MONDAY, OCTOBER 16. 1922.
lnfallible Pages of
About Those
History
“Sensible
l, y
FRENCH .
ioEbLENTUQY
HAT . ~
Re‘iv earl» DisconCertiiig * Facts I‘
odes: ’ “of the “Go
.s'
Odom DayS’i’
. mfg.
' world, it is‘said that an.entlre:hquse can
WHEN FAlR sex ESCHEWED
HORNS THEY ADOPTED me
CONE SHAPED BONNET 7-3.- . {
fin.
a
'F
i \ T.
h.%
i it;
ENG/i. lSl-i
HAT OF .1 '
l6'hcgNTURf
T Em‘vtls incredible that that most
important article of woman's wear-
ing apparel, the hat, dates back
only a little more than 600 yvnrs. Mon
Wore thcm bi-ioro that. lleau Drum-
mvl's Wm'dmhe hm] lnng‘hucn consid-
ircd incomplclo without soveml clnbo-
ratt‘ (‘l‘l‘flllOilS to adorn his well ku-pt
lt- ill-7. But women mmtnntml thmnsclvos
Kim lccrchicfs. long flowing vulls or not-
dim affairs cullml "mnls."
it was not until thr- thirtccnth century
il’int woman hogan to have any imagina-
tion about hrr headdress. Her first
rcnturo into mllllncry resulted in a pic-
iurcuquo horned structure with' a. veil
dropping from the back. It was shaped
like, a crcsccnt moon. tho points extend-
Lmr high above hm- hood.
This poaching on man's pct prescrvcs
-——the fancy hnmlgcnr—brought forth a.
storm of sarcasm and protest. Port:
A“ HORNE-o"
MEDlEVAL TlME Milton :5 THE
FEMININE AHCESTRESS OF
MpoERN BONNET .
‘m’rnous NELL
HEADDRESS OF
HUT“ I] Hum“ STRAWHMORJ
Congregation made I huge bonfire of
their hats after the service.
But as a whole medieval woman re-
acted to criticism much as does her
modem sister. Abuse made her cling
only more tensciously to what was the
fashion. It was only when she tired of
her horns that she converted her head-
dress into a. single peak that towered
several fcet abovo her head. Not at all
satisfied by the change, the men com-
piained that this steeple headdress made
them feel like grasshoppers.
The fifteenth century brought in hon-
nets of silk and velvet dazzling with
jewelry. Then it was that the creative
instinct of the feminine millincr rim riot.
One fashion followed another in dizzy
succession. The old time can! was one offended member n: the opposite
lrnught brick in an elaborate form. A sex. "a“ they attoxnpt n supwriority
historian records that “Qucen Mary owr mankind. Their Ruhr-l towers
worc :1 Chill so massive and pondcrnus
with gold and jewels that she was fziin
l1
PERHAPS THE LEAST
FANTASTiC OF ALL
MEDIEVAL, HATS ' ‘
1
”l .
GWN WEARmG
HAT POPULAR. lN ENGLAND \N
LATE I'7’3 CENTURY
0 -
M
French domination in fashion began
to assert itself in the late .sktecnth
century. Little black hoods were in
vogue throughout Europe. They w re
rather uninteresting. So variety the
fashionable set of France and England
wore huge structures, sometimes made
of pastcboard frames covered with taf—
feta and ribbons, sometimes of tier on
tier '0! feathers extending a foot and
a half above the lmad.
"“‘iiii their exalted heads,” writcs
thrcnten the skies themselves."
The French hoods proved immensely
Straw hats also gm»:
about. this time. Thay
the shape of the simpic
wrote a. ‘tcarful disc rt
"Moulting of the Latins "
wasn't long luv-fore thv ii:
sprcnd out intn hilli" L
bled Christmas trus.
Enlarging on hcr idon.
are obliged to W, placed
general. Their
color of their own pal'lb‘dliil‘ party.
bonnets. provoking the) incvizzible jiblng
of the gentlemen satirists.
shedding of frills and ribbons.
c their debut
first came in
little French
one of whom
art-re shown in London.
