A urn/1‘“ " and, Ade-.44..er t... .... . MulIHl/“lyllu- an” m» wm . .4. on Long HAT are we going to wear w this autumn? If we intend to be in the fashion. we will wear many things We do not like while we keep a weather eye on the shifting winds of fashion, which are apt to bring in a new scheme‘ of clothes after the Christmas tree has been taken from the parlor windows. There is too much kinship between the new and the old styles to let us rest in peace. The French are not a whit better in this lack of original- ity than the American clothes mak- ers. Every sailor watches a calm air and ocean with suspicion. So does the dress expert. thI 'is Offered Us. Here are the things that are re- peated from chiffon into velvet. from gingham into cloth: The Spanish flounce on frocks and coats: the heltless sheath gown. the farthingale ho0p below the waist: the tight-fit- ting bodice above the wide ruffled skirt; horizontal decoration: the flat back or front on skirts; the short Jacket; Oriental embroidery or print- ing: the boat-shaped neckline; the ankle-length evening skirt: godets at both sides of a skirt: sleeveless bodices; the Victorian skirt for young girls. Bins ticrs across the front of frocks. That's quite n formidab‘o list of repetitions for two continents to make at tneginning of an impor— tunt season. For just this reason Hm experts are suspicious. They believe that some Will come later in lilo year. possible before the new )n..i‘ breaks. Here are the thinn‘s th'lt are re- \lved. nr reinstated. “huh “no! tn the season sufllt'imlt motion to Mop it from being stagnant: t‘hinese sleeves. long Hll’i “id“. brilliantly lined and furrcd; a moat funnels. The will is lughfly o'ecollcfege ls V-sMped. The!!! Sleeves, - wn a m “D... ) ‘4 I A) normal waistline: the insistence that skirts should preserve a straight line regardless of fulness; the long tight sleeve for day hours. the deep square decolletage for evening; the wrin- kled sleeve _t at extends to the knuckles. also the leg 0' lamb sleeve: a revival of the Victorian tulle skirt whose rumes sweep the floor at sides and back; short skirts for day and often for evening; three-quarter Jackets in preference to the Jumper kind; the revtval of the three-piece frock as a rival to the chemise slip. Here are some important omis- slons: The ornate hip girdle. wide and glittering; garlands of flower- at the side; drapery at one or both sides; the elbow sleeve; the sleeve- less bodice for day; the high decol- letnge for evening; the long shoul- der line that covers the top of arm in formal frocks: the surplice Jacket. except in knitted sport clothes; the stitched-and printed jacket and short overb‘ouse; the platted skirt. except for sports or porch; the colored kid slippers. Fabrics Stimulate the Mind. h fabrics there's more to reckon with as novelty, such as the em- broidered woolens taken from Hin- du and Persian documentary de- signs; the emphasis updn velvet and the nlzenuity shou’n by its weavers. it is emboncd. embroidered. striped. applied in ltzl;ian designs to chiffon or quw. It is in colors that Venice and Unwind ':lpproved, such as Doses .w ti, .‘Uil‘lillit‘ hlue. ashes of rose. Pek- in; him». ul‘v‘nul. tolmz’yellow. terra ttlt‘zl. also llltlck, pale brown. beige. Thr-i‘r'a“:t host of woolen fabrics mu!"- scw'rul trade names. The l' p 1' tr Llnvl have, ribs running through :t soft surface. pliable and ms;- to haul: in the commendable way, which is against the figure. Afternoon or evening gown, soul. the sampled wide skirt, which pre- serve: a straight line on the figure. There are gode'ts of each all; to give the below normal, than: are no sleeper, . anish hat of black velvet is run with f"!!! o] polices no match bodlce of frock. ~ ”s‘s'ed Bl) Aime Rii ’5enllou-St Straight ; Line Skirts, Near-Normal Wants eOl ' . iv _ . ‘. ’- . 95‘ Broadcloth is revived. Satin and of ermine. ofseveralklndsoflmita- long coats are'net available for satin crepe are again on the shelves tion ermine. and chlnchllla. Black walking. , They 'demsndA men; so of shops. Brocadee are so sumptu- velvet capes. circular a.t hem and they are splendidly one one feels that black and be- fitted on shouldersLm lined with frames et tail and brocade linings- turbaned slaves should unroll their white ermine or the best quality of they areswneplng and summing: lenxths on marble floors for inspec- rabbit. . ‘ _ _ Short street costs are offered for American women many-simple and tion. Whatever the Duchess of Milan thought beautiful, that have those who walk. They are of seal . lovelyfsshions, continues to~meke we. Whatever Haroun 31 “chic! and summer ermine. of carscul. of afternoon - costs .snd frocks that could get to put into a girdled tunic, leopard with brown fur. or mink. match; and she has led women into Al right—Evening gown by Jean Pam is velvet, elaborately em- broidered in pastel colors. There is slight drapery at the waistline to mark the normal break, no sleeves and a curious dccolletoge. The trots is one of the fashion features that French dreamers are persuading women to adopt. ‘ iilllllllilllilllllfllllillllllliIlilllillllllllmllllll’l‘lllllililllillllmiiillillllliill’lllflllllll’llflll. Above—ghee! coat for winter from Jean Pawn. of Paris, in a new u‘ool brocade fabric. which has the eflect of being cmbroirlcrrd. Thcre is the circular flounce of last spring with aodets on each side, a bclfless ail- houette from ncck to ankle, wide Chinese sleeves, and immense collar and cuts of red for. we also have. “'hat was considered fit for royalty in the Ming dynasty. the girl on Main Street can buy if she has the price. There's