toWhat Well Dressed
By Anne Ri
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Neckline Changes; Tunics and Over-Blouses Multiply; Brilliant Jackets Appear
Chinese ball at the Opera in Paris.
Which has a way of settling things
for the American buyers as it does
for the French dressmakers. Inks
of this Oriental tissue were put
into costumes for this function.
Bushei measures of rhinestones
were scattered over gowns and
headdresses. France intended to
make her Colonial possessions set
the fashions for the world and she
succeeded. All China now yields
up its artistry to satisfy clothes-
makers and clothes-wearers.
Ornamental jackets and turtles
are not limited to social life.
They do not confine their presence
to formal affairs. They have
swung into sport areas. into that
vast field of country life which the
American has adopted from her
English kin. There are open
jackets of heavy cream flannel.
vividly embroidered with flowers
or. better still. bordered with
pieces of colored silk cut into for-
mal designs. They fasten at the
neck and nowhere else. A frock
or blouse may be glimpsed be-
tween the open fronts. If the
latter. it is of cream crepe or silk.
cut slightly low in the neck to
show an arc of skin between
blouse and jacket collar.
There are two fashion features
incorporated in this Jacket or
sacque. as our ancestors termed it.
One is the applied design in colors
that are not subdued; the other
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Nae “seen one: swag theeyuader sChouette that has some
Nor-k into fashion.
r;’t’r-:
(‘APRICE of the new seann
A is a scarlet Jacket with a
black velvet shirt. Its rival
-. an Oriental jacket o! quilted
5 .'-‘-r cloth with a black velvet
'ltlr'. These are novelties. The!
in part and parcel of the move-
mecr to make the upper’psrt of
13° body a bless of 81017-
There are long tunies that carry
' " 'he same idea. The! I"
”red from Persian and Hindu
" zrcna They are otherwise
frankly Chinese. They may be
r. implied in suchvariety of fabric
at: ”l
moment their real loveliness st-
x-rws Also. they give a woman
. rhance at that desirable thinl:
“ methlng different.
The one-piece frock is living
Ch of its hundred lives. It III
coloring that we will wish.
12w had died at birth. But at the,
It is of Neck estrous lavishly heaped with my
Tia-re is a service collar of the far, also 1016613117: 0] it.
no intention of being vanquished
by only half a garment. like a
tonic. Several such frocks hang
in our closets. They save worry
and anxiety. but women want
something to talk about when the
season changes its name and its
temperature If someone appears
in a scarlet Jacket with a black
velvet skirt. there is something to
talk about. Be assured of that.
If one goes to the theatre or a
restaurant dinner in a Hindu tunic
of silver cloth covered with black
stitchery or embroidery in flowers
of crystal beads below whidh is a
plain skirt of black velvet. theer
reason to believe the other women
will say: "Look! There's some-
thing new."
There is no end to the clever
methods with siIVer cloth. It
came into high fashion after the
is the narrow hand collar that
goes straight up from its single
button. Both are to be seriously
considered by those in search of
what is new. Both are taken from
Chinese sources.
Gowns of excellence embody
the. ideas. We get so many
copies of gowns by Chanel and
Jenny of Paris at this mason. that
it is interesting to know how both
these designers twist and turn
such Chinnse tricks more ingenh
ously than the Chinese would care.
to do. Possibly Chanel calls them
Russian. as she is completely
given over to costume tdeastren
- the land of her {fiends who are
exiled in France and we are
familiar with the decorative value
of applied figures to gowns by
reason of the popular Roman
stage plays and dances. but the
ideshspartofallthatancient
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thh
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;' it
growing popular overlies-s. Vel-
vet dares are applied to deer-
Me craps frocks to go under a
velvet coat. Silver cloth designs
are huttonholed to velvet. cu—
oredwoolortafletaisputon
do Chine.
. Over-blouses achieve distinction
with tour-inch borders innueh dos
signs placed at hem. atmvst
neck. .Asblackandwhiteheeh-
blnation has takenon a new lease
of life no woman need m the
brow in choosing colon. '
The Chinese W is see
frequently used on new 'cbthuho
be looked upon as an M
to shorten the life at the basesn
openinx- You know what it is.
don't you? Just a straight. nar-
row band. usually highlym
ered- The modern adaptation of
it would not be tannin: to a
Chinamsn. It is out twice as long
as the neck size. hall of it is at-
tached to the neekhand of the
frock. either back or front. and
the ends are tied loosely over the
skin. Chane: cut: her frocks down
in front and ties the collarlhand
there. Jenny and motions
opposite. There are decorative
and plain bands: there are narrow ‘
fur ones. especially of white as
mine or rabbit on black rabbit.
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A: Ian—One of the French models of importance is this comfy-y by Worth, trhich represr’h‘s the eflort
M the arise-seek style.
eve
momm.
the west of stockists. Such ess-
tumss were not the exception. but
the rule. The nnclad “W
girls of New York would eases a
yawn after the bathing sights of
August. Why. then. should we
cart! at a return to the low eve-
ning gown? Certainly our grand-
mothers did not.
To be practical. however: he
revived dacolletage is ”inches
square. egg: it is Haltsm {at
ms hang e an Arsb’ s
y beneath
tied with most (a front.
chosen to Americans. The soft tissue is quilted it has a high collar of fur it is open do-
some?“ is a black wire! skirt.
It is of beige doth, soft and supple cut straight tritium: a. belt carrying its
At right—This jacket of 31' 16’? coth is a new Lanrm model from Paris
1: the front, and
eomnissionersinhugust and itis ,
heralded in these States as a
tuition otmerit.
The sheath frock'with drapery
mmum-
diet, of Paris, for the
AW trade about:
queer collar u“ long
ends, and the ass—cues
corned out as the
Jeeves.
o
Z. .
”'3‘.
“we
um =mmmm
nus-n
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