' parts of the worldtaccording to the
» m‘other.
lH 0 me _ Building
F mm 1111! to ‘
.Cdstle.‘ '
N different countries, of course, peo—
ple have; different kinds of houses
. 3' to live in. and it is curious to note
,how the ideas of people‘vary as to what
they’con’sider is comfort as re s a
dwelling. ~02 course; climate ‘ and
deal to do with it. says the .chrlatial'l
Science Monitor. . Ianurms. for flin-
stsnce. where they certainly know how
tr.- build.~ for the Burmese temples are
some of the most magnificent'in the
be constructed without a. single nail bp-
lhg used. so lightly are they put to:~
Esther. The framework is of wooden
,posts or bamboo, tightly bound together.
the floors of bamboo. the walls of mat.-
ting and the roofs thatched with palm
leaves. There is never any upstairs to
these houses. because Lthe Burmese dis-
like the idea'of havin any one's feet
above thcir heads. How uncomfortable
they would be in one of our. large hotels
or one of our tall houses. and how
wretched we should 'be in one of their
flimsy little huts. Then. again, base-
ments do so astonlsh Eastern peoples
who come to Europe on a. visit." Indeed,
one rarty of Orientals who once came
to London. seeing people going down
mca steps of basement houses. thought
that they were going to another city.
icing somewhere entirely below London.
To dig into the ground and live in rooms
below the surface level was something
they never for 8. moment heard of any
one doing. and it is said that thatinter-
ested them more than all the sights they
But, just as houses vary in different
amount of comfort people living ’in
them require. so have houses of. Euro-
pean nations varied from one period to
Very rough and poor in qual-
ity at first. but improving, a! in course
of time civilization "advancnd and better
things became possible, until by slow de-
grees they arrived at what they are now.
Things to Do if .
You’re'Overwetght
F you are above average weight
I don't make the mistake of dis-
approving .the looks of every worn-
an you ‘see who isn’t plump. "She‘d
be good looking it she wasn‘t so patin-
i'ully thin," is often the verdict of the
fat woman on the woman who is at-
tractively slender. This may be Your
honest opinion. You may admire fat
women as much as did Rubens of old.
you express this opinion yourself.
Don't make the mistake, it‘ you are
fat, of saying and resaying that 30‘)
don't know why you should be fat as
you eat scarcely anything. and are on
the go all the time. Most fat people
think they eat lightly. but it has been
pretty conclusively
all cases of fat are due to too much
food or too little exercise or s combina-
tion of both. ,
.__-——- _
are young.
tor build for a matronly part.
authority says that if
t“'€‘l"ll
at breakfast,
nushallow dish; ‘add seasoning of salt.
REE begins to cook and
but you'll make you friends smile if,
showu that almost
If you are overweight don't try for
the part of the flapper if your club or
society present theatricals. Even if you
remember that you area bet-
Don‘t cat, between meals. One good,
the woman a.
limit: overweight would cut out all be-
meals and do without bread, save
she would soon notice .
. ERE‘are some good recipes for
dish‘es calling for tomatoes. They
. are reallyunusual and all worth
trying: . _
Chheso Dumplings. . »
Put a' q’u'u-t of. ripe tomatoes into
stepper. and 3' little butter. Cover and
let them get boning hot. . Meanwhile
make a. drop battenwith two cups of
siftogtiour, two teaspoons salt and slim.
cient water to make batter that will drop
from a. spoon; Drop it from a spoon (in
top of,the boiling tomatoes. Cover closely
and steam for twenty minutes. Serve
dumplings as a border aroundthe toma-
toes.
Cooked Tomatou and Cheese.
‘- Select large. ripe tomatoes skin them
and slice them. '50 three add.tw0
ounces of Parmeeon’cheese, grated. Sea-
son with salt. paprika and a tablespoon
of butter. ‘Ccok gently-'untll the cheese
is melted. and then add a. beaten egg:
Remove from the fire as soon as the».
serve at once.
9 mixture ,may be poured over thin
slices of hot buttered toast or over his-
cuits. toasted and buttered.
1“». Tomatoes and llushrooms.
F‘our tablespoons of stock, four eggs,
one and a fourth cups of tomatoes,
thrée tablespoons of butter. paprika to
Tomatoes Provide Delicious. and
Inexpensive Dishes Now'
'ter, drain" the tomatoes free from their
the chafing dish. Cook. stirring.” ,
the bottom of the pan until the mixtuu .
onion. one tablespoon chospedswestr'ed
peppers. round pieces of toast. ;.
