without bones.
'The Three-Piece Suit. Gillan
Power.
.v
Even the three-piece
costume
a
This three-piece castume is of
green iclzveteen with slim frock. and
three quarter coat banded with beige
The girdle is embroidered
The
helmcn with its vanishing brim at
back, has a snake-like decoration in
green and gold.
I
clings to the figure, although one
might imagine it would be bulky. It
is a dominant fashion this season.
or course, there are not. three pieces
as often as there are two, but the
name was taken from the original
idea. of combl g a. Jacket. a blouse
and a skirt. w ich could be Juggled
in various ways to give the appear-
ance of several costumes. There are
such combinations in existence, for
many women prefer to have several
separate blouses instead of one at-
tached to the skirt. but when the
dressmakers offer a three-piece suit. ~
they often mean a frock with an or-
ornamental top and a. coat that
matches the skirt. ‘We couldeasiiy
call it a two-piece suit. but no one
does.
The indoor heat of this country
inclines women to beg for frocks
that have thin tops. no matter what
the skirt. In such clothes the win-
ter temperature under a. roof is boar-
able. The coat that goes with such
frocks is' a part and parcel of the
costume; it is not a makeshift gar-
ment. serviceable for all sorts and
conditions of clothes.
This may seem to lead to extrava-
gance in disposing of the dress ‘1.
lowance, unless one chem color and
fabric that hamonize with other
things in the wardrobe. If one has
a. dark green velveteen three- -pieoe
costume, however, which is a. am:
offering of the autumn, ‘it 'muu
stand by itself. It) three~quarter
coat will scarcely match any other
frock. This particular model is dec-
orated with metallic embroidery to
define a. lowered waistline: the
straight coat is handed and bordered
with fur.
It is not easy to Join a. daring
tunic to a skirt that carries it: own
coat. The best thing to do in that
particular case is to adopt the sepa-
rate coat whether it is of fur or
cloth. There are plenty of thus.
Fur is generously used on them. If
a woman feels that she spends her
money more safely in getting moral
garments that can be assembled
without injury to her appearance.
she has the backing of the tnde.’ If
she wants to feel sure of having one
perfectly assorted mute. her
money is wisely spent on 'the flock .
and jacket buiit to holdrtogether.
The diversity found in such coa-
tumery this season leaves all wetne-
satiafied. .
" Evening M hoops.
Itfrockiare tooliag.whatoftbe
hooped taffeta, metal. and velvet
gowns that are altered. ask women.
The answer ia:jthey are for youth.
The school girl can wear these
gowns, so can the debutante. ifshe
has enough of bygone eoquetry. real
or suggested. They are not for the
crossI-legged girl smoking a cigar.
formal blouses are in fashion yer
various social activities, and this
particular one is boldest, but defines
the waistline with slight shining.
It is of beige. satin bonded with
beige fur headed by Mic em-
broidery. The lea-o'mum‘oa sleeves
fit the wrist. The skirt is of brown
velvet.
I.
ette. The Second Empire is not the
source of such frocks. It is Spain.
True, the Empress Eugenie brought
such clothes into fashion in France
' as a token of her Spanisliiblrth, but.
they were made by Worth.to suit
her day and generation. The hooped
skirt and long-waisted bodice of this
season is Costllian. It is a tradition,
as is the mantlile. the shawl, the
cornb all of which are in as good
standing this autumn as they were
two years ago. There are many ren-
eons to believe that the glorious
Raquel Meller. the Spanish‘ dancer
who comes to America. will help to
promote every manner of Spanish
dressing here.
'-.¢
As the fashion stands today; how-
ever. the hooped skirt. pinked and
ruined and handed with ribbon. in
for youth” even youth under eigh-
teen years. The bodice'that accom-
panies it demands the leak of curves
whiclLyoutb proclaims. The waist
beneath itahouldbe as slim as an
hour-glass. It is thanugbly Spanish
inthatitcnrveaoutwardfromtbe
hips, which are kept flat. It is Isa-
bells of Gentile, not M of
England who contributes the en-
houette.
There is a flange in the deconst-
ageofeveningfrocubuttberelse
continuance of the delight in crystal
decoration. . Rhinestones and‘peerle
arelaviablyused. hbuttheyareno
longer sprinkled over the surface in
a bit or miss design: they are put
intof small groups. sometimes star-
ebaped. a-
Viennet and Chanel of Paris were
the powerful designers who spon-
sored'this treatment of decoration:
There is no evidence that it will die-
appear with the autumn. What
might be called "spontaneous bead-
.——
.—w
to a Peach
ing" is out of the picture. There
must be a suggestion that jewels are
sparingly used to form 'a decoration.
Rhinestones are again as cornmon
on evening gowns as though the
river 'Rhine belonged to Moe.
m
FASHION NOTES
Reel-educates _ of Watteau Tints
A woman with a pompadour of
white hair who appeared in a.
Watteeu pin): satin gown at a
summer resort was conspicuous by
reason of wearing a color that
had been shelved for years; the
truth is she was indulging in a
new fashion. She had gotten the
frock from Paris before the rest
of us. _ It is established now that
we are to wear Chinese blue. VVat-
teau pink, satin and pale green.
Formal gowns appear in these
three light tints- They are of
sat-in and crepe, of taffeta and vel~
. vet. Pink velvet embroidered in
seed pearls and rhinestones in the
Elizabethan manner is a newcomer
to the electric lights. Women with
grey hair should welcome it.
Water color is a. delicious color
for fair women; Peking blue is
commonly attractive. The three
colors give relief to the Oriental
riot of red, Jade, purple, gold and
silver
White will continue its useful-
ness in the evening. It is embroid-
ered with crystals as the‘lndo—
Chino influence puts white stones
into play. Also silver tissue. The
extraordinary uses of the latter
need a whole story. It is too im-
portant to sidetrack. In keeping
with it. there is much silver
Y3?"
rfl
thread embroidery and quilting.
The former is used to make a
black velvet gown gay; the latter
is a dominant decoration for
jackets and for longer formal
coats.
The Sheath Line in Coats
v
It is necessary that gains
should “ be straight or easily
crushed to the azure. for topooetl
have taken on a slendernese that
revives the pencil silhouette. I'll!
and cloth are used alike. Black
astrakhsn, mole. broadtail. vent!
are mere eurelopes for the figure.
They (eaten at one side. but are
minus drapery. , _
There is a desirable ceat in
black astrakhan generously trim—
med with grey rabbit, its collar
mounting over the back of bat,“
collars did last winter. its calla
running well toward the elbow.
Sucr coats hays circular runes.
also, which are prettier here than
on gowns. Cheruit introduced
them last August in Paris. so
there is naught of novelty in them.
but they are a pleasing variation
from the conventional.
By the way. there's no need for
the neck to be cold this winter as
collars of fur or cloth mount to
the nose in front and the bat
crown at back. If it is a warm
winter. we are done fer.
,, cu;
I _ a
This weekly gown. out 1;: the prevailing ”an M, is '0!
~10!» apple red velvet through which groups of W on clamped.
If is sleeveless, partially high at neck, and richly bordered with for of the
heat. The long earrings are a] Chinese carnelian W with gues-
titlesofeeedpce’rls
eQ
Norwalk Chronicler