RSDAY, JULY 19, 193,
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iii-ZN one wanders like the
w wind around who pleasure
places of this country. in
Mid woodllnd. one sees a
i.~..ioscopic mass of alluring
Women like to dress in
; weather rather than in cold.
discomfort does not count.
, inn true to the habits of cen-
;~: winter one does with a slight
wring of clothes. There’s
I; .~:mng for warmth. something
.- urnament. something for ser-
llven the rich do not squan-
.— Mme on the accumulation of
i smut. You notice 1 say “time".
' money. That's the true way
pit the condition these days.
.. are all too busy to put our-
3 in the hands of the dress-
itt“r3 for hours a day. to haunt
~hops and try on ready-to-
.— ciothes. to match fabrics.
;1n;: seamstresees. and emerge
lhi‘ sowing rooms only for
M. . Once upon a time women
s. 1 "Oh. if I only had the money
' ,w' :1 new frock." Now they
rn the fact that they have no
w attend to thir clothes.
,.row that is true. You have
. So have your neighbors
lT‘id over. But they say it
~. 1' more often than in sum.
There's something about
: Htlilf‘l' that makes women
- , Zuzhcs. plenty of them, with
beauty. ornamentation.
.zn rusxly irritated in warm
by having to put on the
..t yesterday. The hat of to-
\ must be a change from
.. if, of today. We like cucum-
:rrvr-n one day. watermellon
:11»; next. celery white the
r‘ ln'S.
'- 4.1;“ 7")
T's-s
.srceqfsa
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.7»-.~_,~ 'bfifi"
embarvna—«N'I ”A,f>-a-g
'e summer is a time for trying
\ :iHmn fashions. That's why
vimihes of the hour at the
. 1:0 places where smart
. «v. fort-gather are provocative
.v-‘r than idle gossip. Many
f "wm have leapt across the
:x with their owners who wore
- :'nwni-l at the Paris races or
.3 .1} gayetics about the British
".z‘t. 'Some have been sent
’1 x: by American buyers who
w- hr'cn running hither and you
i‘mnvn to catch the drift toward
manhunt new. something with
:_ .v . America is not familiar.
implu of knowledge are com-
- i 411v with tales of curious
”51% .md hats in France and sta-
'2r= or what is popular and what
‘0:>v’mp,<~fiA/‘He‘q
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mat m importance. No e of as
$0 viMently nationaist that
via not recognize that what
‘rnrvc \«eara we will soon wear.
of us are so modest that we
. :mt like to say of a new style
112’ he were aWU'e 0! its shadow
car the horizon.
.,¥:~_.3..._...._-
.. , x
“Thr- Ford" Frock of Frau
Here's :i hit of important gossip,
f‘r instance. that ,caused us to
it mrhl some concern upon our
rta. The gos'gip weht some-
zlto this. as women’s gossip
:~' to do when there's much
.. .l and eager eyes are lead-
.-n to hurry:
‘ i’l'n'ry year there’s a Ford
177‘ it ill France. That's what the
nails call the gown we see
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that here. at the races. at Deau-
\..-. in the leafy Ritz garden for
. at the Hermitage for dinner,
‘ 'im. i‘re-Cataian for five o'clock
" airing. One season it was the
Tiny flown with the side irill and
'I-IA'. gown is still mug in Amer-
1“ So are Fords. This season
it ;: I‘aquin's gown with the tiers
awross the skirt from. Paquin
Lil; mme to life again. you know.
‘i‘cnrs of deadneu. Now very
smart. Madeleine b there and the
Fmart French and. Americans are
”Wiring back to the house on the
TH“ lie in. Pain. which was in so
(inch a coma recently that it failed
Lu shmv collections to our buyers.
“You see the! tiered frock
0""rY\\'hcre. It is in crepe. in
“Ha. This Autumn it will be in
Cloth. The back is flat. of course.
(’31- you've no conception over
h??? of the flatness of the figure
and the head at the back. They
bath look as though they had sub-
mitted to a planing machine.