' Brown the onion slightly in the but:-
liquor. and add to the onlbn.’ Cook or;
minutes: add the mushrooms_and_jred,
peppers. ~ Beatthe .eszs. aiixhuy._.add...t9' .
them the stock and when mixed m to
theitomat'ocs'.‘ mushrooms and onion}:
is of a creamy consistency.
Season can!
serve on the toast. . 3
Rice With Tomutoel and Chen;
One cup rice, two cups stewed toma-
toes. two-inch cube of cheese, two toa-
spoons cannons-fourth teaspoon pepper.
\Vash the rice,
five cups. of boiling. salted water. Boil
twenty to thirty minutes, stirring m— ,
stonally with a fork; When done evapo-
rate the water by leaving it partly cov-
ered on a low fire. Add the‘ tomatoes
and pepper and .boil. Pour into veg.-
Eable dish and grate the cheese over tho '
op.
Beet Infil‘omato Jelly.
Snfien 1 tablespoon of gelatin in 1A of
a cuntul of cold water. add I cupfui o!
well seasoned stewed and strained to-
matoes and stir until dissolved. Season-
2 cupfuls of chopped cooked beef with
pepper and salt and add 1 tablespoon 0!
lemon juice, 1 tablespoon of chopped
sour pickles and 1 tablespoon of chopped
stuffed olives, then combine with the to-
_try have shown keen interest re—
cently in the'doihing work carried
on in rural communities with the help
of State and county exmnsion workers
sent out by the Department of Agricul—
turc. Demonstrations in sewing prin-
ciples and home dressmakt ing are given
to local representatives 0r leaders from
the various communities in a county at
some central point. Those representa-
tives or leaders in turn hold demonstra-
tions in their several communities for
women interested in the work.
In the State of Washington UK-
metfiod used by. extension workers to
reach as many womeh as possible was
to hold one-day training groups attend-
ed by representatives of several com-
munities to give specific directions wihch
could readily be passed on local lead-
ers. The work in Grays Harbor county
was typical. FOur training schools were
conducted. attended by thirty-five'lead-
ers and fiftymine assistants. Some of
the leaders traveled 841 miles to attend
these schools. Local merchants cooper-
ated by inviting women to inspect their
stock and study finishes. A sewing ma—
chine specialist, who gives a. demonestra-
tion in any community promising an
attendance of ten. ’taught the use and
care 01' sewing mach s and e use of
the various attachments for 5 ing time
and making attractive finishes. .«Each
local leader was asked to try out 'what
she learned in her own home to make
sure of the process before passing it
on to others.
As an indication of the interest in
sewing work reports show that pattern
alteration was taught by local leaders
in 21 communities in 7 counties, garé
ment finishes in 66 canal unifies in 9
counties. making of decorative stitches
in 3'; communities in 10 counties, use of
dress form in 30 communities in 6 coun-
ties. making of foundation patterns in
5 communities and remodeling in]. com-
taste‘. one. tablespoon of sliced mush- mate. stir well and'turn into a. wet mold.
rooms. one tablespoon finely chopped Place near the ice until firm. .
O O I I ‘
Scientific Sewmg for Farm Women
ARM women throughout the cod'n- community. Spokane county. took. a
course in dressmaking. ‘The class met
one day each week for six weeks and
learned how to cut and alter patterns,
fit and finish garments. as well as malt.
decorative stitches. Twenty-four gar-
ments were completed at a cost of $120.1;
Five members of this class have each
volunteered to take one phase of {bar
dressmaking work as a project to pass
on to othcrs. including pattern altera-
tion, seam finishes, making flower trim;
mings and decorative stitches. 3
The county commissioners of Spokans
county asked the home demonstration
agent-to supervise a sewing class held
for thirty-one women who were receiv-‘
ing mothers' pensions. The object'ot
the course was to enable the women to"
add to their income. either by serving
for-other people or by doing their family?
sewing which they had not previously
been able to do. The great lesson learned
in theseciassrs was how to make thd
most of materials on hand in remodelin I
.old garments. Emphasis was also .1
on the need of dressing children neatly.
