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Chinese Influence Seen in Short Gay Jacket and Sleek Hair
.10 by the ancient tinge:- of
'hmn. who puts her impress
‘ .r modern clotha.
...makers do not appear to he
was for new adaptations of
w mammary to our activities
~vironment. The “ports see
7‘. we do not. They snatch at
L. unbrpxdery design, they ouch at
Otnulfimtissheiepushed
l irucly tird bow of ribbon at
{,4 rr'r‘"
e a 'e‘aturrs the upturned brim
c' u 9 in important”.
on an ancient warrior's uni~
l ‘lney find something precious
;-v from :I. yellowed print.
'.-.-\ has made no secret for her
-nre for China over Egypt.
my for that part of it which
"its end calla IndtrChine.
.. France projects. we wear.
’ re it is well to know that she
upon whatever is Chinese.
it uh» shrugs her shoulders over
' _ T .t-asith-Amen furore. and that
~_ aha puts an immense orna-
r 2:: the middle of the waistline
l where drapery into the middle
c- ' n skirt. she says she has done
. - . -_w2es, and will continue to
. despite the finding of dead
Maxim she's right.
fan's
a ..-l
AHA' special silhouette remains/
There is no diminution in
what is
flat at back end full in front. There
are changes in it, however. that
threaten the strong Luxor influence
under which we have rested for A
few months. The chmxes that have
come about make it less
Oriental. “clout”
Evening frocks are still pulled
about the spine and hips to be nth-
top of a turban is due to Chinese
It is shown in this hat at Mark plush and main ribbon,
and round cream, a [ashton that
ered or platted into a full middle
panel that begins in an immense
ornament. but afternoon ones rarely
take on this Egyptian characteristic.
Remember this difference. for it is
important.
The afternoon frocks carry their
fullne- in front, of course. Nearly
every fashionable frock does it it is
not as straight as a lead pencil.
Wanen of conservative tastes may
object and protest. They may in-
sist they can never bring themselves
to be as conspicuously diiferent back
from front. But It some measure
they will adopt the fashion. We do
what every one else does in dress.
It's the first law of woman.
The thing to remember in choos-
ing new clothes is that the hack
must be plain and closely moulded
to the figure. The front must carry
the burden of ornamentation.
Flat Tiers Through Autumn.
Of one thing women may be suret
that tiers will continue. They do
not belong to any one country or
epoch. but they will dominate this
season. Paris and America sponsor
them. Every dressmaker has a fling
at their construction.
These tiers are flat circular
flouncee. They do not give extra.
dimension to the figure. They may
surround the skirt or give to the
front the apron effect. “‘omen like
them better when they do not ex-
tend to the back. for the hot iron is
the {rock’s best friend when nouncea
and chairs come in ContaCt.
The new French clothes show a.
widely circular lower ficunce, which
serves as the hrm of the skirt. and
the growth of the spreading of the,
fabric at the ankles is an important
contribution to the incoming style.
There is no use trying to avoid it
even if you do not like it. The
(Zressmnkers are concentrating on it.
As a fashion it lv‘gnn with the con~
narrative house of Cherult in Paris
as long ago as last August. when no
Unusual dinner gown of jade arecn
satin with Chinese sleeve of grcrn
chiflon embroidered in gold thread.
On front of skirt and bodies are
huge circles done in gold thread with
tassel hanging from center.
one took it seriously but some
French women who like to be first
to start and first to drop a new
clothes feature.
Costs for autumn. the new ones.
are tiered like frocks. ance has
sent over some that are as sinuous
in their drapery about the figure as
an evening frock. but the lavish use
of peltry gives away the fact that
the garment is a wrap.
These fist flounces are forerunners
of the conventional ruffle. We may
not have to wait long for it as a.
popular fashion. Our buyers who.
are in Europe are quite taken up
with the new frocks of such houses
as that of Callot. who sponsor Vic-
torian frocks of colored tulle With
sizable train. The bodicea are tight.
with a. decolletage that shows the
whole curve of the shoulder. They
are edged with ribbon, which in turn
is edged with black Chantilly lacs.
