HOW AWAY WAS FOUND'IQ “11—1 AN'S conquest of the earth M probably will be complete next year, when Mount Everest, the highest peak of the Himalayas and the greatest moun— tain in the world. is scaled. .The preliminary expedition seemingly has found a feasible ascent. A base for the final dash is being estab lished well about the 20.000 foot level. When the weather permits in 1922 the final effort Will be made. Late advices from London say that Brigadier-General C. G: Bruce. noted soldier and explorer. hats been invited to command t e climbers. FTER Mount Everest what? The A Alexander of exploration, whoever he may be. in the report of progress this year on the highest point of sinhing for new made earth alrvuiy must be Mount Everest’s Conquest Seems Assured Next Season, Reports From Preliminary Expedition" E170? OF T "i Show—Access. From Northeastern Glacier Appears Practical and Base Is Being Established 23,000 Feet Up for Final Dash of 6,000 Feet More to Summit -- V ‘\ Panoramic view of the region around Mount Everest. highest mountain in the world, traversed by the Royal Geographical Society‘§.expe- dition. Preliminary work has been wholly successful. The accompanying maps are self-explanatory. ‘ 4 Copyright, The Spline, Lama heights to conquer. But where are they to be sought? Perhaps till the moon. per- 3 hens «in Mars. i Ti!» history of at'vmpts to ,‘l’fllt‘ this top : oi tie “nil i< thivl; uitli i‘.xiliires in WM '1 helium live; liu'e hem: risked de- \'M ' an! runny of the“) l:\- a ix-ne been 1..-! 1;.31 uztii ‘.'i’ll Sll"'i‘.-5iV-‘ t'\]itillll0‘!l pr ism m 1..'.~ IHn malv an". nun have Urdu“ neat-r .inj l'."'l!"Y‘ t'r lilhr goal. i-I i‘ v -x; ~- that: r ttlau'wr. u- :i l". i-ilvlz-a f." . 'iltlw trihl an". :i' li~' i‘w lonely um.- wm- :‘imui ti. l-'l ;. r 'H‘ its settei. i‘vrv. ‘ili‘ tlm wlpll". ‘: u" tiw wnrli ap- pmr ' . hr» ll’iiii'flll t' 'H i'u- :1"th vxploring party a‘rmdy limits imam-vi. u ii attain its 'i‘niw't TM. ru"".'i'l .. 1- li'i~ll on the rwults of thw I‘xjri‘lfll -:, _—- .1 out last 5pm“; if \t .4 1 \y'!‘-‘v' r::Pi-‘1:E‘_.’i""-ll t-\pcdf- tinn -'l11|ll‘~lal'l“'l li‘i '2. In. l‘i .mqmcs of the i'n-ij il-ngrzxpim ll 5» .‘j and the Alp-'lv 41H" 't ill-“,ll iirildni .H.i theisiel in- M.- i. mmvn‘ u!‘ lli‘ill Mir 1! and ' bin ii, ill" bios “hon im- lm parties 80:! (mi I’llvli (wrnpriu‘: lh-- ' Mint EierPst . ,... 1., ”w” " M‘ ~ ~»-—- —— .--......:. W . _ ~ -_ .. . ’ , 121N681 nzomar ,: ; B‘Z’sr '~—--> Jam: 19. ' ’ Mtsrssauuacn .. G MALLORVS '1 . EXPL one 77 01v .' ‘ \ was :sgérxbés‘4 _ >3. -“¢‘S:~ 13,-. . - IW/ 4”" N ’ diorama“: I; ,3 I,"- 3 .' . "It?" \ . a a 38 5! Z .: H ; ,. .4 in NDRTHveSTER/V SURROUND/”6'5 EXPLORED. 5,» «v ' '¥'.I¥DI?THEI?N PR5 CI PICES -'«' JNACCESSIBLE 2~~.- expedition, will be marked dates until their fame shall be dimmed by the date—no longer believed' to be uncertain—when an- other party shall overlook the world from Everest's peak. For this party of 1921 accomplished what it set out to do. All the approaches to Everest from northeast to west ‘wero reconnoitred and a possible route to the summit was discovered on the northeast ridge. . _ Surveyors under Major H. T. Morshead 0f the Survey of India mapped under great difficulties an area of more than 13,000 squardiilmiles of a country previously un- known. Major E. 0. Wheeler. second Gov- ernment of India surveyor, who accom- panied the main party to make a special photographic survey 'of the Everest group. succeeded in doing so to a scale of one inch to the mile. Dr. A’. M. Heron of the Indian Geological Survey. in charge of the geological work, investigated the geology'of the whole dis- ' trict, finding many outcrops of limestone. with telltale fossils revealing the secret of the age of the Himalayas. . A. M. Wollaston. botanist and zoologist. made a most complete collection of all the mammals and birds -of the region; also a wonderful flora of seeds of flowers, many of which are new. 7 Dr. Kellas made a valuable chemical and physical series of researches in questions of oxygen and blood pressures at great heights. Harold Raeburn, member of the Alpine Club. was in charge of the Alpine c bets. Col. Howard Bury had charge of o "publicity" of the party, sending full accounts of its p from time to time ' to Darjeeling. am they were tele- graphed all over the .world. A general statemsntmndo by Col. Bury reads: _ “A glorlm country. with some of the I... - .. ~ . _ -,,__,.~~_, — POSSIBLE wmzmm‘am ,, ..-. Scale of Miles 10 ' so .A, 4.1.4. 