. . i
Fash ton ’s Footnotes
’ Favored for wool: and trips and vaca-
tion days are the dainty nightgovcng of:
sheer lawn trimmed simply 'with ani
edging of fillet lace. i
u t o ‘
Some of the new walking sticks to
Women are very dainty with their lvor ‘
points and tops, with small leathe
handles attached.
7 s I .
Trimmed in black, at the neck an
sleeves. a new fancy weave whit
sweater is finished at. the bottom wit
“a wool opcnwork design.
0 U 0 .
A stiinn'gig overblouse of white Rus;
sian «trope .3 made with round neckline!
and long sleeves gathered into tight
cuffs. It is oddly embroidered in redx
munity.
reduction in weight.
attain on the
lamenting the
But i:
(la straw hats
rchoi'ns. piled
high with decorations until they resem-
for, displaying
~quite at the
back of tho. head. Leghorn hats are very
trimmings are chiefly,
ribbons. though some ladies add a few
“no“. max-.35 on the new"hornod bf‘f‘lsts." to hr-urc up her head with her hand." popular again in the early seventeen . . u .
Preachers rolled (it them from thrill' From linly came :1 model made of liunrlrmls. whcn imaginative woman branchosof1:115:01:itli-i‘ii‘lfsagiéwg‘iggggg‘
pulpit. Onn "Billy Sunday" torriflcdthe rlnmnsk gold and crimson satin. Not convolvwl the idea of displaying her The most min-fr: in ”go.” blossoms, 1“:
women of his congrégatlon by nimmmfi" rntlsflml to limit themselves to thrll‘.pnliti(‘:il prdorcnco in the color of her ”Sterhfllf'é'qn'ajifih aetherial blut’ came.
lnc that ill!" devil was slttfrm hvmm-n own idvas. the “’Ol’ilen also ape-d tho homo-t. Tim strife hotwcon tho \Vhigs dian "“11 :0,”f“:.:.;sg roan andt'Purma
mi,» horns. He prov“! so olmiuvnt in his (-lnlmrntoly befuathermi armirs that mull am Tori“ at this ”me was aggravated leopard 3cm)“. 5- 3 _» .
dominciuiluns that the womrn of hisch-rc sporting a: the time. lby the women Haunting hoods of the “0191-
. .
- - . . G' O f
Englishwoman Says Widow to Build Ideal C fly "I Leaves f we
Girl Scouts Have
Easy Time
ll‘tl. St"(ll'TS OI? AMERICA load
G a luxurious life compared with
tlnlr English causing. accordan
in Mrs. (Sanadino of England. Mrs.
C‘unndinc'. a commissioner of Girl Guides
‘v: England. is spending the summer at
l‘ilillirlfll Girl Scout camp at Bi'iiLr-
Hit". N. Y.
“Al‘hlyzigh tho girls in this and many
' 1 -_ mm r camps; (‘uL llll‘lr own wood.
. .5! {liir own fircs, cook their own
i do their own washing," Mrs.
VHF. “those recreation Spots
w; when compared with those
w‘inli'y."
{:0
His observation recently at
Tl; New York. Where she
izmrcstcdly of Encllsh
. 4. .
‘llrs. Canndine said.
have wooden floors,
in even have running
they have cots. in
mi a waterproof cloth
we a bag of straw on
4: mp."
. tn: the chief difference
mil American camps. in
.:.n‘ll;ll principles on which
Hit-r slightly. In England.
girls bring their. food
’ . “1.. was at Briarclift they 80
”‘4‘ ;, store and buy it, at COSL
J“ r . 2‘5" a nilt‘forenco in food. '
said the English leader.
'3 cmmtry a, great deal of
E is baked. fried or roasted. In
'1‘ ost everything is boiled. We
Homilies. of course, and you do
tun. naturally. But we boil our
Ml we even boil cur puddinfll- 1‘
a mum simpler way of cooking. for we
:4: the put over the camp fire chimney
L: ,1 :ct the heat do the rest. I think 1'0“
{aw a greater variety of food here. and
f should say it was much richer. ‘5
.431, of course. perfectly digestible;
i: :wholesome." .
