Evening sentinel, Monday, September 3, 1923 · page 7

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amino canker not or block

port.
brim.

.N the very beginning of so!
I story on isshionable hesds. the

wise thing Ls to loop into the
fight between large and smell
hats. No one cares who will win.
Thst's the trouble. A woman can
take either side she likes. Or she
can take both. Surely one loses
interest in s light conducted with
so little prejudice on the part of
the observers. _

The milliners. in stOcnting
isrga shapes. merely try to per-
Hilario women to buy more hots
vhsn one. in doing so. they sre
sltruistlc in fact if not in spirit.
They nuke it possible for hun-
dreds of women to sppesr less

grotesque. loss ugly. thus they
hove done in the nsrrowobrimmed
helmet.

in a few models milliners hsvs
overdone the big but merely to
draw attention to it. A few of
these are so sweeping nnd majes—
tic they sugmlv the rams-tie
cavalier

Possibly the recrudescence oi
the hugo- plume will suggest to
some milllner the revival oi the
Spsnish hat of the Seventeenth
Century of the kind worn by the

 

 

 

 
 

 

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velvet Wit-on: My on upper

A canard: of ostrich Mothers in colors tolls tress under part of

bnccsneer hero. thst mtsel
Ssbstini has given to us. But
whnt s pity for s womsn to wear
such 1 hst end not be sbls to.
sweep it with n msgniilcent ges-
ture from bend to floor ns did thst
rollicking Peter Blood. the gentle-
mnn-pirste.

There's another new hot thst
could hnve been borrowed from
the pages of Bnhstini’s "The 80‘-
iiswk". It's n high metsllic tur-
bsn with s bright plums or s
crsscsnt of emsrslds such on the
English corsslr wore when he
ssiled out irom Algiers to kill snd
rob. when the Virgin Queen ruled
England; msde him s Knight snd
forgot he wss s pirnte. Clever
women!

The sttempts st reviving im-
mouse hats with pictorinl stmos-
phere sre more npt to succeed be-
cnuse they on oprosssd in block
velvet. A color might hove
frightened talk. The women who
wears. tor snmpio. such s. hst ss
sny one of the three mousque-
tnirss wore. would feel shockingly
conspicuous when check by jowl
with someone who shinglsd hsr
sleek hsir snd surmounted it by

 

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“Dressed WOmen "Will. Wear
1] Anne Rittcnhausr

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Milliners Struggle Against the Small Hat Without

' 1“;

o! n tsrhnn. But blsck
vslvst gives digniu sud lends
poise.

”waistband!“
Lsnvin. of Port. out no

post. You ms: remember her
Russisn tisrs hot. also the velvet
ons trimmed with snsll shells snd
the Venetian veiled ens? Luck
trod on her heels. Thornton's. it
isonthsboohsthstwssrs to
weer tho coolis hst.

Ono modsl is built of blnok
scan—tor satin hos returned to
inshion—snd over the brim. drop-
ping from the peek of the crown.
is s thick tsssei of msny silksn

thresds in lscqusr red. It's s hot
the novelty seeker will like. Not
{see con stsnd it. The

ma
Mch mnks up their fuss to
pdrmit the wearing or whstever

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but whether shs on mods tho
Europssn women to on her
change or been or msthsd. is not
only to torstell. One thing is com
tun: they hove not nocsptsd the
strenuous struggles o! sovsrsl
dressmskers to rsinstnts the
douncsd shirt. the crinolins. the
curving contour. They hot so
slim ss lenses in them clothes.
inst ss thsy hsvs throughout the
spring sud summsr.

Even n POD. found out thst
wheruwmnsnwnuttowoss’sosr~
tsin m tin! wsnr it. Wit-
ness the mstter ot the Pnpsl Bull
and the hennin.

Es ssid: "You csn't go to
church in thst hesdgesr."

"Very well; we won't.” they
sold. They wore the hsnnin snd
wnlked the gnrdens.

The dressmsksrs hsvs snid:
"The straight narrow psth in
(rocks is not the isshion."

“Very well." snswers thswomsn
of the smsrt world. “We will
mske it so." And they do it.
W'hst will we, the Amoricsn, do?

 

 

 

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the sdvioe of the m, but
the inshion expats snd
friends. let ns-bs'thnnktul

Tholmrgo'n-Appesrs
Ongoithsmostgrsclonshts
the student's bm'otwhichws
csllstsm. ‘l'hstlthssbesspnt
hook into isshionis msttsrtor

The flier-t

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one ssthe sesson ripns. It hss
notovsnsbuckle. ltiswornss
itwnsbystudsntsolthsoldbntin
Qnsrtsr when ornsmsnts were not
sssmly. It sppesrs in block vol-
vot nnd sstln, rnrsly in hit.

Women who like to son’s tb
restores oi the toss hsvs thdr
chnnee in tho snlnrgsd poms bon-
not which is sponsored hers. it
is nude in velvet more this other
rubrics. frequently in vnrions
shsdes oi .brown. Its brim is
olonsgtod in front to msks it
more Victoria end to dun-enti-
sto it from the short-bummed
helmet.