4...- TO KHA BASE MOVED View POINT PTA ' 29.090 most wonderful valleys in the World, about which nothing before was ever known. now has been thoroughly explored and sys. tematically mapped. Some of the greatest beauties of nature hitherto unknown and hidden from man have been photographed." Barometers Designed Especially For Use in High Altitudes Among other scientific instruments taken along was a mercurial barometer of the George pattern. which only comes into action above 15,000 feet; also duplicate sets of aneroids, working only at 15,000 and 20,- 000 feet. resptctively; maximum and mini- mumthermometers, solar radiation ther- mometers. and boiling point apparatus. These were apart from the instruments of the Survey of India. All the instruments were carefuiy tested at the National Phyll- cal Laboratory. , 0f absorbing interest is the story of the expedition as it appears in a sort of diary form in the manuscripts of Col. Bury. 0n the day it left Gnatong, the last village in Sikkim, it was raining heavily there was no view on the way up the pass. and the hillsides were veiled in mist. The climb of 14,390 feet to the top of the pass was not very steep, but at the summit there were stiil'many patches of last winter's snow. Here a heap of stones marked the Sikkim- Tibet frontier. , . The descent to the Chumbi Valley is very steep, over 5,000 feet from the top of the pass. Here the vegetation was almost Euro- pean in character; rhododendrons grew un- der the shade of dark fir trees, and clematis. spiraea. iris and“ red and white roses grew in masses beside the descending path. And so they came to the rich, fertile Chumbi Valley. where the broad fields were filled 'withpotatoes and ripening barley. Passingthrough many prosperous villages Yatung .Was reached. a really delightful spot. where apples. pears and other small fruits do well, and barley, buckwheat and potatoes are grown in great quantities. Thence a two days' march led to Phari. through a pretty valley all the way. To within a few miles of this place the ex- pedition marched alongsi the rushing torrent Ammochu, throng the loveliest woods of birch, fir and juniper, mixed up with rhododendrons of every color and size. These vanished as they climbed into Phari. 14.300 feet. a dirty village. above which towered the peak of Chomoihari Mountain. Now they entered the real Tibetan coun- Copyright. nu" sag-an rm roam a; a". .‘* ‘ a try. a country of rolling plains and downs. with views often extending over a couple of hundred miles. At Khampa Dzong on June 5 Dr. Kellas died of heart disease. His loss was deeply deplored. Here too ensued trouble with the transportation end. The Government mm. as the expedition came to ascending and descending on the Sikkim marches, began to collapse. After every day's march each party had 00 leave three mules be- hind. which were unable to proceed even without a load. The fourth day's march. from Pedong to Rongli. though only twelve miles. was espe- cially trying. The path dropped steeply down nearly 3.000 feet, only to climb up another 3.000 feet in the next few miles. followed by another steep drop of 2,500 feet. After a day's rest at Rongli it was neces- sary to hire local mules and ponies, leav- ing the Government mules behind. It was a terrible breakdown of transport at the very beginning of the expedition and after only five days' marches. Luckily it was possible to get enough mules for transport as far as Khampa Dzong. The climb from Sedonchsn to Gnatong was the steepest yet encountered, with a rise of more than 5,000 feet in eight miles. On May 24 the party arrived at Gnatong, at an altitude of mo than 13,000 feet. Gnatong is desert as a dirty, muddy village. lying in a hollow. It is the first halting place on the way out from Jelep La. A constant stream of mule and pony cara- vans passes to and from Tibet. From here the party hastened on to Tibet. June 8 is the day they )0“ Khampa Dzong. At Lingga they had their first clear but distant view of Mount Everest. On June 11 they left Tinki Dzong. The day's march led over the Tlnki Pass, 17,000 feet high, but quite easy. with fine views to the east. They then descended into the broad valley of the Yarn, here carpeted with gorse and yellow flowers. They had to ford this river, which is at that point about eighty yards wide and three feet deep. After crossing a marshy plain they arrived at the home of Phari Jongpen. who entertained the chiefs at his house. a fine. solid, stone building. with