‘ . When English Girl Guides set out on s
. no: with a. night in prospect at Hie do,"
mi they carry their provisions sod tent:
m their backs sud at sundown select
Some place at which to osmiu- They then
“WY uretully remove enough nod to
nick. space for a. tent floor. pill 1h. '04
V017 nostly by sud lay down that: w or-
Droofinc. They dig a. halo to:- n
tether-mu! wood in tho neighborhood
, Lm
and cook their main; meal. ..
In tho morning utur bravo-t ti:- fin
hole is can mm with tho arch
. Ml, _
ukIuYrom it the night baton. tt) tenth
unannounced-moaned!”-
glzcod tint no on. could toll any M
unmovod them-visor '
ill-2 birth of a, new city near Cin-
l cinnati will mark the tuliillnivnt
of the dream of an old man who
had tired of accumulating dollars and
sought only to share in the cause of hu-
nmn helpfulness.
Maricmont is to be the name of this
new city, conceived in the mind or
Thomas E. Emery. late Cincinnati multi-
millionnaire. and is to be constructed by
his widow. Mrs. Mary Emory, philan-
throplst. .
Five thmisnnd people will be accom-
modated in the dream city. Churches.
schools. city buildings and a. theatre will
be constructed by Mrs. Emsry‘s agent.
Thomas J. Livingood. Five million dol-
lars will be spent to build a. munici-
pality to be controlled and directed in
the interest of its residents rather than
in the interest of its promoters. Mrs.
Emory has purchased 365 acres in the
Miami Valley. bordered by sloping walls
of foliage and centering in the clear
waters of the Little Miami River. Here
crown ongn will begin the laying out of
the dream city into this summer.
"This is not the idealistic whim of a
mildewcd mentality. nor is it a. real es—
tate scheme," Mrs. Emory said regard-
ing her dream city. “The new city, when
completed. is expected to be an antedote
As Memorial to Husband
{or city living without the inconveni-
ence of the country.
“This is not philanthropy. for “this
form of philanthropy would not be suc-
cessful-4t has been so proved by vari—
ous expo-flmonis. Lots will be sold.
houses paid for by thcir owners and a.
system of taxation placed in forte.
Philanthropy will provide only an ideal
environment through the construction of
pr‘rfcct streets, parks, playgrounds. an
athletic field, schools and a. model the-
ntcr.
"More specifically, Mariemont proposes
by providing requisite capital as it '16-
necded to facilitate the orderly and ade«
quate development of the suburb of Ms-
riemont as a. whole. «lemonstratiuz
therein the value and application of the
city planning principles."
The definite objects of Marlemont are
twofold:
To furnish better housing for wage
earners and allow them at minimum to
rear families away from the smoke and
bustle of the city. ‘
To illustrate intelligent and sane town
planning by following a, preconceived
plan on scientific lines. including proper
road building, harmonious home con-
struction and the relation of the home
to the industrial and publicfdcillties.
Interesting Notes
A demure little Chinese girl gradu-
ated from New York University has
set hsr aims and ambitions high. If she
succeeds. the name of Miss Inez Phnnl
may be known throughout China. as that
of a pioneer business womn and non-
tician. ’
Miss Phase. who won ban: on the
island of Jamaica of Chinese parents.
has plsnned an extensive, business sud
political career for herself in China and
she is more than anxious to return to
her native land to put. in practice the
things she bu learned.
The work which she has choun for
herself is for from the usual things in
Chins, when} girl- sre still expected to
confine their nutrition. to marriage and
u funny. in many, pace: she must still
not the dutiful dwghteroin-Isw. with no
pomnsl’indoxtndenoountfl she herself
beoomel s m chin-law. .
mu Plans. who is one at Wil-
dren. on girls, hub tinnitus cup of
both liorpmnts‘tn be: plans. Althousi:
an all slit ha opportunties oo'do can-
work in bpth Racism! and tho
United Stats- nho his decided that. her
mus: opportunity lio- ln be: unv-
mondshofubshomust tokens:-
mascot-rmmls
Who Achieve Their Ambitions.
of Clever ‘Women
’ ‘ Wyoming Women Win.