Whatever there is on a skirt of
Lines: or ornament. it is in the
“Out. Apron eflects are dottins
in" frocks of France. These hiss
”,3 give the apron effect. Skirt;
I” so narrow over there. Mi
"fl" of them are lingdibofif:keho‘
P c C
1h .treet ones res the tail
We listen eagerly. We .,
cred silhouette.
szl Lg:
‘-——i
fashioned of ev
ery kind of metal
:2: 11:01 that the world, civilized
ment. erwise. has worn for orna-
“Now about heads.
is vanishing. Long hair
Women over sixty
I
i
flattened ear locks. imitating the
men of another century. When
this coiifure is annexed to the
Jockey cap with its front visor or
the narrowbbrimmed turban or the
tiny helmet a woman appears to
«Mafia? satin afternoon {rock with sleeve W M extends “ the
m m and t, edged with narrow fur. The clean is amped upward 6*
s with the fullness falling in a panel that is We do“ with
991W.
have their hair shingled at back
and massed into curls or fulness
of some kind over the ears when
they do not brush it straight back
with brilliantine. There is no
knot to make a bump. it a woman
won't have her hair shingled. it is
cut short. divided into two strands
at the nape of the neck and each
strand is flattened to the head and
held there with a tortoie shell
pin. It's the most curious effect,
this sleek. flat, minimized head.
Women run to pin points. 80. of
course, the hats are tiny. The
helmets in this country are Gains-
boroughs in comparison with the
high-crowned. almost brimless
shapes over there. The shaving
brush has come back. It replaces
the cockade of fabric or ribbon.
lt sticks straight up, or out.
“There's a new hat of impor-
tance and popularity. by the way.
The brim is sharply dented into a
tiny point in the exact front in-
stead of visoring the eyes. One
hat carries its shaving brush just
above this point, flattened against
the crown." -
The Mod Head and Back
Women should consider the pre-
veiling silhouette with a good deal
of concern. It is not a particu-
larly graceful one. If nature has
given more curves than are needed
below the spine and over the hips,
this flattened back. suggestive of
the ancient Oriental fashions is
not the best that can be chosen.
Curiously enough, the French
are the last race of women in the
world who should attempt such a
They have more curves
are long-waisted and sag over the
skirt in the manner of other days.
Shoulder capes continue. They
are seen on cheap and costly
gowns. They are specially desir-
sbleinlace. Afrockofseegreen
net with dyed lace run through
with flne gold threads. to which
was added a necklace of jade
beads. stands out with distinction
among its fellows. lts skirt has
three apron flounces of the lace.
its slim bodice pulled over a girdle
lining has a waist length cape
swinging at back. forming short
sleeves by covering the top of the
arm and fastening to the front of
bodice.
It would not be possible for so
much that is Chinese to enter the
front door of fashion without per-
suading us to wear several shades
of pale green. It is not as easy to
wear royal Jade green as some of
the other tones, but it is done.
Green necklaces rank above
others. Agate, which is much less
costly than jade. is chosen by
those with moderate purses or
taste. Green crystal beads serve
those who have only a few scat-
tered dollars for ornamentation.
Alpaca Pleasee Smart. Women
France's fondness for thin silken
alpaca last summer persuaded us
to try it this year and it has been
acceptable, though not popular. It
is still exclusive. It is quite lovely‘
in brown. especially the leaf tones
which give it a look of fragility.
One notable gown worn at a
rm: ouA 53:31: soceufml’l“ a“ so m the smndanerglfisn. gee!
With. them' pearls close to a. m to b. pro; 0We 8:13 m5?
neck and dripping ‘3’" mo {’13: gfiiflufi‘fiaim. effort 1;
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.5." warmers” are; 93".; carat: 3:22:
31:31:; egg??? brilliant as of clarinet. ngmvgélt?"
thos worn by " “mint“ can“ ° 3 ' t ed"
Neg“; “Rm” mg. % with the establish‘ed‘fveg-hfghlol’i: be all'front and no back. as if she l'omol some nucleic! corn-col-
Slow 1.1.13. glass: 01 " u “a ”a u and look well?’ Accept it had lost one or her dimensions. and m WWW end side
:a'd s i' _ umbrelle' “k. “a be a bit giggled m Of course, we will try it. all of am My. magmas
“a"m‘gi n t The flattened r 301;; us. We hen tried everything that of an more, ms t. e roses of
Homes mm”°'m. pounced by r08!” 4,} 8 lift fashion has sponsored. The importance nus summer. The I’-
¢°§F I We"! mg“ let me tell from of the skirt- he apron e - Autumn will get the full beneflt standing caller is of "as: brows
Oh. wait a II “are slim?” g.“ permits whatever ornamenta- of it and we may end by thinking summer "be.