There's a revival of an old fashion
for you. We thought such gowns
were buried in lavender. How can
we Jazz in fiounced shirts with
trains? Is the Wilt: the next dance
to arrive? Are won the brink of
dignified clothes and manners? That.
1. what the students of dress are
In the meentiine, ‘whax
as Chinese influence? ‘
new clothes may
seem. tho-o abort so! iacketg'riot-
ing in color‘and embroidery; those
Themniejechetishm-rowedhom Anahortiaeketsarenotrestriet-
edtosport. usage. Someerepert
and panel of the incoming street
costumes. Smalltrigcoetsaremade
of cloth to match the shirt. but not
the lands! umbrellas. and jade Jew-
elry. seed pearl ornaments, sleek
hair. shingled or closely coined. is
lifted from the streets of Peking.
So is Peklneee blue and lacquer red
themtcoeLwhichisahighlyorh
Mmgordenpoflvfiochof whitewater“
Mon. The hodioe.eoMchopes-ewidduistrost.is
edmeiemendgold.
When you see a smart woman ap—
Dearinelaoquerredsetinjacket.
closely and conspicuously embroid-
Thisparticularshortooetissquare,
with wide sleeves andenarrowmll-
ingrever. Ittahesitepertina
prooemionotsportelathoeasasubo
stituts fortheknittedsweeter.the
amthewoolenooet. Iti-
echangmandeusa-ntonqmom
theoonventipnalgument.
Short Jackets Continue to Thrive.
Thealeevele-aaohetmnotoon-
line in activities to hot weather
days. Thereisededded tendency
in Paris to put such costs over
blouses with mm sleeves that
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One of the fash’onable Chinese jackets in lacquer red satin mm
ered in dull gold thread. It is worn over sport frocks, also with found
frocks. -
Mah Jongg is forbidden in China
except in the Treaty Ports, and the
excitement of finding the game or
playing it outside of Shanghai is
somewhat after the game of ““‘ho's
got the hootch?" over here. Amer-
inns have returned from Peking all
agog over discovering this fact. It
aided immensely in their desire to
buy and to play. Someone whis-
pers: “I know a. little street where
L.
a eoolie can take us where we can
play or buy a set." and 03 go the
tourists in pleasureable secrecy.
“'hat a. world we live in. . . .
Back to the sleek couture. The
women who can afford to show the
shape of their heads. and whose
faces do not need softening by sur-
rounding i'iufi‘. are already at it.
They imitate the head of a. Chinese
doll with the straight hang over the
forehead. Or they brush it back
smoothly of! the forehead. do any-
thing with it over the temples to
make it conspicuous. and do not let
estraylockfallbelowthenapeof
neck. -
The Hat With a low.
The Chinese turban. sometim-
celled the mandarin. is not the sole
example of the newly revived upe
turned brim in millinery,_but it is
the most flagrant one. Its bow is
themusoofthis. Theorownis
round, plaited or gathered. and stop
ofitisalooseiytiedbowofribbon.
France is quite familiar with such
a hat through her Colonial Chinese
po-essions. but it has novelty hos
overwhelmingly popular
helmet. There's a. tight little turban
with brim tan-nod up half the highs
of the crown with a stlfl brush at
mt back. the kind that is out on
the helmet insteedot ribbon. There's
anotherwithehithbrtmintronl
that shows the still existing Ru-iaa
influence by a slight curve forward!
beneath this curve are banked flows
era, or sometimes there is a ribbon
scarf which ties in the tack.
It is more than likely that the“
hats will prevail when autumn see-
mxveleasWOfWM'
velvet edged with gold m
There'seeeppuedmsofm
downtheimtoufliudcflhgeld
thread.
Norwalk Chronicler