Wyoming is pushing ahead rapidly on
its list of women Mayors. ' To Mrs.
nttgl Stoner. whose election as Mayor
of Ookeville was recently noted. add
Mrs: Charles Kirby. Just elected myor
of Moore-oft. with two women memberl
of the City Council. The first Wyommt
woman candidate for Mayor to be de~
rested is-Mn. Florence MoCannof. Mills
noggin winning candidste was her own
bro or—on 3 buttons that called for s
new waterworks system. ‘ '
' o o o
, hulk] Win: In“ Honor.
It It s wonderfdhpar'adox that the
first sword of the.pmident's.'ribbon-
the highest honor a Girl Scout can win—-
was panda to'-a girl who a: 1n the wince}
'chsirof s ennui... -8he-ls-Helcu;'1‘owt¢¥
of Elisabeth. N. J.. who has never done
the things Girl Sconfx’ao; Hangm-
served the qmnizwon for ykr- and
just ‘reo‘axl'tiy brought to imam-thaw)!»
of 3131:! Scout home in“ Elizabeth;
' o r. o .
Plum a city homo
beside a portage trail,
quitoes and the tlecl‘
neighbors.
town 0 lice to the '
at the top of a sixty—foot
post,
day. scv
distant forest wall. , .-
"It's quite a change.
has chosen a log
fire tower in pro
able Minneapolis office.
on the eve of her
Mind. over the
Forest Servic
For this
fully learne
typewriter an
the business w
cogging not at all to
simply up an
to give her a 10“)-
located on high
selves vary from 50 to
and at prese
cut in the forest with
steel towers to
On each tower
in; country
platform.
ions of the compass.
mall-men a. "smoke” is
from the
resents the
“be much? map
a on s
all?“ the tower toward
eaten the azimuth
tower. 0"
. At the 8'33“
amines. 3
from tho
,3; soon.
. ’ hone!
telep tho
shanty
— ' are buying three new
year we replace some of the
pwooden ones. which soontwill. have to be
a on account 0 to ’ .
condemne a map of the surround. {
is carefully laid clinging 7
« tened solidly to the floor to ,
table [as Itls laid out so that direc- '
tions on (the man; correspond to the db
= Eventually.
for Warden Tower
From moss-.35 to trousers.
From dandy slippers to boots with
liolmuiis in. ‘iwm. .
From a :urco “'cstcrn city and its
thrgtlgr ,1 .xxziilis :u the loneliness and
his . L”. c northtrn woods.
to a log shanty
where the mos-'-
iiics are her only
From the clack and €131th eta down-
. dead silence that reigns
tower.
From movies and pariiosio a; lookout
where oycs must strain ten hours a.
ti] days a week. for the first
thread of smoke creeping .up out of the
says Eileen call;
9 -- r—o‘d Minneapolis girl. w 0
roll. ‘3 yea I ‘ and a. lonely
ference‘ to a. comfort-
" ’ve never tried it before." said Eileen
departure from Ely,
trail to the United States
e outpost at Slim Lake.
"But I'm anxious to get triers."
Minneapolis girl,
d thé idiosyncrasies of the
(1 prepared to be a. cog in
orld's big machine, found
her liking, and she
d asked Calvin A. Dahlgren
who dutl
" l towers," says Mr. Dahlgren, "are
T} c points which overlaokma.
. The structures e -
large territory 6'5 Lee: in height,
nt are all of logs and 92:33:22 , -
80-foot
an ax.
sighted. Enee
t award it along an alidsde.
"mat sigh?“ on the map which rep-
location of the tower where
once she gets the»"sight" .
running from the loco:-
iihe smoke tad!-
of the smoke from the
the angle whifimthde line 8:
the smoke makes . us nor .
wt to tine that the, eyes of .
girl $811881“ are sightint‘ .
cap of her .towar. another pair
or eyes mullet tawny will be sightint
toward theta-e from another towor.
u Eileen sights a-smoko she.
to the supervisor in Ely. She
azimuth of {he‘smoke and
it is estimated to be from
there will be
A group of twelve women in Sunset
blue and yellow. 'l
bame Fashion Proves Herself Versatile-
In Her Use ofDrapery for FOrde (looms:i
c‘igl
‘ft it slowly into about "
_ o
..
Norwalk Chronicler