walls covered by gorse mud juniper. Their-meal was of dumplings. with. soup and chili sauce. \ Lake Kalatzo. '0 together with tea. milk and beer. Each guest was expected to eat fifteen dumplings as his share. . Found All Maps of Land Near Mt. Everest Misleading Col. Bury writes at this juncture: “All maps of these parts now are most misleading. as they are totally inaccurate.” Leaving Rongong, the party followed the south bank of the Yaru some ten miles, to where the stream is joined by the Arum and turns to flow south. cutting its way through the Himalayas. A severe march across a sandy valley followed, dangerous with quicksands. Unable to do this cross- ing in one day the party camped alongside the quicksands in the dunes. which were being whirled about by a sharp gale. "Just before dark," wrote Col. Bury, "a most beautiful and lofty peak appeared in the southwest. The drivers called it Cho- mouri. the Goddess of Turquoise Peak. We had many discomfon as to what mountain it was. In the morning we took its bearing carefully and decided this must be Mount Everest we had come so far to find, and which was now only about fifty mile away and stood‘ up quite by itself. _ "It was Everest. It was separated, from all other peaks, towering into the clear blue sky to an immense height and far summing its neighbors in lottiness and grandeur." The first halt on the direct route to Lhasa was at Tuna. where there was a comfortable bungalow. The next stage was to Docben. 0n the way the party passed a number of gas (Tibetan gazelle). grazing on the plain. They were very wild. never allowing the travellers to approach nearer than 400 yards. Morning in Tibet is described as calm and beautiful. but at midday a strong wind arises and blows with great violence all the afternoon. That this wind is local was shown by the fact that the upper clouds were unaffected. After passing Dochen the party left the Gyantse road and crossed over the Dug pass, 16,400 feet, to Khe. which lies in the breadest part of the valley, once the bed of In this valley are ruins of what once must have been an important city. Some of the buildings remaining are of considerable size. Its present name, is Kbetam. and it flourished in the days be- fore Tashl Lumpo was built. The next march was to Kheru and from there to Tetanus, about sixteen miles. across two passes of about 16.450 feet and 17,100 feet. The gradients were easy all 0 way. The winds around Tatsang blew keenly. During the night the thermometer inside‘the tents fell to 25 degrees F.. which meant at least 15 degrees of frost out- side. !‘In all these parts." writes Gob Bury. "the people know Everest by the name of Chomo-lungma, the goddess mother of the country. This is apparently the Tibetan name for the mountain." At a height of 18,000 feet camp’was es- tablished for the combined purposes of training the coolies in snow and ice work and in ascertaining whether there were ways of getting round the terrible preci- pices, which descend on almost sheer 10.- 000 feet straight down to‘ Rongbuk glacier. To the northwest and west extended great. ridges. mid again to the north. ”The question was: Would it be possible to . ‘8“ on these ridges, which are «the steep- ed. and descend in great cliffs to the glacier! Even happening the ridge sour - despatchedhy Got. my 3:012 than 9mg 1 7,4. .-...- HE WORLD mite at 25,000 f‘eet were gained tit ‘ 706‘ remained some of the most diffi " cimblng at still greater hEights beta I the summit could be attained. Hard climbing is practically impossible at N‘- heights, demanding too much of the ”and frame. In this highly rarefied air lbs up tra exertion demanded was impossible. Ideal Weather Until july 7, 'Wben Rainy Season Set In Til] Jilly 7 the weather was most favor- able for reconnaissance. Themorninga was.“ clear till about 10 o’clock. and at M the peaks stood out wonderfully clur out distinct. The last rays of the setting mi lingered for many minutes on the W cliff}?3 off the highest mountain in the we: a. ter the lower turn“ cold and gray. peaks had all After July 7 the rainy season the expedition, rain and hail exam“ with snow at the upper camps. Visibility was consequently poor and the work was halted. Toward the end of July the has; camp was moved round to near Kharta. which is a collection of villages in the Arun Valley, near to the place where the Kharta Tsangpo. a very large glacier stream, joins the Arun river. By the end of August all the various ap- proaches to Mount Everest