Early Autumn Clothes
lefse two mm- crrxi salts um
iron: at [Ongt‘hc'nps m rhr {resent-e
c' the American buycrx to show the
change from the: short :umpcr :ockct.
raglan r-rwtf 'r: “v "
buff *3 v“
7014‘,
>1va 5‘ I:
Fr’fmn (c a rut n' pvt (chh with
vi tr-ih thrrr large
{To 5% 'irrs nar-
125:.ncrd.
fan i-
..., .7 .
(he ’iorr at firm i
‘ c licr an
61 um); _
-.« is a formal tailored suit with narrow body to f r . ,: “v.1
ml“ "viriviq I‘lvéfr part The titer" are narrow at should”, 1: .~ n;
H] ‘ I ‘ V i .- ,
and whrra rhry arr carelessu turned ot'rr to show a go, .1477), .1
:0'7 “CL-Jime- ix woininined
V’l: "I: hold; :hc coo: togcihcr.
T'
1.. .‘
”331E is every reason to believe
that the clothesmakers will try
to rm: inn; jackets in fashion
ire of shnrt ones when the first
uncarin: of autumn arrears.
l.‘ thzs transformation takes place
it is “ism nn'i sonszrle to get whet-
4»: 'r sr‘r\'f’”e a short jacket will give
it’. tr!- warm weather. It the. style
‘3 z-mlontlv rhanzcd women Will not
2mm 2:. ‘Th!_': mu follow it. not at
'st. probably. but before the turkey
cranherrv is on the ta. 0.
5 Firms is la'ying down the law to
l"? American tuyers now. but those.
who deal in hulk of resdy-to-wes.
rirthns e‘arted the idea of the long
r 1? hciore the ultra French styles
c1rne into being for the dressrnssers.
I‘mince has had enough of the short
J:mrer jacket, and well she mis‘ .
fr».- ;t was as commonly worn their
13‘.er czghten months no as it s
rt'w on every beach. ezery country
‘ ’ ' - u‘ee
‘a‘f‘nt-egfléafiixeat}; g: trestment and
.' niion has been
10;?s42naerrgent. Thereicsn be nothing
' e imaginst on.
icfiiéemm'oze o:ten thsn straight. i:
is lmided more often than plsin. hi
has the inevitable sash on one‘ 2
or the equally inevitsble bucks .lt
the tight hem. It never “mi:
never :uttons to the chin. snc n-
novations may he tiven a can:
when cold westher comes for x o .
who refuse the length end v0 2:2?“
cf winter coats the meters
'9
“an: is more than probable is
that the listing pepium will be the
in the cut of short Jacket
5:22:33,” who are flithful to it.
As there must be more than one
tor the various atom
tinentsl lsndscape.
eii‘ect over the
leasing chants.
' 'm b. ‘ 9 here hsd so
upturned horn nove-
othss since the Can—
influenced ma:
little of this
pent in out =1
Woman
tried out on.
It is sur-.
— 'W.”
~--- “-9.
:_ O- -_ a ’ .
by ornamental braiding and a bra button,
clothes last summer. We get out
flat-flowered embroidery from that
source. the extravagant use of tzrrls
and peacocks. of jade and crinred
heads. of broad calorful horns a<
borders and a brill.a.nt display at
jewelled fabriCs. Our sfi-(‘aifari
diamond gowns came from lnrin-
Chine. So did our long and splon'lzrl
sleeves with the flaring cuff, "VLF
should we have ignored the flat-Ln:
jacket with its upstanding horns on
the hips? They are excessively be-
guiling. these movements of
and give youthfulness to all but the
hopelessly stout and thick-ct.
They mny confuse the convictions
of those who are‘ not used to horns
on their clothes. We have taken to
ourselves so much that smacks of
the Pscific Orient in the last few
months that we should nnt haw:
hesitant? in adopting whatever
looks queer snd un-Chris.;an. ‘r it
some of us do. The short jacket
whose peplurn is convoluted into
sharp little flares over the him. that
curiously reminiscent of corn:-
copisel. may make us feel as
though we were trying to be mina-
ture Chinese modes. Therefore,
we may reject them. But the Amer-
ican dreamskers will see to it the:
modulations set in end the conven.
tional America: will be pacified.
. win
Youthfulnoss Banished B, Long
Costs.
As the sum tots! of the American
women's fashionsble desires is to ":re
emaciated and youthful she has a
herd eflort ahead of her to 1:32:21
such wishes in the wearing of the
new long 608".
The short Jacket bu youth in
my line. It even helps the un-
questionably stout to reuin some
measure of bouysncy in their sp-
pesrsnoe. But. it leaves the knees
cold. None M. m to deny £113.
In mu:- wsstha. in certain sec-
ms at our confluent. it is impers—
-a’.