the rub ——the price. But America seems to be able to pay what. these fabrics cost. If not. the trade loses a for- tune. Mettalic tissues of the ancient East are faithfully copied. They slip through a bracelet. Metal laces are abundant; peltry is so lavishly shown and worn that one has a sink- ing feeling that everything that went on all fours has been killed to make women's raiment for a winter. Fashionable furs are mole. holin- sky. white rabbit and its luxurious cousin. ermine. Beige-colored sum- mer ermine is in demand. so are combed caracul, curled caracul. as- trskhan. Persian lamb. broadtail. mink, beaver. red and smoke fox, leopard. gazelle. antelope. are to be had for the asking. When one is able to buy enough of such pelts to swathe themselves like Rus- sians in an unheated palace. one may feeltcompletely satisfied as to their smart appearance. Fur-Trimmed Garments Abound. Street coats are abundantly bend- ed. collared. and culled with fur. Collars are not mere strips of dec- oration. They ”are head high, end can be tuned into a turban if one sowlsb'es. Cuflsmeybemuflgor they may be replaced by several strips of fur that extend to the e]. bow; Some sleeves holding these fur bands are so long they gamma one of Chinese conjurers—one looks foraltversbblttoiumpouto‘ them. Circular flounces. the kind we now call Spdnish because Seville is caus- ing a ripple of excitement smong clothes m. m of for on coats. or edged with it. Adults and mu of'fnr do not appear. Victorian costumes may introduce tiny mulls. especially of ermine with tails. Evening coats are built of mink. All these ' lillllllllililllBUMHWMIWWHIEMWWWWWWWIIWMlllle’lilll Mark the N... Clothes volmtcoseslinedwlthfur. Y in black lined with ‘white ram oversgownofwhitespplled Wthd‘gnsotvelvet. Thislsan “Mn'ldeafovscostnme. The MW of its topcost permits minyagowntosssochtewlthit. Tom Afflvo at Importance. Although the three-piece suit is bee-aldedsstnebesteuoipment for tbs‘etreet, there is s prndklous showmsotetnrdycostsofpromctive -fabrlcs’ that'csnsarvenoothupur- pas than to cover a frock. Thee-e- fer'e. frocks must be reckoned with as a factor of importance. In tint mooning brings to a head the bells! tint; woman can choose between...- _ with s topcost. s threecpiece fill; a tailored suit of American sec vet! '. 'liepcoats are’dhrva in the mar- ks!” all who hlvrelothes to offer. They,“ cheap and cmtly: they are “Why adorned with fur. Eng- lhhdalrlcs and American pile fsb- nes to Into their making. An Enu- mo would seriously consider themes bdng'lntended for usage in his land of all and fish-hooks. Let us hope I; thesolar‘eclipeewillbringusadry cold mater. otherwise what will we do with our cloth frocks. tweed suits, velvet evening gowns and heavy top- cuts? Bach costs have a flare at the ham-gaintheyarecutassltmss a pull. They have high collars and long sleeves. though the height at hock may be given by voluminous Ryers that reach to the back of head. The high stoveplpe collar. however. has in place in the sun these days. It appears on many ' kinds of gnments. including the sep- arate overblouse, which. by the way. is a most important adjunct to our costumery in itself. Blouses for the Dinner Table. It lsrwell to begin on blouses by saying that the one—piece cloth frock is so much in fashion that one won- ders where there is to be found a place for the blouse. but the moment the prodigality of separate skirts is thrust in one's face. the place be- comes mt. m are not to be kept for the occasional tailored suit. not to be relegated to sports: they aretohsvesplsceundertheelec- trio light. They are rather m for so seemingly simple a garment to the woman who thinks of them in connection with active morning hours. as something akin to a wash ehlrtwalst. But the woman who re- members the blame as it was a. quarterofacentnryagodnds bee-- self in familiar ampuu when she wanders into an amortment of these splendid and decorative pieces of coetnmery. Once upon a. time. womenworetbemtpdinnertnthe muse-m party in theafter- noon. to the theater. They were luxuries then. as they promise to becane now. Fancy s‘blonse of gold lace over transparent cloth of gold cut like a girdle. the sleeves of double caps to the‘ Lanvln manner. the neckilns round at back and front. the hip belt of gold lace encrusted with jade’ and orchid crystals. That‘s not a blouse for shopping or for the dot. It means “IOU. it stands for pleas- ure. There are others, equally or- nate and costly. They extend far over the skirt in the manner of an Oriental tunic. Some of them are genuine copies of Persian tunics. tho kind one thought were relegated to glass cases in museums. Others are East Indian. such as George Arli- wesrs in ”The Green Goddess." These blouses are subdued when they are attached to the three-piece suit for the street. but they do not altogether forego their ornamental character nor sink to the level of a sport blouse. They may be joined to the skirt to ghe ease in adjustment and put the weight on the shoulders. where most wetnen like it. They may be in another shade of the same color as the skirt, or they may be flamboyantly opposed to it. What- ever the imagination suggests an decorative to a costume can be in- corporated in the overblouse. There- in liee its danger. Censors m needed. - Would that they were annotated in the dress industry often and anon. L; l r:v:.l . ... -...... ~v- -‘ Womdvum-awww -I ' *1 . “— MM» A! l- M" l. o ll x' .le - ml" 1%“?7‘!” ‘5 “'fif‘l .4 Ill. mm ~ 3Y2. . kn. ”up...“ a...“ “a”.-. a a .< «noun-“e. . A... ‘1 x . _ ..' ) 4'2,» WWW N» «mum-mm er '3 m e .p_ 1..
Norwalk Chronicler