It has token on sin and grsoss
like the slmporlng indies who
msde it tsshionsblo in snothsr
epoch. It hss' grown from n
sport hst to one ilt tor sites-noon
psrtiss sud smsrt lnnchsons. it
looks strings to tie under tho chin.
but they any come.

hisny oi the Americas: helmets
hsve the wide brim in front in do-
flnnce of their Pnris snoestors. It
is slsshed st the sides nnd up-
turned. or cut swsy st the book
so the hood msy be psrtinlly
visible. Totsl eclipse is not nt-

~ tructive to n isce or n sun.

There is s strong snort to popth
lsriso the shnpe with on upturned
side brim csught with n oran-
meat or resthsr. At the moment.
it sppenrs too much liks s inner
dress siinir. ss it one needed s
inleou on the wrist to spposr like
s huntswomsn oi the Sixteenth
century.

There is s continuance of the
jockey cap. or the melon hot. as
some call it. It is lsvishly shown
smong the Autumn collections
with the pie~shsped pieces of the
crown bound. iurred or gnllooned.
This is not new in shspo or trest-
ment. but. despite the (not thnt
it needs daring to csrry it od.
there is enough trsde in it (or sn-
other sesson.

Velvet nod Metallic Ribbons

France and Americs units on
velvet as the stsple i'sbric from
which cold wenther hsts should be
inshioned. in blsck. it will dot
the lsndscspe. In beige sod sov~
ernl shades of brown it will be
generally regsrded ss sols snd
sue for most costumes. Thoss
who like sntin better. hnve the
permission oi isshion-msksrs to
wear it. As s mid-ssssos hot it
is sdmirsble.

Motsllic ribbon is twisted into
turbsns or used to trim sny kind
of hst. Its rivsl is the issther.
Full length ostrich plumes srw
used 15 generously ss though the
milliners hsd not trested them
with contempt for s spsn of yours.
They sre streaked ss though they
were Easter e383. shawl!!! I»
mixed medley 0: colors. Theynrs

 

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Gorgeous Blouses Hold Sway

son-rm blouse oi importnncs

thst does not intend to hide its

light under n Jncket, is bor-
rowed from Per-is. it might well
bechristsnedAlleb; “'ecnllbry
thst nuns those huge colored pottery
fine in which we put hydrangea or
other oolossnl flowers. So why not
extend its use to n blouse that is
quits definitely Persian? Anywu.
the nuns is sttrsctivs. even if it
does suggest the Forty Thieves.

The wet-hi one thst clsims stten-
ticnjustnowisnvolnmlnouegnr-
noon! at whits duvet” bordered
with silver nsllhsnsls. The sash is
wrapped shout tho hips. its ends
weighted with the sliver dots.

1s m not w to winks thh
blouse in white. M's M n tnncy
at tho sssson. Dre-sunken srw on-
dosvoring to make white s future.
The mlllinsrs old in producing white
sands tnrbnns nnd hsirnets. Any
other color will do so well. Block
with silver nnilhosds is resHy quite
elicctivs; brown with n border oi
closely lapped sequin mode of crepe
ssrvsswsllonswhohssnbrownor
bsigo skirt. Thsss groups at cloth
mains or iish scales on not new.
but they hsve resppssrod.

The length at this new blame. by
the wny. srrests the nttontion. It is
s rsdicnl deperturs from the short
ones we hnve accepted. It is so
overpowering thst it nukes the skirt
mug-flout, tsking its cue. probo-
bly. {run tho long inchsts thst
threaten um

Printed Ilousss On Dosrosss.

Velvstisnottheonlyunosusl
tsbriensedtorthssutusnncolioo-

 

tion or blouses. Brocade. moirn
Spsnlsh nnd Hindu shswls. gnuss
ti-ue. with embo-ed velvet m
tnhe their pisces in the procession.

Despite n few models. the trend is
nwny from the out‘Iorn end over—
done surplios blouses with the sids
fastening. Remember tlmt ths gar-
ment has gone forwnrd to achieve
sompnrtotthedlstinctionithnd
n qunrter of n century ago. it is
more flnmhoynnt now than then. but
so q we. 80 nre the times.

mre are some very gorgeous
Mousse o! n medinev-sl chsrncter. 0!
course. the sepnrnts blot-e won an
unknown thing in nsdhsvsl time.
But these blouses nro hiriy tnnics
in butt; “Day are m at bro-
csdes. in velvet and mstnllic thresds.
innlltherichcolorsoioldtspes-
tries when they were new. sad of
stained gin- windows. \Bosno d
them hon; straight horn shoulders
toknmnndsomsotthsmsrs
loosely belted in with s girdle n lit-
tle' shove the hip;

Mr forms the trimming for my
of these blouses Theo ore fur
collnrs, or nt lenst strips of fur
nor-oesthe neckottheblonssstths
beck. There ore wide for hens oi.
the lower edge at the blouse nnd
nround the sleeves. nnd sometimes
the round or Vail-sped nod is all
outlined with fur.

The skirt worn under those blouses
is scsnt nod rstbsr clinging in Il-
houetts. Moreover, it is modsrstsly
long. Thus dignity nrsd m or.
schieved. nod nil Gouger of gro-
tmueness which might cane from
n very long blouse end I. very shag
skirt. is nvoided

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

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