.....
- a.-.” - -
if," ;?
'..
.7)
a
’ivn ‘0 an :ro'e‘twi f'fl’n coliarbone
3" kin-Q. Tho “'1Tmr' hart jacket
;:' {“2115 to on time.
rf'
l ,9 r",/ir‘r. hr-{zronn “'al'ffl and
lrrv‘rzimr - u ;“..'ll 1: 'ho now dilemma
’r rer u’Jfl '25. \\'c chum-e the
'r-rw‘ ( ' A“\'.:“, a? a r,;lr.-. So let
the .r" ”1] rlr- .rln. it is sell to
Thufik anna’l r! 2*».- mnmcnt when
t'ra rrwsr- m'7yt He marl”. however,
so 2': nuts! 7:: frui‘wt-la to spend e
frw r} the hot hours thinking what
25 has: to *‘m 1th they are over.
km”: r: lrng coat that fashion
.5 for the autumn has been
the French races to
.ml stirzil'nn the American
In arr 'lx re Ranking for our
Two moat conspicuous
fine ;,rnrr..;orl garment
throe-qxarter in icnztn with
‘.'."O 8‘.
’ S Ff
V 031‘!
Cecil->5 flares at the tern. One was
razlan men wear in
cum-r “as suggestive
Bourbon Court Costs
“rap with pro-
Fur encircled net}:
‘ 17:51.5 and three huge buttons
frrln‘s tozether over the
In America. this cost showed
{me lnzttcns. VT». do not like that
trsc}: of the French in giving our
hands too :3er. to do in adjusting
the wrap to the w;r.d and snow.
Their 113:1: must have been ms-
ioned 102' this work for they never
can” :ht't.’ ac “vines in this field.
That is the r” U“. the great mass of
edied to s
our lack of gesture and
our disinc ation to constantly keep
our garme .s '“ place.
French clothes are
the French tonizzerament and peCu-
liar mr ‘emcnz o: the hips and
hands. V j c;r bu:.ers do not real-
...‘h more farce is hard to
ize 231.:
explain. The French drusmker.
defined for
dred times a (lav.
We sdopt the oliveoshaped open-
ins. which slips from side to ride.
making us look more or less gro-
tesque. without giving our hands the
work to do. “'12 don‘t know that the
fashion fits the French nervousness
of gesture.
But back to long «bats. (Ilnw
hot weather makes one stray frnm
the broad and brawn highway.)
The second notable cont “cm at
the Hench races was of gray silk
gabardzne. the sleeves tight at
shoulder, loose and cox-chub rollml
back at wrist. It was {\‘iilolx- opened
ovnr the "host to give a rlnnco to
the immense rollin: collar which
promises protection in col-i wrathor
lay buttomng to the no”. The hips
are highly ornamented. which is the
trick that give.- tha sutficstinn of
formal Court mots. The long waist-
llne is accentuated ‘Jy lmttlnmoms of
braid and one mnunitlmnt n-mio
button holds the pnrmont in pi'u‘fl
below the normal waist. T‘m i‘.:\ro
of the hem is pronounced. It swrops
out into sharp folds us did the pol-
lanls of Louis XlV's day.
As far as this cont has none in ii:
fashionnhle carocr it has hep-i made
of stuff that servos for the s‘rr-vz.
If the drossmnkcrs dccirio to usn it
as an afternoon mod“! nr «\‘vn ma :1
sleeveless cvcninz mmiol. it would
look amnzinzlg- “MI in l‘llitwcu or
Hindu brocade. Tho hrnul I‘fl'll‘I 2m
replaco‘d by jnwollml cmllroilnry ug-
gnllnnn. li nr~mls a mini." n.“ f‘nv
proportions to carry it. K :s nu: fur
tho col-like nnprnr mmmurinz almut
the foot five. But rim and hat-
kindred Will wear it if it lwcnmcs
the leading shapr‘ in wars. ’
Thorn was so much "Vulr‘nrn that
the “arid l:ked the I‘m-‘11:: 34.4w!
last wlnlor that it m'u‘ hinr :1 :w-n!
chance for roinslzitt‘rnr‘rzi “'hr‘n tlun
“’Pfllhel’ permits. It 15 I‘l‘l.llf‘ljf
girdled, which tho new long out:
are not, but lhv prosvnnn M“ ii."
:ahnr-‘hnc Cont at tho mm a “‘Hll :':
sharply innvurnl l~.;»l;nn Lu» 1 .u
to the brim! llml all ran..- w.l1 nu:
be straight and Lciilcss.
Rittenhouse .
Copyright l923 by 77): ”can? Newspaper Sylnfcafe.
Promise Long Coats for
cannot understsnd the difference be.