you that tion one chooses. Rum“. 4107!. it quite graceful and acceptable. ‘
out of s is. NO 1"“, . ”a, throw the apron into fill- lntheinterim. summer weather
'vrromsu wears mot-”Mu to noel. ed this gives the annual chance to wear pl has white organdie
heir heads em. “FM“. 11.. “In” have com a vast variety of things. The plentifully sprinkled through it.
hold them. Tilt! W “'5 m“ of the dreesmakors into 8W3!“ silhouette prevails among There's a deep gaimpea'ufled. ex-
Leg 3,. “11 you M M all M out of mink. No the best bygone. There is little tending into long sleeves with
rings. They are train!- m W's-tame of flufliaees one that hoops out or shows much of radios pennants and a panel in-
down insmamm‘w Mourthemthehair the Secondmmpire influence. even um mu, m. dd. ocean. The
sreulmum b. ‘3.“ a. ears is like that of a though the style remains. Full observer thought it .would have
nun"; name” 19! ,wmmhesbeeo insvrim— skirtehide theirfulnees by cliagh'éaeea betterwith abut or cream
gonad them-motili- are“ III!- mm‘ifle‘dopt the ingtotheflgure. eleaderbodicee abs-1c, engnot We. Bythe
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':~ —_a"~:—:T
at: Well” Dressed Women Will
By Anne Rii ienhouse
Wt [.923 31753 Mame New,- 'Smte. a ‘ ‘ g a
L GOWNS WORN AT DELIGHTFUL PLACES
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way. the woman who wore this
new kind of frock topped her sleek
head with one of the new helmets
which has a bow loosely tied at
the top of the sectional crown.
This fashion is taken from Indo-
China.
For Worn, Despite Hot Weather
Clothes with fur ornamentation
dot the pleasure landscapes. Let
the thermometer stand where it
will. no woman complains of pel-
try rippling over her garments.
This is another proof of the power
of imagination directed as one
wishes.
Black satin gowns without
sleeves and showing a bare neck
offset this effect of coolness on a
hot afternoon by having the arm
opening edged with narrow beige
fur. As the opening extends from
shoulder to waist, there's a goodly
splash of paltry. The drapery on
the skirt drops like a sash end
down one side and it, too. is edged
with fur. The thinnest of‘sum-
mer capes have wide upstanding
collars of beige fur.
Thankful are we that the dress-
makers don't ask us to wear black
fur. They give us ermine in its
two seasonal shades. white and
tan. The animal that grows the
fur is self-concealing. lending it-
self to the alternating snow and
dust of Russia. Evidently. the
trick does not save it. for Amer-
lenient-women have what they want
0
Mommas-Mk
Whanreformersaskwomento
hidethelrbsrearmsendnecks
of fashion.
Never was there a season of
such public exposure of shoulders
arms as now. Gloves are
taboo. So are scarfe. And‘criti-
has ceased. We are so
familiar with the appearance of
women over here that the visitor
to and Iondon 'writea home
that women’s arms are covered to
5,.
- 'l'he' new french gowns have
open‘ _necks, beck'and front, but
sleeves are long and, important.
Again. that'alsugg‘estive of the
Gown 0! my satin scans of an
afternoon wedding in the country.
It is uniquely trimmed with a wide
fiounce of my organdie that ea:-
tcnds the length of the frock. Silver
buttons follow a strain“ line to
ankles. " "
“not crummy-.wauo-
Nona! cream and upturned brim.
mmmmummmwtn
ethics: deemoyeohaemau.
WWQMWhMeefl-s.
Orient. Our new Autumn clothes
will not be sleeveless. Possibly the
sumptuous evening gowns will
have sleeves in imitation of the
lode—China costumed-y from which
we take our one this season.
it's well that women
make the beat their comfortable
habit while it 1
aids and abete the fashion.
The weather
Gown of leaf-m am one 0!
the revived summerfabrice. Gui-9e,
sleeves and side panel on shirt on
of white organdic rufiltd with leg
The skirt is draped below a m
”9.153.“ “
Norwalk Chronicler