from the T‘ibe. tan plateau had been investigated. Ting". was the first base for exploration to til; northwest. After making sure that there were no giatiers descending from the Ev- erest group toward the Kaprak Valley the Alpine climbers tried the next valleyto mi! east. This is the Rnnghuk Valley, and proved to be a direct and easy approach with a good path to the Rongbuk and Choeling monasteries. The Rongbuk stream springs from great glaciers descending straight from Everest with one broad arm sweeping down from; the west from the great group of mountains 26,000 fee: high, and another long arm from the cast coming down from the col, joining Everest, with high snow mountains to the north. To the west and northwest Mount Em est sends out two huge spurs descending to this glacier. and no means of attacking thg mountain were to be found on that side. Direct approach from the north was equafi impossible. as the mountain descended In an almost vertical cliff for 10.000 feet. Heavy Falls of Snow Hamper Further Exploration The approach up the eastern branch of the Rongbuk glacier to the col Everest ap- peared practicable. but very long, but bQ fore it was possible to make any mum attempt to penetrate this valley tho weather broke and heavy falls of snow down as low as 16.000 feet made further work impossible. After waiting for a few days. hoping that the weather would improve. the Alpine climbers came down and joined the Masai Choebuk, as it was being moved on its way round to Kharta, which is situated to th“ east. of Everest on the next big slack stream. ' From here it was possible to trim the eastern and northeastern faces of m est. The only approach to Everest known to the local inhabitants was that from a. neighboring valley of Kamachu, or. I: II is called higher up, Shinchu. They knew of no approach directly up the “Val- ley, and, indeed, they themselves never went up there. as the shepherds who gran. yaks on its alps in the summer do not. ht long to them, but are nomads, living near Shekar Dzong during the Winter. Kamachu is a most beautiful valley. and afforded a magnificent and easy approach to the mountain, passing right under this enormous precipices of Mahala, the north- ern peak. After a short Visit, however. to this valley. and a careful examination of the eastern face and the great soothes? era ridge of Everest. the climbers found no possible means of getting up the formidao ble cliffs which surrounded the Kamgshm glacier, or the ice cliffs overhanging them. The northern ridge sweeping down to the north col is unapproachable from this val- ley, but they saw that there must be on, other, intermediate, valley between the north ridge and the northeast spur. no they crossed the intervening ridge back again into the Kharta Valley, and then followed the Kharta Valley to its source. Here Major Morshead joined the party. and following up the glacier at the head of the valley they found gentle snow slopes covered with spotless fresh snow pair‘s? knee deep. Thereupon they proceeded with great difficulty over the snow cor-oral glacier until they reached a col nest”! 23,000 feet up looking on to the north rim of Everest about a mile further on “rm another glacier. Having seen that it was possible to rear”- the northern ridge of Everest from thii vaJloy they started to lay plans for the future attagk from this direction. With soft snow and/warm weather if to unit}! impossible to‘ take laden coollos by 131‘ route. so the only thing to do was til prepare everything at the base. celled stores. firewood and rations for eooliesr get these carried up as high as Whips and then wait till the monsoon condition! abate and the snow, becoming frozen M enables a further advance. With this end in view an advanced 288‘ camp was established about eighteen mil“ up the Khart‘a Valley at an approflm height of 17,500 feet, and a second amp was formed on the rocks further up th- glacier just under the 20,000 feet mark. 9’ which thirteen loads of stores and N63" were carried. From this point arrangements were ‘3 once made to establish a camp We between the 23,000 feet and 24.000 1"“ levels on the slopes of Everest “88“- ‘The route. the only one at all M had been found. Everest, after centurias. was in danger of losing its secret! Yes, a, way up Md ' been found. 0‘ October '10 the scientific world. and. 9" deed. the entire intelligent world. "laced on receipt of a tam m a" tion announcing mm 3‘ the last an” “anyhadomocl- Thewmm .
Norwalk Chronicler