“Wen types. Their women like to
keep the oblong shoulder line in
place by their bends. doing it s hun-
No Return of the Princess Cost.
It is a happy beginning to the
autumn fashinns that we sre not
asked to wear the long-fitted coat of
a gust decade. We have not the
curves thny need nor do we wish
them. The Pnrslan tunic hi!!! the
upper part Of the body. but u it was
one of the first formal garments in-
vented {or men it needs no curves.
It is like a straight cuimu end is
vastly lornminm
The new l-Yt‘nch coats of the slab-
nruie type outline the body from the
“met up. hot there is no curvins' in
:11 the Inn-or (div! and the under-
nrm $0.1m! are straight. They are
(‘3!y tn wv‘nr.
The :mrnrlant feature of the au-
ttzmn tailored suite is their lsck of
bolts. _\lnn_\' of the coats swing fr”
frvm the shoulders. Their width at
tho “amt is so pronounced that it
accotiiizntc! the purposeful narrow-
noss of the shoulders. The sddition
of .1 narrow skirt hrlnfl back an old
and familiar outline to the figure.
The Cape Back Continues.
cmpa do chine is to be continued
nin autumn for street suits because
n if :rns the jumper jacket. There is
a short coal :zsm‘l with a tiered sklfL
:‘yw two int-mini: tho somhlance of a
{rack and the jacknt carries a cape
xt ilxn lurk which gives an exit to
1139 arms. -
on a new suit of black crepe
Mummin the mm in edged wlth
thrrnw fur. It in the only part of
th-\ r. stzmm that carries polin’.
lerv‘ in :1 rt'nr-u'Pd usage of fur
.m Full: m: it i.- gontly done. some-
“ in»: :zr'I-r thr- manner of last season
\IIH‘". . his and ends were turned
st'vw‘iilirnd accessory-m h\' the
.ll‘r-7n'1‘it‘v‘l‘! nflnr the media-val
It was .1 likoable trick.
to tho or'nnr‘mlfl. pleasing
\xr-z‘nr-r whose shelves are
(run-rind with hits of
. .a ;ar~llr‘-‘. inn small for the
4 7\l‘.".l'1'l‘. dnvw‘rralinn‘
\ fr-v of mu new mat s‘eeves
uzdn L'anllf‘t cull.- thzt ar.
Wyn-3...} 1.. mo ell-ow l-r’lnw 1 line
or braiding. An
button will make them
intn
T 1\ n
Iv‘. rm :1 r' lcl‘y
ortmm' :.t:ll
New pm for autumn rode of watered silk trimmed with bands a!
white one! fastened with pearl butter-s.
There is a large collar of can
translate. The mnkm resemble: the minaret of the your helm the
I
1 v‘
a
Coat suit of block Moroccan I‘V'rp‘. The locket has 5 cups .0.
through u‘hich (hr mm. f‘nu’v'qr qml
fur rfigrs ti. 7M9 are three “0'.
on the skirt and a wide collar urrr tho neck of the Jacket. TM. Us“
resembles a frock.
tight st the wrists. Gaunilrim M'
the way. reappear on several r-f the
recent importation: for autumn.
Gold lace is UN”! on 5 Mock satin
sleeve es one of the novelties.
Materials That Hold Fashion.
Satin is revived for new frocks
and suits. Crepe do chine. prlnie’l
and plain. will continue in he ' hr-scn
with I! much enthusiasm as though
it were newly rhrisienbd. Thin.
kssha. silk broadcloth, fine Enzliuh
suitings. wool rum. and some Fnrze
will be used for coat; and skirts:
when they are needwl. There is
nothing radically new in fabrics for
sturdy clothes. slihmsh the bra—
csdes and watered silks. fine silks
and printed crepe for conspicuoua
clothes all thefounters. Theweav-
,, _.. ..
M m sleeves to he soars this autumn.
lees assumes of [or embroidered to the [sbflc oi the elbow. the
other sum as outstanding gentle: on s was out. use" lee-Isl
maddenflcsdsflflgoukos. , -
er! and drxere have done their bed
this season to imitate the splendor.
of China and East Indil. and M
success will giVe us a chance to be
as glorious as birds at Paradise
when social life starts.
(Hd-isshioned watered silk. called
moire, is revived for autumn along
with sstin. France bu shown
many of them to our buyers. and
‘hey have been sufficiently worn s!
the races to exploit the IMO. Th.
weave ls supple It is humus.
that all fabrics should be sofl. for
than; is a continuance of Clln'in‘
(lothes. The presence of width 60..
not alter the silhouette. Magnificent
Mot-atlas. despite their formality of
design and coetliness, have lost
their stiffness. They show no lo-
s;=tence to drapery.
“ _
Oseumeusu